Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => West of the San Joaquin River Canyon => Topic started by: larsj on March 21, 2013, 07:58:14 pm
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(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd180/larsjohnson50/SoYo/Ddome_1.jpg)
I spent a lot of time fumbling around back here, without much to show for it.
lars
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Stunning piece of rock and amazing location!
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(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/4387116c-4568-408b-8cbe-f059dd1cd634.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/4387116c-4568-408b-8cbe-f059dd1cd634.jpg.html)
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(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/DisappearingDome.jpg)
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Susan- is that Peregrine Song ya'll were climbing or something else?
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That is P1 of Memphis Blues, Nate. 5.9+
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Did you climb the whole route? IF so, you probably did the 2nd ascent. How were the old bolts??
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We only had time for three pitches so we need to get back. Three is pretty wild and probably a good sample of the rest of the climbing.
P3 bolts and upper anchor are new (not by us), but the rest of the route seems original as far as I can see. I saw what looked like two SMC hangers on P4 from P3 where we rapped.
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It will be tough for me. That first and third pitch were outstanding though. Especially p3.
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That first and third pitch were outstanding though. Especially p3.
This means nothing without more photos. :)
I don't have the topo in front of me, but is p3 on the dike heading right, or is that not until p4?
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We left the camera at the base so all of the photos are of Sue or me on P1. We knew we didn't have time to finish and the camera may have been destroyed in the OW like the skin on Sues shoulder.
P3 is kind of short, like 50-60' and is the first of two right-trending pitches following dikes. It has a committing mantle to reach the first bolt, then positive climbing through a section of knobs and flakes to get to the next and last bolt before another airy traverse to the final mantle.
P4 is a traverse along really distinct white dikes.
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Sorry you'll just have to take our word for it for now. Wish we had photos though they probably wouldn't do justice to the memory of how pretty the rock looks up beyond p2.
I want to get back to try again but don't know that I'll be ready to commit to the rest... yet, which you have to do I guess beyond p3. We'll see.
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Here's a few more from years back:
(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd180/larsjohnson50/SoYo/Ddome_a.jpg) (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/larsjohnson50/media/SoYo/Ddome_a.jpg.html)
(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd180/larsjohnson50/SoYo/Ddome_2.jpg) (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/larsjohnson50/media/SoYo/Ddome_2.jpg.html)
(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd180/larsjohnson50/SoYo/Ddome_1.jpg) (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/larsjohnson50/media/SoYo/Ddome_1.jpg.html)
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bam!
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Nice shots of those inviting dike systems, Lars!
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On Dan Merrick's photo above one can vaguely see another route that John Stoddard and I did. It was right of Memphis Blues. Starting from the Sword of Damocles and passing 3(?) bolts one comes to the main feature/open book on the face. We followed the main line of weakness to the top. We did it bottom up in one day. Maybe 5 pitches or so. I used a bosch to drill at least one of the bolts. Someone else later reported a route that sounded like it followed most of the upper pitches of what we did. There was a flake on the route maybe 20' long side to side, by 2' thick by 2-4' high. John thought it was ready to cut loose and had me lean into the rock as much as I could while he climbed past it, so I wouldn't die. We named the climb "Knockin on Heaven's Door" because of the flake and to have a second Bob Dylan reference. I followed his pitch and thought the flake was solid. There was no way to avoid climbing over it. I don't know that we ever drew a topo and I did not submit it to the American Alpine Journal or otherwise report it except maybe in an email to either Jerry Anderson or Nate D?
Stephen McCabe
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Thanks for posting up Stephen! No, I had no idea you did another route to the top out there. It makes perfect sense, as that is the obvious weakness up the dome. Although never formally reported, there were some guides in the region in the 90s who reported climbing that center open book, no bolts placed, and didn't know if it had been climbed before. The called it Peregrine Song, 5.10. It sounds like you connected with the book higher up then they likely did, crossing the face to access it. Did you traverse into it on a dike system? Rating? Date of ascent?
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Another for the record. Will have to take a closer look in that area. Scarey rock good to note. I love the Dylan references btw.
Do you recall, how was Sword of Damocles to climb? Some bits looked fragile to me from the ground. We couldn't spot an anchor there and how to get down.
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Nate,
For a while after 1980 my notes get pretty sparse. Knockin on Heaven's Door 5.10 must have been 1981-1986. I don't think we made a topo I think we went off the top or near the top of Sword of Damocles and followed a dike up and right past three bolts and joined the dihedral fairly low down.
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The Sword of Damocles L and right were John and Mary Ellen's routes. Maybe they rapped from slings on the top flakes? John and I may have climbed most or all of the left side and then headed up (left or right?) and then followed a dike or feature up and right placing 3 bolts. Maybe we removed old slings as we were heading to the top of the dome and didn't need to rap? I do think that parts of the Sword may be fragile. Sorry my memory of some of this is pretty fuzzy, where for other routes, I remember very well.
Stephen McCabe
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Hi Steve- You didn't send me a topo of "Knockin' on Heavens Door" but after climbing on Disappearing so often I think I know where it goes. Are you aware of anymore routes on the dome? So many possibilities but no records and no one wants to tromp on something that was done in bold style years ago. Some of that on Grey Eagle on no need to take it elsewhere.
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/SMc%20climbing/knockinonheavensstoddard_zpsd988ae37.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/SMc%20climbing/knockinonheavensstoddard_zpsd988ae37.jpg.html)
Hi Jerry, I thought I had lost the topos. I found both copies. I hope this helps. This may be the first time we have shared them with anyone? Above is John Stoddard's partial topo.
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/SMc%20climbing/knockinonheavensmccabe_zps8bff6160.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/SMc%20climbing/knockinonheavensmccabe_zps8bff6160.jpg.html)
And there is my topo. We usually only did one topo and I'm surprised how much the two versions differ. Memphis Blues was many years earlier, but I can remember it far better. I climbed Knockin on Heaven's Door around the time I was sleep deprived from having a 2 year old at home who slept erratically. That may explain my poor memory. I led part or all of the second pitch. The dike at the lip of the roof was a cool feature. John led the fourth pitch. And maybe the 6th because I can't recall placing the bolts. We did the route in one day. All bolts were placed on stance, on lead. At least some and maybe most were placed with a bosch drill. If they were 1/4", they were hand drilled. It may be that there was at least one difficult stance on the 2nd pitch and I decided to hand drill instead. Near dusk as we were finishing retrieving our gear, bats came out of one of the flakes near where we climbed the first pitch. I can't imagine anyone starting that late, but boy would they be surprised! Has anyone repeated it?
Stephen McCabe
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So cool that you found these. Thanks for sharing them.
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/SMc%20climbing/knockinonheavensmccabe_zps8b113fde.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/SMc%20climbing/knockinonheavensmccabe_zps8b113fde.jpg.html)
My topo again. I may have messed with the photobucket link in the previous post. Still learning.
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liking the topos!
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Me too... liking the topos.
Looks like a quality route except for the big block but you mention it was solid, actually... i know, 30 years ago... Definitely sounds heads-up.
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Thanks again for taking the time to share these topos and pics, Stephen!
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(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/firstpitchmemphisblues_zpse32840b2.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/firstpitchmemphisblues_zpse32840b2.jpg.html)
This is the start of the first pitch on the first ascent of Memphis Blues.
(http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Dudleya1/firstpitchmemphisblues2_zpsdbe25d49.jpg) (http://s1276.photobucket.com/user/Dudleya1/media/firstpitchmemphisblues2_zpsdbe25d49.jpg.html)
A little higher on the pitch. Gerri belaying.
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Sweet shots Stephen. Thanks for the share. Keep em coming.
The "Dead Tree" is still there in the first one! It has since fell down due to it deadness.
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Very cool to see those photos Stephen. Curious who took em. Were the 3 of you in the photo all on the FA? Looks just the same to me minus the tree. Would also like to see more!
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On the first day it was John Stoddard, Gerri Dayharsh, Suzanne, Mary Ellen Lawrence, and I. John took the photos. I'm surprised I didn't wear a shirt in the off-width, but I do tend to like off-width. The finger locks over the little roof were maybe the best part of the pitch.
Only John, Mary Ellen, and I went above Mobile Ledge. It is complicated, but Mary Ellen avoided the crux pitch. I have more photos to come.
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I enjoyed the offwidth, but sure as hell wouldn't do it without a shirt! Sue can confirm its texture is not friendly on the skin.
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It is hot there in the sun even when temperatures are alright, and even when ducking into the bit of shade in the OW, so I can understand not wanting to wear much. But the skin on my shoulder is still working out that scar btw - I don't bother looking at it anymore but notice people often grimace when they point it out. I did have John take a photo of it fresh after that first time, but haven't the heart to post it or start a thread on nasty abrasions, yet. Anyway, that is a very cool first pitch especially exiting via that finger crack for sure.
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I'm glad you did the route. I'm very sorry to hear about how bad the abrasion was. One could do an easy alternate version of the first pitch if one mainly wanted to do the face pitches, but they would lose out on some good climbing.
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Y'know, I hadn't even thought of it til now. That would be sacrilege. :D It was awfully nice to dig into that pitch even with it digging back. I miss cracks.
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I assumed that someone had done "Knockin on Heavens Door" since its such an obvious cool looking line, good job! This one is actually something I could do. I was able to really get pumped to do the FA on "Do It Don't Spew It" but doubt if I could even follow pitch 5 now let alone pitch one, the crux. When I get better with Photobucket I'll post the topo, its really a good route with a diversity of climbing.
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Thanks. I'd like to see your topo for "do it", not that I could do the route at this point.