Mammoth Pools Area Mystery Climbs-Seeking FA Information

[John]

Here is my list of "Unknown" labeled climbs for the Mammoth Pools Area. These are climbs that I do not have any information on besides some evidence that it was climbed, like anchors, bolts, etc.  The worst downside of Unknown climbs is the lack of a name, but I would prefer to also know who first climbed it and when. I am also listing climbs that are Unnamed, since sometimes climbs were named but the FAists on record are not reachable.

Please send me a message if anyone recognizes these climbs and has any info. Thanks, John

Mammoth Pools Dome

1-Unknown- Route starting below "That Little Strapless Number", heading left into to the cracks. One old bolt with new, shiny one installed a couple inches next to it.

2-Unknown-Face route at top of dam; the left-most of three at top of dam. Old rusty bolts into a mossy face.

3-Unknown 10+ - Face route at top of dam; middle of three at top of dam. Old rusty bolts to fixed bars from construction of dam.

[mungeclimber]

3-Unknown 10+ - Face route at top of dam; middle of three at top of dam. Old rusty bolts to fixed bars from construction of dam.

John, obviously I don't have FA info, but when we TR'd this one, the second clip is incredibly hard going straight up from first clip. If I had to speculate, I'd think the second bolt was placed by hero loop from the first. That might indicate style, and thus narrow down who put it in?

In any event, in TR'ing it, I climbed straight up to first, then right, then back left to "faux clip" then trended up and right to the bars. That seemed like the natural line if one were leading it, rather than just gunning straight up to the third clip.  I saw the third one, but didn't measure the height relative to the bars to confirm this approach.

Anyways, might help with drawing a topo for it later.

[John]

Thanks Munge.
All of those details help for leads as to who may have done a route. I believe I noticed that the first bolt is a 5/16" and the second a 1/4" on that one, both big-hole Leepers.
Did you like it?

[NateD]

TRd those 10s (part of the leftmost) from just below the edge of the dam many years ago (15 now, wow time flies) and they sure were mank then. Very dirty rock. Is the rock cleaner down lower around the side where I presume you've been active, John and Susan?

[John]

If the definition of "cleaner" is not having crazy metal spikes and hardware sticking out of the rock everywhere to get skewered on, then no, it is not cleaner.

Get your tetanus shots before climbing down there.

[mungeclimber]

Thanks Munge.
All of those details help for leads as to who may have done a route. I believe I noticed that the first bolt is a 5/16" and the second a 1/4" on that one, both big-hole Leepers.
Did you like it?

I liked the 5.7 Ringtail, but I'm not sure about that 5.10. Maybe it the bolts were new I might be inclined to try and lead it up to the bars. Beyond that, not sure. Looks mossy.

[susan]

Nate - To answer your question, is the rock cleaner lower down the dome - I think so, albeit for the quality of rock of barely traveled routes. On the face of it, there's not nearly as much moss. Desolate beauty to the landscape.

[Duey_lenyo]

One of the routes just below the edge of the dam was out up by Robert Caron and Andy Church (me) in 1987 or 1988. One or two bolts I hand drilled with a hammer and chisel on a sketchy stance about 20 feet up, then up over the crux to an easy slab. About 60 feet to the top. Maybe some bars to tie off on? I don't remember. We thought it was 5.10c at the time. About 10 years later we came back and tried to repeat it. It seemed harder, or maybe we were just older and fatter.

We put up another thing farther down the wall. Easy crack along the edge of a broken up leaning slab to some hard face climbing. I put in one bolt on lead with a hammer and chisel. Harder face above leading to a good ledge to belay. Lots of falling getting to the ledge. My brother, Dan Church finally pulled the last moves to get us to the ledge. A hard left facing corner with small fingers for another pitch or so. The angle eases off quickly. Lots of moss and dirt. We thought it was about 5.10d or 5.11a at the time.

[mungeclimber]

Cool. I think I toproped the one right below the lip of the dam using the bars after leading the 5.7 that is just above the lip. Felt hard.

[John]

Duey_lenyo-
Thanks for speaking up about your routes.

The 10c you describe sounds like the one immediately left of "Ringtail" which is the route that most people are familiar with which ends at the U-shaped bar. It went up in 1988 so you should have seen it on the second trip down there. Sound correct? I was going to replace the bolts on your route but they were the amazingly strong 5/16" buttonheads with Leeper hangers so I didn't want to mess with those at the time. Maybe this year.

Did your other route down the hill have one protection bolt to reach the ledge at the base of the corner and only one anchor bolt? Was the corner really prominent, like the only attractive left-facing corner on the wall?

And most importantly.......do you have names for these climbs?

Thanks!

[NateD]

Welcome, and great to get this info finally, Andy! Thanks for finding the site and chiming in. Feel free to share any other route info for the region. 


Sounds like the latter route is the prominent left facing corner (p2), which has been climbed and cleaned up in recent years.

[susan]

Andy, It is so cool to hear answers to mysteries like this, especially straight from the person who put up the climb. It is a fun spot and I enjoyed tr'ing there too. What a heady lead and tough FA. Maybe we can get a photo up or one may already be up to refer to regarding the other line.

Wonder what else you and/or others you know have done out there. You been getting out there recent years? 

[John]

The "20 feet up on a sketchy stance" sounds more like the leftmost of the two mystery lines now that I think about it.

Two bolts marked in yellow:

[mike a]

Morning, was at Mammoth Pools Dome yesterday climbed a bit and finished the day by walking all the way around the dome I saw lots of newer bolted routes all with the same color tan hangers newer looking bolts, any info on these routes? thanks happy climbing Mike A.

[mungeclimber]

Hi Mike, I think we talked about the shorty lines we put in on the road that's on top of the main dam (after the spillway and around)… so you're talking about the tan hangers being down on the lower part of the dome? cool. I haven't been down there but for a quick look.

Fishing with Fruit is newish, but don't think it has been completed yet. John and Susan have the beta. I have video of the fishing tho!