2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments

[John]

Specifically, this is for updates to the 2013 Shuteye Ridge guidebook by Grahm Doe.

Now that some guides are actually out there in peoples hands, I assume some of you may have updates, additions or comments or would like to publicly report new routes.

I will start a list of areas in this post like I did for the rebolting threads and log your new routes, corrections and comments under the proper category. I will add categories as necessary.

I do collect information on routes and areas that are not to be shared on the internet but may be of interest to folks inquiring about less-traveled crags. I would love to hear of any information that may fall into this category, off of this site, at john@southernyosemiteclimbing.com


Chilkoot Lake Area

Secret Wall

Possibly new: The short corner (with a roof off the deck), just left of Secret Crack 5.9 at Secret Wall, Chilkoot Lake area. 5.8ish with a stem start, 5.10 jamming the crack out the roof. Gear to 4". Nate Durrant/Roger Hayashi 7/12/13


Lost Eagle Area

Swimming Hole Wall

Dog on a Log-5.9 Unnoted credit; FA: Arend Jessurun on TR.

Melting Wall

Unnamed Route-5.7 Free solo, John Godar 7/2013; Streak on the slab between Tales From The Wadi and Funnel Runnel.

Unnamed Route-5.7 John Godar, Sean Neville 7/2013; Water streak about 8' right of "Mommas Little Fledgeling". Belay at crack. No anchor, so walk off is necessary.

Navel Eagle-5.7 John Greer, Justin Brown 9/2013; Between "Mommas...." and "Tales...". Three bolts up to shared anchor with Tales From the Wadi.

Exile

Keys To The Highway-5.9 Jerry Jessurun, Dave Daly 9/2011 - 4 pitches On the far right side. Starts on a rock pedestal and climbs a finger crack (5.9) to a sloping ledge, sling big knobs for anchor (150'). Second pitch takes on the big plates and chicken heads. Goes almost straight up from the belay (climber is out of view) and reaches a natural belay (funky sideways flake)...takes RP's to #6 (160'). Third goes right and up a slabby section that passed a small dike (5.. Continue up and left to right facing corner crack and climb to a small ledge, natural gear (130'). Last pitch is short....take on the right sloping shoulder of the summit and exit on a few knobs through a slot. Belay on the summit....body belay behind one of the boulders. Descend via the brushy gully right of the summit (good luck!).

Red Eagle

Breast Feather Left - 10b -FFA of P2-8/2011 John and Susan Godar. It is shown as 10dA0 and not freeclimbed in the guide.


Gray Eagle

South Face

Zeitgeist-5.9/10a PG/R?- FA: John and Sue Godar 6/2012 Pro: To 2", many nuts, no bolts used- Starts in cracks on the outer right side of a large chimney, slightly uphill from Control your pipe. Climb cracks to reach exposed face climbing that generally heads towards the left side of a black streak. Exit face via short right-facing crack leading to easy chimney. One 70m makes it to summit and if using a 60m you would need to belay somewhere around the corner cracks. Descent: Scramble down and right and rap Control Your Pipe with one rope.

Step Into The Light-5.9- FA: John and Sue Godar 10/2015 Pro: To 2", many nuts, 4 bolts- Starts below a small roof right of the arete of “Zeitgeist”. Trends right a bit then back left towards yellow corners. Belay below corners if climbing with a 60m rope. Climb a small pillar at the base of the right-most yellow corner to get onto the knobby face. Then follows the left edge of the knobby face to ledge above. Rap “Control Your Pipe” with single rope.-210’

East Face

Gravy Train- Rating change. Listed as 11b but is more likely to settle closer to 11c or d.

Gray Ham and Chicken Heads First ascent credit error. John and Sue Godar had nothing to do with the creation of this climb, nor wish to be credited. Only belayed on the redpoint.

'Shut up, I'm sketchin' 5.8 2 pitches- Gear: doubles to 3" with one 4" piece, Mucci/Neville. See details below. I will add them here later.


Owl Wall
California Cruiser-5.9Pro to 4"/ FA: John and Susan Godar 11/2015-Climb first pitch of Brighter Side to gain main ledge. Starts at left side of giant block at base of wall. Head up crack then past bolt, trending left. At mantle, start heading back right towards base of main crack. Belay halfway up crack in pod. Continue up crack then out onto knobby face to next ledge. Rap Brighter Side with two 70m ropes in two raps back to creek.

Shuteye Peak

Percussive Hyperbole 5.5/6 *** pro to 2.5" FA: Rob Behrens, Josh Mucci 5/18/2013. Far left and upper slab. It finishes on the arete with the golden frenulations. 3 pitches.
Description = Approach by walking up and left up the gully that forms the left margin of the base of the slab. At a low angle crack and black streak, head more or less straight up for ~2 pitches (maybe 1 big pitch if you simul), aiming for the upper cap-formation that has numerous plates. Sparse gear can be found in and around these lower pitches. At the big ledge at the base of the upper formation, make a belay. The last pitch begins at a crack near the right aręte. This upper pitch is easily protectable using slings, nuts and cams. The last 20-25' are pure fun, like many ShutEye patinae'd routes.

Forgotten Corners

Turdlockenstan 5.10a R (or protectable with a medium beak)**** FA: Mucci, Behrens, Jessrun, Lane Pro: doubles to 2", one 3" piece. 100 feet uphill of the bolted crack routes, reach a nice platform with a right trending flake / crack system and a thin seam heading straight up. Climb the flake to a nice stance and continue up the crack, past a small roof on its right, finishing on a low angle hand crack in a corner. Gear belay takes .5 to 3 inch. 180 ft. GU

Voodoo Dome

Juju-10c/d FA: John Godar, Susan Godar 11-2011 Pro: Thin to 3”
P1. 10c/d - Climb a right-facing flake split by a roof. Follow thin flake then through face moves passing a piton to gain a higher crack. Climb over the lower, right end of the crack to gain a higher crack. Continue up and left to a short off-width then to knobs. Belay in the prominent corner in flakes and knobs.
P2. Continue up corner to summit or locate rap anchor across the face up and to the right for “Amber”.

Funnel - 5.8 FA: John Godar, Susan Godar 11/2011 Pro: To 2”
P1. 5.8 - Scramble through bushes to reach small roof with runnel above. Protect roof move with a piece with long sling at a block up and right. Climb runnel to knob band, then up ramp. Belay on ledge. Traverse to left to reach anchor for “Amber” and rap with two ropes or walk off to the right. ~125’

Pork Over Tehran 5.6 ****FA: Mucci/Clance '11? Pro: .5 to 4" Start 30 feet right of 'Funnel' in a large recess/gully system.  Begin at a big separated flake to a horizontal crack, move up over load stones in the chimney reaching a good stance where a black water streak comes straight down.  Climb the obvious crack/flake to the right (5.6) to the summit shoulder.  Gear Belay takes up to 2"  Walk off to the right. GU

Big Sleep

Rainbows and Butterflies - 5.7R/X FA: Susan and John Godar 10/2011, pro to 2". Between Drench Warfare and Afternoon Nap following a dark streak for most of the route up to the headwall. Six pitches, no bolts, one anchor on top of P2.

Chiquito Dome

Three Knobs-5.6-FA: Mark Fletcher, Steve Leahy, Stacie Smith 4/2015 Pro: Draws only/Three pitches. Rap with two ropes or walk off to left.

[NateD]

While Grahm is certainly also requesting updates, etc., it is my understanding that there is currently no vehicle for making these public. So this thread could be a valuable resource.

Here's one:
Possibly new: The short corner (with a roof off the deck), just left of Secret Crack 5.9 at Secret Wall, Chilkoot Lake area. 5.8ish with a stem start, 5.10 jamming the crack out the roof. Gear to 4". Nate Durrant/Roger Hayashi 7/12/13

NOTE: Kinley Adams and others before him climbed in this region since the early 90s. The arete at the Magic Wall, among others, were TR'd then. Some climbers were rumored to have lead the arete on gear. Kinley installed the anchor bolts atop the arete. He may have also lead the "classic" 5.9 crack at Quarter Day Dome, but again, wouldn't necessarily profess to be the first. Details forthcoming, I hope. Thus it is hard to claim with certainty any trad FAs on these smaller crags. All fun climbing, nonetheless.

EDIT: Quarter Day dome, not Half Day dome for the crack climb Kinley may have done.

[John]

This climb would be totally unsafe to climb without a name.

[Gerard(Jerry)Jessurun]

Swimming Hole Wall. Dog on a Log. FA: Arend Jessurun on TR. Before Jerry Anderson and Family installed the bolts.
AJ and Shane named it cause our Dalmation was on the log as AJ was shoeing up. I got second or third ascent cause the Ex climbed it too.....cannot remember the order. I believe it was earlier that year or perhaps done the season before?

[NateD]

Many TRs (or former TRs) not credited in the guide.

[jeff]

On Gray Eagle,  Gravy Train is 11b in the guide but I think 11c or even d.  You can do the first pitch short to the Titanic anchor but it is better going long about 130' or so to a higher anchor.  The 2nd pitch is shorter but awesome. I think you can rap from the top of the second pitch with one 60 to Gray Expectations then to the ground.  A 70 works for sure.  I haven't had a chance to finish the route yet but m shooting for a top out.  Anyone interested and have Sun and Mons off???

[John]

I would vote for c or d on Gravy Train too, that crux tricky. 11b is kinda sandbaggy but 5.9 is the perfect fits-all rating if you ask me....which no one did. Looking forward to trying the rest.

[John]

Jeff
What are you currently rating the second pitch?

[YETI]

Grey Eagle-

Just right of Art of life, a obvious yellow ramp trends up and right toward the corner of 'physics of Death'. After 165+ feet, a large step-over loose flakes deposits you on a large detached block, 20 feet below the 2nd belay (2bolts) of Physics of death.

70M rope mandatory if linking pitches, a 60 will not reach the bolts if you protect the route normally.

If pitching it out, stop at the second large ledge approx. 110' from the start.

'Shut up, I'm sketchin' 5.8, 2 pitches- Gear: doubles to 3" with one 4" piece, Mucci/Neville.


Almost forgot about this gem.


edit: right of Art of Life.

[jeff]

John,  10cish.



Hey Mucci man!   Don't you think FU Neville would be more accurate?

Miss you bro

[YETI]

AKA FU Neville!

WHoop! Long time Bro, same here.

[John]

AKA FU Neville!

I believe I have heard that name somewhere before

[mike a]

morning all, yesterday i blow off work did a day trip to shuteye, after being  shut down on trying to get to slaters, dreaming in color, best moderate route on the best cliffs at shuteye, i finally found the so called worm hole to get to the base of it, it's a good route cool holds, but no way in my mind is it the best moderate route, and the book gives it 4 stars,mmmm i still think the best moderate routes in the area is on hawk dome at fresno dome, and on all 3 articles he put out on it back in 2011, i thought it was going to be a mega classic, but i should of known better after amy and i climbed afternoon nap, and they were going to remane the tower r.e.m. not hawk tower, goodnees!!! :-),hate to beat on the dead horse buttttt...., any way even with the new guide book it is still going to be tuff to find it for newbe's, and while i am on the new guide book, a couple things i think would be helpful if they would of put what the bolt and hanger means, and show the bolts on the pix topo, and show where the crux is, like in other guide books, but all and all real great job on the book, but still think it will not bring a ton of climbers out to the shuteye area, happy climbing mike a.

[John]

I have to agree with you Mike, the starred climbs in the guide are pretty darned shamelessly biased towards the same handful of names and a particular style of climb. It is really disappointing to see that. It says there is only one flavor at Shuteye.

[John]

On Gray Eagle, on the wall called the "Citadel" AKA the Yellow Wall, there is a climb marked "project-Grahm Doe". That line was climbed on all gear so please don't rap bolt it, as is clearly planned with the stashed static line in the cave above it and the anchor on top. All of the lines on that wall have been done on gear.