Recommended Routes

[NateD]

Cool pics Dan.
Demonstrating a knob pinch in the last one?
Or an imagined beer stein?

[susan]

Yes, very nice pictures, Dan! Great shot of you on your bio page too!

[mungy]

Did Dream Within a Dream on Sunday, first 2 pitches were really fun, the .10a pitch (2nd pitch) being very mossy, but doable. Someone needs to take a brush to it, and it will be quite good. Be careful of the first layback section of the crack, the arete is breaking off--be careful there.
If I knew what I know now, I would have rapped then, as the next 3 pitches were overgrown garbage (this is where the route joins the corner, a Royal Robbins route), probably would be good if there were heavily cleaned. A good alternative is:
climb a short third pitch to a ledge right above a short 5.7/8 squeeze chimney.  Here, a minor edge system runs right and joins up with Wanderlust (which some friends were on while we were climbing)--great moderate face climbing to the top.

[mungeclimber]

Mungy??

Why does that name sound so familiar? 

Cheers,

-Mungie, Munge E. Climber, Mungy on Mucci's phone and some address lists.

ps - nice on ya for Dream. Any pics?

[John]

It is too bad the Robbins route deteriorates after the first pitch despite being the most prominent line on Gray. The first is great. Not bad from there, but just OK.

The first pitch is awesome but ends at an ugly anchor made of bomber hexes which will eventually need to replaced since they are the corded type. You can get back to the P1 anchor of Dream Within A Dream from there or do the short second pitch to the anchor for DWAD.

Wanderlust is one of the best routes on Gray for sure.

[susan]

First pitch of DWD is very good. Second pitch does have way too much what I like to call big black potato chip lichen, which will probably clean up pretty quickly with more climbing. Totally agree that the upper pitches may not be worthwhile to many. I'm still glad to have done them ever and might climb them again sometime. Hadn't noticed anything about to break and am glad you mention it.

[jeff]

Cool, glad to hear DWD is getting some love. The lichen on the second pitch is a common complaint. If I ever do it again I will tick the holds I use then there is no lichen. Do Dirty Sanchez first and you wont notice it on DWD. Also The original route on the second pitch, much cleaner, went right after starting up the corner to some cracks with good pro. Heads back left (crux) on thin face to a small piece then more left to a bolt where the 2 variations meet. Not sure if the right variation has had a second but it's fun even if it's not the obvious line. I chose the right var on the fa due to the fact there was way more lichen on that pitch than there is now but more so due to a good size rock that looked like it would go if you breathed on it. I take no offence to peoples opinions on the cleanliness of the line but calling the upper pitches junk sounds harsh. The quality of the upper pitches does drop significantly though. And unless one is psyched on going to the top going down after the second might be the best bang for your buck but it is fairly quick and easy up the rest of the route. Plus with the name Mungy it should have been perfect. On the fa I did go right like you mentioned and found the older anchor then went back to the corner. Also glad to hear Wanderlust is getting love as well. Not to many folks have done the upper pitches. The first pitches on so many routes at Gray are so good it's often more attractive to go craging there.