Current Conditions

[susan]

Tx Mike A.! Good seeing you & Polly too.

Did you get out there this week? Saw weather moved in and stayed a night or two?

[mike a]

Morning, yes I went climbing the other day it was hot up there, way cooler today, temps up there Sat/Sun in the 40's and a chance of snow Mon/Tues.

[susan]

Ugg sounds cold. Thanks for the report. Zany forecast lately of rapidly changing spring conditions. Watch out for mucky dirt roads. We've noticed a few roads with deep ruts.

[susan]

Specifically I should have said that I was thinking of the main dirt toad that goes from Fresno Dome to Beasore Road. We stopped short of going that way due to deep muddy ruts developing there. That and a thicker layer of snow that others appeared to have made it through, making the ruts...

What a cool day it was yesterday at Fresno Dome ensconced in fog with sometimes light hail and snow flurries and the sun trying to come though at times still. Almost whiteout conditions with my climbing partner obscured by fog... Saturday was sunny tho.

p.s. haha dirt toad

[DaveyTree]

There definitely seemed to be some weather brewing. I love getting into weird weather. What did you climb?

[susan]

We climbed Whiskey Bill Saturday and Watership Down. On Whiskey Bill this time we strung together p1&2 and p3&4 which worked out great. Sunday we did Fresno Flats while our friends climbed Guides in a Snowbank, and then the unnamed 5.8 on the west face of FD and then Old School. On FF we also strung together p2&3 w/our 70 meter and it worked fine making it just barely a full 70.

Last time we did Poking Papa Bear and I liked especially the 2nd pitch! That was a long pitch with some neat positioning and just mellow. The other pitches are short but good except P3 which is mainly a ledge hike over some loose rock to be very careful to keep from knocking off and w/ a short bit of 5.6y scramble. I do recommend it.

[DaveyTree]

Nice. You guys were busy. What's John's rule; Any day with 3p or more is a good one?

The last time I did Watership Down we did it in 2p. P1 to the cave and the second I moved out on the face because the book was wet. Never found a dry spot until the big block before the anchor ledge. For whatever reason I didn't think to traverse over to the bolts but instead ran it out to the anchor. Def. gave me I mind game running out the entire 2p.

[susan]

Definitely would feel sketchy if it was just too slick to get near where it could protect! Good work holding it together so well you didn’t need the bolt tho what were you thinking? 😀

I led P1 and then John led the next. Then I got the Rowsby Wolf slanting crack pitch which was very cool. My issues from the getgo were we brought with us for the day only a rack of singles to 3” not thinking of what for sure we would end up climbing...

Starting WD I didn’t want to use up the biggest pieces of gear until absolutely necessary tho at the start I would’ve liked bigger pieces. John told me I could’ve taken a crack on the face on the left a little ways but I kept to the corner. Enjoyed where it thins down to real jams for a bit! Somehow managed to get to the belay with Camelot’s #1red, 2 gold and 3 blue left on my harness funny enough.

That slamming crack pitch on RW is very recommendable by the way...

[DaveyTree]

Hahaha. The first P is definitely interesting to protecting. I remember at one point I had to turn facing away from the rock to reach far enough in to sling a hole I found that I could feel but not see. We had backpacks on so I had to take my pack off to fit.

I haven't done the slanting crack of RW. Are you talking about the OW or the one that goes up and then left left under the roof type feature?

[mike a]

Great job guy's I climbed at Fresno Dome Sunday and it was like 30 degrees colder then last Wednesday Brrrrrrr, snowing up there today, but nice and warm this weekend :-).

[susan]

I do mean that crack under the roof, Dave, for Rowsby. Way to find that placement on WD p1!


Mike A I wonder where you were climbing Sunday - seems we should’ve seen you at FD.

[mike a]

Hi I was at lost in the forest area Sunday with a couple friend brrrr and they were at Hawk Dome Saturday, I am super psyched the weather will be awesome this week! after John told me about the route next to Lava Lamp at No Name would like to check that out this weekend, and John told me about a route at Fresno Dome a couple routes to the left of Whiskey Bill, I have never done it sounds fun, maybe see you two up there this weekend! ps heard the gate is open at 6s42/central camp Rd at Beasore Rd!

[mungeclimber]

https://sierranewsonline.com/dui-driver-license-checkpoint-in-oakhurst-area-this-weekend/
 
This weekend. Best to avoid the traffic jam these cause in any event.

[susan]

Funny that’s posted under current conditions, is this up there with foul weather, roads & skeeters?

[mike a]

hi all, was up at the balls yesterday, awesome weather, but tree work and road work up there, and some one bolting new 5.easy routes on the left side of no name ridge can still see the bolt dust on them?, so thinking of getting a look see sunday, and stopped at the jones store for pie and burgs yummmmm :-) hope to see you guys up there this season!