What are the earliest ascents in Southern Yosemite?

[John]

The first true "wave" of climbing in the area seems to be in the early 70's. That really translates to the first recorded wave. The term "wave" is laughable in contrast to the numbers of people out there on a single weekend now. There were earlier visits here and there but not many recordings.

I find it interesting that one of the earliest recorded ascents in the entire area (outside of Yosemite NP) is the summit of Balloon Dome in 1942, recorded by a carving on a stick found on the summit of a later ascent. Such a grand formation and so "out there" for 1942 better yet today.

You would think there were earlier ascents of Fresno Dome, Wawona, etc., or otherwise places in plain view from higher traffic areas. Some of these ascents would not be technical ascents with gear and ropes, but a recordable summit nonetheless. The summit of Balloon Dome can be reached by hiking yet is a proud and spectacular summit to reach by any means.

Without looking around much, these are a couple of earlier ones I can think of;

Mt Starr King - 1931
EDIT: FA:1876-The register was placed in 1931

Hawk Dome-1962

What ascents am I forgetting? Any earlier rumored ascents people have run across?

[NateD]

Without summit registers on many formations, it sure is hard to know, isn't it?

Seeing as many of the crags and domes at the Balls are not technical summits, and close to the road, I would imagine quite a few folks scrambled up to the tops from behind long ago. Same goes for Squaw (Piyau) Dome (no summit register there still, right?), Jackass, and presumably Fuller Buttes. Also, can't imagine Eagle Beaks weren't summitted prior to any of the technical ascents.

It's interesting that Hawk Dome, a technical summit, did have a register prior to 1970, but is not longer there according to others.

I don't know of any rumored ascents, but I bet talking to the old fellow up at the Shuteye lookout would provide some good leads for rumored ascents by folks who may still be around to tell the tale. I hear he's quite the historian - and I can't recall his name at the moment.

[John]

The guy in the fire lookout is a local history buff? Cool. I have never met him or heard that.

I always think of Ger's chance meeting of Jack Delk and figure others might bump into some oldtimers out there with a story about some older-timer ascent and could share what they heard.

[mungeclimber]

So John or Nate, which FA'rs have you not been able to get in touch with?

[John]

So John or Nate, which FA'rs have you not been able to get in touch with?

Mostly the Fa'rs that didn't tell anyone that they were FA'rs. Most of the documented FA'rs have been helpful and forthcoming......with some understandable memory loss here and there.

[NateD]

Over the years I've tracked down almost everyone I've tried to get in touch with. Haven't tried the Black brothers, Mike Graber, Fred Beckey... or Jack Delk, yet.

[mungeclimber]

Dingus had talked to Mike Graber

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1871450&msg=1872182#msg1872182

[John]

Good luck reaching Beckey!

[susan]

Whoaa, Ed's photo of Soyo and Slater's of Balloon dome covered in snow and ice are spectacular.

Also, though not that long ago, didn't Dingus Milktoast and Brutus climb a line in the Great Depression?

[NateD]

Whoaa, Ed's photo of Soyo and Slater's of Balloon dome covered in snow and ice are spectacular.

Also, though not that long ago, didn't Dingus Milktoast and Brutus climb a line in the Great Depression?

Brutus told me he only climbed Wing Feather with Matt, and wanted to get back there to check out one of the offwidths on the right side of the Great Depression up high, maybe on the side of the Wing buttress. He asked if it'd been done and I said I had no idea. This was before the Godars descended on Grey like it was the last rock on earth.  Anyhoo, I don't think he went back, and I definitely never heard about Dingus returning since he played up at Shuteye many years ago, climbing a route on Queens and N. Eagle Beak with the Spencer guide.

[NateD]

Dingus had talked to Mike Graber

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1871450&msg=1872182#msg1872182

Yes, I took note of that. Not really interested in contacting Beckey.

[susan]

It must have been what is now Gray Matters that twinkled in Brutus' eye, a cavernously wide climb that we only checked out the first time a couple months ago. That is Jeff's FA and a proud line. Jeff has established so many fine lines there. Highly recommend! But, yeah, gotta admit, there was a lot of quality untouched rock there our first visit.

It would be cool to hear any stories from Becky. We went to a slide show of his last year and might have asked. Next time.

[John]

Dingus did describe an FA to me he did in the Alcove Area. I thought he said it headed out the left side of the Alcove but I haven't followed up on it yet. He had a funny story about some suspicious wardens that had stopped them and some kid they were with jumped out from the back of their track and scared the bejeezus out of them.

Perhaps this would be a good reminder to follow up on that route.

[NateD]

. Not really interested in contacting Beckey.

'Lest I came across as really snooty, what I meant was I don't really feel inclined to harass Fred with questions about obscurities long ago that he may not remember. I am guilty of digging for specifics which, as John said, have often become just faded and fuzzy memories.

[daniel banquo merrick]

Clint and I saw Beckey not too long ago when he gave a slideshow at Stanford. It was cool to see a legendary American climber but it was hard to hear him and his slideshow hadn't been updated in about 30 years. I guess there were about 70 people there. I didn't try to talk to him although enough people did. He didn't seem chatty - perhaps because he didn't seem to hear very well.

If you want information from him, I would guess your best bet would be to contact one of the much younger people he climbs with or invite him on a climbing trip. He really likes pretty girls so send one to interview him and he might be more engaged.

His Balloon Dome report in the 1972 AAJ is a fun read. Perhaps you could find one of his partners Reed Cundiff and Bill Hacket. I bet there's a good story there if you can find them. They were associated with the Los Alamos Mountaineers in NM.