Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: daniel banquo merrick on October 22, 2014, 06:00:04 pm
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I don't think I have a hammer thread going here so I'm starting one. Bob and I are planning to go to Miller Rock this weekend and try some hammer variations.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/TestHammers2014.jpg)
Left to right:
1) 14" Dammerr 1 Four flat faces on the pick (Mucci has the original Dammerr but will be sending it back to me)
2) 13" Dammerr 2 stubbie. Glass handle is heavier than wood so I made a smaller head so the gross weight came out right. Small head should be nice if you don't need a pick as it won't get tangled up in your rack so much. Four curved faces on the pick.
3) 13.5" Dammerr 2 with three curved faces on the pick.
4) 13" Dammerr 2 The same as #3 but the handle is shorter and I removed the bump on the handle. I have put a rubber cricket bat grip on this one which is really grippy but makes the handle feel a bit fat.
5) 12" Dammerr 2
The two drill holders are my final solution. Made on the lathe from 7/8" high strength bolts with two 1/4" set screws. I don't like having to carry an Allen wrench but the reduction in parts and complexity seems worth it. The set screws have nylon patches that should keep them from working loose like the Pike holder. I also figured out how to wrap the bolt in two-sided sticky tape and then get the foam tube over it. I'm hoping the foam grip will stay put. The aluminum tube was used to get the grip over the sticky tape.
I have 6 more heads, 5 more glass handles and 5 more wood handles if anybody wants a custom hammer. Tell me what you want and we can work out a deal. Maybe hook up this weekend and try one out.
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Holy hammers, you've been busy! Favorite so far?
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That right there is a lot of dedication, all those Dammerrs. What are the benefits of the wood handle vs the fiberglass? I like the idea of the lightest and shortest Dammerr. As mentioned before I really liked that hammer you loaned Josh. What to you is the best improvement on that one? Where is Miller Rock?
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Fiber glass will probably last longer than wood. It doesn't shrink or swell so the head should never come loose. They are a little heavier than wood.
The Dammerr Josh has (13.75" 24.1 Oz.) is pretty much the same as #1 in the photo. The wood handles I have now are just a little skinnier which I like and fit tighter in the head.
I have two smaller heads on hand; a Dammerr 1 like #1 in the picture but the face end is shorter (14.7 Oz.), and a stubbie just like #2 in the photo (15 Oz.). If I put one of these heads on a 12" handle it should come out to be about 22 Oz. The hammers in the photo are all around 24 Oz. For comparison, my BD hammer weighs 25.2 Oz.
I'll make a Susan hammer, when's your birthday? Which head do you prefer?
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I'll make a Susan hammer, when's your birthday? Which head do you prefer?
A "Sudammer"?
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Why thank you! Really?! Birthday is just past and not again til next summer.
I'll need to find out the sort of beer you like best. And camp meal?
Whatever you think, Dan. I really like the Dammerr 1 with light weight wood handle, what's overall lightest that still concentrates enough force where needed. Coated head is cool. One entry and exit drilled hole through the bottom sides. How would it be to have a grip that doesn't cover the whole handle but just where it should be held most? Better to cover more of the handle? Beer bottles can be opened with a biner anyway... so no need for that. :) So cool!
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Well, if you want a custom hammer you need to tell me what you want. Particularly length and type of head. The hammer you tried was 24.1 Oz and 13.75".
You can have the leftmost hammer in the photo above which has the same head as you tried but it has a chunkier handle and is 25.7 Oz 14". I can to swap the handle out which would be lighter, better and allow you to choose the length. This is the only head of this type and weight I have on hand.
You can also have either of the two smaller heads in the picture below. Getting a smaller head may not matter because if a hammer is too heavy, it can be lightened by cutting a slice off the striking surface. the 1.25" square weighs 7.0 ounces per inch and the steel is soft enough to cut in a horizontal band saw with a bimetal blade.
I suggest a Dammerr 2 like the three hammer heads on the right in the photo above or the left head below. A BD hammer is less than 12" long but I would suggest a longer one perhaps 13 or 13.5 inches. A cord anchored on a screw like the BD or the hammer in the photo with the rubber grip. I can put a rubber grip on it if you like but would make the grip shorter than the one in the photo. If you don't like the rubber grip, it can simply be cut off. Or I can put tape on the handle, I use hockey stick tape which is much better than the tape most people use. I'm anchoring the heads with rolled spring pins now instead of the nail/rivet.
Miller Rock is near Cassidy. John should know what I am talking about.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/3and13.jpg)
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Ok. The leftmost hammer head in the photo with the 5 hammers would be great, simply because I know I liked it. But since this is the only head of this type and weight you currently have, maybe you would rather keep it. If so, the next choice would be the one on the left you recommend in the photo that you just posted. Length of wood handle 13" since you recommend not going too short. I would prefer the black hockey tape grip. Also would have thought it best to have a cord through holes at the bottom of the handle and wonder why a screw anchor would be better.
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wonder why a screw anchor would be better.
I think it looks more orderly, the cord is more out of the way of your hand and is less likely to get snagged on anything. The screw anchor may be stronger than the cord through the hole because I can put the screw farther from the end of the handle. Anyway, whichever you like the most. I'll pop the head off that handle and put it on a better 13" one.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Cords.jpg)
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Here it is with a new handle. This is a DAMMERR type 1, serial #4, 13" 23.7 Oz.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/SG4.jpg)
When I took the other handle off I saw that this head had changed handles before and one of the rivet holes was buggered up so I couldn't drill it out to fit the spring pin - so I put it back together with a rivet. The head is starting to look pretty banged up even though it hasn't drilled a single hole yet. As soon as Susan verifies which cord attachment she wants, I will attach the cord and wrap the handle in black hockey tape.
Once you guys try it out, John will have to let me know what he wants. I'm sure he has birthdays too and I want to be fair.
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This looks great! The screw attachment sounds best then.Thank you!
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All done.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/SG4b.jpg)
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Wow thanks so much! Can't wait! Will email shortly.
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Love it! Email sent.
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Awesome!
I know I don't have to say this to this crowd....but Dan you are the man!
Best beat sticks around!
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Enjoyed using the new hammer last weekend Dan! I got its first hits. Thanks again! Checked out Josh's hammer with the new head design and like it alot too - way to shave off some weight!
Was nice meeting with you guys a while. Hope you enjoyed where you went. How was the Arrogant Bastard? Good I hope.
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Glad you like the pounder, we need some Dammerring pictures.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/972.jpg)
Edit:
Photo also includes one of my drill holders with the foam grip successfully anchored in place with 2-sided sticky tape and a bolt bag of my own design and manufacture.
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Being curious to see what the world thinks a DAMMERR is worth, I put one on ebay. If it doesn't' sell for more than I have invested int it, I will have to give up making hammers. I certainly have enough to last me the rest of my days.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191410508021?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/191410508021?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649)
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After this one sells, you should throw one up for Buy It now.
Blood in the water...
It is worth what the D5 was worth to me, and I paid over a $100 for that one.
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I originally listed it as buy it now $120 and minimum bid $20. I think $120 is a fair value considering that they are not mass produced. Who else will provide the length and weight you request?
Yeti, I am hanging onto that D5 - it's a beauty. I think I got the better end of that deal and owe you. I can make you a deal on another hammer, drill holder or some of my monster rap rings.
There is a terrifying video on youtube of me making rap rings with a router.
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I am rooting for $500 Dan. You should say you started with a block of steel and filed it down by hand to perfection. Say it took 300 hours of careful loving craftsmanship. $500 each would be cheap for a micro run of hand made hammers. Good luck!
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Hey Dan,
Yeti, I am hanging onto that D5
I have my chounard and D5 that you sent back, I believe we traded a Forrest and CMI for the Dammer you sent?
That is a fair trade imho.
How is the auction going?
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Views Watchers Bids Price
95 13 2 $20.50
5h 08m to go
With 13 watchers, I think the bid will go up a bit at the end.
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Sick!@
good Luck!
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Got a whopping $39.00 for the hammer plus postage and using Ebay I'm losing a buck on postage. There are also Ebay insertion fees, Ebay final price fee which will be ~$5. Sometimes paypay charges a fee.
So perhaps I will net 39 - 1 -5 = 33
Steel $6 (small order with postage about $1/inch for 4140)
Handle $12 with postage
Tape, cord, screw, pin and wedge say $2
Now 33 - 6 - 12 - 2 = 13
My $13 has to cover
Owning a kiln, bandsaw, belt sander, lathe and drill press
bandsaw blade and drill wear
electricity for the kiln
about 2 hours of my time
I won't be selling any more on ebay.
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Well, I'd of paid more. We're enjoying our hammers very much.
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Did you market on any other sites to let the audience know about the history behind it?
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Did you market on any other sites to let the audience know about the history behind it?
No, I was mostly interested in what it would sell for without influence - which I think I found out. I expected $60 which is what miscellaneous hammers seem to sell for but of course hoped for more. I've found out what I wanted to know.
I'll still make a few hammers but they will be for friends, acquaintances and trade. I still have a few heads made, a few handles and enough steel to make 8 more heads.
I wonder how many hammers BD sells in a year. I suspect not very many.
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Also, the guy who won hasn't sent payment yet so perhaps I will end up keeping it. Some guy from Arkansas - perhaps he doesn't use paypal.
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Dan.....I can also attest to the Dammer. Love It! I had to good fortune to climb a few weeks ago with John and Sue and Munge.
And actually use the hammer not once but twice while stance drilling a route we all climbed and drilled. I also got to try the new baby Bosch.
Everything was so light.....even my new helmet. Light is Right!
Soooo......I would like to order a Merrick Original.
Birthday is in December.....wink....wink.
Just kidding .....how much for the model I had borrowed that day.
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Hey Dan,
Hope you are well. I am still loving the the drills you made for me. Would it be possible to get a titanium head Dammer?
Aaron
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Aaron - I've never worked with titanium but everything is possible. Let me know what it is worth to you and I'll consider it.
Jerry - Not sure which hammer you used. It was probably either the original (#1) which I had loaned to Mucci or perhaps it was one of the hammers John and Sue have. They are all different. In fact, I think all the hammers are unique in some way. In the photo you can see all the hammers I have on hand. If one appeals to you, let me know what it is worth to you. I have got from $39 to $175 for my hammers.
#1 through #5 had the original pyramidal pick, the rest have radius cut picks which I think look better. Perhaps I shuld go back to making the original.
#1 is the original DAMMERR and may be the one you used. I'm keeping this one. 13.75" 24.1oz
#12 is a stubbie head on a fiberglass handle, 13" 23.3oz
#8 is a DAMMERR 2, 13.5" 23.8oz
#11 is a DAMMERR 2, 13" 23.5oz
#15 is a DAMMERR 2 I made for Bob but haven't got to him yet, 12.75" 24.8oz
#3 is a DAMMERR 1 but the head is cut down and weighs about 2.5oz less than #1
#13 is a stubbie and weighs about 2.2 oz less than #1
#9 is a DAMMERR 2
#16 through #23 are whatever I decide they will be.
I also have #7 which is in the photo of Bob drilling on the previous page.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/18.jpg)
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Dan, I like #12, #8 and #11.
Kinda like the fiberglass model more.....may need to take it out for a spin.
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Hi Jerry not sure if you tried mine shown in the photo several posts up thread, or John's which looks like it but with the new lighter weight radial head and drilled hole keeper cord.
Wonder what Serial # John's is.
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Susan has #4
John has #10
If my notes are right.
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You used my hammer Jerry. Curved pick, drilled handle for cord.
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Thanks for the info guys!
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I think John's #10 is the same as the #9 head in the photo. I have some wood and some fiberglass handles so it would be easy to put a hammer together using #9.
Or perhaps John's #10 is more like the #11 head.
I have trouble with my quenching oil getting too hot so there was one batch that I quenched in oil for a short while and then in water. They came out rusty so I steel brushed them. #9 and #8 in the photo have this steel brushed/burnished look to them. The other hammers all came out with a dull black look. Other than appearance, I don't think there is any difference.
They all look a bit shiny in the photo because I wiped them down with boiled linseed oil to keep them from rusting. Unlike petroleum oil, linseed oil drys or hardens. Boiled linseed has some metals (like lead) in it that act as a catalyst making it cure faster. It doesn't actually dry, it polymerizes by reacting with oxygen. It's good for putting on tools that tend to rust like shovels.
I am out of the world series giants color 4mm cord.
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Yes Dan, we have #10 and #4. Mine is like the #9 head in the photo. Sues looks closer to #1.
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The best two DAMMERRs to date are #9 and #13.
I put the remaining finished heads onto handles. I put the two stubbies (#3 and #13) onto fiberglass handles since the lighter head mates well with the heavier handle. #9 got a nice wood handle.
#3: 23.4 oz., 13"
#9: 24.3 oz., 13.5"
#13: 24.2 oz., 13"
I never liked the shoulder just below the head on the wood handles. It's there because the handle is intended for a big rawhide mallet and that is how far the mallet head comes down the handle. For hammer #9, I filled the space between the head and the shoulder with 4mm cord which I think looks better and also protects the handle. I like the cord wrap so much, I added it to all the fiberglass handles since fiberglass damages easily.
I think #9 and #13 came out pretty nice:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/9%20and%2013%20a.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/9%20and%2013%20b.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/9%20and%2013%20c.jpg)
#3 came out pretty good but the head isn't quite square with the handle. You'd probably never notice this while using it but it annoys me. Fiberglass handles are better than wood in some ways but they cost more and are more of a mess to install.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Number%203.jpg)
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I like the cord wrap on the handle. Looks good.
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DAMMERR #19 at work last weekend.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/DAMMERR_19.jpg)
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Sweet.
Where is this?
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"I was able to make it out to the western Colorado desert this past weekend and and get on a new tower."
That's all I know.
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I think I have the hammer head design is where I want it but the handle isn't perfected. Since I don't have a mill, or a place to put one, I use a round hole in the head. I use a 7/8" drill and it ends up a bit oversize as drilled holes tend to. The only handles I can find that are fat enough at the head end are mallet handles. I turn them down to just over .88" for a tight fit. The grip portion of mallet handles are all nearly round - probably because they are not self aligning and can be inserted in the head off axis. I prefer an oval grip since it gives a feel for how the head is aligned.
I suppose I could get custom handles made but haven't looked into it because I have assumed the cost for a couple dozen would be too high. Making them seems like it would be too much trouble since a nice handle is a very complex shape. I have thought about the router duplicator things they use to copy rifle stocks but it still seems like it would take too much time and I don't want to buy or make one.
I could buy a mill and make oval holes in th heads. I would probably have to shape the insert part of the handle still to get the perfect fit I want. Of course a CNC mill could make the holes in the heads right for off the shelf handles but I'm not investing in a CNC mill.
So here is a mock up of a simple handle. Functionally I think it is all that can be asked for. Aesthetically it isn't much. 1-1/8 mop handle planed down on two sides. I would buy good hickory of course.
Anybody have any better ideas?
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Mop_Handle.JPG)
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No ideas here, other than, to say cool stuff.
I have had the opportunity to carry my hammer out and about, but have not permitted others to swing it, yet. I felt I should put in the first piece with it.
Is that wrong?
#climbercode
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I could buy a mill and make oval holes in the heads.
Have an oval broach made or find one online somewhere? Not cheap to have them made but all you need is a press and I think you have one for breaking and testing stuff, right?
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Could make a rectangular broach. I've seen it done.
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Square and rectangular holes could promote cracking when hardening though.
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Just posted on ST and am cross posting here in case somebody doesn't check ST.
Being discouraged with the handles I can buy, I have resorted to making my own. I bought a slab of kiln dried hickory.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/001.jpg)
I've never worked with hickory before, it is very heavy and very hard. I ripped and surfaced it into 1" pieces then rough cut the handles. I then milled them to the finished shape. The heads are slightly different in that I raised the pin a little bit to get abetter bite in the wedge. I think the pin going through the wedge is a better way to secure the head on the handle than the tangs used on most hammers. I get a better fit between the head and handle plus there is no way the head will fall off.
The handle is made from a rectangular piece. I wish you could hold it in your hand because I think it has a very good feel to it.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/30-a.JPG)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/30-b.JPG)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/30-c.JPG)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/30-d.JPG)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/30-e.JPG)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/30-f.JPG)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/30-g.JPG)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/30-h.JPG)
I will send #30 off this week to Aaron who I hope will use it and let us know what he thinks of it.
Edit: This, as I explained to my tolerant wife, is an art project and not a way to make money. The new handles mean each hammer takes even longer to make and if I sold them for minimum wage plus expenses, not a person on the planet would own one. Making a handle adds about 50% to the time it takes me to make a hammer but I think this is a better handle and better is just that - better. Figuring out how to make something good using the crap equipment I have in the garage is most of the fun. I think functional art is the best kind of art and I really only hope that people will use and enjoy my hammers. I hope Aaron wears it out so I can make an even better hammer for him.
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Cool Dan.
The handle looks much thicker than the storebought handles. Have you done any more drilling speed tests for your most recent design?
I like your logo stamp, very professional looking.
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The handle shape is unusual but I think it feels right. I basically matched the circumference of a typical handle. It would be easy to make a smaller or larger handle if someone has smaller or larger hands. I think my hands are fairly big with a thumb to pinky span of 10".
I haven't done any drilling tests lately. Probably should do that but since my earlier tests basically concluded that the important variable were length and weight it doesn't seem too urgent.
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She's a beauty, Dan!
What's on the side of the head in the 5th pic down?
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Very nice, Dan. Always enjoy your reports on exploring improvements in craftsmanship.
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What's on the side of the head in the 5th pic down?
That shows the size of the steel wedge and demonstrates that the pin goes through the wedge as well as the head and the handle. I don't think it will ever come apart.
Thanks Susan, better hurry up and wear out your hammer so we can get you a new one.
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DAMMERR update
If you follow StupidTopo you probably know what is going on but:
A DAMMERR handle broke going up Leaning Tower. I may have damaged it putting it together or perhaps it was asked to do too much. Anyway, I fixed the broken DAMMERR with a fiberglass handle and it is back at work in the valley. It also caused me to study up on required strengths for handles and pay $80 for the ASME hammer standard. The current DAMMERR has a handle reinforced with steel tubing and far exceeds the ASTM standard. If you have a plain handle, it should be fine for drilling but if you really try, I think you can break it prying out a stuck piton.
I had a free sub-domain and server space so I put up the website DAMMERR.com, Low tech, low effort HTML. Send me a picture of your DAMMERR in action and I will post it. Also some user comments.
I ordered some stickers but I am not a graphic designer so don't get your expectations up. Next time we meet I will give you one. Cost $45 for 20 oval vinyl car stickers.
I don't plan to make any more DAMMERRs - at least for awhile - but I still have a few on hand.
I do have one of the handles I made left if somebody else breaks a handle.
Fiberglass handles cost ~$10-15 but are hard to find. Ordered from websites often take 3-4 weeks since they usually drop ship them and they can't find them either. What you want is part number 59853 or product number A8513 which is a 13" handle that is 0.85" in the large dimension of the cross section. It has the regular (type H) grip not the weird grip that the Omega Pacific hammer uses. They are a pain and somewhat tricky to put on.
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Nice Dan. I like the metal sleeve you added to the base of the heads.
One of our Dammers head rocks a little sometimes. Did you drill through the wedge for the pin?
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I have always liked a bit of an oval feel to handles of any hammer, climbing or construction projects. For my hammers I have always done a hockey stick tape job (couple wraps then spin the role until the tape becomes like thin rope. Wrap ridges up the handle .5" - 1" apart. Layer over with flat tape back to base. It should be one continued wrap from start to finish). I usually only tape the portion I will be gripping. Fingers fit between the ridges and the grip is better than anything else I have tried. In hot weather on a roof or on the rock, you don't get any slipping in the hand.
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Great seeing the evolution of the design. Sorry we've not been very helpful with photos. Will try to make a point of getting some decent photos with the Dammerr in use.
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John, yes the pin goes through the wedge. I think you have one of the handles I bought rather than made and the fit wasn't always good. The handles I make fit very snug to start. I do have one of the handles I made left, let me know if you need it. Your hammer can be converted to the steel tube reinforced type but you have to bore out the head to 1". I've done this and the steel isn't too hard although I did use a carbide boring bar. I also have some of the tube and more wedges if you need them.
Daveytree, Hockey tape is perfect for hammer handles although the type and quality varies a bit. I really liked some "CompoStick Friction Tape" I found one time. I guess hockey players used to use the cloth electrical "friction" tape and this stuff is tacky on the outside like that and super tenacious sticky on the inside. I haven't tried the ridges thing you do but will try it.
Edit: That should be Comp-o-Stik.
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I have gone cheap and just use the regular sports tape. It comes in colors but I just go regular white because it usually turns brown after a while anyway and the white keeps the grip from getting hot during a summer romp hanging off the harness. I find I use less grip strength, with the ridges, after a lot of use.
I will snap a picture this weekend and post it up since I have it hanging in a tree next to my current project wall.
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Thanks for clarifying the pin thing. Are the pins peened on one end? I can easily grind the pin, re-set the wedge, and re-drill and pin...Back in bizness
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The early ones were a piece cut from a nail peened on each ends. The later hammers use a hollow spring pin.
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It occurred to me that after all the hammer/drill/holder speed testing, I had not tested the whole package: a DAMMERR, a bayonet holder and a sharpened bit. So I did. The only other improvement I can think of would be to use a shorter bit with a fatter shank but I don't have one right now. My arm is weak since I haven't drilled anything in about a year but I went ahead and tried anyway. My arm was pretty pooped out by the end which caused me to get sloppy and the bit to bind a little bit but I drilled a usable 3/8" bolt hole in 4m 30s.
The fastest drill rate in my tests last year was 0.44 inches per minute. Yesterday I managed 0.47 inches per minute.
Time shortened video on YouTube:
https://youtu.be/fezX_2M080Q (https://youtu.be/fezX_2M080Q)
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sik!
now get a plastic bucket, turn it upside down, sprinkle dirt on it, throw some black lichen in the air, look up, rub eyes gently, step up onto the bucket and try the damerr combo system!!
:)
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ION, my best time, perfect stance for an anchor was 12 minutes in granite.
I can go faster in Pinns rock, but that's cheating.
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Damm!
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Sub-five minutes sounds pretty dern good! I have never timed a hand drilled 3/8" hole but they all feel like 30 mins.
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Sub-five minutes sounds pretty dern good! I have never timed a hand drilled 3/8" hole but they all feel like 30 mins.
the depth is what makes or break the 20 min mark. On the Godar Shorty 3/8" bolts, they can go fast. On the Powers sleeves, yeah, gunna be there a while so wear your stiff shoes.
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Another drilling experiment to report.
I have some 10mm x 110mm drill bits that I got from the UK a long time ago. When I first bought them, they seemed pretty good and then later the tips blew out in less than one hole so I gave up. After learning more about how sudden temperature changes destroy carbide, I realized that these bits started blowing out when I switched from hand sharpening them with a diamond file to using the green silicon carbide grinding wheel. So, I decided to try them again.
I believe that shorter bits will drill faster and that steps in the shank diameter will also slow down drilling. In hopes of making a fast drill, I put the bit in the lathe and tapered the little step in the shank. I sharpened the bit by hand and also reduced the width of the tip by hand to match a 3/8" bit.
I set to drilling and 7 minutes later, pouring sweat, I had a 2.1" deep hole. After the initial bum-out, I tried to figure out what went wrong and why it was so slow. I found that the angle between opposite faces of the tip is larger than the bit I used in the last test. So the 10mm bit was sharp but the tip angle wasn't as acute. I need to not only sharpen but change the angle of the tip. This will be hard work by hand and I wish I had a wet, diamond wheel but they are expensive.
Anyway, the bit held up fine for one hole anyway and I think the trouble I had was the heat generated in bench grinding and the fact that I kept quenching them while grinding trying to keep them cool.
If you want to try short 10mm bits I think these are OK. I got them from seller UKDrills on Ebay. Seems to be the same as this website: www.ukdrills.com (http://www.ukdrills.com) Item 48.100110 £10.46 for ten. Might be easier to contact them through Ebay. The only marking on the bit is a 10 in a circle so I don't know where they are made.
For sharpening I bought an EZE-LAP 36C 1 by 4 Coarse Diamond Pocket Stone with Sheath on Amazon for $15 which I like.
If anybody wants a DAMMERR T-shirt, contact me.
http://dammerr.com/
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/10mmSDS_a.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/10mmSDS_c.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/10mmSDS_b.jpg)
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I measured the angle between the faces of the tip getting 80 degrees for the fast bit and 95 degrees for the slow one. I measured the angle perpendicular to the edge
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Keep on sperimenting!
So you are expecting about 5 minutes a hole for 3/8" shortie bolts? Most wouldn't be so bummed at 7 minutes for a 2.1" hole.
I would think the flutes are too short on that bit and would need to be cleared out more often to prevent binding from dust. Did you get much binding?
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*LIKE*
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Dan - Liking the promotionals! Please I would like to order two tee shirts. One large, one small. And the different stickers. Let us know the details and I will pay up.
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OK Susan, I'll email you.
John,
Sharp bits with a narrow tip seem to make larger stone chips which bind up. This slows down drilling but fewer hammer blows are required - which might be fine.
I resharpened the stubbie bit so the tip was at 80 degrees and I had to keep clearing the hole due to binding. Time wise it didn't seem so fast but I felt like it was removing a lot of rock with each hammer blow.
Some rainy weekend this winter we should get together and let everybody try different bits, sharpness, tip angles, holders and hammers.
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I watched Kevin drill a short rivet ladder in record time this weekend, He was digging the new tool with tape on the handle.
I have not had my early run dammerr out there yet as we had 3 already fixed, but plan on taking his on the lead.
I like the pick end the most for beaking and heading, much better than the bd or A5/D5.
Dan, I would love to have a shirt/stickers just let me know how much! I will spray the goodness to all wall rats I see.
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Yeti-
Which DAMMERR did you end up with? I don't seem to have you in my notes. They all have a serial numbers under the head except the first two.
If I recall, I wrapped Kevin's handle with the comp-o-stik hockey friction tape. I love that stuff, it's grippy, sticky and lasts a long time.
I'm very pleased you like the hammer, I've tried to make them the best I can.
Not being a capitalist or entrepreneur, I have no Idea what t-shirts are worth. Something between $0 and $50 I would guess. Fish Products sells t-shirts for $12. The Rolling Stones website sells t-shirts for $40. I think I know who is making more money. $12 would make me happy but I'd give you one for free if you asked. I can throw in some stickers.
Just email me.
banquo@dammerr.com
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It sounds as if you like Kevin's newer DAMMERR better than your old one. We'll have to figure out how to upgrade you.
Also, I've been trying to figure out how to make a loaner DAMMERR available. I'm particularly interested in getting more big wall climbers to try one. But every scheme I think of seems like it would end up with me giving hammers away or spending too much money.
Maybe have a loaner on hand and if somebody wants to try it, they paypal me $100 and I send them a hammer. If you send the hammer back, they get a refund.I might even consider paying the postage to send it but they would have to pay postage to send it back.
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Thanks so much Dan - We received the goods! The T-shirts look great and the stickers too!
We had a camera situation this weekend, and are back to square one getting a new point and shoot, or else I'd have something decent to post showing the tees. Soon.
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Thanks Susan,
I am pretty sure I'll never turn a profit on hammers or t-shirts but I have fun with it. What money I do get goes to buying materials and tools. Just ordered a big slab of hickory so I can make more handles.
It always makes me smile to see photos of hammers and now t-shirts.
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We love the shirts and stickers Dan, thanks. We will post some action shots with our new shirts in action soon.
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Heading up this weekend, shirts and Dammerr in tow.
Photo shoot on Saturday from an obscure corner in the ditch.
BAM!
Thanks for the speedy mailing, just in time.
I may have to get a medium for KEV, cuz well...he is 120LBS wet.
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Having fun you three... no doubt! Did I ever get that photo over to cobbledik of all that wall gear?
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(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/DSCN0390_resized.jpg)
Thank you again, Dan! Enjoying the Dammerr Tees!
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1110294_resized.jpg)
Not our rack - Cobbledik's Wall Rack
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Glad you like your t-shirts. Wait until you see that caps I'm getting ready.
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DAMMERR updates
I cut down a black locust tree in the yard and want to make some handles out of it. Hickory is probably the best wood for handles in general but black locust should work fine for DAMMERRS. Black locust tends to have about the same density and bending strength as hickory but less impact strength (~75%). But should be strong enough. The compression and shear strength of locust tends to be slightly higher than hickory.
The best thing about locust is it has a very low expansion rate for moisture. Hickory is low but locust is quite a bit lower (~60% of hickory) which should help keep handles tight. It is used for pegs in timber peg construction for this reason.
Here's my handle problem, I need to mill a log that is about 18" diameter at the butt and a little over 4' long. If anybody has access to a band saw or something that can cut this into 1-3/4" slabs that would be helpful. I have a buddy that had a saw capable of doing this but he moved his shop a couple years ago and it fell off the truck and the remnants went to the recycler. Urban lumber milling is popular these days and there are several in the Bay Area so I can probably get one of these guys to cut it up for some money. There is a guy in Gilroy doing this: http://www.bakerhardwoods.com (http://www.bakerhardwoods.com)
I have a change I want to make to the heads but I need access to a milling machine; something I don't have since retiring from SJSU. I am working on plans for a small shop in the backyard which I hope to build this summer so perhaps I will get a small one then. Don't know what I will get but it can't be too big. I'm also a lame and lazy machinist so require a DRO.
Also, I have made some drill holders out of aluminum but I haven't had a chance to try them out yet. If anybody wants to and is doing some drilling, let me know and I'll you send one. They are made from 7/8" hex bar (6061 T6511) with a 1/2 x 1-1/4 dowel pin for a striking surface in a reamed (0.498") hole. A small steel plug is pressed into the bottom of the drill socket in hopes the socket doesn't wear out too fast. SDS Plus bit is held in place with two 1/4" set screws. I drilled and tapped set screw holes in all six faces so if the holes wear out you can switch holes. Blue Threadlocker is very effective at keeping the screws from working loose but the Threadlocker has to be refreshed once in awhile. The holders are really light (160 g), lighter than the RocPec (200 g). The 7/8" hex provides a better grip than the 3/4" steel and is lighter. I really don't know what their useful life will be. If they last one back country trip, that's good enough for me.
(http://www.dammerr.com/images/Alum.jpg)
Lastly, I made a few steel holders out of 3/4" hex and fitted them with grips I got from Russ Walling at Fish. These grips are huge and beefy.
(http://www.dammerr.com/images/Fish.jpg)
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Snazzy!
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We can revive shop night at my shop if you want to do some milling, Dan. I will check and see if my bandsaw can do 18" but I doubt it.
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Oh wait, I didn't see the 4' part when I read this. Not for my bandsaw.
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No problem, I got all the time in the world.
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Also, I have made some drill holders out of aluminum but I haven't had a chance to try them out yet. If anybody wants to and is doing some drilling, let me know and I'll you send one.
Haven't lately but may in another month or two, so it would be nice to try one. Thanks for offering! Excellent post, Dan!
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Also, shop nights were fun. I miss those.
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Way off topic, having lunch in Manhattan tight now, thousands of miles from the nearest DAMMERR.
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Did you have a Manhattan in Manhattan?
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How exciting! Enjoy!
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Had few Manhattans but am easing off on that. Lunch yesterday was not my favorite, a vegetarian place. I had a grilled "cheese" sandwich with "bacon." Absolutely nothing wrong with it that some cheese and bacon wouldn't have fixed. We go my daughter all set up in her apartment which required me putting together Ikea puzzles. Off to Boston tomorrow.
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Future DAMMERR handles in the making. Video of my little log being milled.
https://youtu.be/QxO6-GO2YfA (https://youtu.be/QxO6-GO2YfA)
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Cool. Now that is the type saw I thought of when you mentioned the size of your log. Glad you got access to one.
BTW, I haven't forgotten you and having a shop night Dan, I have just been too busy to set one up. One of these days I swear!
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Some DAMMERRs and t-shirts on Ebay if anybody needs one.
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I've been using my Dammerr with great efficiency, so much so that I've left the BD out of my kit. As along as I maintain a snug, but loose grip and maintain the aim, I can get a bolt in fast even when tired otherwise. To be honest, as I've been thinking about how poorly my grip was on my BD, it really is a zen-like concentration that is required to not otherwise drift into 'oh a little rest la la land' which devolves into a 30 minute hole.
From a bad stance, the longer shaft takes getting used to after years of BD.
Thx for making the Dammerr!
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Great job on the Ebay ads - a live model and all for the tee-shirts...
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Speaking of morals and ethics, is this in poor taste? Would you wear it on a t-shirt?
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Crossed_Hammers.jpg)
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Busted my rocpec with the Power of the Dammerr today!
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Rob,
I'll mail a bomb proof drill holder to the 95383 address. Let me know if you need anything else like t-shirts, rap rings, DAMMERRs, stickers, funkness cable, whatever.
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Cool! I was going to rerig the other hand drill you set me up with too.
But honestly my hands just hurt so won't be drilling much more by hand this season.. Just too much 3/8" in short time.
Also, shit bits aren't helping. Wailed and realized it wasn't deepening. 40 useless hammer hits.
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What bits are you using? I've been using old style Makita bits and they are lasting at least 20 holes in granite. I find 25 packs on ebay for $1 to $2 a bit. They are the plain tip with two cutting edges which I find to be more efficient at drilling. The 4 edge bits and the Bulldog type ones suck at hand drilling although they might be good for power drilling. I think most of the new tip designs are intended to last a long time rather than to drill fast.
They don't last as long if you sharpen them although they will drill faster. They don't last at all if you let the tip heat up when you sharpen them. Carbide simply self destructs with large temperature changes. If you heat it up and quench it, it will simply crumble.
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Bosch bits from Lowes.
Going to return them.
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I like the logo!!
I do think it would be offensive to people who only have one Dammer..they couldn't imitate the logo.
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Like
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Slow Monday here at DAMMERR Heavy Industries. I have ordered some new stickers and will be making some new t-shirts.
The last t-shirts (green w/ skull) were kinda flimsy so I think I will buy better quality. Just curious if anybody has any opinion about color. I'll probably stick to a similar green but may go to "smoke grey."
http://www.blankshirts.com/Hanes_5180.htm (http://www.blankshirts.com/Hanes_5180.htm)
Can also do women's, long sleeve and pocket but those all cost more.
I'm also inclined to stick with the black for artwork but that's easy enough to change too if anybody has a compelling argument for another color. What color is SoYo?
http://ezscreenprint.com/pages/screen-printing-inks-color-chart (http://ezscreenprint.com/pages/screen-printing-inks-color-chart)
Stickers:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/PF_Hammer_s.jpg)
T-shirts:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Crossed_Hammers_s.jpg)
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Smoke grey
XXL to avoid butt crack displays when digging in a haul bag.
:)
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Bright colors for photo ops - blue, red...
My favorite color of those shown isn't one I would recommend for this shirt design: soft yellow.
My next fave is blue and that seems a generally popular color that tends to do well in photos.
Gray is cool for the design and great if you want camo and to blend. My fave color for the design regardless of what I prefer to wear is red.
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XXL costs more and not many climbers want one. We may need to put Munge on a diet. The women's shirts cost more too.
Red is a great color and I have been considering that even though I generally prefer to not be seen. My wife likes yellow but yellow doesn't look good on most people and isn't a guy color - most people with a DAMMERR shirt are guys. Red is a power color and will certainly get more notice.
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Alas, the XXL is only somewhat weight related, mostly it is height related, once the shirt goes in the dryer it shrinks and my ass crack hangs out when moving around.
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Several jokes could probably be made about "jam crack" if I was funny at all.
Not to worry my friend, I will "cover your ass" by making sure the next batch of t-shirts has some XXL's.
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heheheh
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I will "cover your ass"
gets a 10 on the humor scale from me!
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I haven't made any t-shirts but will get around to it. I did make some stickers which my friends can have for free if they ask. I'll even mail them if you give me an address.
Just finished a one off hammer to give to my son. Used wood from a locust tree we cut down in the yard in April. Locust is stronger than hickory but is slightly more brittle. Should be fine since I have never had trouble with handles shattering. Locust is very stable with moisture change which should be good. I made the biner hole larger and oval so it works with pretty much any biner. I used a larger spring pin for more strength and it is easier to assemble because the hole is less susceptible to misalignment. I used a rectangular hole in the head for the handle for the first time - there is a strength reason that this is good but makes it harder to reinforce with steel.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/73a.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/73b.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/73c.jpg)
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That is one handsome looking hammer.
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The larger biner hole is a great idea. It does look like another quality Dammer hammer!
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Ordered some blank red t-shirts today. Munge's XXL cost 181% what S, M, L & XL cost. Just so you all know how much I value him - apparently 181% more than the rest of you bums. ;)
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LOL!! Everyone else will value not seeing my ass crack 181%!!
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I've been goofing off in Merrick Laboratories and have learned a little bit about Black Locust wood. This was prompted by a talk I had with a guy that makes hammers, a blacksmith, about handles. Outside the blacksmith shop were several Locust trees so I told him I make handles of Black Locust. He said he would never do that because it is too brittle.
Anyway, not being one to believe what people say without supporting evidence, I went to work. Post truth I am not.
Part 1: Research
My primary source here is the Wood Handbook published since 1910 by the US Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Wood Products Laboratory. A link to this document is below. I looked up the three things that were of interest; bending strength (modulus of rupture), shear strength parallel to the grain and impact resistance. Modulus of rupture is a pseudo bending ultimate stress. I call it pseudo because the tension and compression behavior of wood is not symmetric and classic beam theory does not exactly apply. Shear strength is just the ultimate shear stress parallel to the grain. Parallel to grain because wood is very weak in shear parallel to the grain and very strong perpendicular to the grain so wood shear failure is always parallel to the grain. Impact resistance is expressed in inches and is the 50 lb weight drop distance that will break a 2" square beam spanning 28 inches. There are several species of Hickory so the values vary a bit. I have added Red Oak, Black Maple and Douglas Fir for comparison
Modulus of Rupture
Hickory: 18,100 to 20200 psi
Locust: 19,400 psi
Red Oak: 13,900 psi
B Maple: 13,300 psi
D Fir: 12,400 psi
Shear:
Hickory: 1740 to 2430 psi
Locust: 2480 psi
Red Oak: 1910 psi
B Maple: 1820 psi
D Fir: 1130 psi
Impact:
Hickory: 67 to 88 inches
Locust: 57 inches
Red Oak: 41 inches
B Maple: 40 inches
D Fir: 31 inches
Part 2: Testing
I used smaller pieces than the wood handbook values which shouldn't have much effect on bending and shear. My impact test used a 15 lb piece of 3/4" steel plate edgewise for a drop weight. My impact beams were 1" x 0.75" in section and tested flatwise. The span was 6 inches. My impact tests are not comparable to the published values but are comparable for the two materials tested.
Modulus of Rupture
Hickory: 24,800 psi
Locust: 19,600 psi
Shear:
Hickory: 1700 psi without failure during bending test
Locust: 1200 psi without failure during bending test
Impact:
Hickory: 24 inches
Locust: 24 inches
Part 3: Calculated Demand:
My calculations find that my current hammer handle design has the following working stresses based on the design forces specified by the ASME standard B107.400 for striking tools. I used the prying forces specified in that standard for claw hammers.
Design:
Bending: 10,700 psi
Shear: 210 psi
Part 4: Conclusion:
I think carefully selected pieces of Black Locust will perform very well for making hammer handles. Locust has higher bending strength than some hickory species and higher shear strength than any hickory species. Black locust impact resistance is similar to hickory and in my tests, the same. Hickory has the added advantages of better decay resistance and much less drying shrinkage which should help keep the head tight if the hammer is exposed to moisture changes.
Black Locust may have somewhat less impact strength than hickory but the biggest risk of failure in a climbing hammer is probably when prying with the pick where the failure mode is static bending and black locust is stronger than hickory in static bending. For a purely striking (impact) tool (blacksmith's hammer) a thinner handle made from hickory might be adequate compared to locust.
Lastly, it is possible to break any hammer. Hammer abuse is punishable by banishment.
Wood Handbook:
https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100 (https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100)
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Way to go Dan.
I am so impressed with how much thought you have put into a device with essentially only two parts. I never even heard of Black Locust until I read this.
I like how you found a fellow hammersmith too! I bet you could have your annual convention for all of the members of your national association of hammersmith's at one table at a Denny's.
Keep up the good work!
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John, I am somebody's crazy uncle in case you didn't know.
Black locust is an interesting tree. Native to Appalachia but transplanted all over. Homesteaders planted it because it was so useful, grew very fast and can get by without too much water. They do prefer forest with leaf litter and will succumb to beetle infestations in other environments - which is what happened to the tree in my yard. It is only related to one other tree I know of, the desert ironwood which is too dense to float and is found along the Arizona/Mexico border. It is in the legume family and related to the pea. If you ever saw the blossoms, leaves and seed pods this close relation to the pea would be obvious. Generally considered to be the strongest lumber native to North America. Eastern tribes used it for bows and it was considered the best wood for timber peg construction. Especially for the pegs because it doesn't swell as much as other hard woods when it gets wet.
Yep, crazy uncle stuff.
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New T-Shirts ready for summer.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Jolly_Hammers.jpg)
S, M, L, XL, XXL
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Red_T-Shirts.jpg)
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Great looking! I'll order a m & l please.
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For my friends, they are free.
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That's very nice! Looking forward to a next get-together.
Anticipation for the new season beginning to run high.
p.s. not sure if m or s is better for me yet.
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my plumber crack thanks you. lol
Let's go climbing!
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A mention of "Uncle Dan" in:
http://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/8647/inside-the-customised-cases-of-five-nyc-ballet-dancers (http://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/8647/inside-the-customised-cases-of-five-nyc-ballet-dancers)
See it?
(http://anotherimg.dazedgroup.netdna-cdn.com/786/azure/another-prod/350/4/354685.jpg)
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That's funny.
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She must be incredibly talented! And that is very sweet! Bet she would be incredible at climbing!
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Happy 4th of July! Have a dammer good weekend friends whatever you do!
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/IMG_2598_resized.jpg)
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These tools seem to last.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/1.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/2.jpg)
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Some serious mileage there!
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Some DAMMERRs on hand, also some drill holders.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/a.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/b.jpg)
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Wow you've been busy, what a great looking lot, and just in time for a new climbing season....
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I don't know how to post a video but there's a DAMMERR in this one.
https://youtu.be/ltGUj1jMUUc (https://youtu.be/ltGUj1jMUUc)
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Very cool!
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Looks like fun! They didn't say how long it took, I hear about one minute bolts in songs sung by the natives but i haven't seen it yet.
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Lotta laughs watching that one. Jefferey the Referee! Yeah, pretty cool that your Dammerr takes a star role!