Soyo for the 4th of July Weekend?

[YETI]

Ha@!  Yeah, just keepin up with the jones'es..

Bit of history.  Greg V. was a wide receiver for Penn State Football.  I asked if he got diddled,  he said "no, I was way too fast"


Of course this is coming from my hardman mentor, Chuck who lives with him in ridgecrest.

Classic.

[susan]

Tx Munge. I mean the one from 90, tho.

Bombs, well, please don't bring down the McD's. They are some of the coolest and kindest of people, and I don't think they would act merely unapologetic if ever confronted with any specific case. Seems best to deal with these sorts of issues first directly if at all possible.
 

[daniel banquo merrick]

Nate-

Researching articles in old climbing magazines is really hard. There are some indexes out there though.

Clint (far out of date)
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/magindex/index.htm

More
http://www.vcrux.com/eGuides/

Some I have (linked by Clint)
http://danielmerrick.com/ClimbingIndexes/

I have copies of Climbing 140 to 207 (Oct 93 to Nov 01). I quit getting it then and haven't looked at it since.

I have copies of Rock and Ice 62 to 119 (July 94 Nov 02). Quit that too.

I have copies of Summit from fall 92 to winter 96 when it died.

Used to keep photo copies of soyo articles from the mags and had a small pile of them but can't find it.

[mike a]

morning all, i have that july 1990 rock & ice write up on shuteye on my pix i put on the fresno dome part of this web site, check it out, if you can blow up the pix you will see old routes on high eagle as well as on dreamscapre area, hope this was helpful, happy climbing mike a.

[John]

Hi Mike, thanks for posting that article.

BTW, the climb "Dreaming In Color" that you mentioned on Dreamscape is most likely a Jack Holmgren/Mike Bosco route called "Hawk Tower Buttress -5.7 and they used no bolts since they were not required on such featured rock. Jack described it as being on the left side of the formation and trended to the right. He even has a crude topo that matches quite well. That particular formation was also named "Hawk Tower Buttress", not "REM Tower" as you will probably see in the new guide.

There is another route there on the central formation of the Dreamscape area now called "Dream Weaver" that is clearly the route in that R&I article called "Prince of Darkness". When you start climbing POD, which I doubt the author of DW did, you immediately run into DW. There is even an original bolt that was totally ignored and is still there. I encourage people to check it out themselves.

Actually, all of Dreamscape was originally named Gavilan Cliffs by Holmgren and partner(s) but that article in R&I probably influenced it's change. The name seems to have stuck.

[mike a]

morning, yes thats what grahm told me last on my fb as well, so i am sure tom and grahm both have seen this article in r&i as well, so if they know adout the old info, why did tom call it the r.e.m. tower???, i guess it's like the aerie dome, i first heard it called ierie dome, but when the article was being put together it was misprinted to aerie dome and it's stuck ever since, but aerie makes more since anyway with most of the domes having a eagle theme, and i heard cat nap dome was first  called kansas dome or something like that, but not cat nap, anyway, hope you liked what i posted, cheers arechhiga.

[John]

How it is all portrayed in the final guide is what I am most interested in.

[susan]

Thanks for posting that article Mike. Can't really make out the route detail on the High Eagle Dome photo but  the original will probably be clear.

Like a wish we could keep, Vernon captured something often echoed about the place where he states: "Dreams are made of places like Shuteye Ridge, where the rock and forest and the eagle blend with the pure blue California sky; where climbing is as it should be: peaceful and untouched by the braying of the over-competitive."

[NateD]

Mike,
In case you hadn't seen it, the crude original topo Jack Holmgren made for Dreamscape is here in the downloads section of the site: http://southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/index.php?topic=45.0

I hadn't tracked Jack down until after Slater had been active out at Dreamscape and broadcasted the climbs he did out there. In truth, all of us are "guilty" of advertising the "secrets" of the area in one way or another.

[susan]

We have to share info now a days. Can't escape it. Guilty if you do, guilty if you don't.

[mike a]

hi all, not me!!! not mike the mouth :-), i only had totalclimbingonline web site that mega spray all the new stuff on gold/electric eagle back in 2003/2004, and the topos of the place i posted on my site, and O yah my books to shuteye and fresno dome, bysides that, i have been pretty much hush hush about southern yosemite lol :-)

[NateD]

Ha! I still have your mega spray shuteye topos from totalclimbingonline taped into my Spencer guide, Mike!

Shhh, don't tell anyone...