2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments

[mungeclimber]

thx. looking forward to getting back out there.

[YETI]

Forgotten corners area, shuteye peak dome.

Turdlockenstan 5.10a R (or protectable with a medium beak)**** pro: doubles to 2", one 3" piece.

100 feet uphill of the bolted crack routes, reach a nice platform with a right trending flake / crack system and a thin seam heading straight up. Climb the flake to a nice stance and continue up the crack, past a small roof on its right, finishing on a low angle hand crack in a corner. Gear belay takes .5 to 3 inch. 180 ft. FA: GU-Mucci, Behrens, Jessrun, Lane

[jeff]

Lane??

[jeff]

Believing anything from Slater is an error.  Grahm gave him credit for 2 routes on the Runnel Vision wall, Runnel Lust/Cry me a River and Neptunes Net/The Way We Roll, because he had dated proof from a photo???  I guess that trumps the red tag at the top of one route I found after I did it ground up and the emails he sent me telling me I stolen his projects. It's kinda funny because the names I gave the routes turned around and slapped me in the face.  Why would anyone  put a red tag on top of a route, especially a 5.7 requiring no bolts? Tap tap I plan on doing this in the future.

Also on the Runnel Vision Wall The ratings differ from my opinion on Runnel Vision 10b and Struggle Within 11b but no big deal.


On Gray the biggest error I found with any of my routes is where When Dreams come True is drawn.  The route is shown going left after the roof but it goes right.  Don't Pinch Me I Am Dreaming is a var. of When Dreams Come True.  When Dreams Come True is 10c at most not d. When Dreams Come True Crosses Delivering the goods but never shares a belay with it. It may join Art of Life or the upper pitches of Gray Ham and Chicken heads may climb over it???

The first pitch of the Titanic is awesome and deserves more stars.  I should have placed a bolt with a red sling on top of it.  I am still pissed Josh and Kev stole that one.

Yes I know stars are subjective and many of you don't think they belong in the book but I like when guides have stars.  When I went to Tasmania the book they sold there had none and made it difficult to choose where to go and I felt I wasted valuable time that could have been spent climbing.

I would not give Heart of Gold more than 3 stars
Summer Siesta is a bit dirty around the crux but the rest is nice, 2 stars
Sling em if You Got em is great climbing but the first pitch has some sketchy rock on the first pitch but the second is so fun.
Dances with Bush I found hard to protect down low
Escher's way deserves more stars for sure.

[susan]

Believing anything from Slater is an error.  Grahm gave him credit for 2 routes on the Runnel Vision wall, Runnel Lust/Cry me a River and Neptunes Net/The Way We Roll, because he had dated proof from a photo???  I guess that trumps the red tag at the top of one route I found after I did it ground up and the emails he sent me telling me I stolen his projects.

What a bummer, Jeff. No matter their spin on things, facts are facts. Cry me a River and The Way We Roll are the climbs that went "up" first. This will get updated where it matters, and having to show why will probably serve to underscore your names for the routes.

I know stars are subjective and many of you don't think they belong in the book but I like when guides have stars.  When I went to Tasmania the book they sold there had none and made it difficult to choose where to go and I felt I wasted valuable time that could have been spent climbing.

Good point about the usefulness of stars. The small sample size is biased, though, at least it's a start. 

Escher's way deserves more stars for sure.

Thanks about that! I'd vote for 4 stars. This guide book's description for pitch 4 and 5 are misleading, though.

[John]

Jeff
I am not sure you even know about this but we did a quick route right next to the top down 5.7 in question on Runnel Vision Wall around that time and it actually made it in the guide. Mony knew we did it but you were off exploring. It was that day you first brought us up there.

The interesting thing is I never saw an anchor when we were up there and it is now officially marked as sharing the same anchor. The even funnier thing is, for some reason the photos from that day used to have the wrong year coming up on the time stamp when I view them on my work computer. Says how reliable time stamps are.

[mungeclimber]

Lane??

A buddy of ours. Mucci was using just last names since the internet is widely searchable. He shares your first name. I think it was his first visit to SE. He had an absolute blast. Now that he's getting married, he says  he will climb more with us. Which means we could probably get him to be a belay slave for first year before he wants to do his own drillin.

[jeff]

Thanks Munge,  I was wondering who and was thinking not Dave Lane.

I kinda remember John.  Who gave Grahm the info on your route?
I think I had already put the anchor above Cry me a River.  You guys climbed a bit right.  How did you get down, knobs?  Is the location of your route correct in Grahm's book?

[John]

Jeff
I told Grahm about it. This was back in the blissful pre-chipping era. Ironic how the famous chipping incident happened there at Runnel Vision since he and I were totally removed from you and Slaters headbutting and could sit back and watch the show.

You would love the topo of those routes I have that Slater gave to Grahm with the date in giant lettering, bigger than the route names even.

We belayed in knobs at the top then I lowered Sue to one of the much lower anchors and then I down climbed to her. We were right above where that anchor should have been. You can't see where we originally belayed in the overlay in the guide, it was higher up.

[mike a]

hi all, i hate to be a hater but, i am somewhat glad youall are zipping on slater :-), i think he got way too much air play about shuteye and if you were not a shuteye reg you would think slater was a big local at shuteye, and he was the man at shuteye, if you have noticed all the pix of him, he is either on a 5.7 or 5.8 climb, i mean do get me wrong a climb does not of to be a 5.12 to be an awesome climb, but if my pix were plastered all over the new book, i would want at least one pix of me on one of my projects wouldn't you???, lets face it, grahm totally sucked up to slater because if seem to me he did a bunch of work on the book for grahm, and it looks like slater did a ton of the pix for the book as well, and i saw the thing grahm said about who did the first  accent because slater had a dated pix on when it was put up, i think that was lam to put in the book, because by saying that he is just getting a dig at you guy's, well that's what it seems to me by writting that in his book, kind of kidz stuff if you ask me, grahm knew the book was going to piss people off, he even told me so, so i think it's b.s. to add fuel to the fire, i been hope the last couple years to run in to slater in person,  have a couple things say to him :-), happy climbing mike a.

[susan]

Hey Mike. Thanks for your candor. I don't think it's about "hating" on anyone so much as needing to address differences when paths cross and there's conflict, or when trying to distinguish fact from fiction, misinterpretation, misrepresentation.  I was just looking back at the ST soyo thread around September of 2010 to see what if anything could be gleaned about Tom and Jeff's disagreement over those two 5.7s at Runnel Vision. Aside from noticing that Tom did admit, "guilty," as in  the 5.7 "project" Jeff had just free climbed was still a project after the FA date that got recorded for this guide, I wondered why more wasn't stated about it there. More than that, though, I was struck by how many different groups of us seemed to be happily interacting with each other around that time. It sure seemed as John just put it, 'the blissful' days.

[NateD]

mike - other than waiting to run into him, if you don't have it, Slater's email is readily available. Might be a bit more civil to correspond with him directly than talking about him publicly. Besides, we are all guilty of a healthy dose of enthusiasm at times, eh? 

Seems fair enough to discuss our opinions about routes here, and I welcome any bashing of my 5.7s and 5.8s.

Sue, I gather much wasn't discussed publicly on ST about the territory of Runnel Vision because Jeff and Tom were corresponding directly, as it should be. And the true blissful pre-chipping era was years before the one to which John refers. In other words, there were 2 separate chipping eras that caused some murmerings in peaceful SoYo.

[susan]

I gather much wasn't discussed publicly on ST about the territory of Runnel Vision because Jeff and Tom were corresponding directly, as it should be.

Doesn't sound as if the private discussion went so well. Jeff is right to speak up about it. Mike makes a good point too about the dig in the guidebook about it.

If you click the link below and scroll to the posts at the bottom of the page to see the time stamps on their interaction, it would appear to indicate the climb was still marked a project (i.e., not yet free climbed by Slater) after already having been free climbed by Jeff, which is all after the date reported in the guide. 
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=779298&tn=1240

Not hating on anyone at all. Just feeling this and many other situations need to be dealt with more fairly.

[NateD]

Doesn't sound as if the private discussion went so well. Jeff is right to speak up about it...

Not hating on anyone at all. Just feeling this and many other situations need to be dealt with more fairly.

Indeed, at least they tried at first. Agreed you're not hating. Just remembering Jerry's comment from awhile back:
 "Mostly SoYo is still a community where people still respect each other even if they don't necessarily agree with tactics. May it stay that way for a long, long time!!"

I always like open respectful discussions about style, ethics, history, and the bumps along the way - but just hope it doesn't devolve into personal attacks, as seems to happen so much on ST and beyond.
Peace. 

[susan]

I hear you Nate and agree. It isn't a question of style here but a question of openness and honesty. If Jeff should get the ffa of a couple of 5.7s, so be it. On the one hand, perhaps he doesn't want to fight for it, on the other, it is a matter of principle. We give the benefit of the doubt, but there is too much stacking up and you know it.