2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments

[mike a]

yes the new book has some bad beta, looking at some old topos i made back in the day on queens throne, the first pitch of whiplash. i have 7 bolts to the anchors, new book says 4, and on coronet, i have 5 bolts to the anchors, and my topo shows a set of anchors that the new does not even show, the new book says 1 bolt and gear on the first pitch, but with that said, i am sure grahm has never climbed any of the routes on the throne, it's not the kind of climbing he likes, so i am sure all the info he got for queens throne is second hand info, i met up with grahm last friday in oakhurst at the south gate brew pub to have a coulpe beers and talk about shuteye,climbing, the new book, and he said he really wants feed back on the book, no matter good or bad, so i think if youall feel like there is alot of mis info in the new book, don't hold back, give it to him with both barrels, i did lol :-), happy climbing mike a.

[daniel banquo merrick]

Is Scepter the 5.8?

Scepter has always been 5.6 and is in the new book. I'd call it old school 5.6.

[mike a]

hi all, the photo bucket is having issues, or maybe i am having issues, so i could not post the topo i have of coronet on queens throne, so i posted it on my fb, i have done this route a few times, so i remember it well, and the new book it a bit different then what my topo shows, just thought i share that with youall, i will try and post those topos tomorrow on my pc on the fresno dome pix here, happy climbing mike a.

[John]

Mike-Some of us are not on FB (probably just me) so I hope you give Photobucket another try and can post the topos. I can help you if you need technical help, just PM or email me.

Also for Mike:

he said he really wants feed back on the book, no matter good or bad, so i think if youall feel like there is alot of mis info in the new book, don't hold back, give it to him with both barrels, i did lol :-), happy climbing mike a.

I am curious why he wants feedback, since it doesn't do any good now. Ink is permanent.

[mike a]

morning, that topo to Coronet is on photo bucket now, check it out if you like, cheers arechiga.

[DaveyTree]

Feed back for the next addition I assume. There are a ton of new routes going up still.

[jeff]

Davey Tree don't you think that somebody that is putting up new routes out there knows new routes are being put up???  And a ton is an exaggeration.

[John]

Thanks for putting up your Coronet topo, Mike. It looks like you may be confusing the P1 of Coronet with the unreported line that Slater and Matt S. claimed as their own that starts along the blunt arete. Coronet starts at a left-leaning arch/flake more to the right of the arete.

Did you traverse right, under the roof at around 200-250' to reach the right-facing corner? That would be a combination of the unreported line and the upper portion of Coronet. The original Robbins topo has no bolts besides anchors until P5.

[mike a]

morning, no i not confusing about the other lines that are there now, because the times i did the route, it was the only line there, and yes the second pitch i went right of the roof, and the first time i climbed it the only topo i had was the old spencer book, like i said, the new book does not show the 5 bolts on the first pitch or maybe i am missing something?, and on whiplash it does not have the right  number of bolts on the pitch as well, the old topo to that is on the old rock and ice acticle i posted here a couple months ago, it's no real biggy to me, just thought i share that with youall, they bashed my book all to h#$$, so i think i should get a couple bashes back :-), i feel they showed no respect by not mensioning my book in there acticles in the past couple years about shuteye and they made it sound like slater's door stop was the latest and greatest book out for shuteye at the time :-(, the weather is going to be amazing this weekend, i will be up there! so i will talk less and climb more, :-) cheers arechiga.

[John]

Mike-
This is the original Robbins topo for his three recorded routes on Queens Throne. Maybe you have seen it? The B's on the topo are for bolts, some are for the single-bolt anchors.

Log in required to view.:

[mike a]

morning, cool old topo, no have not seen this, thanks for sharing, it looks pretty much as mine, but with out the bolts on the first pitch, i guess some one back in the day added them after spencer's book came out, cheers arechiga.

[DaveyTree]

Thanks for the topo Mike. Very cool.

Jeff, I guess 'a ton' is a bit of a stretch. I just figured Graham would want to correct any errors and by the time he decided to do another addition there would be plenty not in the current guide.

Better to give the correct info rather than someone other than the FA party give it and it ends up being wrong.

[jeff]

Yes,  I agree.

Keep up the SOYO psych.

[susan]

Obviously there is a lot of water under this bridge I am not aware of and don't really care to. As an outsider in whatever it is, I have nothing bad to say about the book. It directs me to where all the climbs are...  I am France in this war...............hahaha

This thread is for anyone who wants to set the record straight and provide feedback for climbers to refer to as needed for corrected info which could prove important.

There is for sure some frustration expressed in it, but please consider how you might feel if you knew that the correct info was at hand to relay but wasn't, not just in a few instances but in many. Expressions of disbelief and upset are understandable. Besides, as Mike A. relayed from a conversation with Grahm, it was expected.

 
 

[DaveyTree]

Susan, I am all up for getting it right and posting any corrections that need to be made. It just seems obvious by some of the writings that there is some personal relationship drama which took place that I am not aware of, and don't really care to, since it doesn't matter to me.

I just like the climbing but agree that this is a propper place to vent those corrections and frustrations.