Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions

Southern Yosemite Categories => Balls Area => Topic started by: Climberdude on August 15, 2016, 07:44:02 am

Title: New Route On Boulder Garden Slab
Post by: Climberdude on August 15, 2016, 07:44:02 am
On August 14, 2016 I put up a new climb "No Stairway To Heaven, Denied" (5.6-5.7) on Boulder Garden Slab.  This route was done rope solo and ground-up.  The route is located between "First Lead" and the newer 5.6-5.7 bolted climb that starts on a block with a tree.  "No Stairway To Heaven, Denied" is two pitches (40 m and 55 m) with four bolts plus one or two 0.4 - 2.0 cam placements on the first pitch and three bolts on the second pitch.  The middle bolt at the belay is bad because the carbide tip on the drill broke.
Title: Re: New Route On Boulder Garden Slab
Post by: John on August 15, 2016, 08:07:39 am
Nice Mark. Is there a natural belay for the second pitch or an anchor? Ratings for each pitch? Tx

Title: Re: New Route On Boulder Garden Slab
Post by: Climberdude on August 15, 2016, 08:16:19 am
I will send you a topo for the private section.  The first pitch is 5.6-5.7.  The second pitch is 5.4.  The second pitch ends at two existing bolts with chains that are for another climb.
Title: Re: New Route On Boulder Garden Slab
Post by: mungeclimber on August 15, 2016, 11:47:52 am
I've had a string of the Bosch carbide tips break on me this season.

Nice on the new line. I don't recall the names on BGS, is this on the right side or left side of the main formation that is close to the cars and bouldering?
Title: Re: New Route On Boulder Garden Slab
Post by: Climberdude on August 15, 2016, 01:20:22 pm
It is on the left side of Boulder Garden Slab.
Title: Re: New Route On Boulder Garden Slab
Post by: Gerard(Jerry)Jessurun on August 16, 2016, 07:43:13 am
Nice job Mark!
Title: Re: New Route On Boulder Garden Slab
Post by: DaveyTree on August 16, 2016, 11:44:02 pm
Well done.
Title: Re: New Route On Boulder Garden Slab
Post by: susan on August 17, 2016, 11:38:08 pm
Cool will check it out sometime! TFPU!