Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => Mt. Starr King => Topic started by: mungeclimber on March 13, 2013, 12:27:08 pm
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I'd like to do at least the regular route this year. Anyone game? Overnighter?
Any beta appreciated, especially approach info.
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Which one are you calling the regular route?
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Plenty of info regarding the standard route up the south shoulder (maybe even TRs), on summitpost and possibly ST, if memory serves. Looks fun.
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The 5.5/5.6 thing on the (I think) East side.
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Munge- always wanted to get out there and I'd be game. Definitely overnight.....no 5.9 or 5.10a? I think Brad has done all of them and Adam a few.
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YES, I want too climb zis stone as well.
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Sign me up. Looks like a ton of fun.
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Atomizer was just up there with Joe D. Looked awesome.
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I did the SE Face a few years ago with my son. I'd say the climb isn't worth the hike. Spent the night on slabs to the SW. Mosquitoes were bad in May with some snow patches around.
Last year I went with Clint, Roger Brown and Bob Steed to replace bolts. Bob and I did what Clint is now calling the SW Face. I like to call it the Illilouette Face. That was fun, 10 pitches of easy. Clint says 5.6R and from the pictures it looks runout but I don't recall it being spooky at all. That's me in the photo.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Illilouette%20Face.JPG)
Bob and I also climbed the NE Face once and down climbed it twice. No rap stations there although we did leave a nut one rope length down so we did rap half of it. Bob got a belay down climbing first and I got an imaginary belay down climbing second. It's a fun climb with a cool crack to jam. Basically you can down lead it if you want.
If you camp in the gulley to the NW of Starr King there should be water this time of year.
Clint's thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1850876/Bolt-replacement-Mt-Starr-King
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cool, thx Dan!
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Nice shot, Dan. Just curious about how long of a hike?
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About a five mile hike. Could be done as a day trip. From Mono Meadows trail head descend to Illilouette Creek then head straight for your goal. You'll leave the trail not long after crossing Illilouette Creek.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/StarrKingAppraoch.JPG)
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Anyone care to propose some dates?
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A friend of mine was on a fire out there and was able to sneek off and climb the Southeast Face. He soloed up and down in his fire boots. Yikes!
I have guided it twice and loved being on top but can't say I loved the hike. I never saw the eyebolt shown on the topo. The only gear I placed was for an anchor at about 70m in a horizontal crack. If you know me you should be able to guess my rack(hint=horizontal crack).
Star King is well worth the hike but I would vote for an overnighter next time as well as a different route.
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ahhh, need more pics in this thread
We did nuts and bolts a few years ago. the longest climb on the dome. We were motivated to climb it after hearing Clint, Dan and Roger rebolted the first two pitches and put a line on a picture. :)
Glacier Point Road was closed, so we hoofed it from happy isles. It wasn't too bad and the trail puts you right where you want to be. We camped just off the trail in a nice flat opening before you reach the creek. Next time camping up near the base would be really cool and maybe allow time for two climbs.
(http://nattie.smugmug.com/Vacations/MIXED-SPLITCLIMB-PICS-for-SS/Mt-starr-king-backpack/i-NfF8g2c/0/L/NC-121021IMG_0353-L.jpg)
good runs on the spine
(http://nattie.smugmug.com/Vacations/MIXED-SPLITCLIMB-PICS-for-SS/Mt-starr-king-backpack/i-PLcrBKk/0/L/NC-121020IMG_4117-L.jpg)
perfect lunch ledge above the big, slanted orange roof, past the spine]
(http://nattie.smugmug.com/Vacations/MIXED-SPLITCLIMB-PICS-for-SS/Mt-starr-king-backpack/i-hF9pWMM/0/L/NC-121020IMG_0286-L.jpg)
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TFPU!
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Woohoo...photos!! Thanks!! More??
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Hey great tr and photos!
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That photo of the whole face of the dome is beautiful. TFPU!
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That photo of the whole face of the dome is beautiful. TFPU!
100% agree!
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a few more
(https://nattie.smugmug.com/Vacations/MIXED-SPLITCLIMB-PICS-for-SS/Mt-starr-king-backpack/i-z2xv8r9/0/XL/121019NC-121019IMG_0182-XL.jpg)
upper part of nuts and bolts, below the tree
(https://nattie.smugmug.com/Vacations/MIXED-SPLITCLIMB-PICS-for-SS/Mt-starr-king-backpack/i-KkSJNGD/0/XL/121020NC-121020DSCN2832-XL.jpg)
camp
(https://nattie.smugmug.com/Vacations/MIXED-SPLITCLIMB-PICS-for-SS/Mt-starr-king-backpack/i-Dv6x6Z6/0/XL/121019NC-121019IMG_0187-XL.jpg)
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That camp looks awesome. Don't you love it when your objectives are in view of camp?
Thanks for sharing the photos, we would always love to see more if you got em.
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Yeah, ditto on that camp and view of the climbing. Looks prime!