Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: susan on March 19, 2013, 12:53:45 pm
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At Queen's Throne on Lonesome Whistle
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/05135d8d-033a-41ea-af19-981af0672054.jpg)
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Sean on Orange Slice
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/sean.jpg)
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Cowboy Crack
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/cowboy.jpg)
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Sean on Orange Slice
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/sean.jpg)
sweet!!!
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Mucci on Drench Warfare
(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/Big%20Sleep/IMG_4015.jpg)
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Mucci..in charge!
lars
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Roger H. on an unfinished project, Hidden Eagle.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2602/3903300012_d611710f00_b.jpg)
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Nice one Nate!
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Looks pretty thin above that next bolt Nate.
lars
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Could be Lars. Can't wait to get back up there and see. Got dark before we could give it a whirl. Might have to work the shallow groove. Doesn't look as thin as the terrain John is stancing in the first shot in this thread!
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dig it!
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Man, it's fun to sling plates and knobs like that.
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Indeedy! If Found Please Call:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vW3F1QCIWt4/UVEJNdNhBJI/AAAAAAAAAA0/INUmEtLzX9Q/s1440/Higher_On_IFPC_RETOUCHED.jpg)
Photo by Dave Daly
(color enhanced by Slater)
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Really sweet shot.
Hey Nate, what is the story with that name?
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Hey Nate, what is the story with that name?
This:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3N-Do3CQ6Ls/UVNtLaCIiLI/AAAAAAAAACo/0De7MorkLBs/s890/LOSTEAGLE_NOTICE.jpg)
In the first several years of sneaking up there to our potentially "secret" crag, Ger and I had joked around about posting this goofy flyer at the base of the dome, in case some other climbers also stumbled upon the place. ;D
Oh, and please, nobody call the number as I have no idea where it leads...
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Hahaha nice
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Wow, I wasn't expecting a graphically-aided answer! Nice! Thanks for the splenation.
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Best thread yet.
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Up at Sundial
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/3bf83966-d868-47ee-8b97-5a0f63c316af.jpg)
Yeti - I've got some from the Titanic to post but need your permission
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Sue gettin er dun....with many "dainty" little taps.
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/suehammer_zps6fc9e35e.jpg)
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Is that crack any good for pro? Looks like bolting next to a crack? (not trying to be an ass, just inquiring, photos can often be deceiving, and I'd ask that question of anyone).
talk about text book salt and pepper colored granite!
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Photo is deceiving. That crack is being used and is farther away from the bolt than it looks in the photo. Will show you in person one of these days hopefully.
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I'm in! Looks good
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Sean and Josh finishing their line...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8112/8602625350_d5a2915222_c.jpg)
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I found an interesting photo offering an alternate perspective on where I placed that bolt.
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1020221boltmarked.jpg)
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Kev on Physics of Death
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/IMG_0784.jpg)
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word, that thing is definitely out there on the face by itself
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That original view does look horribly suspicious.
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(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/IMG_1294-1.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/IMG_1294-1.jpg.html)
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NICE!!
TITANIC ATTEMPT!!
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Titanic - Better shot of you guys - Looks like you were on the last pitch maybe
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/IMG_1296-1.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/IMG_1296-1.jpg.html)
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(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/7a835989-73cb-4ab8-bae8-195e374f89a5.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/7a835989-73cb-4ab8-bae8-195e374f89a5.jpg.html)
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That climb looks too good.
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It's really good. When you coming out sometime?
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(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/IMG_38242.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/IMG_38242.jpg.html)
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is that snow?
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Might have been a little snow that day... rain was pouring for the most part. I remember Laura, Jess and I staying put in the Westy playing cards and sipping bloody Mary's. A fine day.
(later added - there was no snow that day as it wasn't that cold - just rain.)
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jeebus! FA's in the rain.
I'm going to have to train just to keep up!
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Munge and Yeti on their line on Shuteye Peak.
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1040131_zps68db026b.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1040131_zps68db026b.jpg.html)
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Man, great times, and we were all over that dome, up and down and drink and clown....
John what is the last picture you posted of?
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That is you.
See the little green guy above the little blue guy? You=green, Munge=Blue
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Jeff on Middle Age Man's Fancy Dreams
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/Minerva/IMG_2717.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/Minerva/IMG_2717.jpg.html)
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Sweet shots I've never seen of Moustache!
Here is one of John on Rainbow Connection as requested, 3rd pitch
(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/rc.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/rc.jpg.html)
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What a great shot Sue.
I will move those photos over here where they belong.
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John's pic makes it seem so low angle. Can you squeeze the image a bit to make it steep?
thx buddy
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(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/KEVPHYDEATH_zps5da7a787.jpg) (http://s300.photobucket.com/user/joshmucci/media/KEVPHYDEATH_zps5da7a787.jpg.html)
Swilloh on the 2nd pitch of Physics of Death gray eagle dome. Proud of him on this!
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Jefe on the project 'slack ping' Swilloh on belay, on the owl wall right side. This was our first FA together, CHECK THE PONYTAIL!!! GET SUM!
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn12/joshmucci/JEFESLACK_zps89c8b4fd.jpg) (http://s300.photobucket.com/user/joshmucci/media/JEFESLACK_zps89c8b4fd.jpg.html)
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Aw, nice!
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Sue on her masterpiece, Elf Boot near Queens Throne
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/57bb9714-e785-4766-8935-04577f8704d2_zpse7cd99d9.jpg)
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Looks pretty steep, way to go Sue.
lars
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looks worthy
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Thanks. I really love this climb.
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morning, is this route on dreamscape???, i am going there tomorrow, if so maybe check it out.
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Mike, it is not at Dreamscape, and I would recommend getting to it from a road that is currently closed bc of the fire. Also, I would like to decide if I should add a bolt towards the end of it. Either way, when I topo it, and am now inspired to get around to that, I'll be happy to share it with you.
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It sure looks good, susu. Still want to get out there with you guys...
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(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YaiTN9ihD0g/UgKHIAvmPvI/AAAAAAAAALk/Xf5cp3KScac/s912/3617086125_a42cc50ccb_o_R.jpg)
Roger Hayashi on Five Amigos
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Nice one. I would like to see some more of you, please, Nate.
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FAmigos was a very cool route.
Followed John on that and the 130 feet of slammer hands/fingers was sweet!
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Yea, I kinda wish that crack went to the ground cause it'd make a great casual first trad lead for folks.
Sue, my agent has to OK every pic of me shared in public. It's kind of a hassle, so I don't bother anymore ;D
OK, I confess... Jeff's comment on my legs awhile back has made me kinda shy...
Lots of other folks on this forum who haven't shared some shots yet! Bring 'em on ya'll!
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morning all and happy friday, i found an old pix of Reid,Brad, and I when we put up ugly monkey back in the day, it's on the fresno dome part of this site on the pix i posted, Reid is only 3 is this pix, check it out if youall like, happy climbing this weekend, mike a.
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Fun pic, mike. Hope you don't mind me reposting it right here, 'cause it was kinda hard to find (for me). In case you weren't aware, although it's an extra step, you can drag the pic from your photobucket page into another browser window, then select the url in that window, copy it, then click the "insert image" icon in your post on this forum, and then paste that url. (John probably has better written instructions somewhere on this site - but this is how I do it on a mac.)
(http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t549/Mike_Arechiga/16284_10201118255131081_1334789222_n2_zps217c7e09.jpg)
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(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SNwqtQXKtr4/UgVWf4RX_NI/AAAAAAAAAMA/up7Pzjl2FKE/s1152/100_2219.jpg)
pic by Ger
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thanks for the help, nice pix looks like a great route, cheers mike a.
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Very nice posts, Nate!
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Nate, Cool shots. Is that just left of Ugly Monkey, or somewhere totally different?
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Davey,
The Ugly Monkey shot is mike a's, which I posted from his photobucket link. The other photo is somewhere completely different.
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Love it and the "completely different". All will be revealed in time. Hahaha
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(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/P1010007.jpg)
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Noyce
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The little traverse was harder than it looks.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/815.jpg)
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Mmmm, very pretty rock and route.
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Purdy indeed. Fun romps never cease.
(https://photos-1.dropbox.com/t/0/AACEgTWGTFQGON_m-4Gomy-Q_iEuqoRzFKazR6ZtMpqMUA/12/62678511/jpeg/32x32/3/_/1/2/DSC07283.JPG/90ARXMlG6-c96M7ftKSDv5GiSDso8OZ9doyP-GTPPr4?size=1024x768)
Pic by Thomas G.
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Keep trying Nate!
I looked at your link and I don't think Dropbox will work. I did my own experiment and you can only send people to your albums there.
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Do I dare ask where this last shot was taken, Dan? Looks fun.
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It's on the QT
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That was gonna be my guess. ;) Don't recall if there was a recorded/reported line up that corner. Any evidence of passage?
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Hopefully this works. FA of "Runneling with the Pack" 10a at a new area
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Maybe this time or I give up!
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Don't give up Jerry!
You figured out how to do a photo-overlay topo for me so I know you can post a photo.
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(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3743/10597637424_494a43c76f.jpg)
Jerry appears at last!
Thru flickr, but man it sure wasn't straightforward like before. And it's smaller than I prefer. Hmmm. Seems everyone, except maybe photobucket is trying to make it hard or to discourage hosting photos to share elsewhere, other than twitter, facebook, blogs, and the like.
Whoops, and I see I posted in the wrong thread... will duplicate then.
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(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3818/10598402394_2d7bfdd131_c.jpg)
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(http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r730/soyobum/DSCF5816_zps236921dc.jpg)
FA Runneling with the Pack, 10a at Runnel Diaries Wall
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(http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r730/soyobum/DSCF5280_zpsa19a7acd.jpg)
Sigrid on the FA of "Mixed Bag" 5.8, Paradise Dome
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You posted photos!! Nice work!
Nice photos too. Paradise Dome?
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Excellent work, Jerry! And beautiful looking stone.
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Nice. Thanks for posting. Place looks like its name.
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Sweet! WAy to stick with it Jerry!
Paradise looks awesome.
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Walking With Walt V 5.11a, C-2. FA 2003, 10 years ago, seems hard to believe!!
(http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r730/soyobum/WalkingwithWalt_zpsd2d28a67.jpg)
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Looks sublime!
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I really wish that the 6th pitch on that was closer to the ground.
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Whoa yeah! Now were talkin!
Pulling on gear makes a happy Yeti.
Jerry I wanna do that route.
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John, I will take you there. You bring the beer.
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First 3 pitches have gone free at 10b, 10b and 11a. Nobody even wanted to try pitch 4 but John wants to give it a go. Overhanging, flared 4-5" so as long as I can bring my Jumars I'll belay!
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Graham Hubner freeing pitch 3, 5.11a, of Walking With Walt. The overhanging 4-5" crack of pitch 4 above
(http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r730/soyobum/IMG13_zps9e8965f3.jpg)
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Inspiring stuff' Jerry!
Can't recall if I drew up that basic photo overlay topo correctly for you. I must have not drawn in a dotted line for pitch one behind the trees, right?
Never took much note of the huge eye/hole further left on that impressive face. Must be some amazing portal to another dimension. No routes thru it currently, are there?
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Jerry- I am relieved to see you no longer call the route A1. Pins will ruin that climb.
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Jerry, I like the name, and what a tribute... Would enjoy hearing more about your first ascent sometime.
The first pitches strike me as harder than noted, though. When you get to the incipient crack of Narrow Gauge, it feels even harder than rated in the Soyo guide at 11b to me.
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It interesting the difference in ratings. I just followed the second and third pitches and rated off of what we felt that day. I'd like to go back and do the second again and see if we super sand bagged it. John said he liebacked P. 2 and we did it as a fingertip jam so maybe the difference? I probably can't do it at all now! On the FA we aided almost the whole route just to get it done but pitches 6, 8 and 9 will go free and I think Albert Nugue and Pat Warren freed pitch 8 and 9 at 10a.
The FA is a classic example of why I hate only having two days a week to climb. We did the first 4 pitches over one of our mid week "weekends". Pitch 5 is a bolt ladder and another weekend finished it. Another weekend for 6 and part of 7. 6 is a beautiful thin crack in a corner and 7 is mixed cams, hooks and bolts though I understand some or all the hook placements may be gone. It was so hot we then bagged it until fall.
Going back in late Sept there was a "10% chance of light scattered showerrs along the crest" so as you can guess it was a raging blizzard by the time I finished pitch 6. I set up the ledge and even with me in it and the haul bag tied to it the wind would pick up the ledge above the anchor and then drop it over and over again. It was obvious the ledge was going to be destroyed so as soon as Sigrid finished cleaning we did the most miserable raps and return to the car we have ever done or hope to do!
Don't remember why we put off finishing until the following fall but Kenny Rose joined us and we knocked it off in 3 uneventful days.
Does anyone have an explanation for the mental flaws that someone has to have to do a wall route, especially a FA? And we still have 3 or 4 more V aid FA's we want to do. Help me-what is wrong!!!!!
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Does anyone have an explanation for the mental flaws that someone has to have to do a wall route, especially a FA? And we still have 3 or 4 more V aid FA's we want to do. Help me-what is wrong!!!!!
Walt would be proud, I'm sure. :)
Now as to your affliction... I would write a prescription of cragging on good stone for a week. Come back and see Dr. Mucci. If the munge/choss/blocks he digs thru doesn't fix ya right up in a jiffy, it's hopeless. ;)
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Pitch 8 on Walking With Walt
(http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r730/soyobum/IMG18_zps0060ce61.jpg)
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I think it is hopeless until old age cures it!
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NOnsenSE!
I'm in my PRIME!
Steve tells me it only gets better with age.
Viva La AID!
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Yeah probably right, I'll be 66 in March and the fire still burns!
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The rock inspires out in the soyo
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Jerry-
Did Albert and Pat climb the entire route or did they rap in to free the upper pitches?
It is so great to see you posting photos! I know you have tons of great ones we want to see so keep em coming.
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Hi John-
They did it ground up freeing 1-3 and then freed 8 to the top. With a really strong free climber I think everything but P. 5 "might" go free. 6 looks like a classic thin lieback, 7 is cams, bolts (some may still need hangers) and hooks and is just a little less steep. It would be really hard if it goes, P. 5 is beyond anything I can imagine.
No mandatory free over 5.5 so I want to go do it again as an aid climb next year!
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Lynnea starting the 11c crux, pitch 1 of "Do It Don't Spew It" on the red point ascent, 9/9/09. Pitch 1 has the only vegetation, the rest of the climb is spotless.
(http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r730/soyobum/DSCN2094_zpsfe5eb01a.jpg)
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Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or did she shed a rack of cams on a bolt below?
Looks great.
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Yup, gear to that point and the rest of the pitch is bolts
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You call that vegged out? Looks fine to me.
Nice shot, looks steep.
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Splitter cracks on P. 1 of Do It Don't Spew it. The first 6 pitches are just under vertical then 7 and 8 gradually back off.
(http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r730/soyobum/DSCN2087_zps2a94ac4c.jpg)
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Just found another picture of "Do It", me leading pitch 6 on the FA, maybe the best 5.8 pitch I've ever done. This was about the only day we had without snow
(http://i1364.photobucket.com/albums/r730/soyobum/DSCN2054_zps2006a33d.jpg)
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Granite!!!!!
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Yeah, nice shots Jerry. Beautiful rock. What's up with those cracks that look so good for gear -- been too many times we look at what appears to be a good pro-able crack, only to get up close and see it out of the shadows, where it turns out to be sealed seams, shallow, flaring and/or decomposing rock... The veg there is so minor it just looks pretty.
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Bumping a good thread, (despite the strange warning that this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days).
Ger buzzing away in the heat on p.2 of Dazzzed Vizzzion. Photo by the indefatigable Dave Daly.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X6NCXXz3Nq0/U02NxNdWSCI/AAAAAAAAAXc/8ZjfiH7tmws/w1600-h1200-no/Pitch+2+Bolt+On+DV+II.JPG)
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What is with the packaging around the drill? It looks like a duct taped cereal box.
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what no hand drilling ??? lol :-)
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Ger should respond, but I think he hoped to protect the thing when dragging it up a cliff on a tow line.
And it looks more covert, right?
Power drill? What drill? That's just my box of Cap'n Crunch. :)
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That shot makes him look a little like Peter Croft
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Huh, 120 days. That's winter for ya!
Good shot of Tiki.
One of my favorite shots from those days at Owl.
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Huh, 120 days. That's winter for ya!
Also a slight indication of ongoing new route activity being kept on the down low, seeing as winter was almost non-existent. ;)
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Well, not anymore! ;D
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We have been doing mostly long-established routes with a handful of FA exceptions. That is our excuse for the 120 days. So sick of bolting.
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(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I2QO1XXFfgk/U5dok4l2d0I/AAAAAAAAAZU/EkZRjWwdn0o/w835-h1113-no/DSC08351_2.JPG)
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The single crack to cross country ski track lines diagonally running rightward on this face could be an FA of ours.... or someone else's... No hardware found on it, and none left by us. Dubbed it Cross Country several years ago. Wonder if anyone recognizes it.
(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/crosscountry.jpg)
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(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/6e141f6f-64d8-434c-aa44-8068be3d5be5.jpg)
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New line completed at Dreamtime wall above Queen's Throne.
Ghost Turds 5.12b/c Fa John Greer 10-11-14
akes the diaginal dike trending right, between Golden Serpent 5.12b and Dreamtime 5.13b. I think it may be 5.12b/c down low (4-5 bolts) followed by generally easier climbing(5.10-11) on the face and crack. Hope to get back up that way before the snow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXMOYXHNlIU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXMOYXHNlIU)
http://instagram.com/p/uLcSVRDR5-/ (http://instagram.com/p/uLcSVRDR5-/)
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Awesome work - TFPU your video! That is an impressive looking climb on a very nice wall.
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Nice going
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Nice job J!
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New route on Minerva put up this last fun ass weekend Sue, John and Sean with Ez, Danielle and Nala as our ground crew. No name yet but perhaps 10d/11a, all ground up, 7 bolts, a few pieces to 3/4" for a layback crack, ~100' .
Sue really shined on this project and went for it...totally earned the redpoint send on her first try. So proud.
Pictures are listed top down so everyone feels comfortable. He he.
Topping out via immaculate rock on her redpoint is a very happy Sue...
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/SueToppingOut_zps47579208.jpg)
Base of dike..
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/SueOnDike_zps0e96edad.jpg)
The wild transfer from crack to a bulge below dike...
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Sueendofflake_zpsd2a71092.jpg)
Good times..
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Success_zpsb8e2d9a4.jpg)
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Nice. Looks good. The dike looks like a fun feature.
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Rock and route looks great! Bravo!
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Thanks guys, and Sean & John. The guys were great partners - so encouraging! We each got motivated and threw down. Alternated turns bolting, egged each other on, threw out ideas for best placements, and the route kept improving. I was pleasantly surprised as shown in the top photo, having just finished an aggressive pt treatment of several weeks and otherwise going light if climbing at all lately. Only complaint today is being sore in mostly the right places. If anyone is interested in a good PT in the East Bay, let me know! Anyhow, John will topo the line and share that on the site I hope. I'd give it 4.222 biased stars.
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looks fun, great job, i wish i could climb and play with you guy's :-), i would be psyched to see a topo, happy climbing mike a.
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That route looks fun! Well done!
Future projects!
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Nice job you guys! I keep missing out.
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Tx all!
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Hey Jeff
What is your official rating for Of Wisdom and War? We are rating the new route in comparison to yours so it would help. I thought you said 10d but I have c/d in my notes for some reason. Thanks.
You shoulda been there. You need to get out there dammit!!!
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Oh man, I wanna get out there, been way to long. So many unfinished projects. So many others I want to climb. So many I want to repeat. Just don't know how to make it happen.
Who has done Of Wisdom and War? You and Sue. Sean? What is the consensus?
Where is your new route on Minerva? Sounds fun. Nice job.
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The photo of Sue on the dike, awesome, looks so far to the next bolt. Nice job. How hard is it to the next bolt? Who drilled that one? Would love to hear the full story play by play.
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I have led OWAW and remember your rating felt right on at the time, I just don't remember what rating that was! It has been a couple of years since I last led it. The thing is, we (at least I) think of the difficulty as very similar to our new one so we may as well rate it like the routes in the same area. Our new one is just to the right of OWAW.
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I'm in no hurry to rate this. More opinions soon could get a worse average before it gets better anyway. 10+/11- gives nice warning. The spacing of the bolts as you turn the bulge there as pictured is probably deceiving and not bad. Let's see, maybe we should wait til you climb it to ask you which bolt you think was placed by who? :) Sure would be nice to hang with you guys out there at least once before the year is up.
But you know what really messes me up for ratings is the first pitch of your 'Chad' climb at Parkline, Jeff. Have you settled on a grade for it? Following that I remember thinking it much higher than expected.
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I thought wisdom and war was 10d especially stepping out of that scoop down low. Similar to Orange Slice which I think is more sustained. I think the new route would rate the same. The upper dike in that picture is sweet and goes at a moderate grade. Sue earned the redpoint pushing the limits on lead. Such a good weekend. I am planning to head back up there November 8-9th.
Sean
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Again you guys, awesome job, it looks beautiful!
John, I have 10+ in my notes for OWAW.
Sue, I am not clear on you thoughts on the rating for Dangling Chads? Harder than 10+ or easier? What rating would you give. And yes it would be great to hook up with all you guys out there. I have to say I am jealous and a bit sad I was not there but happy for you all. I love the group shot.
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10 c/d it is. Thanks for clarifying.
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Seems a while ago when in reality it was only a handful of years since we climbed it. But as I recall, DC felt .11+ to me, long and sustained. I remember little chips peeling away, which happens on some of the best of rock faces, not knocking it. Doesn't make it unclean in my mind, just new. Still, that messed with me too, and I felt very doubtful when imagining leading it. I got a bad case of what I call "second head" on it, where I imagine the challenge of leading so clearly that I freak myself out on TR. LOL. I was impressed by how challenging it seemed.
Anyhoo, that is sweet Jeff. What you said. Really sweet.
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(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/P1110585.jpg)
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(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/14519534679_4ba52cd749_b.jpg)
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Sue, my original rating for DC p1 was 11a. Then a friend who wasn't climbing much did it on tr without falling so I down rated it to 10d. Then I took another friend on it and he called me a sandbagger. Then my buddy Austin lead it clean and he thought 11a was good. Then Flanders led it and he said 10b. I followed Flanders on a bunch of runout stuff on Middle Cathedral rated 5.9-10c and every pitch felt harder than DC. So it's probably 5.9, right John.
Now you got me thinking of that route. I love the first 2 pitches. The second pitch is so good. Sad it has only had a couple of ascents. Not sure if anyone else has done the whole thing to the top that I didn't do it with them?
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Wait, I thought DC had an easier first pitch then the second was the mega-sustained one. Hmm?
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Jeff-
Sue reminded me that we did the variation start from the right when we went up to do the .11 pitch 2 and did the entire monster first pitch at a different time. Me more reminderer now. That P1 of DC was awesome, like 20 .10- moves for 200' so I don't know if a .10 rating counts. Perhaps 9+ is fair. Tee hee.
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Did you do the 2nd? That one is 9++
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Yes we did. 9++ for sure.
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O man, we need photos. Do you have any of that route Jeff? The day we did it, I remember Squiddo and Dan R walking by on their way to another climb and stopping a few minutes to watch from the ground. I guessed I seemed to be epic-ing.
Watching Flanders float up climbs that day we saw you guys around Gray, and damn near solo'ing everything, I'm not surprised of his take on DC. Not at all.
Edited - scratch the word "take" - he didn't take. Replace with the word "impression."
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Heres a pix of amy and i when we put up thunderbolt this season on gold finger wall by the west face area at wa-mello/fresno dome
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heres a pix of my on the fa of golden eye arete 5.10c on gold finger wall, it could be the best route amy and i put up this season.
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here mike a. on the fa of bitch stewie 5.11+ on the family guy wall, this wall is to the left of south pillar.
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Thanks Mike, they look nice.
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Ditto, nice shots Mike!
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Super top secret wall with a huge approach.....don't ask where this classic is. Just kidding, Mammoth Dam, 3" approach.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1110689_resized.jpg)
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morning, here me on the fa of thunderbolt 5.10a on the gold finger wall.
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That orange colored stone never gets old to me. So nice.
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Mike
Is Bitch Stewie a TR FA? The gear looked sketch on that when I last looked at it. Nice job and thanks for the shots!
PS, We do "Arechiga's" in our photos regularly....we turn around and wave at the camera. We try and look at excited as you do but you may have the market cornered. Keep on wavin'!
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morning, yes it is a tr, the start needs a couple bolts to make it a lead route, after the start moves "the crux" a great crack goes up to the anchors with great pro placements, grahm just posted a couple pix on fb of him at the fresno dome trailhead, about a foot of snow, and he showed a pix of him pulling out some bone head up there with no shovel and no chains and he was stuck big time in the snow, but grahm got him out, i am going back up to fresno dome/ hawk dome this weekend i am sure most of the snow will be gone, but it will be cold, and this next week the weather looks like we will get some much needed rain and snow :-))), i am glad you like the wave, yes i am having a great time!!!, happy climbing mike a.
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Nice Mike. Love the gold rock as well. Hope to get up there in spring after duck season is over. My mind has made the shift for the winter.
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Sue sussing out a route on a new formation called the Steamboat.
(http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1100484_resized.jpg)
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Nice you guys!
More pics of Steamboat?
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Sure but it will be later since the photos are at home
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(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/john_resized.jpg)
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Sweet!!
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An oldie - not sure it's been posted.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/P1000455_resized.jpg)
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looks high on something like Minerva?
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Velly Nice......
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That be Sean & Dan. On Minerva.
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(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/DSCN1027_resized.jpg)
2nd pitch of California Cruiser
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(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/DSCN1077_resized.jpg)
Vic FA'ing into the 2nd pitch steep section of "Between a Roof and a Hard Face"
Great climb name!
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(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/DSCN1186_resized.jpg)
The right side of "O" face
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Have I been under that? My Grumpkin tells me so.
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Nope, not the Grumpkin area, but in the general neighborhood.