2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments

[DaveyTree]

Thought I was going to here an epic. It was a pleasure regardless.

I believe my favorite climb, with my limited experience there, would hve to be Gray Ham and Chicken Heads. Awesome climb. Don't remember if we did the entire thing tho.ugh
There is another one in that area that was really cool as well. It was just left on Gray somewhere.

[mike a]

morning all, amy and i when to hidden eagle dome last sat, it was a little tuffer to find then i thought it would be, got on aqua groovy and it was a real good route, i think the start moves to the second bolt was the crux, we did burning desire as well, it was a fun route as well, and like aqua groovy, the start moves was the crux, if you have not been to hidden eagle, you should go check it out, sat morning when amy and i got to chilkoot, there were at least 15 car or so plus a camper, it was the most cars i have ever seen at chilkoot, and the first thing amy and i thought was, "that dam book" , but it was not climbers, it was a wedding, and the wedding had a big party at the parking and bathroom area off beasore road, most people i have ever seen there, going back to chilkoot next weekend, to check out some other stuff there, happy climbing mike a.

[mike a]

hi all, i think hole in the wall at half day dome should of got more starts for sure, super fun route, amy and i have done that climb a ton of times, we really like it, i thought it was a grahm route and the first time amy and i climb it a few years ago the bolt that is at the start that is smashed down, we thought grahm needed to go back to bolting camp and pull that baby out, it's funny because the whole time is was not grahm, any way to date so far 1/2 day dome, and magic wall has some of the most fun routes in the chilkoot area, thanks j.a. for all your hard work on putting up routes in the area, cheers mike a.

[John]

I do have a climb to highly recommend on the Melting Wall at Lost Eagle which is Wing Man-10d. It starts out as a steep hand crack (gotta love those when you can find em) and quickly leads into knobs with bomber gear placements. A really great line that I am glad to have finally done. Nice job on that one, Jer!

[DaveyTree]

Stop the sexy talk John....!!! I am trying to work here.

Thanks for the beta. I will have to try it the next time I am there. Sounds like the type I would like.

[Dave]

'Zeitgriest'....a little FA credit, since there was a third wheel there pitching for a 5.9 rating.

[John]

Would that be a "consulting" credit?

[Dave]

Forget I mentioned it since your memory is limited.

[John]

I don't understand, Dave.

[Dave]

John - did you forget that I climbed it with you and Sue that day as a party of 3? Or does the third person not get FA credit? If not, this brings up a whole new discussion...

Hey DaveyTree and gang.....that was Carlos (last name eludes me but Roger knew him). Yes, slipped on top of T-House (1995-ish) and slid/skid/scrapped half way down Tollhouse. I think he sold his gear the very next week.

Tiki -  you forgot to mention 'Keys To The Highway' (5.9, 4 pitches), Exile Dome; positioned on the far right side. Starts on a rock pedestal and climbs a finger crack (5.9) to a sloping ledge, sling big knobs for anchor (150'). Second pitch takes on the big plates and chicken heads. Goes almost straight up from the belay (climber is out of view) and reaches a natural belay (funky sideways flake)...takes RP's to #6 (160'). Third goes right and up a slabby section that passed a small dike (5.. Continue up and left to right facing corner crack and climb to a small ledge, natural gear (130'). Last pitch is short....take on the right sloping shoulder of the summit and exit on a few knobs through a slot. Belay on the summit....body belay behind one of the boulders. Descend via the brushy gully right of the summit (good luck!).

[John]

Quote:
Forget I mentioned it since your memory is limited.

Dave, I have only recorded the leaders and at a minimum, the belayers for FA credit of all of our routes. I see that you wish to be on the FA for being present, is that correct? Should I make a singular exception despite my limited memory?

It is a one pitch climb that was onsighted, so three names is unnecessary and the insult doesn't help your cause.

[Dave]

 You think I was insulting you? I'll have to now watch what I say around you then.  Since when was there a standard about all parties involved ON THE CLIMB not get FA credit, single pitch or multi-day. Best check the many FAist that came long before you. Guess that's your way of thinking. Different strokes for different folks....

[John]

There were something like 10 or more people who were involved with climbing the Nose and only three get credit. Is 1958 enough before me?

[Dave]

Then I guess your FA info for LE and other formations will be completely wrong for your guidebook then. So much for getting history right....because you're right.

[John]

Start a thread and ask people what they think.