Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => Balls Area => Topic started by: John on July 08, 2016, 06:39:17 am
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We recently went up to BOR to figure out Lars's climb, Dirt Doctors from his old photo scans from the FA and were very entertained. This route was a fantastic moderate at 5.7 and we highly recommend it. Now the approach, that is another thing...but still worth it.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/BOR_DD_Incomplete_Overlay_Topo_resized.jpg)
What we learned was that about 4 lines plus a variation start pass through the same area, each with a wide range of moderate climbing choices of high quality. Basically Dirt Doctors and Lone Pine Crack start on the same buttress left of the main arch of the East end and splinter off into four variations; Dirt Doctors Left (the original line), Dirt Doctors Direct (what we ended up unintentionally doing), Lone Pine Extended Finish that Dan M. and Bob S. did a while back, and finally the Lone Pine Crack Original Line.
The shared buttress start involves climbing a very attractive left-facing flake ending at an obvious tree perched above the arch. A beautiful pitch with perfect gear options at regular intervals. To the right of that is Close Shave, a mixed 5.9 pitch along the arete, also ending at the tree. That looked really cool but didn't get a chance to climb it.
All climbs funnel into a very wide "dish" with boulders strewn all around (beware of knocking anything off). From here we decided which path Dirt Doctors must have exited through the headwall, which is a wide corridor splitting the wall. We pretty much beelined straight up following a nice crack and blocky corners to the base of the headwall. After I got home, I realized from the old photos of the FA that Lars and Rainer took a path farther to the left. With our two choices this path was a little less logical to us but clearly would be nice climbing and would land you in the same spot as we did. At the base of the headwall is a sweet little ledge where one could escape out right if the chose to. The exit pitch was a highlight, I will leave it as "unexpected".
I could tell where Bob and Dan exited and it looked really wild. Once you stare at that headwall long enough you can see many ways to get through an otherwise incredibly steep wall.
We had a great time and look forward to more exploring of this wall.
The start of the climb(s)-
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/DSCN4587_resized.jpg)
The pitch above the "bowl"-
The notch directly above is the fun exit pitch.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/DSCN4616_resized.jpg)
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Sweet
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BOR is one of my faves. I once took some kids who had never climbed outside before up the central face. When I led the exit up the little headwall I was not visible to the others. The second up was a strong gym climbing kid and she praised my "incredibly difficult" lead. Anybody who has ever climbed with me knows that I don't even follow "incredibly difficult." I later figured out that she had face climbed next to the nice little finger crack that I climbed. They don't learn finger cracks in the gym.
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I wonder if that might have been Sam, Dan. Many gym climbers at Planet Granite get strong for cracks these days. PG gyms are excellent prep for outside because of their wide variety of cracks including OW. Wish we had a PG local to us, or if only Touchstone would install comparable cracks. Anyway, I think you should take the compliment as it rings genuine.
BOR was worth the hike for the views and the feeling of getting up so high - I enjoyed the slightly thinner air up there.
Lars, DD is classic - especially that first pitch! Enjoyed thinking of you guys out there. We did not have the topo with us but hoped we were doing your DD line even if by the 3rd pitch we went a bit more straight up.
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That first pitch is a dandy indeed! Now I can't recall if Lars climbed that pitch before Hartmann. Need to revisit the dates - but I'm sure John will know off the top of his head. I want to go back and do Bruce and Leo's Close Shave - which looks exciting.
I don't recall the approach being that bad - did you guys skirt the right side/slab of JLT Dome and then up and traverse to the base? That didn't involve much bushwhacking. Easier hike than Grey Eagle, IMO.
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Lars-91 Thomas-93 I believe
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Susan,
No, it wasn't Sam. I've seen Sam climb a hard, steep crack. For such a slight build, she is strong and determined.
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I thought maybe it was long ago. She is not a kid... And Sam is definitely a talented climber.
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Nate, almost missed your question w/so many posts. jk. I was trying to post up a couple days ago just as we were losing reception.... Anyway, we took the shady forest diagonally left of the formation to eventually land at the far west end. I could feel that we were a lot higher in elevation than Gray Eagle. Let's see if I can get some photos posted. Our descent was much more direct along the lines of your ascent.
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(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/DSCN4511_resized.jpg)
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Two approaches.
1) Go up past school rock on the right. Get though some manzanita and brush to the east end of BOR.
2) Go up the Jackass trail until you come to my cairn. Follow the watercourse up from there and end up left of LPC.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BOR_App_1.jpg)
Where to head up the gully, I think this is the best way:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BOR_App_2.jpg)
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That does look reasonable, Dan.
Looks like Susu & John ended up in the open white dirt patch far left. Seem right, Susan?
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I got to get up on that thing. Thanks for sharing. Looks yummy!
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Here is some additional notes added to your map with our experience, Dan.
Yellow- is the general path of the Jackass Lakes Trail.
Red-is the direct line off of the JLT up to the decent yet currently overgrown and steep narrow wash. The right red line is on my list of approaches to try.
Orange-is a game trail we took from the first wash we saw off of the JLT. The wash was faint and strewn with logs but easy to follow. We got pushed out of the wash to the right but crossed over it a little higher up and followed a faint game trail all the way across the hillside to the left. It worked out pretty good....until it didn't. We saw the first wash and passed on it to hold out for something better. The sandy and wide wash looked promising until you get to the top which is a literal 8' tall wall of weaponized Manzanita and scrub oak. Not awesome but glad we tried it anyway.
Green is the path we took down and I would take it going up next time. It landed us right back at the log-strewn wash and we were ecstatic to hit the JLT so quickly. There is a kind of ugly, dirty wide wash of sorts between the top of the first wash and the JLT Crag (School Rock as you mentioned before) and this wash has just enough exposed rock across it to form a reasonable path to the back of the JLT Crag. From there pretty much look for cairns and you will eventually be on a pleasant open hillside. This approach will likely be frustrating the first recon but the most direct I think.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/danM_BOR_approach-_map_with_notes_resized.jpg)
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One more thing, where did you hear the name School Rock, Dan? I think you are the only person who I have heard call it so but would like to hear about your first sources. I have only heard Jackass Lakes Trailhead Crag or JLT which doesn't really roll off the tongue. There are so many layers of names for the Balls formations over the years I can't keep up!
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I also heard JLT as Thunder Dome but don't know where
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I also heard JLT as Thunder Dome but don't know where
That would be a great name if there weren't so many Thunder Domes already.
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I also heard JLT as Thunder Dome but don't know where
Yes, that is what Mark Spencer called it. Now if I could just recall if Royal and the Rockcraft guides gave it a name, as they guided there a bit. I don't believe they recorded any of their climbs on it, however.
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Don't forget you can access BOR from the north by simply continuing up the trail.
I thought I saw it referred to as School Rock someplace but now I don't know. There is a School Rock at Donner of course. I guess I call it that because of all the guided groups I see there and Jackass Lakes Trailhead Dome is a crappy name. It seems kinda puny to be called Thunder Dome. Anyway, I think JLT Dome is the most common reference these days.
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thanks ya'll for all the lines on pics. still need to get up there. maybe this weekend if I can get on the road fri eve.
Sooooo, what would be the consensus on the approach? John's green line. If so, I'd be willing and happy to spend a little time with clippers/loppers if that would help.
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thanks ya'll for all the lines on pics. still need to get up there. maybe this weekend if I can get on the road fri eve.
Sooooo, what would be the consensus on the approach? John's green line. If so, I'd be willing and happy to spend a little time with clippers/loppers if that would help.
Thats a generous offer Splitclimber butI would not cut a trail at all, I am probably part of a very short list of people that like the Wilderness to the left totally wild. Do the approach a couple of times and make a few cairns at key points. That green path is very reasonable as is.
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Hi Splitclimber. Thanks too for the kind offer. The way we descended may need some more figuring yet for fine-tuning getting through the woods and shrubs. I wonder if Nate's Red line approach is the most mellow overall - maybe the least steep and least bushy? We went the way we did w/the green line bc it was closest to where we parked which overall does seem closest but maybe steeper.
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Agreed John and nothing a pair of jeans won't conquer. :P
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Agreed John and nothing a pair of jeans won't conquer. :P
Ha! I hear yah! I didn't want to sound preachy about trail trimming, actually I thought the approach was really in true Wilderness since you pass one of those Wilderness signs and I believe we should not look bad to "official types", you know. I looked it up and it turns out the approach is not in Wilderness but about half of the formation is. I just didn't want someone to cut out a trail based on my suggestion since there are often better paths found as a rough trail gets used more often. Just saying test drive it a few times first.
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Well, we went on a test drive this weekend. some stop and go traffic on the approach :) but we did get to our destination.
Lone Pine Crack was awesome and well worth the effort to get there. We did most of the extension finish, but not the final buldge mostly because we weren't sure where to go, it looked intimidating and it was an obviously walk off to the right.
Had 3 great days at the Balls. Really great to meet you John and Susan.
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we weren't sure where to go
Go up, of course. I have always said that up is the best way to go.
Kidding aside, this brings up the topo dilemma. Bob and I did the direct finish and drew a topo and I even have photos - but should such things be published? Why or why not? Half the people on this forum probably have the topo so what does it matter? I think maybe do not publish because it is so much fun to adventure into the unknown and I want people to adventure. But, I also want people to enjoy and have fun so maybe topos should be shared.
Do nothing is the default option.
Perhaps it doesn't matter at all either way.
"An adventure is interesting enough in retrospect, especially to the person that didn't have it; at the time it happens it usually constitutes an exceedingly disagreeable experience." Vilhjalmur Stefansson
I would be disappointed to deprive anybody of any opportunity for adventure.
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yeah, going up would have been the icing on the cake. Is it the steep, almost overhanging juggy start from the ledge?
We were also on a time crunch - we walked off the back, stashed gear and hiked to Madera Peak, which is an awesome class 2 hike.
the pic topo is plenty info for these climbs on BOR. I'd agree with you about plastering topos and info online.
But I'll admit, I was starting to drool when John whipped out all these printout when we met because I like guidebooks and to know what is out there, but I'm happy exploring, figuring it out myself and only asking for stuff if I feel I really need it.
For my local crags, the saying is "let it trickle out". :)
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The final steep pitch we did was maybe 30-50'(?) left of the tree hidden behind a big block and you kinda should aim towards the big final notch on the previous pitch to belay below it. Kinda lousy gear on the steepest part but not that scary since it isn't that tall, like 15'. I wanted to have a picnic on that little grassy nook next to the tree, we really loved the setting.
We couldn't figure out exactly where Dan and Bob went up on their variation final pitch but there are several points you could head up but they looked really intimidating if I guessed right. Super knobby all around there.
It's funny how few people just wing it and try to figure climbs out as they go. We run into quite a few folks that tell us they wouldn't attempt a climb without pretty thorough information in hand. I appreciate the adventure you get with vague information like from the Spencer Guide. Most of those climbs in there are merely a suggestion as to where they go and you get that first ascent feeling.
Heck, look at the Roper Guide, now there is some minuscule info to go by and some of those routes are Grade 6 endeavors! Typical description: "Go up East side, hike off. Bring pitons."
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Trickle sprinkle drip, sounds right
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Then again I may have steered away from a climb due to a guide description and shouldn't of... I know a very avid climber who does not like to consult guides until after they climb something not only for more of a sense of adventure but seem to me that similarly they don't want any discouraging news...
But if possible I can scour a Supertopo and still have questions preflight hah. Or want to read up on more than one guide...
Anyway makes sense to exit where you did Splitclimber especially moving on to your next objective! It was worth doing another pitch and all, but we had considered exiting right as well after a snack on that luxuriously shady ledge...
So curious about Madera Peak and would love to hear more about how that went! And or see photos... If inclined.
Good meeting you two and a little awry that we didn't just kickback and have a beer with you guys, but we did get something done quickly that needed the cherry on top so to speak. Thought maybe there would be another chance to meet up that weekend. Next time hopefully!
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Stumbled upon a nice bit of info on Madera Peak. Sounds like a great hike!
http://collegian.csufresno.edu/2015/03/24/take-a-hike-jackass-lakes-and-madera-peak/
(http://collegian.csufresno.edu/a/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/10866124-620x330.jpg) Photo courtesy of Joshua Helm A hiker overlooks one of the Jackass Lakes located in Yosemite National Park. Take a Hike: Jackass Lakes and Madera Peak Posted by: Yvette Mancilla (http://collegian.csufresno.edu/author/ymancilla/) in Arts & Entertainment (http://collegian.csufresno.edu/section/arts-entertainment/), Events (http://collegian.csufresno.edu/section/arts-entertainment/events-arts-entertainment/), Top Arts & Entertainment Story (http://collegian.csufresno.edu/section/top-ae-story/) Mar 24, 2015
Jordan Nicholson
Special to The Collegian
The Sierra Nevada Mountains are the ultimate playground for mountaineers, climbers and hikers. The jagged mountain peaks, rushing rivers and rocky terrain call for vast exploration and at times, technical skill. It’s also the perfect setting to learn how to be the ultimate adventurer. Spring break is almost here and I say go big next week and take a hike. I hope you’re excited.
An overnight hike can be the perfect way to relax and unwind. I recommend unearthing your camping gear, grabbing a fun group of friends and heading up to Jackass Lakes, located at the end of a long ridge of the Sierra Nevada that forms the Yosemite National Park’s boundary. This area overall is fairly remote and resides in the Ansel Adams Wilderness and is my favorite place to camp.
There are three different lakes you’ll encounter along the hike: Lower Jackass, Middle Jackass and Upper Jackass Lake, all resting below the looming Madera Peak at 10,509 ft.
The hike from the trailhead to Upper Jackass Lake is roughly five miles, gradually rising in elevation along the way, but there is plenty of shade coverage throughout the area. The sun exposure occurs once you are past Upper Jackass Lake and going towards the peak.
There are times when you’re hiking when the trail may seem hidden. Make sure that you are keeping an eye out for trail markers, which are stacked or piled rock formations placed along the trail, also called cairns. Otherwise, the trail is very accessible and I’d estimate the hike in would take about three to four hours.
The great thing about this hike is that once you reach Upper Jackass Lake at about 9,000 ft., camping spots are everywhere so feel free to unpack and set up camp for the day or the night. If you decide to camp out, I recommend rising early in the morning and making your way up the trail to Madera Peak.
The hike to the peak from Upper Jackass Lake is roughly three miles round trip and is about an hour and a half each way. The terrain is rocky and exposed a lot of the way but as you climb in elevation you begin to see a 360-degree view of distant mountains and valleys – a major plus. I’d recommend taking lunch to the top and enjoying the views for a while.
If you’re planning to camp out, I recommend bringing a couple extra layers of clothing, since the high altitude atmosphere is accustomed to sharp temperature changes, especially during the night. Be sure to bring plenty of water, food and sunscreen if you’re going to hike to the summit. I like to take my portable stove on these excursions, which you can pick up at any outdoor store. The parking is also open and free.
Cell reception is pretty nonexistent up there so don’t expect to upload any Instagram worthy photos at any point. Although, I did get a phone call at the summit one time, for which I could never explain. Regardless, this is an amazing hike and a great place to spend part of your well-earned spring break.
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Long walk up there. July 25, 2010:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/7-25-2010.jpg)
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That snow looks great on a summer day. Did you bivy out there?
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And Hi Dan! You been out to Shuteye yet this year?
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Susan,
No, I haven't been to SoYo. I've been thinking about it and will go before long. Right now I'm busy trying to make some money - being unable to work for 2 1/2 months kinda slowed the cash flow down. I have gone from not being able to dress myself to riding my bike so progress is good on getting my strength up but it looks like it will be awhile yet before I could do something like hike up Madera Peak.
I plan to go as often as I can when things dry out up there. I bought a portable propane pizza oven and I am planning to make pizzas this year. I've been practicing my pizza making and all reviews are good.
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Just so glad you are on the mend and looking forward to getting out there! Top that off with the pizza making..., imagining you at camp in a chef hat tossing dough discs into the air brings smiles.
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Dan, I have to add how grateful we are that you made it through this ordeal so successfully - can't express that enough!
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Thank you Susan.
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Anyone know how the smoke is at the Balls right now with the fire near Wawona?
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its a bit hazy but the smoke is not an issue, i was thinking of going to the balls tomorrow, looks like t-showers this weekend.
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Thanks for the update....
Hmmm... t-storms this weekend to help the firefight and/or possibly create new fires. :l
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Went to BOR on Saturday. Took the JLT trail and turned up about 50 yards past Banqo 's carnon the left side of trail. Found the wash and and marched/scrambled up without any bush wackin. Decided on LPC. Awesome first pitch. We did the original and came back down to climb another route. Paul started up and the weather broke. Quickly turned into down poor mixed with hail. Packed up and headed to the wash to escape. Paul was about to creep down into the wash when all of BOR turned whitewater. It was the coolest thing. You could watch the white water coming down all at once. We got stuck between washes and had to surf Manzanita down. Great trip.
So does DD take the same P1 and then hold left the rest of the way?
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Nice! Any trip to BOR without bushwhacking is a great day, I love that place.
DD trends a little left after the second pitch shared with LPC, or in other words, on P3.
DD P2 belay is in a giant bowl with boulders scattered here and there. The right margin of this bowl would be where you would belay for LPC.
If you do DD, don't miss the cave pitch on P5.
That first crack pitch of DD/LPC is pretty darned perfect, eh?
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Yes. P1 is the money.
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Here here... great climb!
Been at Nightwatch in a sudden storm and was really glad to get the heck clear of it as the runnels flooded with as you said of BOR, white water. Should find and post some footage caught from Beasore looking back on it from the safety of the truck.