Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => Fresno Dome Area => Topic started by: mike a on December 01, 2013, 07:13:02 pm
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hi all, hope you guy's had a great thanksgiving weekend, amy and i put up a new route at the west face area to the left of golden showers, it goes at 5.10a, 6 clips with a 2 bolt anchors at about 70' or so, on gold and red rock with classic shuteye jug plates, we did it ground up with my new bosch, i think it's super fun climb on pretty steep rock, maybe 3 stars, i am not hard core like you all with your hand drilling, i think if i hand drilled one route i think it would give me carpal-tunnel on my wrist :-), and my climbing career would be over!!! it was super fun putting up a new route after 13 years or so of not putting up routes outside, if anyone wants a look see on the route we put up, i will post some pix and topo on it, i will post it on the bucketphoto link here on the fresno dome area where i have posted topos and pix in the past, happy climbing mike a.
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Nice job Mike and thanks for sharing your route. Looking forward to hearing the name.
If you invested in a new Bosch it sounds like you are back in business putting up routes?
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aren't the new litheon ion ones so light compared to the old ones?!
nice job. pics are always worthy!
I still need to get out to Fresno Dome.
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Good on ya Mike - three stars is great! Using a 3-, 4-, or 5-star system. I'll keep checking back for your photos on Photobucket.
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hi, i think i post it on photobucket on the faceook part of it.
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http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/Mike_Arechiga/media/179751_10200742974469299_1109615006_n1_zps37d290d7.jpg.html?#/user/Mike_Arechiga/media/179751_10200742974469299_1109615006_n1_zps37d290d7.jpg.html?&_suid=1372182134755040274759107947433 (http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/Mike_Arechiga/media/179751_10200742974469299_1109615006_n1_zps37d290d7.jpg.html?#/user/Mike_Arechiga/media/179751_10200742974469299_1109615006_n1_zps37d290d7.jpg.html?&_suid=1372182134755040274759107947433)
Lots of goods at your link above, Mike, but the Facebook category was empty just now. Can't say it enough, how great that photo of the beaks is.
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hi all, maybe john's new attachment option will work, ???
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Amy and i put up another new route on gold finger wall at the west face area at fresno dome, it's a fun arete i think it's a 5.10c it's to the right of golden showers, the road was a little icy but no worries getting to the trail to hawk dome, still another week of sunny weather to climbup there.
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Nice Mike. We were wondering about Fresno Dome being accessible, so that is good to know.
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hi all, so amy and i last weekend put up another fun route at the gold finger wall area, we are calling it dr. no 5.7 crack, it's a fun clean crack to the right of golden eye arete, if you want to see what we be doing there the last few weeks i post all the new stuff on s.t., mountian project, and rockclimbing.com, and my fb, if the weather stays as is, we are going to put up some new stuff to the right of gold finger wall, which is the west side of south pillar, we are going to call it family guy wall, gigity gigity!!! this wall looks really really good, if youall get a chance and got some free time on your hands come climb what we already got set up, i think you will have fun on them, i hope we do not get the chance to put up new stuff with a weather change and the sierra gets a ton of snow and blocks the road until the new season starts, happy climbing mike a.
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Thanks Mike. Have you had any company out there?
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Sorry Mike....not so new at all.......We used to climb that to get to the anchors of Golden Showers......We did not record it as we thought it had been done already.
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ok homie i saw your posting on summit post about your route which i like and btw, sweet lycra bro, but what route are you talking about to access it to climb g.s.???, if it's the the crack i am calling dr.no, why would climb that to get to g.s. when onyx is closer to your anchors??? and if you are saying you did it by way of what i am calling thunderbolt, and on thunderbolt the first pro (which would be a little scary) would have been about 45/50 feet off the ground on a 70/75 foot route, wouldn't you be a good enough climb to have done g.s. ground up???
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hey john, no we saw no other climbers in the last few months at fresno dome just amy and i and us putting up" tom slater routes" lol :-), so don't tell me about your new crag because i will go out there and bolt your route after you put it up and say "i got the first access" and call it a california FA, lol :-). people are super fun :-(, happy climbing cheers mike a.
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Hi Mike and thanks for the kind words.
I did not say anything about said Thunderbolt Route.
All I said was Bill Edmund and I did climb that little crack to gain the anchors to Golden Showers.
That is what happened. I am not trying to diss you or to rain on your parade.
I am not lying.
I also stated that it was such an obvious line that it had to have been climbed already.
Perhaps by Mark Spencer or someone?
That is why WE did not report it either.
And NO, we were not good enough then to do that Ground Up.
If you want to Claim that as an FA....then be my guest!
Cheers!!
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hi Gerard, what you said in your first e-mail was " sorry mike... not so new at all", and i did not see where you stated bill edmund did blah blah.... this was the obvious line...., anything like that, maybe you should read your first reply to see what exactly you said. what i see when i have climbed at the gold finger wall is that the obvious line to get to the g.s. anchors would be climbing onyz not dr. no, but thanks for your input & beta. it's good to have input from climbers who have done new stuff out at southern yosemite area. it's just in the future, if you are going to reply on new stuff being putting up(which is cool and helpful) i think you should never start with "sorry mike your a wanker not sooo new at all", i think that leads to a pissing match!!!,that we should save for super topo's forum :-) lol, you're a climber, you know what i mean!!!, putting up a new route whether ground up, top down etc. etc. etc. is a lot of hard work and bling bling out of ones pocket, so one feels some passion to it all :-), so i am not trying to be a jerk, but would like to make sure i do not give other climbers bad beta. As you have seen, for years I have never had any problem on giving out info on new routes and new climbing areas at the southern yosemite area, which i think brings up the big problem with info in the first place, like what is stated in the old spencer book "some of the climbers active in the area neglected to record their ascents, some closely guarded their information in an effort to keep the area secret. unforturetely, this practice resulted in some climbs receiving multiple first ascents" so may be this is a classic case of what spencer was talking about, once again thanks you your info, maybe be i will see you up there and we can have a beer over this and take notes, happy climbing cheers mike a.
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Beckey probably flew in on a Pterodactyl and beat us all to it.
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There is the most-interesting description of "Buzzard Book" in the old "Climber's Guide To Fresno Hinterlands" by Royal Robbins that I want to throw into this discussion that might suggest that this last crack may have been named already.
The first pitch description states..
"The first pitch starts 15' right of sigmoidescape goes up 15 feet and then right 15' into the corner which is jammed to a cove like a belay."
I mean, what is not to love about a name like "Sigmoidescape"?! There is no other reference to this name that I have spotted but there is a bunch of really odd typos and inconsistencies in that guide.
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hey john, if your talking about the crack i am calling, dr. no, as far as i am conserned, i put the anchors in and have showed the first topo to it, so i got the california FA on it, if you look on page 50 on the spencer guide book, it does show a short little crack in the middle of the alcove, but thats all, no info, no rating, no name, no nothing, and buzzard book was put up by beckey which is to the far right of dr.no and onyx is a robbens route which it the route closer to dr. no and dr. no ends 70' up or so to slab face climbing the next 300' or so to the top in the middle of gold finger and south pillar which we are going to finish to the top when the season opens once again, so i main piont here again is if one does not have the documentation to back up what's been put up as a new route or climbed a new route i think it's all a bunch of blah blah blah, he said she said....., i know it's only a 5.7 and sure maybe someone as climbed it before, but to date i am the only one to record an ascent on dr. no, who's real got any proof that i did not climb it first???, i guess it's the same with neptune's net 5.7 on runnel vision, where one group claims the fa and another group said they got the fa, so who really got the fa??? slater has a dated pix so he's got the fa and documentation to say his group was there first???, so isn't possesion 2/3th of the law???, so that's my thought on this once again, i am psyched on the next time i am writing here on new routes at fresno dome, it will be just that!!! a repot of the new stuff, with rating and topos of the cool new stuff amy and one have put up, happy climbing arechiga.
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Hi Mike
The climb or whatever Sigmoidescape is currently seems to be too vague a reference to be of any value but it still is something. Most climb information leads start with some odd reference like this one and sometimes reveal a much more detailed history.
Personally, I appreciate it when climbs like this at least get a name!
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Places with long climbing histories, I always assume it all has been climbed before I got there. I like to list my ascent as PFA (Possible FA). I have several routes been renamed later when the real FA claimed it. Either way it it is documented for someone to reference it in the future to dog or recommend to others. And it is cool to find out who it was that eyed that sweet line like I did.
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Great attitude on respecting the history of a place DaveyTree. Spread it around.
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this last weekend amy and i put up a couple new routes on family guy wall, at wamello/ fresno dome, gigady-gigady 5.7 and bitch stewie 5.11d/12a, i will post pic and topos of them on my fb, happy climbing mike a.
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Nice! Now what about those of us not on Facebook (or more likely all three of us)? Could you post some photos here? Thanks.
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morning john, i will see what i can do, if that does not work i will e-mail what we got going on at the family guy wall and the gold finger wall as well, happy climbing mike a.
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Thanks Mike, looking forward to it. Giggidy.
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Where is Family Guy Wall? Never heard of a wall at Wamello by that name.
Will be there Fri-Sun this weekend.
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morning daveytree, it's the left side of south pillar to the right of buzzard book, i will be up there sat noonish, i will park at the trailhead parking lot i have a black tacoma with black camper shell, not sure where we will start climbing, but i will be around, i got some topos and pix of the new stuff at fresno dome on mountain project if you want to see what we been doing, happy climbing mike a.
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Missed you last weekend Mike. I was camped Thurs night - Sun at the Dome lot. Got in a lot of climbing and scouting. I saw some of your new lines. Look pretty sick. Didn't get a chance to try them yet.
Did you put up that new route on the rt side of the descent trail in the trees before you even reach Zippa-De? It goes past 2 bolts on face to a ledge and crack and up to anchors. About 40'.
Anyone ever climb Watership Down. Spencer's says 5.7 and looks easy but it is a Royal Robbins' 5.7. I read later previous people liebacked it but I climbed it more like a chimney in a lot of places because it was so deep. Cool cave for a sitting shaded first belay on a 70m. Made ledge on pitch 2 but had to runout the top 60-70' due to the corner of the book being wet and caked with moss.
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so if you go to fresno dome, do not climb on gold finger wall, the peregrine falcons are nesting right behind thunderbolt with a couple eggs, but family guy wall is far enough away not to bug them, they should be none with raising the baby chicks by the end of july, heads up!
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Good info, mike. Thanks.
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heres amy and i when we put up gigidy-gigidy 5.7 on the family guy wall.
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hi all,jerry gave me a ton of topos and info for fresno dome and new routes he has put up the last couple years, this new crag enchented wall looks super fun, so before the weather slams us i am going up there tomorrow to check it out, i am hoping this will be the last time i go to southern yosemite for the year, i will share pix of the routes when i get back, happy climbing mike a.
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Looks fun Mike. Hope you have a great day out there.
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hi all, just got back from fresno dome, yesterday i checked out the enchanted rock below fresno dome at to the climbers left of willow wall, the place has about 18 fun little routes in the area the main wall is about 90' tall with all the routes hard moves at the start, lots of slab climbing, but at the finish of the climbs having a fun steepper head wall to the anchors, at the bottom of the main wall is a fun short ow climb with a two bold anchor 45' and at the top of the main wall is the best route of the bunch a 45' steep route on a separate little wall same name as the climb, more core 11b, it was great to get up there ahead of the weather, and at the base of the more core wall i found a #1 camolot, first thought was "sweet booty" :-), but thinking of it i bet it must be someones pro from either jerry or grahm or someone like that, bummer no free #1 camolot for mike a. :-( no booty!!!, made a couple calls and it turns out to be grahm's pro, happy climbing mike a.
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my friend darin checks out more core.
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mike a.on unnamed fur 5.8
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topo to enchanted rock