2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments

[DaveyTree]

I never really thought about this subject until I climbed with Doe and belayed him up a 1-pitch FA. He asked how to spell my name for the FA. My response was I didn't do anything but belay. Doe said he wouldn't of climbed it without a belay. I thought back to my FAs and found I always listed the belayer on a one pitch as the second name. If it was a multi then I would list anyone who took part in the climbing or belaying to push the climb higher, I guess. I haven't run into this yet. I don't think I would list someone who was watching, just me.... and I don't think I would want to be listed if I didn't take part.

I guess I have always thought of it as this; if I try a no-bolt trad climb and can't make the top and have to rap off and later someone else pushes it to the top, they deserve the credit and not me. Now if there are bolts placed by the first attempt I guess that would complicate the decision because their efforts assisted the top out. I don't know what the right thing to do would be. Not sure but I just love to climb in the end.

Now, if I go to Shuteye and want to climb a sick line and can't decide from the guide book......What would you recommend?

(Slyly back on track)

[John]

Now, if I go to Shuteye and want to climb a sick line and can't decide from the guide book......What would you recommend?

(Slyly back on track)

Thank you for that.

What do you prefer? Kind of a mood thing, right?

[NateD]

Start a thread and ask people what they think.

Relevant old discussion here, with a variety of opinions:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1313778/First-Ascents

John, it seems to me you've been pretty flexible in this regard - honoring whatever is reported.

[John]

Funny, because Dave has a comment on that very thread that he should re-read. Third page, he is "Mooch". EDIT: Fourth page.

I actually will list whoever is reported. There are lots of criteria folks use and I have little interest in sorting the details out and besides, it's their climb and they can list it and name it any way they feel credit is due. However, I have witnessed a situation that the second name on an FA OK'd the retrobolting of a route without the approval of the first name, AKA the leader. That is like Robin loaning out the Batmobile.

[YETI]

FA credit goes like this.

If you climbed the route, on it's first ascent, you are included on the FA and should have your name listed.

If you lead the CRUX pitch your name comes first, then the belayer, then the 3rd, 4th etc....

Pretty standard. 

Now, if you belay from the deck, and don't climb the route during it's FA, you are not included on the FA.

Same with big climbs, many help out, but you have to be present on the send.

[DaveyTree]

Makes perfect sense to me

[John]

I got credit for a climb at the Pinnacles where all I did was drink beer with the guys at the base and dodge the moss and choss raining off of it. Naturally, I didn't expect any credit but as the story goes, they apparently gave me credit mostly to shame me. Lets say the route has some major "quality issues" and not too many climbers would admit having climbed it. Totally cracks me up.

[mungeclimber]

There are others we are adding u to. 

[mungeclimber]

Percussive Hyperbole 5.5/6 *** pro to 2.5" This is the one Josh and I did on that slab left of that huge dike Slater did. It finishes on the arete with the golden frenulations. Josh had been bugging me for a name. 3 pitches.


Here are a couple pics of part of it...


The top out...


of the last pitch...

[John]

We have photos of you guys on a thread somewhere in here, maybe the Shuteye Pics thread. I will add them if I get a chance.

Could you add a date, name order, brief description?

[mungeclimber]

We have photos of you guys on a thread somewhere in here, maybe the Shuteye Pics thread. I will add them if I get a chance.

Could you add a date, name order, brief description?

FRA date = 5.18.2013, GU
Name order = Josh let me have, what I think is, the crux pitch. So I think it would be me, then Josh. Josh speak up if you think otherwise.

Description = Approach by walking up and left up the gully that forms the left margin of the base of the slab. At a low angle crack and black streak, head more or less straight up for ~2 pitches (maybe 1 big pitch if you simul), aiming for the upper cap-formation that has numerous plates. Sparse gear can be found in and around these lower pitches. At the big ledge at the base of the upper formation, make a belay. The last pitch begins at a crack near the right arête. This upper pitch is easily protectable using slings, nuts and cams. The last 20-25' are pure fun, like many ShutEye patinae'd routes.

[John]

Thanks for the details, and I like the photos .

[John]

There is a TR in the guide at Voodoo called "Bad Mojo-11d" that appears to be at least partially a line I led a few years ago. I did the thin crack, crossed to the first roof also (same crux), but instead of heading immediately left, went up one more roof and continued up and left on fun climbing including a short OW. The ridge has enough eyesore convenience chain anchors so we belayed in "All Along the Watchtower" and then continued over to the "Amber" anchor. I called it Juju and rated it 10d.

[Dave]

Thanks Josh....that's my understanding too. Hello?....I climbed that route with you and Sue as a party of three. I didn't just sit there and then expect FA credits. Also, I could care less if my name is put on the FA credits. Its your standard John. I look at it as a much more intimate thing rather than the 'Slater FA Standard': anything in view should have my name posted in neon. Keep it the way you want....I just know I contributed to a fun climb involving all three of us.

[DaveyTree]

Munge, that first pic of the upper reminds me of cornrows. Nice pics.