Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => Balloon Dome Area => Topic started by: John on March 08, 2013, 09:48:56 pm
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(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1000974_zpse63a1de7.jpg)
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/IMG_3957_zpse1ab1d47.jpg)
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(http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/soyos/Balloon_Rside_5887_ov.jpg)
Tiny numbers in yellow and purple are some of the pitches climbed with Bob and Jay in May 2012.
All were 5.9 or easier, except the purple between 0 and 1 which had a 5.10 section.
Bob and Dan previously climbed the big ramp from center to upper left (out of frame), then on to the summit in 2011.
Many of the big corners above our high points are blank (you couldn't even nail them).
We hope to return this spring, to see if we can find more climbable stuff.
We'll post up here when we have some more definite plans, in case anyone is interested in joining.
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Beautiful. Thanks for sharing that Clint.
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Wow, ditto: Beautiful, and thanks for sharing! So many lines! Ratings or other significant details? The scroll bar is a very nice tool under your photo.
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(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd180/larsjohnson50/SoYo/Bdome_1.jpg)
Took this shot a few years ago. Glad to see some of you are getting after it.
lars
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BIG WALL BOOM! What did team graham complete down there a few years ago?
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I don't know what Team Graham is.
Here's an overlay showing the routes we know of on the lower wall (and a few on the upper wall).
(http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/soyos/BalloonWF_ov.jpg)
We are going there May 16-19.
Bob, me, Mike A, and Aaron so far.
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Exciting Clint!
thx for the pic!
I'm half tempted to hike in there just to help hump loads. Will have to check calendar and objectives on my agenda.
Buffoon Dome looks almost reasonable at that rating.
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Looks like the left shoulder pictured above has a lot of slab wooded hiking options and maybe why no connecting line indicated between Into the Pit and the Netherworld lines?
Does the Crucible line go up farther as indicated by the arrow? I wonder to where.
Buffoon Dome is the only known distinct route bottom-to-top so far? It is appealing along the line of a Royal Arches route, but I wonder how much longer it might take.
Is there help needed packing in at this point? I'm sure when packing out it would be...
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There's a 2008 thread on supertopo with photos of Into The Pit and the terrain connecting to Netherworld:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/571968/know-where-this-is
(http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk319/blairdixson/00000.jpg)
(http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk319/blairdixson/Bucket.jpg)
enlarged - climbers on dike, Into the Pit
There's no help needed for packing stuff in - we already have gear cached there.
We can pack it out, too.
Just open if you have time / interest in exploring there.
The few/closed crack systems, poison oak, and 3000' gain to hike out will limit interest!
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Susan,
Look up this link to the AAJ archives, 2007 to see a better photo topo of the upper northwest corner and to read more about The Crucible.
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/2007/pg128-160_L48_aaj2007.pdf#search=%22balloon%20dome%22
Here, I'll paste in Brandon Thau's write up (though I may get in copyright trouble):
"Balloon Dome, various ascents.
The Crucible (IV 5.11 A1). Dave Nettle and I started this route in late October 2005 and retreated from the bivy ledge atop pitch five, due to an early winter
storm. Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder, and I completed the remaining pitches during the following June in extreme heat. The route follows a natural line from
the San Joaquin River up to the bushy ledge that divides Balloon Dome in half. This line follows a prominent drainage originating from the middle section of the
dome, hence slippery rock from pitch three onward. The climb starts in a left-facing dihedral that is below and right of two parallel, splitter, wide cracks three pitches
up. The route then follows the left parallel crack (5.11 fuzzy off-width). Super-slick rock leads up to the base of a right-facing dihedral, which is on the skyline when viewing the route from the river. This dihedral is a mixture of thin A1 and 5.11a climbing for 180'. One more 200' pitch
ends the technical climbing, and 3rd and 4th class bushwhacking is required to get to the base
of the upper dome.
Northwest Ramp (5.10). This route follows the prominent right-leaning ramp up the
northwest face of upper Balloon Dome. Four 200' pitches reach the end of the ramp, then
two-and-a-half more lead up steep dihedrals to the summit. Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder and
I completed this in June.
Beckey’s Leaning Tower Route – Free Dike Variation (IV 5.11+). This follows the excellent
Fred Beckey route to the top of the spire that leans against the east face of upper Balloon
Dome. From the top of the spire, rappel 50' and belay in the notch from two bolts. Instead of
climbing the A3 cracks above the notch, follow the dike that heads left and clip one bolt. Gain
the intersecting dike that heads right and clip seven more bolts to the belay (5.11+). Two more
pitches lead to the top. Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder, and I completed this in June."
Sean and Jake Jones likely did the first route from the river to the top, linking Into The Pit and Netherworld. Thau told me he was bummed Sean beat him to it. Don't know why the separate route names, but it sounds like a lot of 3rd and 4th class in between. Here's a link to his write up from 2006:
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/2006/148_Lower48_aaj2006.pdf#search=%22balloon%20dome%22
Boy, wish I could make it down (and up) there, but it's not looking good for me. Not much left to climb in that canyon.
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Thanks, Nate.
Here's an aerial photo overlay which gives another view:
(http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/soyos/aerial_Cooper.jpg)
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This is a really neat perspective, Clint. It even includes the 1,400' Cat Wall in the lower right.
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Blowing mind.... Great links and input! At work so will have to read more later. That shot showing the river is extremely helpful. Cannot see the river at all from the usual vantage points. Sure explains a lot.
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Thanks, Nate - I added a label for Cat Wall.
Susan, yes - aerial gives you so many options for seeing things that you can't see in the same way from the ground.
Alexander is an old climbing pal who is also a good photographer and was doing some flying a few years back.
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Always nice to have a friend with an airplane!
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wow, Cat wall looks prime!
we need an xrez camera. :)
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Confluence Dome?
Isn't that the dome we discussed a couple of years ago, Nate? You know, the "Secret" one? Sure matches my photos but the aerial angle looks a little off.
I don't dare post my photos since I understand at least one person I know of may be bummed about it. Still true?
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No, not the same dome.
I know nothing. What was the question?
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"None of Yer Damn Business" Dome.
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How it this for a bummer of a smudge on my lens!
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1030620_zpsf4cdb345.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1030620_zpsf4cdb345.jpg.html)
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Yeah, that smudge is a bummer.
Confluence Dome is where 2 forks of the San Joaquin come together.
It's even more difficult to access than Balloon Dome.
Last May, Dan and Ford tried to reach it by using the approach marked, but then hiking south in the forest on the east side of the river.
They were stopped by too much poison oak!!
It's marked at 4684' in this topo map:
(http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/soyos/BDapproach_map.JPG)
(http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/soyos/Confluence_DSCF5982.jpg)
Confluence Dome
It looks like a fun ridge scramble after reaching the south end of Balloon Dome.
If you could easily float down the San Joaquin, it looks like you could do some cool climbs up it from the river.
I have a good shot of the dome behind it, too, but that one would be accessed from above using a different road.
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Nunya Dome
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Neat pic, Clint.
Çonfluence Dome could be accessed much more easily from the South Fork Trail. Grahm and Leo hiked down there, said it was straightforward, and found a fisherman's camp with old pots and lawn chairs, I believe. Stuff folks hauled down but didn't want to hike out. Anyhow, the two brought float tubes, with hopes of going downriver all the way to Mammoth Pool over the course of 2 or 3 days. Turned out to be very difficult and slow going and then a storm came in. The slept in a cave, left most the gear, and hiked out in heavy rain. Upon returning to retrieve gear a month or so later, much of it was mauled by bears. Leo said he's never seen so much bear sign as along the river down there.
Then there are Sean's stories about the mountain lions up river, and sleeping in portaledges with guns, out of fear.
Any signs of the abundant wildlife for you guys?
The big dome downriver, whatever ya'll want to call it, has been climbed plenty for years. :-X
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Ya know, the Low Sierra is fascinating. Many remote canyons to explore.
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Confluence Dome and Dome Behind Confluence Dome from the South Fork Trail:
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/P1010928_zps0958326e.jpg) (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/jhgodar/media/Public%20Pics/P1010928_zps0958326e.jpg.html)
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Good point, Nate - the South Fork Trail ends a lot closer to Confluence Dome.
There is also the problem of usually only being able to cross the river in low water / fall.
We saw a few bear poops, some fisherman junk, and a bear also opened Bob's metal cache "can" (this resulted in a wet rope).
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Nice to see Confluence Domes Clint. I took a trip out to the south side of Balloon Dome on road 6S02 then hit a trunk road out around Brown Cone to Cow Meadow. [about 15 years ago]. Camped in a clear cut just above the confluence of the South and Middle forks of the San Joaquin.
Would like to see what activity has transpired there.
lars
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I believe this is looking up at what Clint called the Cat Wall. Mostly overhanging I think
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/48.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/8.jpg)
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Cool pics and impressive wall, Dan. From the following description by Sean Jones of the Cat Wall, (and Clint's aerial), sounds like it's significantly bigger and further upstream from your pics. FYI, Sean descended further north from you guys, from around Squaw Dome.
"But it took so much longer to reach the bottom than we expected, with all the bushwhacking and rappels, that we were committed to climbing back out by a new route. We scoped an obvious line up what looked to be a not-so-big wall and started climbing at 4:30 p.m., knowing darkness would be upon us by 7:30. The line goes directly up the center of the largest south-facing wall opposite Balloon Dome, but slightly upstream, thus taking us back toward our approach descent. We named this wall the “Cat Wall.” But cracks that looked open from the ground pinched down in places and didn’t all connect. Our sweet 5.9 simul-climb and jog to the beer store turned into a thin- at-times, run-out, 1,400' 5.11c. We had no bivy gear, extra food, or other way out, so we had to focus and keep pushing. We managed everything onsight and topped out at 10 p.m. on a moonless night. Wearing shorts and T-shirts, with fading headlamps and no extra batteries, we ditched our gear and bushwhacked uphill for four hours, worshipping the car like a god, when we finally found it, and drove home, arriving just before sunrise. We named the route Heaven and Hell. The route name fits the entire canyon."
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You are probably right Nate. The wall in my photos is due west of the summit of Balloon Dome in the topo a couple posts up. You can also see it at the far left of Clint's route overlay on the previous page.
I hiked up along the river past there last year. It was in May and I didn't come to a place to cross the river unless you wanted to swim.
Here is a stitched panorama from as far up the river as I got.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BalloonDomePanoFrom%20River.jpg)
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Dan-
So this is lower Balloon Dome or Confluence Dome in the photo?
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Really looks like the vicinity of the Crucible to me.
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Crucible I think or nearby.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BalloonDomePanoFromRiverSmall.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BD_NW.jpg)
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This is taken from descending via the Disappearing Dome approach or from South Fork Trail?
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I hiked up river from Buffoon Dome river crossing.
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Really enjoying the stories and info on this thread. Great posts. Big adventure that can only be earned.
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Cannot wait to see it for myself. Looks amazing.
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(http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx99/susangodar/P1030861.jpg) (http://s745.photobucket.com/user/susangodar/media/P1030861.jpg.html)
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Glad to see the upcoming forecast looking so promising!
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I had to be in Indiana over the weekend but I did manage to get a photo of BD and SOYO yesterday afternoon. Not a very good one though. Saw Shuteye also.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/SOYO.jpg)
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Nice Dan. We've been thinking of those guys all week and through the weekend. Wondering how they fared. Any word?
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Happy anniversary John and Susan! We missed you at BD this last weekend.
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I sent bob an email but haven't heard back
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Aaron Tx - How was your trip?!
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We now have reason to believe there was a gag order distributed amongst the balloonatics of this past trip. We may never know what happened down there...
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Bob says our route Buffoon Dome saw a second ascent by a party of four.
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What happened at BD stays at BD, but what I can tell you is that the Buffoonery was abundant.
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See...gag order. Told ya.
Great job guys.
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Glad to hear of the buffoonery ~ Congratulations on the summit and other achievements out there!
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cool
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See...gag order. Told ya.
Great job guys.
All FA activity. Totally fun and I hope to go back this year.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/yfHMk_94sd8EIh30RDA0tlinMsR11Kxerd91ZyXnfx8=w276-h207-p-no)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F4ejVJGquvw/UZpJbDbuEXI/AAAAAAAADmc/bBXmT2_z-k8/w1145-h859-no/DSC03002.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7YeQ3_ba75w/UZpJo3n-41I/AAAAAAAADpQ/BaWrkDj0FYE/w1145-h859-no/DSC03025.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YQcsW9VFRfc/UZpJppsFjSI/AAAAAAAADpY/tBbbzq5tiAk/w1145-h859-no/DSC03026.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-swm8dx5xwvU/UZpJqeW4m6I/AAAAAAAADpg/GzYuxE6dEVU/w1145-h859-no/DSC03027.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_xzDg5395ak/UZpLsa4SUVI/AAAAAAAAECI/jvTxch5sjWY/w1357-h375-no/DSC03035-PANO.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2ddbssHdV4A/UZpJxDn38wI/AAAAAAAADqs/IjTpeaxm0uE/w1145-h859-no/DSC03037.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-eTVs-Aeg_oo/UZpJ2ySoVbI/AAAAAAAADrk/nDZ0WfwJKv8/w1145-h859-no/DSC03043.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X-M3Vi15r-E/UZpJ5pCKdZI/AAAAAAAADsI/fa6Aqkeravk/w1145-h859-no/DSC03048.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RNqtjYgqLwc/UZpJ6_TaXjI/AAAAAAAADsc/Zc0Cu714dFA/w1145-h859-no/DSC03050.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rXSsNXIhrkA/UZpJ9bzEyuI/AAAAAAAADs4/u4YnFEH5FHg/w1145-h859-no/DSC03054.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QD0N42yS7vM/UZpLyewNhDI/AAAAAAAAEBw/qeKB8V8lokM/w1356-h242-no/DSC03054-PANO.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oXeJmmGowPA/UZpKBuWsDqI/AAAAAAAADt0/XRbz7ZEjuVk/w1145-h859-no/DSC03061.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_ihtn_V3FKc/UZpKOCIGMOI/AAAAAAAADwk/XRyWmuhUbtk/w1145-h859-no/DSC03083.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1YALE19Ytkk/UZpKOi3RKQI/AAAAAAAADwo/EWBNEmyKFbY/w1145-h859-no/DSC03084.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AgOf4MdJEzc/UZpKPKJJUxI/AAAAAAAADww/cnGySU6x6Zk/w1145-h859-no/DSC03085.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G4X1YR4tV7A/UZpKQSpyTiI/AAAAAAAADxA/JVq-b9MnIfY/w1145-h859-no/DSC03087.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u-SD8GGlMjE/UZpKQ8ORFxI/AAAAAAAADxI/x9GKDDiKgpA/w1145-h859-no/DSC03088.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dJN1C7JQsxE/UZpKTY3lOwI/AAAAAAAADx0/ZHWRgLcv14I/w644-h859-no/DSC03093.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N9EoJk_JThA/UZpKUf9vATI/AAAAAAAADyA/ThDJEoyPEA8/w1145-h859-no/DSC03095.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GTSDGChvdt0/UZpKZMrs-NI/AAAAAAAADzA/hXH9Ezj0Sx4/w1145-h859-no/DSC03103.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BkzcsP8jtZU/UZpKaDAQ_KI/AAAAAAAADzQ/E2OUacfQSOE/w1145-h859-no/DSC03105.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PjMZU7j0B_U/UZpKc-d9voI/AAAAAAAADz4/5y9VYtrMPdE/w1145-h859-no/DSC03110.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-samlFjC-SHw/UZpKfPGX4cI/AAAAAAAAD0Y/n0UU8h4CmDE/w1145-h859-no/DSC03114.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-23oS40A7Yrk/UZpKf6RCJ-I/AAAAAAAAD0k/LIMKti3X-d4/w1145-h859-no/DSC03115.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oXkoduijXCk/UZpKhNOeH6I/AAAAAAAAD0w/0yqhJm40zCk/w1145-h859-no/DSC03117.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-66M9cmuc88k/UZpKiRUwfeI/AAAAAAAAD1A/ErEY0S1D2mU/w1145-h859-no/DSC03119.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1Kd4AxWXF6c/UZpKi-Bw7II/AAAAAAAAD1I/xhDTVC2bS2o/w1145-h859-no/DSC03120.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YpUonWWUdJc/UZpKlvoHNII/AAAAAAAAD1o/uNmFxzZdC0I/w1145-h859-no/DSC03124.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lSoI5VOA3fs/UZpKnNL3zyI/AAAAAAAAD14/Vx76JLKaxs4/w1145-h859-no/DSC03126.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LKg1s26oTKM/UZpKw0O5ItI/AAAAAAAAD4A/EwQdl9DvyfA/w1145-h859-no/DSC03143.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ClnOxnhDbCM/UZpK0Sx_AQI/AAAAAAAAD4s/yZtJ0WBJ2dI/w1145-h859-no/DSC03148.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S7-m4S9CL6s/UZpK1NyEWPI/AAAAAAAAD4w/KnaDOEl_blM/w1145-h859-no/DSC03149.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ONh2nhaaA38/UZpK2BqTYUI/AAAAAAAAD5E/pU-4IO-gNGo/w1145-h859-no/DSC03151.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZouHCZktdTo/UZpLB3walmI/AAAAAAAAD7Y/UQ_f_W8wsME/w644-h859-no/DSC03170.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XdECUY85qmw/UZpLCdrnISI/AAAAAAAAD7k/dFQpcGbCJEo/w1145-h859-no/DSC03171.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u0mROPd9M_Q/UZpLK3QDdQI/AAAAAAAAD9k/vcEyUn2Kwyg/w1145-h859-no/DSC03187.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I-EgSmeo0Cs/UZpLN_YtooI/AAAAAAAAD-c/Ngx-dh0UGDY/w1145-h859-no/DSC03193.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pr1YA5gdps8/UZpLSPI6g0I/AAAAAAAAD_c/CmRUoZoG6I8/w1145-h859-no/DSC03202.JPG)
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hi aaron, great shots, thanks for sharing, i had an awesome time on that trip :-) happy climbing mike a.
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Friggin awesome!!!
You guys were all so hush hush about the trip I was starting to think you guys had some kind of Deliverance-type incident down there that you didn't want to talk about. This is much better!
Excellent job you all.
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Wow! TFPU! Looks like an amazing trip!
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Thanks! It was a ton of fun! You really feel isolated once you are in the canyon.
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Wow! That is an awesome trip. Nice pics. Way to go! Thanks for sharing your success.
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I can imagine. Claustrophobia comes to mind. Just knowing there's a tough all day hike back out of there makes it all very serious.
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hi aaron, great shots, thanks for sharing, i had an awesome time on that trip :-) happy climbing mike a.
Hey Mike,
Hope all is well thanks for the bump!
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Great stuff Aaron! Love the mountain bikes for the approach.
lars
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Found this pic of the backside...
interesting...
(http://www.dangabbard.com/pics/huntington/balloon_dome_mt.jpg)
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Looks like you can get to it from there but there is a little creek or something around there that is a bit tricky to cross.
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Reposting a pic Dingus took of Angus Carbide and Burl on the approach to Balloon Dome some many years ago...
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Balloon%20Dome/BalloonDomeApproachAngusandBurl_zps2a11c159.jpg)
He recently reposted this over on SPH forum now that Angus is online a little bit.
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I have seen a trip report of this ascent somewhere before. I remember they did the Eastern approach which is quite a march from the trailhead. I am honestly very curious about trying this approach some day. Besides, there are Eastern routes that you wouldn't want to go to from the West. I want to check out Condor Dome to the SE too. Anyone heard of routes there?
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Condor Rock? Only my own. :o
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You have your own routes on Condor or your own Condor? I want a Condor....so jealous.
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neither. Just being stupid. I think it is called Condor Rock on the plaque at Mile High though.
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It is on the Mile High sign.
So I can still be the first guy with a pet condor? Awesome!
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The past few days I've been thinking about those two domes south of BD. (If a sign says Condor Rock then I say we should stick to that). I'd like to visit the east side of them although I think once you are there, either side is accessible through the saddle to BD. Looking at Google Earth, the east faces may not have many features and look like miniatures of the SE face of Half Dome. If so, probably beyond my grade. They may not be that steep though but certainly steeper than Big Sleep. The west face is steeper than the east based on the topo maps but more featured.
One could hire mules from Minarets Pack Station http://www.highsierrapackers.org/min.htm (http://www.highsierrapackers.org/min.htm) to haul your gear in and out. The hard part is that there isn't much water up there so you would want to go fairly early in the season. 5 days would make an excellent early summer trip. The mules generally aren't allowed off trail anymore so a person would still have carry loads a ways. Probably budget $150 per person for mules if you are willing to walk and not ride.
I suppose one could go in the fall, camp at Rattlesnake Lake and do the daily hike.
East faces:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/CondorSat.jpg)
Northwest face:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Condor.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/CondorApproach.jpg)
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Looks like the snow is gone at Graveyard Meadow.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/GraveyardSnowSensor2014.jpg)
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Wow, thank you for sharing Dan!
Yes, Nate, seen that photo before. Wonder if DM and friends will be heading into this region again soon.
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Hey SoYos! You can blame mungeclimber for my redirection to this site :D
I love the smell of Baloon Dome in the morning!
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Balloon%20Dome/BalloonDomeBaseBurlGuido_zps6ed9839a.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Balloon%20Dome/BalloonDomeSummitDingus_zps66910359.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Balloon%20Dome/BalloonDomeinProfile_zps2ed84565.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Balloon%20Dome/BalloonDomeApproach_zps2d77f658.jpg)
Smells like off width!
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Balloon%20Dome/BalloonDomeP2Crux_zpsdb31dae3.jpg)
And loooooong slabby runnouts.
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Balloon%20Dome/BalloonDomeP3LookingDown_zpsd45efd1c.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Balloon%20Dome/BalloonDomeSummit_zps97e51af9.jpg)
(http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Balloon%20Dome/BalloonDome_zpsa62a6c15.jpg)
The story behind the story.... I crushed my leg in a talus running accident. After 5 weeks of recovery I found myself at Marine Cracks area at Chipmunk Flat with my long time buddies Angus and Burl. Burl had recently taken up climbing with us and his very first multi-pitch and very first lead had been earlier that year, on Chiquito Dome of all places. Liberty, I seem to recall.
Anyway, at Marine Cracks I managed to climb a decently hard slab (one I tried to repeat with a guy named 'edge' from supertopo, this past summer, when he came thru SPH on a tour of the west, and could not do hehe). That afternoon, sitting at the base of a tree that I would revisit many times over the course of the intervening 20-some years since then, I asked what we were going to do the following weekend.
Angus replied,
"How about Balloon Dome?" My snarky reply,
"In a day?" Angus opened one eye and said,
"Is there any other way?"
"I'm in!" Chimed Burl.
The rest is as we say, history.
Always wanted to get back in there. Conversed with Mike Grabber about his first ascents with the Brothers Black, of the East Face and Boku Maru, a few years back. That was pretty cool. We had intentions of doing Boku Maru, but dayum that thing is run OUT and the bolts even then were 20-year old 1/4 inchers. We did the E Face instead thinking it would be better protected. Hehe. No. At least not with the rack we had.
Cheerio
DMT
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Awesome and thanks for the pics and stories.
First lead on Sweet Liberty?! Wow.
How long was the approach to BD that day after all? Any other comments?
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The Milktoast has arrived! No better place for those pics than here. I liked the full write up in the SSCA newsletter a few years back.
Stick around, DMT.
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Dingus,
Tis the season for Balloon Dome now that one can cross the river when the flow is up. If you are interested in going, let me know.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mClb96Oo8K0&noredirect=1 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mClb96Oo8K0&noredirect=1)
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I took some photos last weekend. Not pretty but trying to get as much detail as I could with my cheap camera gear.
Big image of the upper part of Balloon Dome:
http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BD%20big.jpg (http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BD%20big.jpg)
Same for Condor Rock
http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Condor-west.jpg (http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Condor-west.jpg)
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Welcome DMT - so great to find you here!
I've toyed with the notion of getting an up close, personal look at Balloon. Problem is always feeling more toyed with every consideration. Balloon Dome in a day, though, quite the inspiration! Now I fear I've been making excuses of needing more time than 2-3 days to check it out. Great to see your photos.
Wonder what age the Brother's Black were when out there. Sure liked most of the route Song to a Morning Star.
And the zip! I've taken a ride along a zip line before. Was that video from a visit in the spring or fall? You guys make it all look so accessible.
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The video was from May 2012.
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Junction Butte and Balloon Dome.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/991.jpg)
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First time I've seen this perspective. Looks far out there by forest service roads and/or a heck of a long hike!
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Long hike on Saturday. My daughter, who has little or no interest in climbing, and I hiked down to the confluence of the north and middle forks of the San Joaquin River. Goal was to scope out some crags along the river. The crags are there but steep/overhanging and access is anything but easy. There is a trail on the USGS maps but there isn't much left of it and we kept losing it. 9 hours of up and down hiking.
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Sounds "kinda" fun, Dan. I see on the maps the steepness you mention. Way to get out there.
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Sounds tough. But pretty darn great to be able to do that with fam.
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Soooo, Dan it was a bust or just too insane an approach for what it is? You did say there was steep rock which is pretty rare and otherwise desireable. Some people will hike hours for a nice boulder if it is promising.
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I went to try and see the crags just downriver from the confluence of the north and middle forks. Turns out I couldn't get a very good view of them without crossing one river or the other which didn't seem practical for the amount of time we had. Probably not too hard to do in the fall though. One could also hike up from Miller crossing. Took us 4.75 hours to get there and about 4 to get out.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Confluence/confluence.jpg)
The parts with white streaks are overhanging.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Confluence/000.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Confluence/002.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Confluence/993.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Confluence/996.jpg)
View of the confluence, north fork on right.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Confluence/005.jpg)
From the log which doesn't go all the way across.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Confluence/006.jpg)
Looking up river
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Confluence/008.jpg)
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Pretty darned hardcore recon, Dan! There is a really interesting view from Disappearing Dome of what I believe is that area that is all rock but you can't really see the full extent. From your photos it looks like you were more upstream of where I am talking about, they look less rocky.
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Wow, you must have wanted to spend the night down there? Any issues with poison oak?
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I don't know for sure but I don't think you can see this from Disappearing Dome, you might just be able to see the top few feet of these rocks.
Balloon Dome is at river mile 336, The bridge at Cassidy Crossing is at 339, Miller Crossing is at 341.5 and the confluence is at 344. The confluence is 6.0 miles NE of Disappearing Dome.
No poison oak and I looked very carefully.
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Probably right if you were that far away. Here is a shot I think was taken from DD.
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/IMG_3950_zps3fc89fae.jpg)
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I think your image is looking almost exactly towards Cassidy Bridge. The crags I photographed are about 26 degrees to the left of the center of your photo.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/Confluence/Johns%20POV.JPG)
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You are right Dan. If I fly to the base or summit of Disappearing I can't see your area. If I fly straight up or jump really high a few hundred feet I can. Man you were really way the hell out there. Awesome.
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/GEView_zpsed6229dd.jpg)
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(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/topofdome333P1060537.jpg)
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Stellar angle, susu.
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Taken 6/21/2014 Big, full resolution file. Right click the image to save it or view it full size.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/176b.JPG)
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Whooa Spectacular!
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The flipped version of this on ST, posing as the view from Glacier Point, was very perceptive, Dan!
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It was my son who saw that Nate, I suppose he's the perceptive one.
Sure looks like Glacier Point to me.
(http://www.supertopo.com/photos/24/25/363990_15458_XL.jpg)
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Washington Column looks smaller than I remember.
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This is prior to significant glaciation, as Watkins also hasn't really taken shape and the valley is still narrower than present day. Oh, and Half Dome isn't fully"halved" yet.
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I like Nate's theory that this was taken preglaciation (I'm that old) but I need to point out that the river has changed direction.
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Some guys my son knows from the climbing gym tried to do Buffoon Dome as a day trip this year. They got to the 5th class section and turned back. I think they know Clint. I've seen some photos on facebook.
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Sunlit face in Susan's photo a bit higher on this page is sweet. Are there many routes on that side, or all the routes are indicated in Clint's annotated photo in the beginning?
Sean Jones ticked off some incredible long FAs in CA. Awesome climbs. Even obvious stuff that was taken from under the noses is good. Flying in the Mountains on Parkline Slab and Gates of Delirium in Ribbon Falls Amphitheater were VERY good. Not many new routes turn out to be 'classic' lines, those are quality. Even though his route on HD got a lot of feelings hurt, it seems like another masterpiece. And the natural wide line next to it seems very worthy. I wonder if that wide thing was repeated...seems like a long ways to haul the wide gear for many. Anyway, CA is awesome.
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"I'm curious Vitaly, what specific value does that route add to that particular face that qualifies it as a masterpiece? I could have humped the ropes up there and placed the bolts top down."
As I understand majority of the route has gone ground up and he resorted to top down tactics when he realized he will drill into no where if he continued. He wanted to limit number of useless bolts (which limits the impact) and create a good free climb.
Look at Tommy Caldwell. He fixed up the whole Dawn Wall and looked for any possible variation to make it go free. Added bolts to it. I am sure a few will criticize him, but huge majority will only praise the effort because he is TC.
Route I did on Bubbs Creek Wall all went ground up. But I wanted to have a good free climb, not just a line. So on one of the pitches I used a few holes and a bolt to pendulum to pass a blank section. When I finished the pitch I swong around trying to connect different ways to free climb the pitch and bolted it, on rappell (I do not think it will add to my personal experience to re-bolt a pitch I top roped from the bottom. If I have to TR the pitch to find a free-climbable way, I am more concerned about doing a good job bolting). It took me about 5 different tries on 5 different days to figure out where is the logical way and where I should place the bolts to make reasonable clips. This was a very sequency section with a section that is likely 11d followed by a tough mantel and an 11c ish dead point move. I am bringing it up as a way to show that at times even when you try to go GU you can fuck up and make un-necessary holes. I think SJ wanted to limit the number of those higher on the route.
As far as I heard Sallamizer from ST (a VERY strong climber) tried the line and was very impressed by how sustained the line is and by quality of climbing. Katie Lambert tried it too, and had similar praise. Also bailed due to toughness of the line. So it seems that his line already proved itself as a big TESTPIECE free-climb for the next generation. Tried by some STRONG people and still unrepeated. It may not hold any value to you, some other people may find value in it. It is very subjective right? All I know is that SJ knows what he is doing and Doug Robinson was there to see it and was ok with what was going on. Those two have much more experience climbing new lines than me and I am not gonna be one of the people to judge them (personally).
PS: since I brought out my own example, I have to confess, I was a little sad, and was wondering if someone with more experience would do a much better job onsighting the line. When I did Ronin (put up by Brandon Thau and Nettle and later free climbed by a slightly different variation by Croft and Nettle) I was shocked by bolting on some pitches. Low 5.11 would literally have bolts less than 3 feet apart in places, and 5.9 one of the 5.9 pitches had 3 in like 90 feet of climbing. No big deal, but pretty ridiculous my partner and I thought. So than I stopped feeling bad and was fairly happy about job I have done.
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V-
Sean has had quite a bit of controversy surround many of his lines, in particular the Growing up route. The upper slab DID go ground up by another, more fit and experienced team...Southern Bell FA'sts.
Using the excuse "don't want a line of bolts to nowhere" does not hold water. > .11 all the way to the summit on growing up, or rather all the way down.
Forget about him leaving all of his shit up there, abandoned and left to rot? Classic would not be my first descriptor of a route with no repeats. Further Chad (Salamanizer) thought the section leading into the slab was poorly constructed and that the lower section was good crack climbing. Classic was not his opinion. Burly? YES.
That route is a blemish on Half domes canvas, and having mr clean climbing (DR) back the decision in a magazine is all the more proof that they knew they were giving up, err growing up. They were in such a rush to get the story to the mags they forgot to clean up.
Unrepeated. Seems the apparent fanfair has not drawn the ranks of climbers that could actually repeat the route.
I don't believe it has ever been redpointed either, so the actual FFA is still up for grabs.
Lot of heavy history surrounding seans exploits around the sierra. Much of which does not sit well with climbers who cherish adventure or general respect for the rock.
Either way, they found a cheap way to manufacture a (currently) unrepeatable line.
You want a classic line? The definition of Classic must be reinvented, chopped up and spit out on the way down during "installation". Nothing could be further from classic than growing up.
Well it is an opinion, and others can have their own. Southern Bell is not "classic" mostly due to the fact that only a handful of people could even approach the route. So having a rap-bolted route, in the same area, that is unrepeatable by heavy hitters in YOS makes it classic?
Hard sell, very hard indeed.
Good job on your route, sounds like it went the way you wanted it too, and you are going to redpoint the route before you release it to the public, which is the first step in creating a classic.
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Not to be a spoil sport but would you guys take it back to Supertopo? Please? It has been discussed literally to the point of nausea there. This is a thread about Balloon Dome.
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Well, I appreciate these posts, but do feel badly on the level that this is a drag...
John is working and not able to intercede, and I don't know if he even would or not. I would think at least this could be split to a different thread, or layered into a members only discussion.
There's more to the story I'm sure, it would be good to hear from those involved directly about their point of view but don't imagine that would happen here. In any case just want to say for various reasons I've had a lot of faith in DR though he is not someone I know personally really, and give him the benefit of the doubt, and too have been upset by the obloquy and personal attacks on ST on the subject. I don't see that as happening here by either of these posts, though, I understand feeling sick of it over a friend you care about involved.
I think too that VM is probably climbing. He did say he has Tuesdays off.
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Sorry Dan,
Maybe you might shed some light on his route(s) in that area? Get it back on track?
I never delete or pull posts, so if the management deems it necessary to remove "our" 3 post deviation to the balloon dome thread so be it.
Now that ain't like supertopo now is it? :D
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VM is working today. Was asked to work these next few weeks. :) Need $! So I could buy more climbing gear! :) And rent a sherpa so I could get out to BALLOON DOME!
Seriously it looks soooo good!
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No problem.
Maybe you might shed some light on his route(s) in that area?
I have talked to DR about Balloon Dome and he thought Bob and my adventures out there were interesting but he hasn't been there. I've also asked him about SoYo in general and he doesn't recall much detail. He says that Robbins would send him off with clients to climb things but nobody really kept track of where or what they climbed. I doubt DR can shed much light on anything that we don't already know.
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Time and again I think of Thanksgiving, as whose extended family and friends that bring along varying friends who are strangers to you... are aligned on politics and religion around that table? Climbing discussions like politics and religion erupt with the same sort of passion. Even if there is general agreement on a topic, there are more nuances than people.
I think of those who have been climbing most their lives, living through changes in climbing as people who may just be open-minded and experimental enough to try exploring newly considered possibilities, so it bothers me when someone gets blasted for believing one thing one way and then trying something different at some point without first having realized the potential impact and with no benefit of hindsight.
We all get sick of these discussions at times, but dialogue has to carry-on in part because there will always be new ground to throw a wrench in the works. We all know what's heard through the grapevine or read online isn't gospel and probably referenced out of context, and maybe giving the benefit of the doubt should be knee-jerk. For instance, I think if Thau & Nettle really put bolts 3 feet apart in some spot, then there’s probably some understandable explanation for it. Maybe there's a different take on some slight protrusion in the rock face below, or the bolt was actually bad for some reason not apparent, or they didn't have the means and meant to get back to it and life, kids, whatever, hasn't allowed it. I don't mean to skim over the point VM made regarding perhaps in general noting easier territory has few protection points when difficult terrain has more than enough. But that doesn't make bad sense to me that a climb may be so constructed. And there are plenty of 'finished' routes out there that have no bolts and hardly any gear in entire pitches. Definitely don't want FAs handled by committee changing that landscape. I love that we are to tolerate if not honor differences. Those contrasts may serve to stretch and teach us with open dialogue a basic building block.
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Thanks Susan,
I too think that discussion and sharing are important in the climbing community. In fact the people are more important to me than the climbing. I also think that online forums and the internet in general, are poor places to discuss emotional issues. My theory is that so much of communication is subtle tone, expression and visual. I've noticed that Supertopo posters who battle viciously online will have pleasant conversations at the facelift when face to face. I think it is a lot like the person who willfully and aggressively cuts you on the freeway but wouldn't do the same thing in the checkout line at the supermarket because he would have to face you and others present. Face and personal feedback are important.
Bearing that in mind, I'd be happy to talk about the Robinson/Jones Half Dome route around the campfire sometime. I could probably tell you a few few things about Doug that would be interesting and relevant which I wouldn't post on a forum because it is a public place and it isn't polite to do so. What I think may not be what you expect.
I've always been very careful about judging what people do when I wasn't there. It's hard to second guess the man on the spot. This is true even about myself when looking back on what I have and haven't done. I think of peaks and routes that I have backed off of and in hindsight I think it was pretty wimpy of me but when I was there, in that place, at that time, it was the right choice. Opinions are cheap and plentiful but truth is a very hard thing to find and even harder to recognize.
Like my grandmother used to tell me, it never hurts to be nice.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/028a.jpg)
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Munge, you mention the conversation is elsewhere?
Dan, Great photo of the three of you!
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There's more to say... maybe on some other part of this forum.
Anyway, glad you like that photo VM, a rare lucky capture from my snapshot ways.
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hi all, here some pix of the last years trip to balloon dome bob and clint took me, thanks again guy's for the invite great time :-).
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more pix
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All of this activity is starting to make get a hankering for another hunk of Balloon Dome.
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All of this activity is starting to make get a hankering for another hunk of Balloon Dome.
It's all of the photos of Mike A waving...it looks like he is always having a great time.
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http://www.matthewmatera.com/climbing.html#BalloonDome (http://www.matthewmatera.com/climbing.html#BalloonDome)
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Cool. That is badass that they went out there.
Are they Fords friends you were mentioning a while back?
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Nice!
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Some guys that Ford met at the gym.
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Been looking through these photos and getting all worked up about making a trip this year. There is some really great info in here, thanks for supplying it folks!
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I am so glad I am not down in that hole this weekend.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/B%20Dome%202012.jpg)
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I am so glad I am not down in that hole this weekend.
Your photo does not represent your feelings well, it looks very pleasant.
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I answered a few questions I had and came up with a few more questions that need answers this past weekend.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/284.jpg)
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/521.jpg)
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purdy stuff, Dan. Cool rare angle on the back of Balloon and Condor Rock.
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Curious to hear more about your trek, Dan. Great shots! You sure do walk the miles!
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That almost looks crossable. How many mile hike? I'm in for a back of the BD trip after July onward...
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Oooooooooh. Lots of rock.
How was the hike?
Do tell more. Very interested.
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I didn't go up to the domes, just down to the river. A gate is closed until June 15 so I had to walk a mile of road then down to the river (total of about 2.5 miles and -2400' going in). Starting at 11:15 it was 2 hours from car to river then 2.5 hours back. Route finding is, as always, easier going up when you can see cliffs before you get to them. Just carried map, compass, water bottle and two cameras. There are several ways to cross the river and more than one way to get down to the river. There is poison oak near the river with bear tracks, likely rattle snakes, lizards and gnats everywhere.
I think with the safety of companions I would go a shorter, steeper route. If the gate is open, it would be perhaps 1.6 miles and -2000' down to the river then 1.1 miles +1800' up to the base of the upper condor rock. Now would be the time to go as I think there is probably water near the domes but probably won't be in summer or fall. Otherwise you could camp at the river and commute but the commute might be 2.5 hours going and 1.5 back with gear. This is probably the fastest way to summit BD (3.2 miles. +2800' -2100' one way) and could make a good day trip.
Summer or fall it might make more sense to take a 4 day trip from the Cassidy trailhead going to and camping at Cassidy Meadow/Rattlesnake Lake where there is water.
Look at the above photo of the east faces, nearly a mile of rock face and the only 5th class route in view is Beckey's on the far right skyline. The down side is that there doesn't seem to be much feature to the rock and bolting slabs makes for slow fa's and lots of hardware to carry.
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Summer or fall it might make more sense to take a 4 day trip from the Cassidy trailhead going to and camping at Cassidy Meadow/Rattlesnake Lake where there is water.
Mileage that way? Distance from the Lake to base of rock? If it's nominal mileage, that would be cool by me.
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To get to Rattlesnake Lake you start at the Cassidy trailhead and descend to the river upstream from BD. Two places to cross the river; you can wade or ride the cable car at Miller Crossing, or take the bridge at Cassidy crossing AKA the Cassidy Bridge.
Cassidy Bridge is shorter and the usual way. Going to Rattlesnake is only about 6+ miles -2400' +1600'.
Miller is longer, not as steep and not often traveled. Going out is 7+ miles -3300' +2400'. I believe this was the usual way to go before the bridge was built because horses can cross the river here.
You can also hire mules at the Minarets station to haul your stuff or you and your stuff to Rattlesnake. This is a good option for chubby guys approaching 60.
Here's a guy who hiked the loop with photos of the The bridge at the Cassidy trailhead, the Cassidy Bridge and the cable car at Miller.
http://jjolson.org/MiddleForkSanJoaquin2010-2.htm (http://jjolson.org/MiddleForkSanJoaquin2010-2.htm)
To walk from Rattlesnake to the base of the middle dome is about 2.5 miles +800' -400'.
You could also camp nearer the rock and hope for water or shuttle to the lake for water. In June of 1972, Beckey says he camped near BD for a couple days and I would guess he found water.
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The gate that is closed to June 15 sounds like it has to do with the deer migration through Mammoth Pools which is also locked until then. The deer are partying right now.
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Cool share, Dan. You descended to the river further east than I thought you would, but I imagine it's more doable than further west, where there are more cliffs on both sides.
Look at the above photo of the east faces, nearly a mile of rock face and the only 5th class route in view is Beckey's on the far right skyline.
You are forgetting about the other east face routes by the Black brothers & Michael Graber, and another recorded ascent with a variation to the East face route.
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From the 1975 AAJ:
Balloon Dome. After an abortive attempt in 1971 to find Balloon Dome, I returned in 1974 with the indefatigable Black brothers, Dave and Jim. During a four-day visit we climbed three new routes. West Face: the wall that faces Squaw Dome is dominated by an obvious, left-facing open-book. To our disappointment, the greater part of the book required aid. Seven pitches. NCCS IV, F9, A3. Boko-Maru: immediately left of a spectacular pillar on the northeast face is a smooth wall broken only by a sinuous dike which winds up and left. Two pitches led to the base of the dike and seven more of superlative climbing followed it to the summit. Nine bolts were placed. NCCS III, F9. East Face: we climbed the first chimney system to the left of the above- mentioned route for two pitches and then traversed right on challenging face climbing to a crack which we followed to the summit. Eight pitches. NCCS III, F9.
Michael Graber, Buff Mountaineers
I thought of the west face route but forgot about the others.
I have always assumed that the "spectacular tower" is Beckey's route so Boko-Maru would be next to the pillar on the right skyline. Their East Face would be next to that and on the face which is edge view in my photo. I am not certain where the routes are but think all three would basically be the right skyline although their East Face route might be in view.
I'm guessing their east face is under the words Balloon Dome on the topo map and not much of the face is visible in my photo.
Anyway, you are right and I neglected a couple routes but my intended point is still true, there are no 5th class routes anywhere in my photo except near the right skyline. I doubt there is a formation as big as the two Condor Rocks in California that hasn't been touched by climbers. I would really like to be the first to do so.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BD_Map.jpg)
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Great stuff! And the link http://jjolson.org/MiddleForkSanJoaquin2010-2.htm (http://jjolson.org/MiddleForkSanJoaquin2010-2.htm) is a fully enjoyable read up through the part about poison oak at least. Looking forward to reading more after hours... TFPU!
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Dingus could chime in with specifics about the East Face route, since he's climbed it. You are right that they are nearish the right skyline. He was kind enough to share a few pics from his adventure on this site. His full write up in the SSCA newsletter years ago was very cool.
Any ascents up Condor Rock are indeed a mystery - but there are those out there who like to do backcountry routes and not record them, so who knows? If not, announcing you'd like to be the first, right here on the internet, may start the race. ;) It's certainly crossed my mind, and no doubt many others, over the years.
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Race?
How can it be a race if we all go out there together?
Just wait til July or Aug for me. :)
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I didn't know Dingus had a website.
If it's a race, it's a very gradual one.
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I didn't know Dingus had a website.
If it's a race, it's a very gradual one.
Gradual indeed, but you might have just accelerated it with your juicy pics and statement of intent. :) And yes, munge, I'd love to be in on a group effort. But anyone who knows me knows I'm much more talk than action, or really, more thought than action. And when action finally happens, I'm a tortoise. And even if the race isn't for first, seems there's plenty of blank rock to go around for a couple years.
re Dingus: I said "this site" not "his site". Doubt he has one, though he could have a really good one for sure, master story teller that he is.
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July or August seems too awfully hot there doesn't it? Need the higher elevations then methinks.
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Hey, I'm new here. Thanks for maintaining this site, and for the excellent thread on Balloon Dome! By far the best info anywhere. I hope to go out there soon.
Maybe this is a "neglected" thread, but I'm trying to follow up on shreds of info put up by Vitaly and Yeti. No, no, no, NOT reviving the "discussion" about the value of Growing Up as a climb, but I would love to hear more about the two apparent attempts to climb it, by Salmanizer and Katie Lambert. It seems weird to me that it has not had a second ascent.
I searched ST for Salmanizer. He seems absent. Maybe he was deleted? I don't follow happenings over there much anymore. Pretty rough.
Anybody here know how to get in touch with him?
Likewise Katie Lambert?
I would just like to hear their stories.
Any ideas, please email me.
Thanks!
Doug Robinon
drobinson@movingoverstone.com
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Hi Doug,
I think Katie is on facebook...
https://www.facebook.com/katie.lambert.902/about
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Welcome Doug, nice to see you here - would be great to hear of any stories you may have of the area too! At any rate, hope you make the connections you are looking for soon. Salamanizer appears to be reachable on Mountain Project and is an administrator there. What a great resource that site!
Wow wonderful Facebook photos of Katie!
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Thanks, Susan!
You and John truly are Heroes for being the keepers of this flame. Much appreciated.
It feels like the whole SoYo region is truly a special Hinterlands, enjoyed still 45 years after I followed Royal into it in a caravan led by his red and white VW Bus, tagging along in my yellow '58 Bus. Somehow it remains mostly unknown, the province of a select few, nearly an Illuminati, and ignored by the climbing world at large. It's a little more effort to bounce up the logging roads -- surely that helps keep it more like exploration. (I got lost even last summer, trying to find the regular road from Fresno Dome Campground out to Fish Camp. Dunno where I went wrong -- will have to go back and look -- but I got into serious 4WD terrain, inching down a ravine, walking ahead to scout and crawling over boulders. Bashed up a rental van pretty good, and was so thankful that, for once, I had bought the insurance on it.)
Beyond that sort of thing, I'm not sure I can add too many stories until, maybe, I start nosing around back on the plateau again. See, I got stuck years ago on going to Wamello Dome, and that's still basically the locus of all my SoYo experience, guiding and climbing with my kid and taking whole classes there when I taught at Foothill College in the 90s. A few, but very few, from that group are with us now.
And, yeah, from way back I recall climbing on The Balls, and a few places that I think are on the edges of Shuteye. I look forward to reconnecting with that terrain, letting the memories flood back, and mingling them with the excitement of climbing there now.
Balloon Dome began to fascinate me from way back in the early 70s when its photo was published in the Ascent article about Westside Domes. So much that the only time I have driven to the back of the plateau in decades was to walk out to an easy viewpoint and sit for an hour staring at it. Massive! Remote! Intriguing!
So thanks again for hosting this wonderful Forum. And thanks for the leads toward Salmanizer and (thanks, Munge) Katie. Onward to that.
Cheers!
Doug
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Hi Doug, glad you like the site and welcome!
I too hope you can give us all some stories from the early days out there, especially ones you must have had involving VW bus epics! That sounds hardcore going out there in those things at all. Wow. (Coming from a fellow VW bus owner BTW)
Yeah, Balloon Dome sure gets in your head doesn't it. It is truly incredible.
Also a friendly warning: now that you are here I may be bugging you in the future for your insights about older routes in the area, especially at Fresno Dome since you seem to have spent so much time there over the years.
Once again, welcome and please feel free to share whatever you can, we would love to hear it all. Cheers!!
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Thank you Doug. I have struggled a bit to accept a compliment but would like to say simply thank you!
Also, I appreciate your writing style, even a few words about driving around out there "bouncing" up those logging roads. It's only been a few months since we've done that, but I really miss it -- and your post fills me with those good memories. Enjoyable to learn of others' heydays out there and to hear as much as possible about them. Sure would love to see if you had any photos at some point too.
Well, certainly hope to see you out and about out there in the coming months.
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Just want to add that I too would very much like to hear any tales you recall from your early days in the Hinterlands with Royal and the Rockcraft gang! And a big hearty welcome to a genuine pioneer, Doug!
Hope you can make it out there more this year, retracing old steps and finding new ones, bringing old friends and finding new ones.
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Yeah Doug!! Good to see you here.
I wish I still had my 77 bus and could transport back in time and follow you guys out some logging roads. 8)
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Hello Everyone.
Newbie poster here. I am heading up to BD this Saturday August the 6th to look around. I am bring a DSLR and "long" lens. If anyone wants pictures of anything please let me know. I'll post a trip report here if there's anything to add to the conversation. At the very least it will be a recent report.
Cheers,
Kent
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If you go to the top, photograph the register entries. There shouldn't be many since I replaced it a few years ago.
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Welcome, Kent! Are you doing a recon or climbing a route?
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Well... since I am new I will throw in a little entertainment by way of introduction...
http://www.sacbee.com/news/local/article86017697.html
Read this with a grain of salt. Of course I had a map and compass. Plenty of food and water as well as shelter. Long story short she couldn't walk out and we couldn't carry her. Rolling the dice on her feeling better in 24 hours was not on the table. I've been climbing and wandering the backcountry for 30 years and never had an epic until this year. We took the Warren Lake "trail" off of the PCT and then descended the snow gully to Paradise Lake. All north facing slopes were under 5 feet of snow. Slick in the morning post hole in the afternoon. Everyone was fine and then, "bam". AMS. We've all been there...
I am under strict orders not to climb anything on this trip. I'm going solo.
All that said, this trip is just to scout a location to take my family off the grid safely. Chosen for the lower elevations. To be clear, my 10 year old is the one who inherited my wanderlust and taste for climbing. Above all else she needs to have a good experience on our next outing. Blah blah blah. The trip reports I have read are all over the map (no pun intended). Some say no trail whatsoever, some say easy peasy. I'm no stranger to route finding but I need to make my own assessment.
The "plan" is simply to walk down to the river from the Granite Creek bridge and look at camping sites north of Cassidy Bridge. If that only takes an hour and half then I will have plenty of time to poke around down there and scout the location of the trail to Rattlesnake Lake. Since it's a day trip I am taking a tripod and wide lens and pano rig for panos as well as a 200mm lens for stitching hi res photos of things like Domes ;) Since I'm lugging the gear I thought I'd ask if anyone wants a particular photo or easy recon.
I haven't climbed trad in a long time. I will need some guidance about what to post and not post in my trip report. I assume any caches and/or river crossings/other goodies not on the map are subject to what I call "road code" - what happens on the road stays on the road.
I traditionally do a trip the second week of October every year and this year I assume it will be a 4 day trip to climb BD on the class 3 route and spend two days scouting other goodies. I'll be sure to photograph the register on that trip if I don't get up there sooner.
Cheers!
Kent
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Epics... we have all been there to some degree haven't we? Thanks for posting up! That is so cool your intention to keep your daughter dug in to her adventure inclinations! Good on ya! Sorry no logistical help from me other than encouragement...
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On June 20, 2016 I'd guess it was 100 degrees at the Cassidy Crossing. It is hotter than Yosemite Valley down there. Hiked down there in the AM and spent most of the day napping under a tree with occasional dips in the river waiting for it to cool down. Left there about 5 pm headed for the car. Should have stayed longer but my patience ran out. Quite a slog up out of the canyon but at least it was shady most of the way. Sweat was dripping off my hat brim and t-shirt tails. Don't expect to find water between the car and the river this time of year. On the south side between the river and Rattlesnake Lake I wouldn't expect any water either. Poison oak on both sides of the river but worse on the south side.
In October I would expect that Rattlesnake Lake is the closest water to the east side of BD. There are two small tarns along the way from RL to BD but they may be dry by October. This year they were filled with stagnant tea colored water which I drank without ill effect - tannin being a good antimicrobial. I haven't filtered or boiled water in many years.
Anyway, go, have fun and let us know what happens.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/953.jpg)
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Thanks!
Will do. Gosh, seven dead trees in one image. Makes for good fertilizer, I guess. Hopefully I'll reply here with some fun pics and panos. I don't know about you but I never get tired of seeing photos - even if I was just there.
Kent
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Kent
I would love to see some closeup shots of Disappearing Dome if you happen to be pointed that way. Cat Wall too. I don't have a good long-distance camera so this appears to be a rare opportunity. Thanks and have a great time!!
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Here is my dead tree panorama.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/DeadTrees.jpg)
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Man, there is a lot of dead trees. You know, I just learned that the trees that are turning brown have been dead for about a year and take that long to brown. That means that we are looking at some dead trees that are currently green and haven't turned yet so it could look even worse. So much fire fuel...makes me cringe.
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Still stunning...
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And heartbreaking about our Evergreen forests dying. Trying to be over it already since the writing is on the wall, but never gonna be.
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I believe so.
The particulate matter in the air is going to be hard to shoot across the canyon. Hopefully it won't have blown up canyon too much.
Much good luck to ya.
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Thanks. I did my homework and found it.
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Not my best work but I was being mobbed by Gnats of Insanity That Laugh At DEET.
(http://www.johnsonphotographic.com/disdome/disappearing_dome_from_east_s.jpg) I didn't get a clear shot at Cat Wall.
High resolution version: http://www.johnsonphotographic.com/disdome/disappearing_dome_from_east.jpg (http://www.johnsonphotographic.com/disdome/disappearing_dome_from_east.jpg)
Trip report: The trail is well used (lots of pack activity). A blind person could follow it. The Poison Oak I saw was under control (read what you want into that). The trail to RL even has a sign!
The gnats were truly out of control. If you do this hike either a) just deal with it b) wear mesh headgear or c) hike this sucker at night (preferred). I had a really bad day up there. My recent broken toe and bout with an unknown virus (both of which I thought were vanquished) wreaked havoc on my hike out. Car to car was a brutal 12 hours. Oof! In all my years of backpacking (much of it brutal) I have never dealt with leg (feet, glutes, calves, lower quads) cramps before. Go figure. Daddy's gonna be hitting the stairmaster regularly now!
Upon further reflection it seems that I ran head on into Hyponatremia. I resolved to drink a lot more water on this trip than I usually do (which I did) and didn't up my salt intake accordingly. A word to the wise...
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Thanks for sharing that shot Kent! Sounds like you had a proper adventure minus the cursed bugs.
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Thanks. This was the first time I've ever experienced this level of swarm, especially this late in a dry year. Has anyone else encountered these guys? Any tips? Hanging ferns from your hat, etc?
DEET made no impression upon them whatsoever. When I stepped into the sun with a slight breeze and stopped spewing CO2 they vanished almost immediately. I'm thinking exhaling through a large tube that exits behind me might have been effective. Crazy...
The plus side of getting my rear handed to me was experiencing walking through the forest at night. I had forgotten how beautiful it can be. Those owls are loud!
Kent
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The wasps were horrible at the Balls last couple of weekends. Prior to that they were the usual bad at Gray for this time of year. Surprisingly I didn't get bit much, nor stung, not to any point where a mark was left. Perhaps the wind picked up because I am not one for Jedi mind tricks, but I wondered if trying to keep calm around them worked as sometimes I actually forgot about them for stretches of time...
You know the scene from the movie Avatar? What you said Kenteroo reminds me just a little of that scene where the jungle comes alive at night. Being alone must completely intensify the experience, and yet honestly I'd be pretty scared alone like that out there far from shelter. Sounds nice otherwise!
Btw we saw the cutest white owl middle of the road recently while driving along Grizzly at night. We were falling all over ourselves trying to find a cell phone or camera to get a photo in time but no.
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Anyone ever notice the + on the top of Condor on the north end? It looks like a heli-pad spot. It is visible from google earth.
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That's a location marker for aerial photography. My dad was a USGS topographer. I used to help him set them up. We usually staked out cloth panels but on rock it was sometimes better to paint them.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/882.jpg)
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Very cool. I never realized they placed those out there like that for aerial pics.
Looks like you have climbing harnesses on. What was your route?
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That was in June when I went with Bob and my son. We talked about it I think. A first route on Condor but nothing great.
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That is awesome. I hadn't seen anything on that. Very cool. Can you expand on that.
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Well, About 6 months in advance I planned a trip to the east side of Condor. The plan was to go in mid June. Vitaliy M. and a partner were in, Doug Robinson and partner were in. Bob was in. My old time climbing partner Rob was in. My son and possibly a partner were in. 8 or 9 people.
I had to change the date by a week because my brother had the nerve to drop dead without warning and I had things to take care of. Couldn't skip out since I am now the family eldest and only survivor of my generation. Rob bailed long before departure. Vitaliy bailed a few days prior. On the hike in I picked up a text at a spot where I had a line of sight to Mammoth Mountain and DR bailed. So, Only Bob, my son and I went.
Bob was recovering from a broken collarbone so my son and I carried the ropes, rack. drilling kit, bolts, hangers and chains in.
Bob left from work and hiked in on Friday but only made it to the river as it was harder and longer than he expected. He then went up to the dome Saturday morning and did some recon for us plus cleared poison oak from the trail. My son and I did the whole hike on Saturday. We weren't sure there would be water so we each carried about 5 liters the last part. Sunday morning we went to the west side of Condor and tried the obvious dihedral. Too hard for us so we bailed and went to the east side trying what looked easy enough. It was easy enough but too long. We kept seeking a shorter and faster way but it was all bolts and taking too long, Eventually, running out of bolts and daylight, we rapped into the brush between the upper and lower Condor Rocks. We went up to the saddle and found an easy 5th and simul-climb way up to the top arriving after dark.
Sunday morning Bob and Ford started another route on the east side of Condor while I went on a long hike getting many photos of the whole east side of Condor. Bob left to hike out around midday and that afternoon Ford lead and bolted a very nice slab pitch on the east side of Condor.
On Monday morning, Ford and I headed out. It was beastly hot and we stopped at the river to wait for cooler temperatures. After naps and a swim, about 5 pm we headed up and made the car before dark. Drove home Tuesday.
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Great to hear more about your trip! Starting with a plan of 8-9 people materializing into 3... Sounds like a great team and a big success nonetheless!
I know we spoke about this before but still wish to extend condolences. I am so very sorry for your loss.
I lost my own brother Rich many years ago. Smehow I always luckily remembered the last moments with him when we said goodbye and how my face as usual would land well below his shoulder when we hugged. I remember with vivid detail the doe colored sweater he wore, and how tall and how, I don't know, just how present he was.
After, I left the west coast for the east again, and several months later he was gone completely unexpectedly. That detailed remembrance of the parting hug has warmed me since - solidifies the reality of him. Much needed when I was later to have to impossibly hold a box of ashes that was all of what remained of him and have to also remember that shock. I don't know if I'll regret sharing this grief like this, but there it is. I don't share enough. Pardon if it's a bit too much.
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I think the amount of grief varies in part with what you expect. Everybody expects to lose loved grandparents and parents as I have. Even a long illness portends a loss. Losing my brother without any sort of warning was and still is a crushing blow. He was healthy, took no medication, didn't have high blood pressure or cholesterol issues. I had always assumed we would just grow old and hang out together. I talked to him the day before and he was fine.
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Careful, you are making sense of the senselessness. No wonder this loss can still hit so fresh from time to time - and it has been decades later for me. We were also completely sucker punched by it being totally unexpected. Plus just miss him. There was that senselessness of his being so young, too, and yet I realize that he lived a full life... And after a while the grief gives way more to thankfulness for him just as he was, though the remorse for what we miss carries on.
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My condolences as well. I have lost some close friends but no family like that. It is hardest when it is unexpected. Really sorry.
It seems like you honored him in doing something you love. Would love to see the pictures some time.
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My condolences as well. Sadly, I've been there too.
I am heading up to BD this next week (10/10) to climb the class 3 route and do some more photography. I still owe folks a high res pano of the Cat Wall and I'll do the summit register as well if I make it. Anything else?
I'm trying out a new lightweight rig (Nikon J5 (20mp), 10-100mm Nikkor lens (270+mm equivalent)). This beats the heck out of lugging a full sized dSLR and f/2.8 70-200mm lens - Ooof!
Cheers,
Kent
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Perfect time to go out there Kent. Have a kick ass time and take lots of photos for us less adventurous types!
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Jealous. Can't wait for your TR
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Am I reading this correctly?
Forest Order No. 05-15-00-16-01 - Sierra National Forest Wilderness Permit Restriction
http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd502415.pdf (http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd502415.pdf)
Pursuant to 16 USC 551 and 36 CFR 261.50(a), and to provide for public safety and protect natural resources, the following act is prohibited within the Sierra National Forest. This Order is effective from May 19, 2016, through May 19, 2018.
1. Camping in the John Muir, Ansel Adams, Dinkey Lakes, and Monarch Wilderness.
is this a joke or do they mean to indicate that camping without a WP is illegal (always has been...). I loath bureaucrats.
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Imagine how pissed you would be if you learned this by getting a stupid ticket for doing what you assumed was OK, camping in the outdoors. Ironically, with said permit, you could still have a fire in August in wilderness while everybody else couldn't during the fire ban....go figure.
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Am I reading this correctly?
Forest Order No. 05-15-00-16-01 - Sierra National Forest Wilderness Permit Restriction
http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd502415.pdf (http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd502415.pdf)
Pursuant to 16 USC 551 and 36 CFR 261.50(a), and to provide for public safety and protect natural resources, the following act is prohibited within the Sierra National Forest. This Order is effective from May 19, 2016, through May 19, 2018.
1. Camping in the John Muir, Ansel Adams, Dinkey Lakes, and Monarch Wilderness.
is this a joke or do they mean to indicate that camping without a WP is illegal (always has been...). I loath bureaucrats.
The exemption language under that language in the Order clearly identifies that wilderness permit holders and other official functions are not subject to the camping restriction in the Wilderness. Permits are lawfully allowed under the cited USC
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OK, I feel dumb. It's there in black and white.
Still, applying basic Aristotelian logic to this document is impossible.
1) Spending the night in the wilderness without a permit is illegal. It has been for a long time, here are the reasons historically.
2) It's still illegal even though there is no reason whatsoever to think that it might not be any more.
Therefor
There's absolutely no reason for this Forest Order whatsoever.
Here's a bunch more characters for some reason no one can explain. Never mind that everyone knows this. It's the equivalent to "The Forest Service has determined that the sky is blue." A bunch or characters. "It's still blue".
Your tax dollars at work...
Sigh. Trip report. I pulled the plug. I drove from Sunnyvale to Clover Meadow Campground. Made good time. I left at 10am and arrived at 3:15pm.
Never in all my years of backcountry travel has my Spider Sense screamed so loudly. It was too hot, humid, no birds whatsoever, still tons of nasty insects. Lots of male Tarantulas looking for dates. I saw three Rattlesnakes. Super quiet in a really bad way. I tried to shake it. No dice. I drove out to the trailhead hoping to get the scent. Nope.
I can't really explain it. Normally I would be chomping at the bit in a setting like that, wanting to see what's around the corner. Not today. Yes, I may be nutty but if I've learned one thing in life so far it's "listen to your gut."
Maybe when it gets cooler up there and the clouds finally give it up.
Lovely day...
(http://www.johnsonphotographic.com/balloon_dome/DSC_0095.small.jpg)
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yeah, I can't think of any wilderness that doesn't have a permit system for overnights.
sounds like the spidey sense was working just fine. got to go with it, right?
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hi all, i've lurked quite a bit here so thought i'd share some pics of balloon dome. and to let anyone who might go up there know that the summit register, while very solid and secure looking, was full of water. not sure what to do about it but maybe a ziplock or two at the very least would be good. anyway, climbed the beckey pillar plus brandon's free dike route last weekend. approached from kaiser pass logging roads, down and across the south fork. doing it in a day this way was very doable.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/balloon-5_resized.jpg)
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/splitters_resized.jpg)
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/free dike_resized.jpg)
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Nice job!!
That's really great that you approached successfully from where I think you started out. That crossing of the South Fork of the SJ looked way iffy when we did a recon. That's starting from the end of Stump Spring Road? How long to the base?
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I can't recall the name of the specific road, but here's a map. Google maps worked to take us out there. Blue line is actually the way in and orange the way out. It went surprisingly well. We were able to avoid most all bush and cliff. As you can see, from where we were able to drive to, it was under 3 miles to the base. I think it took us 3 hours each way. As we were talking about in the other thread, the hail made getting out a little more interesting. One minute we were swimming and relaxing on the sandy beaches at the river, the next we were negotiating mossy slabs running with ice water to get back to the car. At least it didn't come while we were on the dome I suppose...
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/balloon map_resized.jpg)
Also, speaking of Fuller Butte in the other one, is there any chance you can email me some beta? i have some from Jerry and have climbed Walking with Walt. But walking the base, there are a ton of routes on those things. Would love to know about/climb more of them.
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For some reason I thought Dingus said he and Angus crossed a bridge when they went in there? Anyone recall that?
If there's no bridge, how is/was the crossing? Is that the wet mossy slab part? :o
and lest I ferget, well done!!!!!!!! Some good adventure there!
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There is a bridge if you come from the north. And that way is mostly all on a trail. But.... it's about 10 miles one way. This way was a gamble at only 3 miles but all off trail. But it paid off. The crossing was chill. Finding a way down to the river and up the other side that didn't cliff out was a little tricky, but not bad. This time of year at least...
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Ok thx. Yeah I’m getting stories crossed then.
I cross posted your pic to sph forum to understand my failed priorities in life. Lol
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So glad you posted up those great photos and info on accessibility.
I thought Stump Springs Rd was going to be closed this year from road damage from the winter before last. Seems Minarets has only been repaired in a couple spots yet. Anyways amazing views on that side of the river, huh?
How was that stretch of climbing on the pinnacle? Looks beautiful - all those cracks!
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Wow, 3 hrs each way sounds reasonable if it is less strenuous than the Western approach. I would guess they are similar in difficulty since they have about the same elevation drop and subsequent gain? If there was no poison oak or rappels you are already in better shape.
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Excellent trip. I've known the approach from the Kaiser Peak side would work for a few years. I once hiked solo down to the south fork to the same point where you crossed. This is the time of year to do it and get across the river without much trouble. During deer migration, some of the gates are locked and the hike can be pretty long. I did see a tree across the river that might have been usable when the river was higher. I no longer see the log on Google satellite so it may be gone now.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/SFSJR.jpg)
We replaced the original summit register because it had been wet for several years. Too bad the new one is wet. When we found it, the canister was not upright and it looked easy for water to get in. I suspect the snow gets very deep up there and in the spring, everything is wet. How many people have signed it?
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/SFSJR2.jpg)
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Oh I see what stump springs road is. It's the alternative to the route we took that leads to the same spot:
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Huntington+Lake,+California/37.4229628,-119.2134122/@37.3022546,-119.2708475,31309m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m9!4m8!1m5!1m1!1s0x8095c5c54ee0b0a3:0x96858a241f74cae5!2m2!1d-119.1826718!2d37.2422827!1m0!3e0 (https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Huntington+Lake,+California/37.4229628,-119.2134122/@37.3022546,-119.2708475,31309m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m9!4m8!1m5!1m1!1s0x8095c5c54ee0b0a3:0x96858a241f74cae5!2m2!1d-119.1826718!2d37.2422827!1m0!3e0)
The way we took was in great condition, fine with my little 2wd hatchback. Except on the way back when the roads were all iced up of course...
Yeah those cracks were super awesome, hard to choose! The one we took was really good, mostly cruiser hands. There was some very new looking bail gear halfway up that pitch..
If, by the western approach, you mean not the cassity bridge trail, but the cross country route that folks take to get to baffoon dome and the very base of balloon dome, then this way is much better for accessing only the upper dome.
Yeah too bad about the register, we could hardly read the latest entries. Even though the cap was on so tight we barely managed to get it off, still was wet inside.. The latest entry I saw was by Kenny Rose and it looks like they did a new east face route, listed as 5.10 A2. There were a good few others since you placed it in 2013 I think it said?
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Thanks for posting this kind of stuff is why I come here. Kenny and friends also approached from stump springs. From his description they did not find the same way as you went and he said they considered hiking out the other side. I did an overnighted to the river from that side years ago and the route i took was better than Kenny’s but worse than Brian’s. I think on the map the road i took led to a Hoffman meadow. if I can find pictures I will try an post them.
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Now I am more curious what Kenny's description sounds like to put it on the "avoid this way" list. That canyon looked really gnarly if you went in a direct line towards the east face from the parking. Brian didn't veer too far East to cross so I wonder what Kenny aimed for. Do we have a winner?
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Brian,
That dike route looks awesome. Do you have a topo of those routes?
Sean
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publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200713900/North-America-United-States-California-Sierra-Nevada-Balloon-Dome-Various-Ascents