Author Topic: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments  (Read 37936 times)

John

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #135 on: November 02, 2015, 08:19:47 am »
Just finished a couple of routes this weekend:

On Owl Wall, left side:
California Cruiser-5.9 (thanks for the name suggestion, Jeff!)FA: John Godar, Susan Godar 11/2015 Pro: To 4”, double-length slings useful
P1-5.8-Climb first pitch of “The Brighter Side” to gain main ledge.-210’
P2-5.9-Start on left side of giant block at base of wall. Climb short crack and then trend left passing a bolt. The path heads left to a mantle then back right towards base of crack. Climb about half of the crack to a pod and belay on gear. 140’
P3-5.8-Climb rest of crack then up big knobs. Locate rap anchor for “TBS” on a block and belay there. 120’ Descent: One rap with 2-70m ropes back to main ledge.

and

On Gray Eagle, South Face:
Step Into The Light-5.9 Pro: To 2”, many nuts FA: John Godar, Susan Godar 10/2015
Starts below a small roof right of the arete of “Zeitgeist”. Trends right a bit then back left towards yellow corners. Belay below corners if climbing with a 60m rope. Climb a small pillar at the base of the right-most yellow corner to get onto the knobby face. Then follows the left edge of the knobby face to ledge above. 4 bolts. Rap “Control Your Pipe” with single 70m rope.-210’

John

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #136 on: November 18, 2015, 01:31:11 pm »
A couple of corrections, in regards to Shuteye Peak, the climb "Safari-5.9" is actually the Thomas Hartmann climb "June-5.9" but now with three more bolts than he originally used (originally had zero).

Also, his other climb, "Jingle Bells" is incorrectly listed as "June" and now has a new bolted anchor in it.

Dave

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #137 on: February 02, 2016, 03:01:20 pm »
Secret hand shake with you and Thomas to add said bolts?

John

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #138 on: February 03, 2016, 09:04:17 am »
Secret hand shake with you and Thomas to add said bolts?

Huh? Its not my route.

Dave

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #139 on: February 03, 2016, 11:21:52 am »
Maybe I misunderstood what was written. But bolts were added, right? If so, by Hartmann?

mungeclimber

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #140 on: February 03, 2016, 12:29:17 pm »
maybe he meant 'rebolted' anchor, aka the hardware is new, not the holes.

DaveyTree

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #141 on: August 30, 2016, 10:34:22 pm »
Climbed at Shangrila and High Eagle last Saturday with Paul. Great day and a little surprised to see about 6-7 different groups. All were cool. Saw Hans Flourine, cool guy. He said he was scouting for a film going to be used internally at his gym.

John

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #142 on: August 31, 2016, 07:02:18 am »
Hans manages our gym so I hope we get to see the final product somehow!

Are you surprised about 6-7 groups as in that seems like a lot or a little amount of people?

DaveyTree

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #143 on: August 31, 2016, 05:54:27 pm »
Seems like way more than I was expecting but haven't been the area in a while.

mike a

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #144 on: August 31, 2016, 07:02:46 pm »
Hi all, super cool to see Gerry,John, and sue and friends Sunday at lost eagle, thanks Gerry for showing my your Boulder problems super fun stuff, happy climbing Mike A. Ps with you guys would check out my new stuff on baby blues wall on high eagle lol 😊

susan

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Re: 2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments
« Reply #145 on: September 08, 2016, 03:29:21 pm »
One of these days would love to checkout that wall Mike!