Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => Mt. Starr King => Topic started by: mungeclimber on September 12, 2015, 09:31:36 pm
-
Pat B. was in the area. I just saw some pics of his. Holey moley, ton of rock up thar.
-
I have a route started on a dome. Steep friction.
-
what you need to finish it?
-
Somebody who can drill on steep friction with steeper, blanker rock ahead. I have some photos i can post when I get home.
-
I know a guy. But getting him out of ShutEye will be a difficult proposition.
-
7 mile hike to camp near base. ~0.4 mile to water from camp. Lots of bears around. Camp is on top of a huge flat topped boulder. 4 or 5 people could probably camp there. Not much flat ground near rock - might be better to camp near the water.
Pitch 1, gear, 2 bolt anchor. Drilling P1 anchors:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/9_1.jpg)
Pitch 2 incomplete, two bolts, no gear so far.
First bolt, pitch 2:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/9_2.jpg)
Second bolt, pitch 2:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/9_3.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/9_4.jpg)
-
wow! looks high quality!
-
That does look really fun.
-
That does look really fun.
Btw, this is the guy I know. ;)
-
My 10% rule works like this; of all the people, only 10% ever go to the mountains. Of all the people who go to the mountains, only 10% ever get out of sight of their car. Of all the people who get out of sight of their car, only 10% ever leave the trail. And so on.
Climbers are the same; gym, roadside crag, day hike, over night, etc.
The chance of anybody going there to climb is negligible. That's why this partial route is all there is on the whole crag.
I'm ready to go back but there doesn't really seem to be much of anybody else willing to go.
Besides, I've gotten fat and lazy myself.
All that said, plan a trip and I'll go, and carry a load, and patiently belay.
-
Spring has good water resources, but bad bugs? Or is it a wash? i.e. Spring doesn't get you closer to the climbs with water nearby? If so Autumn is the time.
Is late October too risky? Can we shuttle a car to make coming in easier and leaving easy too?
-
Spring is always buggy - everywhere. Right now, I wouldn't be surprised if the creek was dry. Here is the water supply in July 2012:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/9_5.jpg)
I'm not sure what you have in mind about a car shuttle. The 7 mile approach is from Mono Meadows and all on good trail. Cross country approach is about 6 miles but through the forests so probably not an advantage. I can't think of any other way to approach it that makes sense.
When I was there, my friend wanted to do the best line on the wall and I thought it would be a better idea to do something easier as a first route. We ended up on his option. If we want to extend this route, I'd want to let him know. He's taken a real job and moved to Pasadena.
There is plenty of room.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/9_6.jpg)
-
huh, I thought there was a campsite nearer the ridge for Starr, then you could traverse/hike to somewhere near Liberty and down out to the Valley. Maybe that's just extra work.
-
Did you call this Dome 9, Dan? Where'd it get the name? Thomas Addison and friends climbed many routes on the domes in that region, as you may know. Not sure if they explored that one. Eric Gabel is actually seeking info right now for climbs in this region for the monumental Yosemite guidebook effort. Maybe you've been in touch, and if not, you should.
-
I called it that but only because I am not aware of anybody calling it anything different. I've referred to it as such since 2011 when I posted a map on the SuperTopo Mt. Starr King thread - a thread you also posted on. I numbered the formations in an effort to sort them out and the name stayed since no other came up.
I walked the base and could find no evidence of climbers but that doesn't mean there hasn't been any. I don't have contact info for Addison.
I have not communicated with Eric Gabel about this although he did contact me recently about Starr King. Maybe I'll send him an email.
-
Cool, forgot about that ST thread. Steep looking stuff. Way to get after it! Pasadena isn't another country is it? Just a days drive away, no? Partner doesn't want to go back?
-
Nice pics! No water is tough. Many mosquitos sprintime tougher. So that stream in the photo, that would most likely be dried up by now. Is that stream the one .4 miles from camp?
-
Is that stream the one .4 miles from camp?
That's it.
-
Dried up in a dry year, yeah.
HELL NINO now! :)
Humping water sux. Maybe move camp closer to water in an Autumn trip?
-
I would think there's still water in Illilouette Creek which would be about 2 miles from the base. Doable if you camp at the creek. Any water coming over Illilouette Falls?
-
I would think there's still water in Illilouette Creek which would be about 2 miles from the base. Doable if you camp at the creek. Any water coming over Illilouette Falls?
Two miles! Might as well camp in Joshua Tree. ;)
-
Suck it up lad, you'd better learn to suffer if want to get as old as me.
-
I'd like to respond to that post, but I'm too busy writing down all my
excuses er, um, ailments. lol
I suppose if we all hump in a dromedary bag or three, we could carry the water back over to 'camp'. Sure feels like desert camping tho. ;)
-
Okay this is a piece of cake. I'm busy this weekend but next weekend I am available. So, Friday night we drive to the trailhead (all are welcome to ride with me), hike in and set up camp on Illilouette Creek. Saturday we hike an hour or hour and a half to the crag carrying water for a day and climb. Repeat on Sunday We come out late on Sunday then drive home. Anybody?
-
Arrrrgh, yer killin me. Aside from not being able to climb from bum shoulder and having to do house stuff, I'd be in.
-
How long does the hike out there and back take mere mortals?
-
are we talking camping sites for starr king or the other nearby domes?
if starr king, we had a nice camp in October two years ago 2 mintues off the trail that traverses under dome biaz and starr king, in a slabby clearing southwest of the forest below starr king, 5 mintues from the creek that flows west down to Illouette.
37*41'37.97"N / 119*31'58.41"W
I may be back there on the first week of October if we don't do Obelisk. Problem with October is you can't overnight park on Glacier Point Road so you have to hike in from happy isles.
I can't remember how long it took us to hike from happy isles to camp, but it wasn't as bad as we thought, maybe 3.5 hours up and 3 hours down with overnight packs.
-
Nice line and dome Daniel. Just found it on Google. That's quite a bit farther out and looks like coming in from the valley would be really far.
-
I'm starting to see why there hasn't been a lot of talk about this place elsewhere. Logistics keeps it just out of reach.
-
If we can't park on GP Road, this dome probably isn't a good option.
-
we've got plans and projects already, but I'm interested. Like Munge mentioned, tough to get a certain someone out of soyo. sure appreciate your open invite and spirit about it all, Dan. And offer of patient belay. About Nine hand drilled pitches. Oye.