Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions

Beyond Southern Yosemite => Beyond Southern Yosemite => Topic started by: mungeclimber on June 24, 2013, 02:17:15 pm

Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on June 24, 2013, 02:17:15 pm
Near Wishon in the front country a few miles in is this excellent formation...

http://www.summitpost.org/hoffman-mountain/225486

Very reminiscent of the ShutEye area...

Red Tail...
(http://www.summitpost.org/images/medium/251020.jpg)
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on June 24, 2013, 03:09:34 pm
I get really confused between Tuolumne's, Mt. Hoffman and Hoffman Mountain. Very cool rock in your photo.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on June 24, 2013, 05:48:19 pm
Very cool munge. Never gone to the left at the fork. That will have to change. Looks awesome!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on June 24, 2013, 07:17:43 pm
Which fork? Rancheria creek? Yeah, super good, chill place to climb and do some new lines.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on June 24, 2013, 08:30:15 pm
All that stuff down the gorge from the damage looks awesome. There is a 1,000' wall in that gorge on both sides.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on June 24, 2013, 10:09:18 pm
 :o  :o

maybe I need to go back and look again!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 06, 2013, 01:04:37 pm
RedTail...

pitch two
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3013/2880456592_af5aca095c_b.jpg)

pitch two
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3182/2879617389_0bd54c786d_b.jpg)

pitch three
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3136/2880444054_059fa23f9c_b.jpg)

going in tomorrow. hit me up tonight if anyone wants to bag an easy line on it.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on September 06, 2013, 06:07:26 pm
PMd you munge. Looks so sweet. Nice to see shuteye'ish rock up that way.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 07, 2013, 11:44:07 pm
Got it done today, even with the late 5am start and getting lost going on Auberry Rd using my driving app I managed to onsight solo a new easy line on Hoffman. It's a LFC on the far right side. Probably 2 long pitches if roped. Full pics coming, but for now...

(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2840/9696355235_f837664915_c.jpg)


The headwall had me thinking about it so far back there, but I had exit options and my experience with Hoffman is that when you need a hold, one will appear.


Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on September 08, 2013, 12:02:28 pm
Sweet! Little more heads up before your next trip and I will be down.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 08, 2013, 12:22:19 pm
cool. Yeah, this was a last minute decision to just go for it after the original group plans lost critical mass.

Trip Report...


A 4am start. Yep, great idea. That will give me enough time to drive, hike in, check out potential lines, and maybe, just maybe do a nice little slab on the right side of the formation.

1am, morning of, wide awake. Change alarm to 5am.

3am, wake from sleep on couch, go upstairs, lie down.

5am. alarm. gah

5:20am get moving throw stuff in truck, half asleep. Double check to make sure I have essentials. Beer, shoes, chalkbag, chapstick, sunscreen, hat, approach shoes, some food, and sunglasses. Good enough.

Morgan Hill. Stomach growls, caffeine calls. Stop.

Hwy 152 starting to wake up. Not much traffic at this time of morning. Make good time.

Gas up in Madera. Use Drive Here app, and get pulled into a back way on Auberry road which seems to cut the 168 loop out nicely. But there are a lot of cyclists in the central valley pre-heat morning. attention is key.

The road to Shaver and up to Wishon is all paved, but long and winding. Eventually rock comes into view...

likely untouched problems...

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3813/9704291330_a36712f71a_c.jpg)

I get a little turned around near the Rancheria TH. But eventually drive past Elderberry bushes to the gate on the Western slope of Hoffman. In 2008, Brutus, Nurse Ratchet and I made a long weekend happen establishing Burninator.

(http://www.summitpost.org/images/medium/445587.JPG)

Such a good time. Great memories.

A slow pack of the bag, clothing choice, footwear choice, and a look at the 7.5 minute map I picked up at the Prather Ranger station, and I'm off like a heard of turtles. Relatively cruiser FS road elevation changes take me to road's end at a lovely meadow with a striking stone set in the middle. The meadow is filled with orange and black butterflies flitting about from flower to flower doing whatever it is that they do with pollen.

From here, I think it's about a half mile to a mile cross country to the approach trail that was established many years prior by the Woodchuck Dumbclucks, a wild and nefarious bunch of First Ascenders who put up many of the first routes on the big South Face.

As I break through the forest, the main formation comes into view.

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5345/9701058357_5796d1eaa4_c.jpg)

Amazing in it's color, as well as texture. The routes here are high quality affairs that in the interest of time, often take advantage of natural protection of the chickenheads, and yet also have bolt protection as needed since the majority of the climbing is on face features. Aside from Morningstar Chimney and the Leversee route, most climbs utilize predominantly face features for ascent.

The 8400 or so foot elevation and the Rim Fire air conditions grind me down in the direct sunlight of the south face approach. It's almost 1:30 or so and I haven't eaten much, and in the excitement I've neglected to drink as much as I should. Typical.

I'm also eyeballing the crag like its the first time there. Everything looks soooo climbable. It's hard not to want to look thru the binos at every square inch. I've already scoped out the next lines I want to do and I'm looking at working my way right to left in the next year. Today though I look for a start to an easy line.  I've been thinking about the features and what I wasn't or was willing to do this far in the front country. But as I get the base and fuel up and recharge, the obvious choice is a bottom to top "LFC" (left facing corner).  The only concern is a headwall at the top. There are ample options to escape right, but doubt exists with whether I'll make the line go as I want.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3702/9704669362_2504cca167_c.jpg)

The climbing looks relatively easy and ripe for someone averse to a ton of risk, like myself. I tell myself, that I can just "Croft" it. Which means, not that I'll send without question, but rather I have a measured approach. Anything I go up, I should be able to downclimb.  Not that Peter ever said that expressly, but it's certainly implied in other things he's said in interviews. I can only imagine that Peter has already been out here. But if he has, he was kind enough to let me bag the First Recorded Ascent.  ;D

(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2840/9696355235_f837664915_c.jpg)

I load up the pack on my back thinking that I'll walk down the opposite, West, side and check opportunities there on the way out. Up I go. About 100' up or so, I get a nice ledge to wiggle my toes, and take a couple pics..

looking down...

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3800/9701058973_34521b5b81_c.jpg)

looking up...

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3809/9704293176_b31b2c6c1a_c.jpg)

The upper headwall is still steep, but options still exist despite the fact that some spots of the corner are fairly large and do not permit an easy step right.

In one section down low, despite the chossy look, the rock is amazing in color and solidity.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7291/9701060265_1d01dd18a4_c.jpg)

The shadows are starting to move faster. I'm at the base of the headwall and letting my eyes adjust to what was just a shadowy wall looking up into the sun until now. The features look good. Pancake flakes with  chickenheads yield a perfect topper to a couple of great pitches of climbing.

Above the headwall, some low angle slabs with loose granite make up the final 50' to the summit trail. From here I change shoes, and take it in.

Finger Rock to the East with more great climbing

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7443/9701060855_0566a1da1e_c.jpg)

To the north Courtright Reservoir invites with it's huge reserve of water. Behind that, Dogtooth Peak. Another objective.

To the south, the prime objective in the region. The Obelisk.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3679/9701061447_9551548a77_c.jpg)

Completely satisfied with hitting the summit, I plan my descent to avoid dropping down and having to rehike the uphill back thru the meadow and the last mile of the road. I head west and down a ridge to join the road further down. This might make for a good approach and alternate camp site, except that water sources are scarce. Perhaps a direct climbers trail could be established with minimal elevation gain or loss. 

Hitting the dirt road I finish my last beer and target some Elderberry bushes in the hopes of adding them to pancakes this weekend. 2lbs later, I load up and head home stopping at McKinley grove of Giant Sequoias.

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7344/9704295500_8318d5dfe7_c.jpg)

Again, the winding road out is somewhat tedious, but I'm rewarded with a glorious sunset from the Rim Fire haze as I drop down the grade below Shaver Lake.

(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2877/9701062665_4daefd2695_c.jpg)

I take a wrong turn into the town of Auberry trying to retrace the route in. In the last light of the setting sun I reverse my path and just take 168 back out.

The Rejuvenator 5.4*** Probably 2 long pitches. So named for the great day I had there, and how a great day in the Sierra can bring you back to full power when life gives you the little things that can really irritate beyond their real importance.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on September 08, 2013, 01:34:49 pm
Awesome TR Munge. Wish I could have joined. Next time.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 08, 2013, 02:41:06 pm
Thx. Definitely!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on September 08, 2013, 05:12:51 pm
Thanks for sharing that trip report, Munge, really enjoyed it!

Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on September 08, 2013, 06:30:41 pm
Nice job munge. This looks like a productive adventure.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 08, 2013, 10:17:49 pm
Thx John and Susan. Yeah, for a single day out, and last minute decision. It worked out exceedingly well.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 16, 2013, 01:10:01 pm
Following last weekend's foray onto the very far right side of Hoffman Mtn. I became completely enamored with getting back there before the snow flew. Work travel, family visit, and a very busy schedule of climbs I wanted to do in October meant I needed to do something fast.

Enter Mucci, stage left. Time? Midweek.

"Hey bro, howz it going?"

Good. Such a good weekend for a day trip. Had to get in there. I couldn't not go in there.

"Yeah, Munge, your pics looked good."

I'm thinking about going back in.




It was done that quick. Lightweight rig planned. Photo sent over with possible lines highlighted. Stoke is correctly pegged on ULTRA HIGH. The plan; hike in Friday night so we can get a bit of jump on the 3 or so miles approach hike. At the last minute, a call with John and Susan happens.

"We're not sure what we're going to do."

Well, there's your problem right there. Pack yer shit. Here's how to get there.

Later that evening...

"oh, wow, you're making good time. We'll be at Chilis in Los Banos eating steak."

Two ribeyes later we head out and make the long drive to Wishon with John and Susan caravanning.

We veto the midnight hike in in favor of catching up and bs'ing as only climbers know how.

The sun seems to rise prematurely, and morning coffee can not come too soon. But eventually my sandbagging succeeds and we're on the trail. Our first objective, just get to the base. It's substantial rise from creek to base. The elevation is a non-trival 8k or so.

John and Susan sample the first pitch of Burninator...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/9775066035_b71d85eaf2_c.jpg)

Mucci and I head up to capture the ineffable sense of adventure that only happens when things are not completely spelled out. 

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/9774898512_05e5450ab6_c.jpg)

New terrain means checking out corners that go glassy slab moves. Instead he moves up and right following weaknesses until a loose block choked massive flake means cutting left. A big span of a reach and very little feat makes the move thought provoking. Hit the corner. Then get gear. Tight hands up a few moves, then hit the belay.

(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/9774900862_c4b86aa4e2_c.jpg)

(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2872/9774884101_8e574c0f5a_c.jpg)

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3733/9775087274_7fe8fe096c_c.jpg)

Definitely that was the technical crux of the route.

A hit off the Gatorita, er, I mean, we should have brought Gatoritas!

(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2846/9775106056_1da8d77b99_c.jpg)

Later that night, back at the ranch, while drinking Gatoritas and thinking about route names the simple, elegant and befitting route name would come to us.

Until then, we were burning daylight in the best way possible. I mean, really, WWBD?

He would aim for this headwall and obvious splitter!  No time to drill, just send!  NO KIT!

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3692/9775080425_a6b12e9b65_c.jpg)

It seemed steep, especially avoiding the big blocks under it. who knows if they would go, but out this far you exercise caution.

Add to that some fairly dark clouds to the east gave character to the Sierra day we embarked on, but they never darkened the rock from their shadows.

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7283/9778687536_dda87b471e_c.jpg)
Mucci Pics

Step over the baby roof and head for superb climbing.

"Hey, uh, Mucci, I'm just going to take it slow and enjoy this. Sorry."
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2848/9778684576_fba319e6d3_c.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7343/9778680426_40deeda43d_c.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7402/9775127782_731610b813_c.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7310/9778495212_0b4bf842fa_c.jpg)

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5335/9775815794_c208816cb4_c.jpg)

Damn that was good.

So we had hiked in, done the approach hike, and done a new FA on stunning rock. Call it a day?

pft! You're nuts. Tons of daylight left and the clouds are breaking up even more and receding to the high country.

Walk down the north side and eyeball a slight cleft in the wall left of the route Rejuvenator that I did last weekend.

Totally looks doable for going thru the orange headwall.

We solo up the easier white granite to a little ledge. I figure it's Mucci's turn to get some orange headwall goodness. Right?

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/9775871134_23fab46005_c.jpg)

Up he goes following this slight greyish feature to the cleft above. But the gear is sporadic hollow and spread out.

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7353/9775862185_106a507af8_c.jpg)

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3711/9775890296_899c71dfe4_c.jpg)

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5539/9775681271_4b309eedab_c.jpg)

After trying to go up and left, testing his pinnacles skills, reason and better rock out right on the black streak takes him through a steep move and the eventual top where the birds and climbers alike are free to roam. Surprisingly this climb is good, but compared to everything else on the wall, so far it's the Worst Route at Hoffman. We are proud to have found it!

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5471/9775675151_13a9b01128_c.jpg)

The Obelisk is a mere telephoto away when seen from the summit.

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7389/9775949274_f9759fdf2b_c.jpg)

We walk down and around and retrieve gear and beers and finish the day watching John climb what is probably Gold Nugget's 2nd or 3rd ascent over on the left side of Red Tail Tower.

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/9775755821_a463822181_c.jpg)

It's long, like 200' long if done from the ground.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3778/9775967586_f40a3abbfa_b.jpg)

(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2847/9775957734_8b4a79e24c_c.jpg)

After that we drop down and make for the creek, some calories, beers and Gatoritas. Without having to carry racks and ropes back up, the next days approach seems reasonable.

Someone may have poored too strong as well, or the elevation was making us light duty because I remember lots of laughs and good times thinking about the day all that it was.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3727/9775973576_a6ae725880_c.jpg)

Good thing we enjoyed the libations since I had not brought a ground pad. Even soft ground is hard. Sleep is a little rough.

Soon enough the sun is up. The cold outside air starts to seem better than laying inside the bag on the ground. Eventually the notion that coffee is ready in 3 minutes gets me moving. I know I'm going to climb another good route today.

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7404/9776054023_1a15d8c9c6_c.jpg)

Some of us are more ready than others.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3737/9775983656_431f65bbbf_c.jpg)

The next day is approaching up to the base of the orange stuff, and trying to go through what seems to be some of the steeper headwall and use weaknesses we think we saw to get up. The hike up just works me. I'm feeling not so great. It's only the potential line that keeps me going, but our original line just up the hill from Burninator seems fraught with blank sections between hollow layback flakes to get up to a place where we would likely have to drill. We opt for a route closer to the Worst Route at Hoffman on the right.

I know there is a line that goes up through this...

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3705/9776005346_29ee932c6b_c.jpg)

Some sparse gear, a neat think crack crux going straight up and some cruiser fun climbing takes me to a belay at the base of the headwall.

(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2817/9778660904_4bc8409735_c.jpg)

The color here is phenomenal. Mucci takes the steeps...

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3824/9775789862_502b353631_c.jpg)


(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5541/9775778681_2ac232ea48_c.jpg)

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5505/9775797542_55406e1797_c.jpg)

clean gear all the way

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5446/9776075843_6d406690b5_c.jpg)

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5513/9775992824_dfcb18d04e_c.jpg)

The top...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7459/9775796681_c80b383824_c.jpg)

Completely happy, but somewhat thinking it would be nice to do one more, we head down to shoes and see how things are going on the other side. Apparently, one of the best routes ever has just been done. :)

This elation of climbing some amazing stone seems to produce the silliest of nostalgic looks back at the end of the day.
We all do it.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/9776011766_76645ba81c_c.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7351/9775798071_e338507718_c.jpg)

We make a leisurely pace to camp, but once packed we beat feet down to the trucks where there are cold beers.

A stunning place, new routes, amazing stone, no crowd, and great friends. Couldn't have had a better time. Brutus would have been proud.

On the way out the Elderberries make me think of Burninator Jam.

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7322/9776013076_1b9e99b097_c.jpg)

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3436/3197925357_9bffb661b9_b.jpg)


Original Topos for Hoffman that we'll look to update with a listing here, me thinks.

http://www.summitpost.org/hoffman-mountain/225486
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on September 16, 2013, 03:39:04 pm
Nice guys. Awesome that you made it back up there. Can't wait to see the full report.

I find it funny how we are all on this site during the week and then come days off, crickets........
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 16, 2013, 03:55:27 pm
No time to post when climbing... or no cell reception back thar...  8)

Least wise we got a crew of folks that really appreciate seeing this more obscure stuff.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: NateD on September 16, 2013, 05:31:14 pm

Least wise we got a crew of folks that really appreciate seeing this more obscure stuff.

You got that right! Thanks.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 16, 2013, 05:33:52 pm
I both love and hate the spellcheck on this forum.

Random post for thread.

Will finish up more tonight.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on September 16, 2013, 05:39:50 pm
Nice! Liking the cliff hanging additions to your reporting too.

We had a great time! If I can just get our photos uploaded we'll have to add some soon. 
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on September 16, 2013, 06:36:08 pm
This place was awesome and you can't beat the company we were with. Not too many backwoods formations end up being as good as this place did. Thanks so much for sharing, Munge.

It is really fun to finally see these photos on the big screen too. I had a "this is so cool we can do this" moment at camp when we were swapping three digital cameras between each other, sharing and comparing three unique angles of the same day, then hooting and hollering about them. So awesome to be able to do that. Remember back when you had to wait for the film to come back from the lab to see your photos? And you had to pace how many rolls of film you were using too? Gotta love digital cameras.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 16, 2013, 09:19:25 pm
hahaha, that was a blast.

I'm hurting today. So if pain is weakness leaving the body, I'm fricking so tough today!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 16, 2013, 11:06:44 pm
I'm sure I'm leaving out details. It's hard to put into words how special that place is. Closer to the road and it would be ravaged. Where it is, it just makes the journey more special.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on September 17, 2013, 07:00:21 am
Every time I get on here there are more pics. Man that sounds like a stellar trip. I have a little jealousy.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 17, 2013, 07:45:37 am
It really was. Makes me wish I lived closer to it!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on September 17, 2013, 07:51:08 am
That label is hilarious! I never actually read it.

We need to get on the ball and add some shots too.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 17, 2013, 11:14:42 am
:)  You should see the Syrup jar from 08. It has the Burninator dragon with consummate Vs.

http://youtu.be/90X5NJleYJQ

Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on September 17, 2013, 01:25:15 pm
So many great shots! Favorites include the one you point out where the color is phenomenal and Mucci takes the steeps...
Beautiful the way the rock and color fans out there.








 


 
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: YETI on September 17, 2013, 02:56:12 pm
Wow, looks good all wrapped up in that nice TR Burrito!

Some of the best stone out there.

There is an obvious 'feel' when you get there.  Adventure is high and those that came before treaded light on hardware, on the few routes that needed it.

 

Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on September 17, 2013, 08:41:10 pm
Should I split off the Wishon post into a separate Hoffman post or keep it as is? I can split it where the existing material is transferred to two posts but further Hoffman material can be added to the Hoffman post. Hmmm?
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 17, 2013, 08:56:10 pm
yeah, was thinking it was awkward to drill down to the thread. I could see wanting to do more TRs for the region, but wouldn't want to stack them in the same thread necessarily.

I got some pics from the 2008 trip from Em today. Trying to review them now, but something is wrong with the disc.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on September 18, 2013, 12:31:56 am
So we got lucky to hitch a caravan to Hoffman last minute with these guys.

Here are Yeti and Munge ready for the hike
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060271_zps4de32d69.jpg)

It was a beautiful day, perfect temps, and clear trail
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060277_zps7ef3b027.jpg)

I'd never met an Elderberry before
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060274_zps4c5ba99a.jpg)

They were a little bitter yet or I'd have gathered more. This is one of the many attractions for me to Hoffman, having heard of the bounty here, and the stories Munge tells us of great times with wonderful
people he has been here with before.

(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060275_zpse19ee21b.jpg)

We made it to camp and lightened our loads, pumped some water, and set out for the steep approach to the climbs, taking short breathers along the way. The altitude changes were mostly enjoyable - a champagne-like buzz of light-headedness and the world seems to glow more brightly.

(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060290_zps9eb357fd.jpg)

Finally Hoffman comes into view in all its glory. We check our topos to i.d. the striking and recommended routes, possible raps, and can't help reading between the lines. Lots of What's This and What's That's
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060288_zps2859819f.jpg)

We opt for Burninator as our first climb, and John ties in to lead the very impressive first pitch with its polished crux. We could hear the guys to the right having a great time but couldn't see them. 

(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060294_zps75f2e0f0.jpg)


Back on the ground we set our sights on this pinnacle which looks playful and seemed to yield good gear and did: right-facing crack at right face steered left towards center, up over a small roof then up over the very center of the pinnacle to climb up a bolted route behind it which goes through a short headwall to a rap anchor. Rating 5.7 or 5.8 on the pinnacle.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060418_zpsf51c2acc.jpg)


The views were stunning of rock and forests
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060308_zpsbf3f3999.jpg)

And the rock was beautiful, calico colored, solid and clean
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060313_zpsebe8a7f1.jpg)


So many clean features and knobs you couldn't decide where to protect as fast as climb
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060319_zps633a5294.jpg)


Finished off the day on a 5 star route called Gold something. It was a line so good, I couldn't help imagining the group of people who put it up, and felt very thankful for what they left behind.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060337_zpsbffe0a39.jpg)


Afterwards, and in no time, we were back at camp getting fresh water, cold beers, enjoying the creek and the company
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060339_zps05a0e2ad.jpg)


Nightfall we all had dinners of Mountain House Beef Stroganoff, and other treats, more beer, and gatoritas, while conversation and silliness grew louder. At one point we heard an odd noise like the sound of someone yahooing for attention. Sounded human until another couple rounds, it was clearly a coyote's cries.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060343_zps36ab8a3c.jpg)


Cold night but next day was again perfect if windy. We opted for another playful-looking line up the center of the left side of the formation including another pinnacle.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060408_zps8af22f62.jpg)

Starting in a chimney.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060348_zpsf73020d0.jpg)

Partly due to a good belay situation in the shade of the tip of the pinnacle, we set up a 2nd belay atop the chimney on stacked blocks which we just had to be a little careful of... then John continued up the face, hammer on hip but the gear turned out great.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060350_zps8f5ee148.jpg)

And the rock beautiful
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060376_zps3e8b703c.jpg)

The first pitch was about 5.6 or so, and this pitch was 5.8 or so.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060377_zps10eb931c.jpg)


I wanted to lead and initially set out on the 3rd pitch, checking a few different directions, but soon turned back wanting a bolt or two to proceed through the polished rock which was steep and offered no available gear in sight for a ways. Not wanting to drill if we didn't have to, and in the interest of time, John led us through the third pitch with only one bolt needed. This leaves the climb right now with a runout rating between our hanging belay and this bolt. We will have to revisit to reclimb the route, belaying this section from much lower down, and see if he wants to do something about that a second time up and if we are off on these ratings.


I was at this hanging belay knowing John was in a no-fall zone, and glad he looked at ease. I think he rates this pitch 5.9. Though maybe because I'm shorter, I feel 10a is fair warning.
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060384_zps1782ef66.jpg)

Snapped a few more shots all around while he hammered away, amazed at the gorgeous rock and classic new route. See the pinnacle directly below?
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060382_zpscda89cac.jpg)

Wondering what surrounds
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060383_zpsd4f832b2.jpg)

One more mellow pitch and we rapped
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060386_zps7f5dec6f.jpg)

Never topped out on Hoffman yet, but think we must have been almost there anyway.... saving it for a future visit when it will be nice to see the views on the other side
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060392_zps5cc41c5c.jpg)

Heading back, we did all keep taking appreciative long looks back at Hoffman, trying to recap what we had done, wondering its other secrets
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060413_zps26b8dfc7.jpg)


Beautiful Hoffman with a fun-loving easy crew - What a great time!
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060416_zps87af7264.jpg)


Thank you so much for sharing the place with us guys!
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p707/sgodar1/P1060425_zpsccc1d9c6.jpg)
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: NateD on September 18, 2013, 09:01:19 am
Sweet!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 18, 2013, 09:30:37 am
nice!!!

was the pic of burninator after the rap. I think I see the bolts, but they aren't clipped.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mike a on September 18, 2013, 09:55:32 am
looks like a great place, and the obelisk :-), i have been wanting to go there for years!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 18, 2013, 10:21:57 am
no doubt Mike!  The Obelisk has an amazing location, history, and good rock.

I keep thinking I'd start my hike after coming in via the Spanish Lakes OHV road.  But it may be easier to walk in from Rancheria, etc.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on September 18, 2013, 10:38:21 am
Yes, that must have been a quick last minute snapshot of Burninator after climbing and cleaning it.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on September 18, 2013, 10:43:55 am
XXX rick porn there. Nice!

Munge, update the topo???
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 18, 2013, 12:17:40 pm
XXX rick porn there. Nice!

Munge, update the topo???

Yeah, we're working on updates on the side. Not sure if we should bother with SummitPost since I didn't find an easy way to update the page. They've changed the UI since the last time I made any changes over there.

Probably looking at two topos. Central and Right.

Also, an updated list of routes with the basic info is forthcoming.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 21, 2013, 08:53:41 am
Bill Mc's TR

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hoffman-Mountain-a-little-backcountry-cragging/t11188n.html
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on September 23, 2013, 06:35:10 am
I was looking at the SEKI guide this weekend and noticed that Finger Rock is in there but Hoffman is not. I find that to be interesting since they are so close together and Hoffman is so much larger. That was my only thought for the weekend....carry on.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 23, 2013, 07:29:07 am
Both are in the Secor guides now, fwiw.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on September 23, 2013, 09:06:42 am
Oh, good to know. We don't have the Secor Guide.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on September 23, 2013, 11:46:33 am
Nice, Bill Mc's TR!

Hunting season is in full swing again tho - we saw so many people in that neck of the woods carrying rifles, wearing camo and yet bright orange too.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on May 27, 2014, 11:41:41 pm
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5519/14102226557_5e770587ab_b.jpg)

Pic of the lines we did on the right side of Hoffman in 2013.

Planning on going back this year to do a couple more on that side. September or October time frame is the goal.

Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on May 28, 2014, 12:23:09 pm
heck maybe now is the time to be in there?

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-118.92114&lat=36.97590#.U4Y4LaNOW04

Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on May 28, 2014, 01:38:41 pm
Looks perfect. The roads only opened in the last two weeks or so. Are you suggesting an early-season trip?
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on May 28, 2014, 02:26:13 pm
I talk big, but backpacking gear needs sorting.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on May 28, 2014, 02:29:44 pm
If life works I would be down to go.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on May 28, 2014, 02:40:49 pm
hmmm, what about a day trip Daveytree? Early start, go ultra light, come out after dark?

Maybe do some acclimating at Courtright Saturday, then Hoffman Sunday?

man, I talk big. Let me think on this before I commit. I've got some other stuff I should do first.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on May 28, 2014, 03:42:54 pm
No hurry. I also have projects. But when you do go I would be up for it.

It is funny, I was just talking to Macronut this morning at the gym about wanting to go up there. Stoke!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on May 28, 2014, 11:33:30 pm
It is nice camping up there. Have you never been there in the spring, Munge or Dingus? Lotta nice routes already established on the left side to climb if memory serves.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on May 29, 2014, 08:55:59 am
Not spring. Em said they always had good luck with the skeets in the Autumn, so Spring never came up.

That's why I was thinking a day trip to check skeet conditions.

I don't like blood suckers, nor mosquitos.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on May 29, 2014, 09:07:12 am
If poison oak could fly, that's skeeters to me. But usually only dawn and dusk.Long lightweight clothes and or a lightweight tent help better than insecticides. Breezy conditions are a good sign.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: YETI on May 29, 2014, 11:17:41 am
I am down for the autumn.

One of the best trips I have had.

Seriously.

Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on May 29, 2014, 04:31:59 pm
Autumn for sure. So into the ridge now. Maybe higher country this year too.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on May 29, 2014, 04:52:24 pm
Labor Day Weekend +/- a weekend.

Making it a 4 day weekend means we could do a day playing on Finger Rock too.

Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on May 29, 2014, 04:56:26 pm
We are not available that weekend tho.  :o
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on May 29, 2014, 06:06:27 pm
what's more important!?!!?!  :P
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on May 29, 2014, 06:32:07 pm
If scheduled ahead I can do almost any weekend.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on July 29, 2014, 10:59:21 pm
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3009/2881588936_7d23451c24_z.jpg)

Just thinking about menu ideas...
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: Dave on July 31, 2014, 06:42:24 pm
On the radar.....target acquired and locked! This is finally the year I get there!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 15, 2014, 06:27:33 pm
Found some pics of Hoffman and Finger Rock by a J. Ryan.

Hoffman (wet) looking at SW side.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8040/7908646624_141085096c_b.jpg)

East Face of Finger Rock
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8182/7908674598_4f2a339a2f_h.jpg)
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on September 15, 2014, 06:33:51 pm
Nice perspectives from both those photos. @ Finger Rock, is that mostly bird poo or calcification, do you think, under the big roof?
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 15, 2014, 06:35:36 pm
Calcified Poo
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on September 15, 2014, 07:26:35 pm
Damn Finger Rock looks steep. Can't tell from Hoffman.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on September 15, 2014, 07:31:18 pm
BTW that climb Golden Nugget on Hoffman is one of the best climbs in the Sierras. Gorgeous rock and super duper long, like 200'.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on September 15, 2014, 07:36:12 pm
Any topos to be had for Finger? SEKI just mentions it but nothing too detailed. Woundering what has/has not been done?
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 16, 2014, 11:12:07 am
http://www.summitpost.org/finger-rock/490043 is the best source that is public.

Nurse Ratchet *may* have topos, and certainly knows more about where the lines go.

Would love to see her post up more details.

I'd be up for a Finger Rock trip too.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on September 16, 2014, 12:22:36 pm
Any topos to be had for Finger? SEKI just mentions it but nothing too detailed. Woundering what has/has not been done?


Is Hoffman in SEKI? I haven't looked.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on September 16, 2014, 12:38:32 pm
Negatory. It's in the Secor guide though.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on November 11, 2015, 10:29:49 pm
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hoffman-Mountain-in-the-snow/t12868n.html
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on November 12, 2015, 06:22:33 am
That is really cool. Glad it didn't get burnt.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: splitclimber on November 19, 2015, 04:51:30 pm
better late than never

Golden Tower
(https://nattie.smugmug.com/Vacations/SNOWBOARDCLIMB/Hoffman-Mountain-and/i-PZ5G5zd/0/XL/140828NC-140828IMG_9397-XL.jpg)

view of the Obelisk
(https://nattie.smugmug.com/Vacations/SNOWBOARDCLIMB/Hoffman-Mountain-and/i-JK92D9V/0/XL/140828NC-140828IMG_0240-XL.jpg)

Finger Rock
(https://nattie.smugmug.com/Vacations/SNOWBOARDCLIMB/Hoffman-Mountain-and/i-3N5WJ9Z/0/XL/140828NC-140828IMG_0247-XL.jpg)

Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on November 19, 2015, 06:42:01 pm
YESH!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: susan on November 19, 2015, 11:07:44 pm
Beautiful!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on November 20, 2015, 09:15:43 am
I love that place.

This is from this year? How close did the Rough Fire get if so?
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: splitclimber on November 20, 2015, 10:13:01 am
that was last year.  I always question my wife when she brings her slr  camera on climbs, but then when I see the pics I understand why. :)
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on November 20, 2015, 10:42:20 am
that was last year.  I always question my wife when she brings her slr  camera on climbs, but then when I see the pics I understand why. :)

I hear you on the stress of bringing an SLR. At least the cases have shoulder slings.  I have brought my phone as the camera in the past and I found that to be the worst since it can easily get cracked by getting bumped by gear and there is no sling or way to clip it.

Our friend dropped his phone off of about the second or third pitch of Birdland in Red Rocks. Dead. He got on Craigslist on his partners phone, drove into town and bought a used phone, popped in his SIM card, back in business in like two hours and only cost something like $100!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on February 22, 2021, 03:23:14 pm
I don't know wtf happened to mtn project, but it looks like they pulled all the Hoffman pics and topos that Bruce posted.


Fuk! They pulled Brutus' profile so it looks like all his content has been pulled as well.


mtn project is a turd on a pile of turds.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: John on February 22, 2021, 05:20:57 pm
That sucks. Wayback Machine only shows two routes for Hoffman in October which is all I see now. I feel like there weren't many routes on there in the first place but a kinda remember a bunch of topos in the pics representing much more.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on February 22, 2021, 06:45:40 pm
It was just the original routes, but there was a pic of Burninator I enjoyed going back to.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on February 23, 2021, 10:23:29 am
I contacted a moderator on MP that I know and he says he will check into it.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on February 23, 2021, 05:00:46 pm
The word from MP is that no content or accounts have been deleted. I am also told that somebody has been logging into the Bruce Bindner account which I guess is the one in question. Whoever it is has been making some changes.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on February 23, 2021, 09:11:33 pm
The site landlord has disabled the account and marked him deceased
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on February 26, 2021, 07:57:14 am
Bummer they wiped out his uploads.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on February 28, 2021, 10:11:19 pm
Sorry to hear that. Do you have copies of it?
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on March 05, 2021, 08:40:01 pm
I think so. Most of the routes were included in Dwights book.
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: Nanobody on March 06, 2021, 11:46:17 am
The original Brutus topos are still on SummitPost

https://www.summitpost.org/hoffman-mountain/225486
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: mungeclimber on March 09, 2021, 08:10:25 pm
Oh snap, maybe that’s where they were. I haven’t been on sp in years. Thx!!
Title: Re: Hoffman Mountain
Post by: DaveyTree on April 08, 2021, 04:37:16 pm
With the fire, I may find may up there this year.