Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => Fresno Dome Area => Topic started by: John on March 13, 2013, 06:47:56 am
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Here is my list of "Unknown" labeled climbs for Fresno and Hawk Dome. These are climbs that I do not have any information on besides some evidence that it was climbed, like anchors, bolts, etc. The worst downside of Unknown climbs is the lack of a name, but I would prefer to also know who first climbed it and when. I am also listing climbs that are Unnamed, since sometimes climbs were named but the FAists on record are not reachable.
Please send me a message if anyone recognizes these climbs and has any info. Thanks, John
Hawk Dome
Green Corner-11a
Pro: To 3”, extra 1.25 to 1.5
FA: Unknown
Slightly dirty cracks on sometimes fragile rock lead to a beautiful neon green corner crack. Bolted anchor at 100’.
1-Unknown- 5.11a Albert Nugue? These three following climbs are to the right of "Harlot" and left of "Bottoms Up, Top Down"
2-Unknown- Albert Nugue? Bolts.
3-Unknown- 5.10 b/c Albert Nugue route. Bolts.
4-Unknown/Unnamed-Between "2HP" and "You Aren't Braggin..." ; apparently a Theresa Ho, Tom Lambert bolted climb.
5-Unknown-10+ with bolts. Between "Unnamed" Nugue, Anderson 5.9 and "Freebird"
Roof Crack-10d (left of Eraserhead)
Pro: To 3”
FA: Unknown
In a bright yellow blocky area which is the true summit of Hawk Dome. Climbs short corner then out right to a steep and pumpy hand crack. Multiple anchors suggest this may be only a toprope.
OW to Handcrack-10a (left of Eraserhead and right of previous route)
Pro: To 4”
FA: Unknown
Has a strange bolt next to its anchor possibly to protect the downclimb for TR setup?
Harlot-5.6-Location?
FA: Dick Erb, Sam Sugine, Fred 8/1973
Two pitches, the first ends at a bombay chimney the second is 5.6 slab. Somewhere around far right of Hawk and around Eraserhead. Noted in the Robbins and Spencer Guides.
Fresno Dome
Unknown
On far left end of the West face immediately right of the gulley that divides Hawk Dome and Fresno Dome. Bolted route that starts from the right-facing corner which becomes a roof. Exits to left before roof and continues up to either the anchor for the bolted 11a Spencer Route or "Are You A Virgin", the retrobolted Anderson line.
Alternate Start to Water Music
Assuming that Water Music is the left of the two lines that run together left of Kammerlander, who did the right one? Old single bolt, later model than the one for Water Music. Appears to be same path as Water Music but a different start. Single bolt anchor above at a mini-ledge at a notch. About 5.8R.
Mixed climb on buttress?
On narrow sub-buttress below and right of South Pillar starts in left side of gulley at a tilted crack then two bolts to reach outer face. Bolted anchor with a bunch of slings on it. Name and difficulty?
Unknown-rumored to be 10d
Pro: Gear, slings
FA:Unknown
Between “High and Mighty” and a little left of “Whiskey Bill”, ending at P2 anchor of “Whiskey Bill”. Older bolts.
Unknown-5.8 (right of Friction Dandy and left of Looking Glass)
Pro: To 3”
FA: Unknown
P1. Three bolts, two below a crack and one above. 170’
P2. Straight up face along corner protected by around 6-7 bolts and a strange anchor which is best passed up. Belay shared with “Friction Dandy”. 160’
Looking Glass
FA information??
Unknown-5.8 (Bolted face immediately left of Watership Down)
Pro: Draws
FA: Unknown
Single pitch with rap anchor. Can continue on “Rowsby Woof” via some 5.6 face.
Fresno Flats-5.8
FA information??
Torn and Frayed-5.8-Location??
FA: Simon King, Jack Forsythe 6/1976
Unclear where this is. Read on: “This short, four-pitch climb was done by Jack Forsythe and me in June. It lies on the right side of a prominent pillar a few hundred feet right of the Beckey-Stuart route. Three obvious pitches lead to a huge ledge from where easy face-climbing leads right, then up to the unroping spot.” NCCS II, F8.
Simon King, Unaffliated
AAj 1976-Issue 2
Attempts to locate FA parties unsuccessful.
Blue Connection-5.8-Location??
FA: Simon King, Jack Forsythe 6/1976
Unclear where this is. Read on: “This one-pitch route starts 50 feet to the right of Torn and Frayed and involves an easy ramp followed by a tricky face move and ending with an unprotected water groove. Jack Forsythe and I made the first ascent in June.” NCCS I, F8.
Simon King, Unaffiliated
AAj 1976-Issue 2
Attempts to locate FA parties unsuccessful.
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Hawk Dome
#4 - Gadzooks, 5.10b June, 16, 2003
FA Bruce Bindner, Theresa Ho, Em Holland and Tom Lambert.
Crack to roof, and then 2 bolts.
Bruce had said in some correspondence: "No second pitch, we rapped when I encountered existing
bolted belay from the route to the left."
(I had given this info to Jerry A., but he didn't include it all on his topo.)
I'll also email you an original topo of a very early climb on Hawk in 1970 by John Eleazarian of Fresno. See if you can make sense of where it goes relative to all the newer routes.
Fresno Dome
Left of Onyx, you may or may not have Golden Showers:
http://www.summitpost.org/golden-showers/163834
Also, possibly relevant to your query, and if you didn't catch it, Casey Yorkunas posted some original topos for Fresno Dome on ST:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1783518&tn=40
This bit of history on routes may also be helpful, posted by Doug Robinson on ST awhile back:
"First of all, let's call it Wamello. John Muir noted that was its name, and we always used Wamello at the Rockcraft School with Royal.
Then, we had climbed the South Buttress ("South Pillar" in Spencer) back in the Rockcraft days in the early 70s. I guided it then, onsight. Not claiming the FA myself, but it was definitely a Rockcraft route. We avoided the bolted crux by starting in from the right, maybe 50 feet up the gully. I like the direct start, though. Much finer line.
"Fresno Flats" was originally 5.8X. I was the instigator of retrobolting it back in the mid-90s. That could be controversial, so here's the deal: The FA is listed as "Unknown." I asked around for a couple of years but could not find out who did it so I could talk to them. It seemed sad to me to waste a beautiful, beginner-friendly slab on a death route. So when I couldn't find the first ascentionists to talk to, I managed to find the cojones to lead it, then laid out the retrobolting. Mike Arechiga actually installed the bolts. We are pleased with its current condition and I have guided at least 20 ascents. Everyone like the climb.
FWIW, we now call that climb Wamello Rising, as Fresno Flats seems so uninspiring.
No doubt you have fresh topos for newer routes on Wamello. I'll just mention two:
A new bolted route maybe a year old has cropped up on that same slab, between Wamello Rising and Watership Down. I climbed it on Sunday, and it's good. 5.8 off the deck, well-protected, good position. There are now a number of bolted variations over the headwall above, from 5.8R to 5.10a.
You probably have topo for the right extension off Mule Train, 2 pitches, 5.9, FA Lawrence Garcia."
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Thanks Nate. I will send you my list of climbs when I get home from work. I have a pretty thick file on Fresno....er...Wamello.
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The route just left of Looking Glass is supposedly a Lawrence Garcia route if you have contact info for him
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Brad Watson and i, Mike Arechiga put up, Whiskey Bill in May 98, ground up, and the same year July 89 we put up, My Pissy Hurts on Hawk Dome, it's the route out of the cave to the right next to the big tree, that goes at 5.8, gound up it's a mixed route 100' 2 bolt anchor, and the thin short seem crack to the right with a small little tree growing out the crack is, O.B.G.Y.N. tr, it's goes at 5.10+.
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Thanks Mike. I will compare this with my notes next week and may have questions.
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Hi Mike. Welcome - and thanks for those details.
Do you know who did the routes "Chicken Slaughter .10c" and "Bird Flu .11a" on Hawk Dome, as noted in your mini guide? FA Dates? Are these yours also?
We have info for all of Jerry's newer routes on the dome.
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Nate-
George Rekouts, Natalia Ermolova, respectively. Both 2007.
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Right, sorry John. You already had those.
Did you get Bachelor Party added to your list, by Ger? Don't think I saw it.
Also, any word on the bolted pitch up the center of the flake, just left of Watership Down?
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Actually, I am sorry for answering a question not directed to me. I got excited.
I will check my list on Monday to see if I have bachelor.
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To the left of Fresno Flats and right of the book is another face route to the top at 4th pitches. I was told it was called Guides on the Snowbank. Anyone know who, when and if it's the correct name?
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Jerry's climb. I'll let him chime in on details when he gets a chance.
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"Guides in a Snowbank". It was named the day after my wife Sigrid, our daughter Lynnea and I did the FA and went back to just climb it for fun. Some of the SYMG guides were well stuck in a snowbank and we pulled them out then they went up and climbed it with us.
We did two other climbs in the area to the right of "Mule Train". Closest we called "Cardiac Bypass" because it bypasses the scary (for those of us with bad knees anyway) boulder moves st the start of "Mule Train". A few moves of 10a at the bottom, bolts, pro and knob tie offs ending at the first pitch of "Mule Train". Further right we did "EZX" 5.8, pro and bolts. Certainly not an X but it crosses an unknown 10+ route forming an X then ending at the same anchor for the unknown route. Both are fun, two ropes needed to rap or continue to the top of "Mule Train" for both.
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morning jerry, is the unknown route to the right of mule train what your talking, second honeymoon?, i have a topo to the routes your talking about on the pix i posted on fresno dome pix check it out let me kown, thanks for the info on the route to the left of fresno flat, need to do that one, cheers mike a.
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Hi Mike- 2 would be "Cardiac Bypass" And 5 is "EZX" crossing "Second Honeymoon" at mid height. There is another unknown route just right going to a small left facing corner. Guess I'm getting old and soft, "Second Honeymoon" seems hard for 10b! You probably noticed that I rebolted it a few years ago, those old non stainless 3/8 mostly popped right off. Do you know who did the FA?
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Hi again Mike- Your route on Hawk Dome "My Pussy Hurts" is 5.8? That is good news I always heard 10+ R so avoided it like anything!
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hi jerry, yes i did, but can not remember right now, i saw the name of the fa's and the routes name in the back the climbing, back in the day, old climbing mag's would post new routes, thanks soooo much for the new bolts on second honeymoon, it's a great line, and sorry about my route on hawk dome, m.p.h's, but i had 3 other bro's climb it, and we all said" yah sure 5.8", i guess we are all just a bunch of sand bagger's :-), the stuff you put up on hawk dome are super fun and i still climb they all the time, really love them, i guess they make up for my sand bagger on hank dome lol :-), happy climbing mike a.
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"2HP" on Hawk is also a politically incorrect name. That hole is rather anatomocally correct and you stick two hands into it sooo..."Two Handed Pussy" seemed like a very obvious name to Albert and I.
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Thanks Jerry. My group climbed Fresno Flats and the other group went up next to us on yours. When they got to the headwall on top he mentioned seeing bolts that went strait up the verticle wall to top out. We trended right so I didn't get to see them and they followed us. Is that an optional ending of yours?
Mike A., MPH and 2PH, Love funny names. I will have to check my topos to see if those are on there. Are they labeled in your spiral guide? I got one from you last year.
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morning, hope youall are enjoying the awesome climbing weather, hey at jerry or anyone who knows what's up with the fixed line between south pillar and whiskey bill, it's been there for years, is it a old albert line???, if so, i would like to finish the route up for albert in honor of my good friend, and to clean up that old line, if it was a albert project, i know for sure he would be cool with me finishing it and putting off his old cord, amy and i went on chicken slaughter on friday, and the move to the second bolt is a little scetchy, if you blow it going to the second clip, you will hit the ground for sure, it's tuff steep slab climbing, but great route,i will have a pix topo for both routes, bird flu as well, will post it tonight on my bucket photos pix, and in my book on those 2 climbs, i gave bad beta, i had them wrong, bird flu is on the left, thanks for the info, happy climbing mike a.
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Cool Mike. Love to see some pics. Never climbed those. No idea on the owner of the rope but it has been there for a looong time. Beyond the time I would say you hold any project.
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That would be pretty cool if that was an Albert Proj., and that you were able to finish it off in style.
Only hung out with him for 1 weekend, but man he was the life of the party.
One cool cat.
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Any luck finding out more about this line yet Mike? Seems a sweet gesture just trying to find out more about it. I'd expect that Albert knew a lot of people and this may take some time.
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morning, no have not heard anything, but i think jerry would be the one to know the most about it, have a great weekend, cheers mike a.
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Anybody climb the neon green corner above some "delicate" flake climbing on the far left of Hawk Dome? Jerry thinks it is an Albert route, but wanted to confirm. He calls it 11a, which seems about right. The corner is awesome, the lower part is kinda sketch. It has an anchor.
Just following up on the "feral" climbs when I am thinking about it.
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(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/greencrack.jpg)
Photo of the first part of the crack, unfortunately didn't get one yet of the best upper green lichen corner.
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(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/unknown.jpg)
This too is a gem - any info on it?
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The last one is Time Lapse, a Jerry A route. Really fun.
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hey john, hope your summer of climbing is a good one, i was wondering if you got any info on 3 routes i saw on the far right side of hawk dome in between hawk dome and echo wall, 2 of them go up a slab going to the top of hawk dome with chain anchors at the start of they, and the right of they a 2 bolt start going up a couple cracks to the top of hawk dome, i asked jerry a couple months ago for info he has on fresno dome, he said he would hook me up in a couple days, but that was a couple months ago, i have e-mail him back, but i have heard nothing from him, i want to have the right info for my new fresno dome book that i am going to have out in a couple months, if you can help thanks a ton, happy climbing mike a.
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Hi Mike
I am away from my main computer until next week so I can give you better info then.
I think one of the climbs you are referring to is called "A Little Old School And A Little New School" - 5.9. Goes up some zig-zaggy cracks with a few bolts here and there. You know about Bird Flu and Chicken Slaughter, right?
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hi john, i put up a new route on the cauliflower wall, it 510cish with 9 bolts to the anchors, 150', the crux move is at the first bolt, the pix you show here the green lichen corner on the left side of hawk dome, do you have a name and a rating for it?, happy climbing mike a.
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Mike
What is the cauliflower wall?
I have never heard a name for the green corner....there it is, "Green Corner" is it's name! I thought it was 11a.
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morning john thanks for the info, i posted a pix and topo of my new route on mountian project of the cauliflower wall, apple jack's , if you get a chance check it out, happy climbing mike a, ps yesterday i checked out a couple routes above chicken slaughter and bird flue, they are pretty fun.
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climbed fri and sat at fresno dome. What a great area. we managed to climb full days and only got hailed on for a bit at the top pitch of whiskey bill on Saturday.
I don't have the spencer guide. We climbed a 5-6 bolt single pitch route on a dark slab just left of watership down. Felt 9 or 10a, then toproped the plumb line with the lone bolt - hard 10. ??
what are the cool looking lines right of whiskey bill on the golden featured face? Thought it was mule train at first, but...
Thanks mike and everyone else for posting beta. Golden eye aręte looks soooo cool.
I've been on a westside dome climbing roll lately. Whoo hoo.
We really wanted to clean up all the trash at the TH campsite, but it seemed it seemed like it would never end, then it rained and all the TP turned even more yucky. :(
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Buggery on High Seas, Easy Wind, Everybody Wants a Piece, Mule Train, High and Mighty and Ghastly Gulch are right of Whiskey Bill. Vary from 5.7 - .10c
That bolted route between Rowsby Woof (the 400' OW crack just right of Looking Glass) and Watership Down shows at 5.8 but I felt a couple 5.9 steps in there. (I don't know the name for it.
Fresno Dome (Wamello) is an awesome place!!!
Tell me about the TH campsite. Is that the Trail Head area just north of where you park? People are always leaving their crap around. I hate it.
How did the trash look as you gain the rocky clearing before descending to the dome? The last time I was there I was climbing by moon light and all the staff from http://www.skylake.com/ were having a party. On the walk in they were partying and on the walk out they were sleeping, pissing, crying or f*cking beside the trail. Trash was everywhere. I was hoping they picked it up.
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Bummer about all the trash. Good on ya for the cleanup effort!
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daveytree, you forgot some of the best routes on the south face, second honeymoon, for the grade could be the best route at fresno dome, and jerry's super fun 2 pitch route, poking popa bear, and last week i put up on the cauliflower wall on top of the south face, apple jack's, i am done with getting all the info i need to put out a new guide book for fresno dome/ wamello dome, i should have the book done and ready for sell by the end of this month. and yes golden eye arete is an awesome climb and all you southern yosemite climbers should check it out as well the other routes amy and i put up this season on the west face area, happy climbing mike a.
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I was going off an old drawn topo which doesn't have all the newer stuff on it. Tks Mike.
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that route left of waterman down better be at least 5.9. :-[
there was no trash in the rocky clearing, just a lot at the trailhead camp site. I don't want to profile, but..... it must have been hunters. there was a clothing tag for a camo shirt, a broken old tent just left there, tons of TP, truck floor mats and a bunch of other random stuff. Only picked up a small percentage of the crap.
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Watership Down looks like a cake walk from the ground. Book says 5.7 but that is a Royal Robins 5.7. I agree it was not in the same park as South Pillar 5.7. When I did it, the book was wet with moss from about 30' above the cave and had to run out the last 70'-80'. Not super hard but thinking of a pendulum into the book gave it some spice for sure. We had 2 x 2 parties and the second party bailed over at the cave to the bolted line to the right; Guides on a Snowbank 5.7-8ish.
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Could definitely see rating 5.9 for something Robbins et al rated 5.7, or many climbs put up long ago as 5.11 that were 5.9... never mind OW. Time and variety of people getting mileage on those lines will tell.
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Susan, I always try to make myself feel better by telling myself 5.10 was the hardest grade for the day so an old school 5.10 could be like a 5.13-14 so 5.7 could be 5.9-.11.
Then I realise I just need to train more and quit drinking beer......
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Hah... I hear yah.. never give up the good life! What would it be worth to train so hard only in the end o have no beer!?!
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hi all, here's a couple routes some dude gave me a couple topos to that he said he put up some time ago, they are in between south pillar and whiskey bill, i have not done them, maybe youall have but thought i would share, happy climbing mike a.
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here's more.
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and one more
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Thanks for sharing Mike.
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John and Susan, it was good to see you today at Fresno Dome. My new route starting in the gully to the right of "Fresno Flats" is called "Fuck The Rough Fire" (the name reflects the smoky conditions at Fresno Dome and in Fresno). It was bolted on lead and done rope solo. This is the reason for the two belay bolts at the start. There is also a bolt stud that I could not use since the threads got stripped during the installation. The climb is about 50 m long and has five lead protection bolts. As you climb higher in this route, it trends to the right to avoid moving into "Fresno Flats", but ends up at the top of the second pitch of "Fresno Flats". With a single 60 rope you can rappel from the end of the route into the gully about 60 feet above the start of the route.
I also found the 5.6 two pitch route to the left of my climb that you told me about. It is quite a good route, especially the first pitch. The short second pitch is a bit dirty with lichen. What is the name of this climb again?
Mark Fletcher
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Good to see you too, Mark and nice job on your new addition.
The climb you are asking about should be to the right of your new pitch as far as I could tell, unless you crossed it somehow. It is an Anderson family climb and called Xenophobia and it is officially 5.8. The one through the left-leaning roof a little uphill from where we last saw you? The only climb left is Fresno Flats AKA Wamello Rising as far as I know.
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Noice Mark! Nice going. What does your route go at. Like the name.
Haven't done Xenophobia either.
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John,
Thank you for the information on "Xenophobia". Yes, going over the roof is probably about 5.8. Getting to the roof and going over it was pretty exciting. The rock on the second pitch needs some cleaning on the holds since they are covered with black lichen. The last bolt on the second pitch is fairly close to the "Fresno Flats" bolt and I accidentally clipped that bolt instead of the "Xenophobia" bolt, but then noticed the problem and when the correct way. I did the second pitch of "Xenophobia" and the last pitch of "Fresno Flats", the 5.0 pitch, linked together with a single 60 m rope.
No, my climb "Fuck The Rough Fire" does not come anywhere close to "Xenophobia". I was going somewhat close to "Fresno Flats" at the second bolt on the second pitch of "Fresno Flats", but when I saw the bolt, I purposely went right to steeper terrain where I put in a bolt and then straight up to the "Fresno Flats" belay.
I had thought that there would be more terrain between my route and "Fresno Flats" to put up an independent belay station, but then realized once I hit the "Fresno Flats" belay that "Fresno Flats" moves right throughout its pitches. I do not think a climber on "Fresno Flats" second pitch will mistakenly go to the bolt on my climb since it is at the same height as the "Fresno Flats" but about 30-40 feet right of the "Fresno Flats" bolt. If someone thinks this bolt location is a problem, I am willing to move the bolt or other action such as changing these bolts to glue-in types so people do not get confused.
BTW, the other bolts I put in are top belay rappel ring bolts on the climbs "Made In The Shade" and "Arch Direct". These two good climbs which I have done many times ended in the middle of nowhere with poor belay protection possibilities. There are cracks near the end, but they are all hollow and flexing. One should be careful when climbing in this area because there are many thin poorly attached flakes above (mostly above) and near the end of the climb. My rope caught one and pulled off a 2 foot diameter section last week.
Mark
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Davey,
It goes at about 5.6 or possibly 5.7. I did it on lead without pre-inspection so I had no idea from the bottom what it would be. Let's do it and "Xenophobia" sometime. "Xenophobia" is a really nice climb and takes a very interesting and not obvious from the bottom line on the first pitch. Got your message and I also will be out of the country for a few weeks but back in October.
Mark
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Does anyone know any details about the route to the left of Looking Glass? Gorgeous rock on the first pitch.
Did Friction Dandy. Sheesh! Pretty much a free solo.
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Hopefully your topos will correct what to expect for "Friction Dandy". Both Spencer's original topo and Mike's topo for this climb show the bolts approximately equally spaced. They are not equally spaced as you noticed. There is a crack in the upper section, but it is not in the easiest climbing. I have tried it on lead, but gave up near the second bolt, down climbed to the first bolt, and was lowered off. Did you you the crack out on the right on the second part for protection? I only saw one possible good location for a nut in this crack.
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Does anyone know what the bolted climb is just to the left of Watership Down? I did the first pitch, felt like a 5.7. Looked like the climb continued up the buttress, but I didn't go further
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Mark-
Friction Dandy was a surprisingly long 180' pitch and the last bolt was well below halfway up at about 70-80'. I saw the crack and felt that from the looks of it from below it looked harder to get to and was probably flared and might not have good gear. Instead I took the direct and more featured line a little to the left of it resulting in about a 100' runout. Sue inspected the crack on the second and found some iffy placements. I forgot to view it myself on the way back down. I would honestly recommend doing the runout over the steeper climbing to the crack with the crappy gear. Why increase the odds of falling for a mediocre placement?
Wingnut-
I too would like to know more about the climb left of Watership Down. From the anchor you can get to and continue up Rowsby Woof apparently.
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Actually, I found a couple of openings in that crack on Friction Dandy that at close inspection seems would take gear. Green and yellow aliens I thought. Maybe a nut. Would I want to fall on that gear? Not so much, but I think one placement in particular midway or higher up in that crack was really ok. Personally, if I had to climb that first pitch, I would rather take the path of least resistance most the way except head towards the crack at one or two points for protection, then back left of it again over mellower ground than have climbed from the last bolt to the anchor with that much run out.
Also, though, yeah, much of that crack looks pretty nil for gear....
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/DSCN0271_resized.jpg)
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Gotta have your head on for Friction Daddy.
The bolted route left of of Watership Down is only one pitch to the anchors. Not sure who put it up. I have done it then moved up left on Rowsby. Rowsby is a deeeep ow that you can't reach far enough in. You climb mainly the face and path of least resistance. Micro cracks and chickenheads for gear and anchors. The ledge toward the top gives you options for how you want to top out. Cruiser route depending g on your top out.
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Good to see you again Mark! Looked like you were having fun. Definitely feeling the name of your new line!
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Does anyone know if the route on the short/narrow buttress between South Pillar and the Whiskey Bill area is complete? It looks like a project. There is some weird rope extension off of the anchor and some bolts below but unclear as to where the line starts. I would be interested in any info on it. Thanks!
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Does anyone know anything about the two crack climbs in the beautiful yellow rock on the true summit of Hawk Dome facing Echo Wall? One is a steep handcrack through a roof (about 10d) and the other is a short offwidth to a handcrack (about 10a). Both have anchors. I remember someone mentioning them somewhere but I can't figure out where. There are more bolts than usual at the top of the roof climb so they might be only topropes? Any info is appreciated. Thanks!
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You may be talking about the ones I sent you pics of. If so, I remember there being atleast one set, possibly two, of anchors. I recall three climbs. They all started in the gully except the OW seems to be a variation of the hand crack once you gain the slanted ledge area about half way up. One is the handcrack, then the off-width which I remembered to share a set of anchors on a flat 4'x4' ledge. The anchors, if I remember right, were on the floor of the ledge and needed webbing to avoid rope rub. The third climb was to the right and followed an arete for to most of the climb. When climbing the arete, your back was facing down the gully. I can't recall if there were anchors for this thrird one or we used natural pro for the anchors. I remember it being in the 5.7-5.9 range.
I have only climbed them on TR when guiding a high school camp group. We had everyone do Eraser Head routes, moved over to these three and then finished on Echo Wall. To set up for the arete we would climb up from the notch between Hawk and Eraser Head and step over a block to set the anchor. Then I would jump across, 3'-4', to the ledge to set a TR on the anchor for the cracks and wrap down.
There is another route to the left of these in the 5.6-5.8 range, 70'-80' (If memory serves me). I am sure I didn't FA it. It starts in the the brush and heads up a few moves to an easy seam that goes up and left and then goes right toward the top having a book on your right. There are bolts for an anchor which I first found when looking to rap off the top down into the gully. This set of bolts are not on the true summit but the right side of the normal top out for the multi-pitch climbs. Not sure if they were placed as anchors or to rap off. From their position they could be the top of a multi-pitch route on Hawk and nothing to do with the crack/seam since there is serious rope drag when pulling the rope from the gully because you go around a corner. Thought my rope was stuck a few times and had to back way up to Echo to get some movement. It would need a different set of of bolts in order to TR this route because of rope drag.
I have no idea who put in any of these routes.
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DaveyTree-
I thought it was you who mentioned those climbs but couldn't figure out where it was discussed.
I counted two close-to-each-other anchors consisting of four hangers for the steep climbs and one for the OW to handcrack?
I suspect that the climb you did to the left to be a "lost' route called Harlot-5.6. It was in the Spencer Guide in the FA section only I believe. It was pretty well described in the Robbins Guide. You may want to confirm this since you have actually climbed it. It was a vague description but good enough to confirm I think. The anchors that don't appear to have anything to do with the route I believe are rap anchors for one of JA's routes. I kinda remember a handful of them are rap-in type routes but I am not in front of my info so can't look them up.
Thanks for chiming in. Let me know if you hear any more about these, they are pretty fun, right?
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When you get the description, post it up. And....yes, those routes are a good time. I will check my books and info to see if I have anythhing when I get a chance.
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Here is the description from the Robbins Guide:
Harlot 5.6 Erb, Sam, Fred (Clean) -
This route starts just above the steepest part of the gulley on the right side of Hawk Tower.
The 1st pitch climbs straight up towards a bombay chimney passing this on the left. Belay from nobs with sling anchors.
#2. Straight up uprotected 5.6 friction.
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Not sure what a "Bombay" chimney is but it doesn't sound like like the route
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Frankly, this matches better except for the 5.6 part. Exactly at "the top of the steepest part of the gulley". It is "Freebird-5.8" through here. Hard to tell in this photo but I think it starts in the left-facing flake on the right side of the shot. Obvious where to start when in front of it.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/DSCN0417_resized.jpg)
Here is the best photo I have for the line I think you did drawn in blue. The chimney is right in front of the arrow and not very "chimneyish" but more of a wide slot along the base of the tower.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/hawk2323_resized.jpg)
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Not sure what a "Bombay" chimney is but it doesn't sound like like the route
Well that sounds like a cry for help, if ever I heard one. ;)
Someone needs to take him on a route with a Bombay.
Open the pod bay doors Hal!!!
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Sounds like a good question, what's a bombay chimney, and so I searched a second and found an answer I like:
Calirado on Mountain Project explains:
(http://www.mountainproject.com/u/calirado//106196478)Oct 23, 2009
"A bomb bay chimney refers to an open-ended bottom that threatens to drop you like a bomb. It derives from old bomber planes where the bomb bay doors open, creating a gaping void."
But if you only meant, what's a bombay chimney at this particular crag at Fresno Dome, I don't for sure see it. We did climb that small triangular shaped chimney which might be what is meant as bombay.
We've called Cage Match a bombay chimney, that's up at Gray Eagle left side of the gully rappel line, as an example.
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I know what a bomb bay chimney is but not a Bombay chimney. It may be the same as a Mumbai chimney.
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Oops. I should have wrote bomb bay chimney. Must have been thinking of lunch. Vindaloo, palek paneer, naan.... Oooh palek paneer could be a good name for a mossy wide climb.
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(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/10399516_1159209713333_3631936_n_resized.jpg)
Example - Jeff starting out on pitch 2 of Cage Match and climbing towards the entry of the bomb bay-ish chimney
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Naan naan, that looks delicious! 8)
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Hi Jonh, if your climbing at Fresno Dome maybe look me up, i am over climbing by myself :-(, happy climbing Mike A.
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Hi Jonh, if your climbing at Fresno Dome maybe look me up, i am over climbing by myself :-(, happy climbing Mike A.
Sure thing, Mike. We haven't been there in a while but hope to get back soon.
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The blue line is the one I was referring to. Have not done the chimney.
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It's a really short little chim
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Any guesses on the locations of these two? The location of Torn and Frayed sounds a lot like South Pillar but the description seems like a different path or climb. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Torn and Frayed-5.8
FA: Simon King, Jack Forsythe 6/1976
“This short, four-pitch climb was done by Jack Forsythe and me in June. It lies on the right side of a prominent pillar a few hundred feet right of the Beckey-Stuart route. Three obvious pitches lead to a huge ledge from where easy face-climbing leads right, then up to the unroping spot.” NCCS II, F8.
Simon King, Unaffliated
AAj 1976-Issue 2
Blue Connection-5.8-
FA: Simon King, Jack Forsythe 6/1976
“This one-pitch route starts 50 feet to the right of Torn and Frayed and involves an easy ramp followed by a tricky face move and ending with an unprotected water groove. Jack Forsythe and I made the first ascent in June.” NCCS I, F8.
Simon King, Unaffiliated
AAj 1976-Issue 2
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Updated the mystery route and missing information list in the first post of this thread. If I missed something give me a heads up.
Contact me directly at john@southernyosemiteclimbing.com or publicly here.
Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks!!
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Which route is the Beckey-Stuart route it refers to?
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Buzzard Book
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Sounds pretty similar to South Pillar and first pitch of Whiskey Bill which starts on that ramp.
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Sounds pretty similar to South Pillar and first pitch of Whiskey Bill which starts on that ramp.
I agree, but it's just too darned vague to really know for sure. The "prominent pillar" matches South Pillar for sure but the "Beckey Route" is actually the left side of South Pillar so it is well within a "few hundred feet". The next "pillar" would suggest the Watership Down area. If that was the case then Fresno Flats may actually be "Blue Connection" since it doesn't have a name attached to it and may had been a single pitch route originally. Maybe Mike A. could comment on that since he saw it in it's original state.
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Re-reading it makes me think it really really matches Watership Down and Fresno Flats.
"short"-sure, why not, check
"four pitch"-check"
"huge ledge"-check
"face climbing right"-check
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That does sound a bit like Watership Down but Watership is 250 yards from Buzzard Book. Hmmmmm
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Since there's been general interest in early history of the Hnterlands, as Royal called them, here is a new article of mine recalling a bit about it:
http://adventuresportsjournal.com/royal-robbins-2/
Note to Susan and John: I surfed around the site and couldn't find a "general interest" thread so I posted it here. Please move it if I missed a better place for it to land.
Thanks,
Doug
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Very nice. A number of us have that feeling don't we? That climbing may have saved us. Even if in the end it could be our undoing.
I like that Royal tried to save it, climbing, right back, and give back, though I always love the stories of Harding too. I wonder if at the time it really felt they were at such odds as history paints. It sure seems so but also as if that opposition relaxed in the end?
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Thanks for sharing, Doug I enjoyed that very much. We hope you write more about those Rockcraft days. I think you enjoyed the kid in a candy store feeling back then as many of us do now.
You can start a topic in the General Category if what you wish to share is not area-specific.
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Good read. Thanks Doug. Hard to beat Wamello. Love the place. Hope you can make Lunesta Fiesta this year. Should be a great time.
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In reading those descriptions again, Torn and Frayed really sounds like S.P. Could Blue Connection be up that area between SP. and WB that is always hard to draw on topos? It seems about that far from SP.
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I know, kinda keeps sounding more and more so. I think the 5.8 "Plan B" is actually "Blue Connection" since it matches perfectly in every way including the runnel. Hard to confirm though without being able to contact all involved.
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What about Water Music? Show to be II 5.8 FA 8/78 by Kammerlander and Higgins on the west face of FD.It is listed before Kammerlander in the first ascent section of the Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs by Spencer's.From the order is would seem to be left of Kammerlander but it is not shown on any of the tops and no description is given.
Any ideas?
The 3 most right routes on Echo Wall have a water theme going. Prob between Pipeline and Kammerlander?
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Water Music was reported as "a little left of the dead tree leaning against the West Face", is left of Kammerlander and has one bolt. There still is a dead tree that was probably leaning against the face right in front of Kammerlander and to the left of that is a flared crack with two pins and an anchor on it. Might have a bolt if I remember correctly (a rarely reliable method). This could be Water Music but looks very un-Higgins-like due to how Higgins told me he would rarely leave pins as gear and the pitch is really short. I also know exceptions to the first statement like the pin anchor of "Havana Ball" on Tempest Dome. I never tried to climb it (the climb immediately left of Kammerlander) but it looks more devious than most 5.8's I have seen. Put it on the list of obscurities someone needs to climb!
Jerry Anderson said he thinks his climb "Are You A Virgin" is a Higgins "solo" as he called it and is a little left of Kammerlander and also left of Jerry's other route "Time Lapse". This is the most likely line of Water Music in my opinion. Jerry also called his line 5.8 but I don't know if he found or replaced/integrated an old bolt.
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Yesterday was at Hawk Dome and I added bolts to, My Pissy Hurts, since climbers have said its was a little run out, it has 10 bolts on it now to the anchors I am hoping more people will climb it and enjoy it 😊, and I started putting lead bolts on the tr to the right of My Pissy Hurts, OB/GYN and worked on a new route at the bottom of the ramp at Hawk Dome, still a little bit of snow blocking the trainhead so I hiked up from the Hawk Dome trail to get to the Dome, hope some of you climbers out there start climbing My Pissy Hurts this season, happy climbing Mike A.
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John, I spied that crack with the pins. The crack looks about 5.8 but the face getting up to it definitely looks harder. That seems about the right spot. Haven't climbed it yet.
Mike, I figured the road would still be blocked. That one area on that curve holds snow so much longer than the rest. Thanks for the updates. Look forward to trying your hurt pissy.
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After a closer search this last weekend I have a new theory on Water Music. I believe that the Jerry A. route, "Are You A Virgin" is probably the retro-bolted version of Water Music. There are two old bolts as reported by Higgins still in the current version, one at the start and one chopped stud below Jerry's anchor, possibly the original one-bolt anchor. It is 5.8, left of the old dead tree, and Jerry specifically said he thinks his line is "an old Higgins "solo"", or in other words, underbolted by his own standards. The name suggests he has the same suspicion too.
Also, there is an uncharacteristic runout to the anchor where I am pretty sure Jerry probably found a bolt, replaced it and ceased bolting for the rest of the way. This last bolt is pretty much the crux of the pitch and the best point to protect if there were one. The rest of the route to the summit could have been easily done without bolting.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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After re-reading the AAJ reporting of Water Music and Kammerlander I noticed I was off on the bolt count. I thought there was two but there was only one. Here is the AAJ report for issue 1 for 1979:
“Kammerlander” and “Water Music,” Fresno Dome. Ruprecht Kammerlander and I made two new routes on Fresno Dome on August 14 and 15, neither of which represents the culmination of Ruprecht’s climbing, yet they were his last first ascents before his recent death in a motorcycle accident. I have named the better after him and the other after the music we talked about on the climb. Kammerlander begins just right of a dead tree which has fallen against the west face. It is F10 on the second pitch if the most direct line is taken up the headwalls protected by bolts. NCCS II, F10. Water Music starts a little left of the dead tree. One bolt protects the first pitch. NCCS II, F8. Both climbs range over colorful, undulating rock.
Thomas Higgins
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Going to have to look at them closer now.
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Reply to an old thread - I was climbing Time Lapse today on the West Face-- to the right of Time Lapse there is a very old bolt partially pulled out, - right next to it someone added a "newer" bolt beside it (the newer bolt looks at least 10-15 years old). This bolt leads into a crack with a pin and then up a pretty obvious weakness in the rock. Could this be Water Music? Seems like an obvious route. The bolt would match the age of the Water music FA.
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The crack you are describing has two pins and an anchor higher up too. I haven't figured that one out either but I am confident it isn't Water Music, it is a little further right of that and still has it's original bolt in it.
Water Music also has what I am calling an "alternate start" which is a dozen feet or so to the right and runs you right into WM very quickly. It also added a single bolt belay to WM higher up. I say added because the bolt of the single bolt belay matches the alt start bolt.
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Very interesting. I like a good mystery!
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Anyone climbed or know anything about this route?
To the left of South Pillar about 20'-30' is a left facing book about 100' tall that melts into the pillar. Left of that another 15'-20' is a single bolt protecting a couple face moves into a crack. The crack peters out about 60'-70' up into a ramp with a block on the left. Possibly a second bolt about 100' up (saw some bling) toward the top of the ramp but couldn't be sure it wasn't a glare off the rock. Above this is a sea of chicken heads which would head up 20'-30' left of South Pillar line and most likely belay with P1 of South Pillar.
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Hi DaveyTree,
Are you maybe talking about Buzzard Book (left facing book) and Dr. No (the block on the left of the ramp)?
I have climbed Dr. No but nothing else over there, if that's what you're describing.
-James
There's a photo in MikeA's guidebook, don't know if it's kosher to share a squizz of it.
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T's for the reply but not same area. Buzzard Book is further left. From this bolt you could toss a water bottle to people at the base of South Pillar.