Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: daniel banquo merrick on February 19, 2015, 07:41:34 am
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A good first lead route is of course easy. It should also be a trad route with plenty of good gear placements.
The first time I put my son on lead was on Golden Toad in June 2007. The Spencer topos of the toad are not clear to me but we went up the ridge between the northwest face and the south face. I'd say it is 5-easy which is easier than 5-fun. This might be Spencer's Southwest Ridge 5.6. This route loves cams.
Can you think of any other first lead routes? I know lots of young gym climbers and need to get them out there on the sharp end.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/June_7_2007.jpg)
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The cracks at the base of Chiquito. I know a couple folks where that was their first trad lead thx to SYMG.
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Yes, some of the Apron routes at Chiquito and the far left slab offer good early lead routes, as do some places at the Balls. But most these climbs are bolted.
I need to reference guides I don't have right now to name climb names. Plus, I need to not be working to really answer.
I can't help but mention that I actually did think while climbing this line last weekend that we may have found the answer to this question on the steep crack far right at Jackass (photo repost below). I'd have called it Southern Yosemite's version of the Valley's Jam Crack... UNTIL the section above the crack that gets chossy for a move or two before getting back to the goods. There's a moment of slippery grit to commit to where the only crack seems to flare. For the most part, though, the rest of it is some mandatory jamming between otherwise abundant face climbing features. Could be 5.7 or 8.
I'd climb it again to be sure before recommending it for early leads. John did have to lob off a loose block. Could have some strays. Needs long slings for the beginning and for traversing at the end. Don't miss tying off the perfect knob moving left to the anchor. Most folks would probably rather replace/update the anchor, me included before recommending for early leads. It is restrung with new sling - two pitons and two nuts.
The climb just left of it that lands at the same anchor is probably 5.9+. Not recommending it for early leads, but it would be fun to TR after doing the one mentioned above. It's got some iffy rock - but is otherwise really cool. Would be curious to hear others opinion of the quality. There's a large pillar that is questionable to pro for fear it levers some day..., but there's a thin crack nearby that is great for gear.
Also, Melting Wall at Lost Eagle which is steep.
For all of this, it would be good to review slinging knobs, camming btw knobs, camming and nutting plates, and reviewing the use of best judgment to check out the quality of the rock before bothering to pro... knocking/tapping, sensing how solid or questionable, checking for cracks surrounding potential placements....
Hawk Tower I think it's called up at Dreamscape has a line, or maybe two that are 6-7 or 8 ish if I recall. We lowered in on rappel from above, and found some incredibly featured rock. There's some bolting, but the rock seemed impeccably clean and sufficiently hard to hold gear reliably. There's an old Vernon line up there at Dreamscape above Hawk that pros beautifully like this, though it may be by other bolted fare...
There's much more, mostly I'm thinking of one or two climbs in many areas...., but I need the guides to name route names, and gotta get back to work for now.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1120731wnotes_resized.jpg)
P.s. I like the photo of you and Ford, Dan.
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Fresno Dome has some nothing but giant holds up South Pillar. Knobs everywhere. I wouldn't recommend sending a first lead on it without trailing first. But after a couple laps it would seem a easy no brainer. 5.7
Out od the area but Tollhouse Traverse has to be mentioned. 5.5 and bomber cam placements with a few nuts thrown in. Easy climbing with multiple pitches.
Below Voodoo there is a short couple routes on a feature triangular wall. The left is all trad with an anchor and the right has one or two bolts on it to the same anchor. The left I believe is 5.7. Easy to put a newbiw on for laps before their first lead.
The area one the left side of Grey. Can't recall the name but has some easy stuff up it that would be good for a first lead.
When teaching leaders I usually pick a route and have them do a few laps on it until they feel good about it. I then pull the rope but leave the rope through the first bolt or piece of pro. It keeps my sanity so there is no decking.
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South Pillar is an easy and I think one of the best moderate climbs I know. What a varied and surprisingly easy route. I try to climb it at least once a year and it is easy enough to take most any kind of noob up. However, I would be very hesitant to send a first leader up it just because of route finding. Down climbing to and protecting the notch seems like Like it might be a bit much for a first lead. As you say, on the second or third lap I think it might be fine for a first lead.
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Escher's pitch 1. Duh. Funny I didn't think of it til now. I'd recommend you climb it first to see if you think it would be a good candidate. First pitch is 5.8. It was our friend Meg' s first lead. She did well and liked it.
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The cracks at the base of Chiquito. I know a couple folks where that was their first trad lead thx to SYMG.
Agreed these are good ones. Either side of the flake or up the middle, which may be a wee bit less secure for bountiful straightforward pro, if memory serves.
Snake Crack on Squaw comes to mind, although maybe the slab traverse to the first anchor could spook some folks.
If steepness isn't intimidating to gym rats (or less so than slab), and they are well trained on slinging knobs and funky nut and cam placements, I'm partial to Seek and Ye Shall Find on the Melting Wall.
What about the small corner climb you and Bob did on B of Revelation, Dan? I haven't climbed it yet, so dunno about the pro.
Nate
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Yes, Book of Revelation is great beginner territory. I think the whole main face is 5.7 or easier. The head wall steps it up to 5.8 or possibly 5.9. I sent my son and his girlfriend up Lone Pine Crack A couple years ago and they didn't die. The three routes we did on the right face are perhaps a bit challenging for a beginning climber. The left two take gear but might be a little tricky to protect while the right one is bolted and perhaps a bit far between bolts.
Do any of the Chiquito routes suggested have names?
Book of Revelation topo. It looks like the purple route isn't named or if it has been, I don't recall what it is.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Book_of_Revelation.jpeg)
Easy Streaks, me at the second bolt.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Easy_Streaks.jpg)
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Easy Streaks looks super fun!
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hi all, thanks for the topo, couple 4th of july's ago amy and i want to the balls and we climbed a couple fun routes a super short hike off the road, would that be book of revelation? we could never figure out which dome it was, heres a pix of amy on the dome we were on, i would like to check out this b of revelation, looks fu, thanks mike a.
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That looks like the Jackass Lake Trailhead crag.
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Do any of the Chiquito routes suggested have names?
Not really.
They are the starts for Tootsie and Archline but are really interchangeable since all three lines end at the same anchor. It is hard to tell from these shots but there is a big tombstone-shaped flake with a crack up the center and layback cracks of each side. Good stuff.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1000047_resized.jpg)
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1000046_resized.jpg)
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Mike, Looks like the middle of School Dome AKA Jackass Lakes Trailhead Rock like John says.
Somebody check this overview and see if the names are right.
http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BallsPano.jpg (http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BallsPano.jpg)
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hi all, thanks a ton for the lay out of the balls area way more helpful then the spencer book, the book does not show jackass dome,and yes that's the one jackass trail dome amy is on, b of revelation looks fun have to chech it out, i will have lots of time to check out more stuff in southern yosemite area since i am moving to oakhurst in a couple months :) i am super psyched to be a local up there i have been planning this for years, thanks again for the info, happy climbing mike a.
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Congrats on the move! That is going to be nice being close to the crags!
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That's great about your move, Mike, although you've always been a local in my book!
Dan,
Your pano looks cool. Jackass Lake Trailhead dome (JLT) was called Thunder Dome by Spencer at one time (though didn't make it into the guide), and who knows what the Rockcraft guides called it back in the day when they used to take groups there, likely doing first ascents of the faces. I'll have to find a cool pic Royal shared of Dick Erb leading the upper tier. (Maybe I posted it somewhere before on this forum.) The small bulge to the right of JLT is Bowler Crag.
I always assumed the ridge just behind (and slightly left of) Boulder Garden slab was No Name Ridge, so have wondered about the higher crag between it and Tempest. Have not checked it out yet. The topos to No Name seem to better align with the long wall of which I speak just behind the slab of Boulder Garden. I think Jerry and I once stood in Jackass Meadow and he pointed out the routes (like Lava Lamp, etc.) on No Name ridge. John likely has more specifics.
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Nate,
I redid the pano adding Thunder Dome and moving the No Name Ridge label.
I don't think I've seen 10, 11, 12 & 13 before and don't know who did them.
The thread is drifting but there are certainly lots of easy routes.
In 2010 I walked all the way around BofR and took dozens of photos. I can send some if anybody wants to see some feature.
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Lots of good easy routes at the Balls. Looking forward to visiting if I can break from my projects areas.
Nice Mike A. Can't beat being close.
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Looks like a lot of good stuff at Bk of Rev. Great shots! Makes me miss our old red rope.
Good on yah Mike, making that dream come true.
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BTW, good finds on the mystery routes on Jackass, John and Sue. More for the growing list.
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Nate's BOR post with the overlay was so nicely done I split it off into it's own thread. I would hate for that to get buried in a non-related subject.
Thanks Nate and those who have been updating that overlay!
Found at:http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/index.php?topic=275.0 (http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/index.php?topic=275.0)
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BTW, good finds on the mystery routes on Jackass, John and Sue. More for the growing list.
Check them out Nate, I know you would appreciate them.
BTW I have a pretty good sized list of obvious routes on Jackass and a nearly equal number of route names and ratings but have had trouble matching the two lists. I could use some help if anyone out there knows much about Jackass. It is difficult to ID routes from topos due to the chaotic nature of that formation. Millions of ledges....oy!
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I gues the difference between today and my day is that today first leads are done by gym climbers who can easily make 5.10 moves. My first lead was my second climbing trip.