Recommended Routes

[susan]

What sort of climbs would you like to see on the menu if you are looking for recommendations? Or which do you recommend?

For Gray Eagle I like so many especially first pitches it is kind of ridiculous. Please forgive if this sounds like spray at all. Favorites going from left to right on the main east face are:

• First pitch of Book of Spring Pages, just going to where the fixed gear is before heading to the rap anchor for Dream within a Dream. But at some point that fixed gear will need backing up. From there to the anchor for DWD, it's alright but the rock quality isn't so great. Not a straightforward TR.
• First pitch of Dream within a Dream is really sweet. 2nd p has some thick lichen but w/use will be much nicer.
• I love Wanderlust first pitch. It is excellent.
• Love When Dreams Come True P1. Best with long slings.
• I'm not saying I don't also love other climbs here, because I do, but I'm just naming ones that I would go to first if bringing someone new. Probably bc of familiaity, too.
• Gravy Train is excellent but I've not led it yet but love tr'ing P1.
• First two pitches of Gray Ham & Chickenheads are also great.
• Moving right, first pitch of Escher's Way, maybe 2nd if feeling strong. 3rd pitch is my favorite of Escher's even tho there's a fair bit of lichen in one spot and you really need long slings. Top of 3rd p has natural anchor. I love the whole route, too. Towards end of P4, much prefer heading left up the easy ramp a short way as opposed to the new guide suggestion not to go that direction. And on P5 prefer heading diagonally left where there's better knobs and pro.
• Also, I love Rainbow Connection's first pitch... but need to feel strong. There's currently a nut anchor w/sling that needs backing up atop p1. Not sure what we'll do w/that yet. Love the whole route though, too with p1, 3 and 4 the favorites.

Owl Wall: Friendly Skies is really fun. If you want a quick way to the Pink Balloon since you might want to carry some big gear for it, Tree of Least Resistance is good if a bit vegetated at times. I prefer the upper ledge start to Pink Balloon rather than the long way starting lower down on the right side.

I believe all of these went in ground up, as nearly all of the climbs on Gray, Red, Lower Electric, Owl and Minerva did and may have several places that are genuinely exposed and exciting and still feel like new routes. 

[DaveyTree]

Liking the list already. I like the bold with options. As the list grows it could turn into a compilation of must do routes from a lot of opinions. Thanks for the thread Susan. Now I will be up late comparing these to the guide.

[susan]

These are only my opinion... but where one thing is loved usually others will also. Yeah, it would be nice to see which of the many routes there will be most enjoyed.

[jeff]

It is hard to go wrong at Gray.  So many nice and long first pitches plus shade, good views and solitude.  For long routes,  Escher's Way is awesome and am looking forward to climbing The Rainbow Connection.  Was there the last 2 weekends and climbed the  first pitches to a bunch of routes there...Wing Feather, Dream w/in a Dream, Wanderlust, Titanic, When Dreams Come True, Delivering the Goods,  Gray Expectations,  Gravy Train also p2, Dickens Cider, Escher's Way, and love them all .  Also did both pitches of Sling em if You Got em.  My partner loved Sling em but did not lead it.  The first pitch is a bit heads up with a large questionable flake that you don't really want to pull on let alone put pro in.  The 2nd pitch is supper fun if you bring a gazillion slings and can stay on route.  I may add a bolt to keep folks on route although if you go to far right you will end up on Dances w/Bush any way. If you like wide than Cage Match and Gray Matters will give you something to wrestle with. My favorite pitch at Gray is Shades of Gray a well protected mixed route that keeps you on your toes. A 70m rope is nice to have for craging at Gray.

[mungeclimber]

Wing Feather has something to retreat from after the first pitch?

[sneville]

You can retreat from the first pitch with two ropes.  Pull your ropes from the left side.  There is also an anchor on the second pitch and you would need two ropes also but I don't think it is a straight line to the first anchor. 

[sneville]

Hey Jeff,
I would not be opposed to another bolt high on the first pitch of sling em.  It would be after that little hole where you put the tricam right?  I don't think it would be necessary for another bolt on the second pitch, I thought it was pretty obvious. 

Sean

[susan]

Jeff, Nice to hear you got out there. Only wish we hadn't missed you.

Also, so glad to hear you appreciate Escher's!

[jeff]

Ya, kinda lonely out there Sue.  Would be great to hook up with you guys.

Congrats Shawn,  I didn't want to go anyway.  I had a lot of important stuff to do so that's cool.  And I have noted no bolt on pitch 2.

[NateD]

I interpret this as a recommendation for Scepter - an old TR by our own Dan M. some of you may have read before:

http://www.oocities.org/danmerrick/queen/index.html

Anyone know if the anchor bolts have been replaced yet? Did you and Bob replace 'em Dan?

[DaveyTree]

Hadn't read that but loved it. So classic for those old climbs.

[daniel banquo merrick]

Scepter? I've heard of it. I don't know about the bolts. I do know somebody has been up the first pitches this year and I do know that they found two old bail anchors. Hex and cord perhaps a couple years old so perhaps that was the last time somebody tried it. Impression is that nobody has climbed the whole route in awhile.





I had more hair in those days.

[DaveyTree]

So basically they took a whipper on that cow bell to wedge it..........hands are sweating...

Nice pics!

[mungeclimber]

sweet!

[susan]

Thanks for posting the link - fully enjoyed the story and look forward to browsing the other links on the page later. I like the quote there: 

     "An adventure is interesting enough in retrospect, especially to the person that didn't have it; at the time it happens it usually
      constitutes an exceedingly disagreeable experience."  Vilhjalmur Stefansson

In many ways it seems generally that the second ascent of a climb may be the most hair-raising of all.