2013 Shuteye Ridge Guidebook - Additions, Corrections and Comments

[sneville]

Jeff,
We need to name the 10a climb on the right side of red that we did together (FU Neville???).  It is in the guide but just has your name on the FA.  Are you trying to steal all the credit?  We probably should add a bolt off of the first belay yes?  Its been too long we need to get out there.  I heard you are burning a lot of gas lately. 

Also Redlin'en seems to be in there too with a 5.9 rating and no name.  I would say 10b would would fair. Me, victor and brandon on the FA. 

John I talked to you before about this but I have a project on red that goes straight up from the old guys route.  It starts with a wide left facing crack.  I plan on pushing it through the roof this year and finishing. 

Sean

[John]

Note about Sleepy Hollow on Owl Wall. Sue should be the first name listed on the FA for that route since she crushed it.

Sean
I have your route listed in my "notes". The one with a bolt at your high point, right? Just below the roof? Get er dun. 

[NateD]

The incidents of chipping and the resulting discussions and agreements among locals are an important and relevant part of the recent history and ethics of route development on the ridge. And although it is certainly no mystery to most activists, this was supposed to be covered in the guide, and is unfortunately not included.

Not trying to beat a dead horse here, but it was discussed with Grahm and Tom.

[mike a]

good evening all, ok according to the new book, the best 5.10b is Aqua Groovy, 5,10b, i have never been so amy and i are going to check it out, in the gorge, thats owens, i am always in search of the best 5.9, and no it's not, Heart Of The Sun, that's not even close!!!!, i don't care what marty lewis has to say, it's not the best 9 in the gorge lol:-), so lets see if this is a shuteye mega a classic, see youall at the secret spot, happy climbing mike a.

[John]

Breast Feather Left on Red Eagle was freed by myself with Sue on 8/2011 at 10b. It is shown as 10dA0 in the guide and somehow gets one star. I have my own opinion about the number of stars for that one but I will let the climb speak for itself. It is not our route by the way, it is a Jack Delk route so we are not biased.

Also on Red Eagle, Orange Slice is way better than Thank Knob star-wise but it is clear that you need to climb with Grahm to get stars.

Why does Wither have three? That is one of the worst routes on Minerva and I have climbed almost every one. In fact, the stars for the entire guide are so messed up I can't believe it. There are even two routes on Gray from only last year with four stars done by guess who....that's right. That would be an instant classic? Wow.

EDIT: Wither is not "bad", but it is just one of many routes with high number of stars that make me question the entire system.

Nate
I would also like to hear why the chipping fiascoes were not part of the history in the guide.

[mike a]

hi all, some one tex me today and said they did aqua groovy this week, and they were let down :-(, with all those star, they were thinking that it had to be a shuteye mega classic, i hope it's going to not be a let down for me, i think the star rating is some what byast, i will found out, happy climbing mike a.

[NateD]

That's the problem with stars - they mess with your expectations. Even photos can deceive. Just ignore 'em and go out and climb what looks interesting to you. There are a lot of quality climbs at HE, in my biased opinion. (Aren't all opinions biased?  )

Stars aside, I for one like Aqua Groovy, as it's unique. If you are looking for a sustained route at the grade however, this isn't it.

[John]

I appreciate stars in guides when I go on a trip to check out an area for the first time so you don't waste precious vacation time on disappointing climbs, but a simple "recommended routes" list works about as well.

I also appreciate a hand drawn topo on the back of an envelope even more. You kinda know you're going to epic but your day will almost always be memorable too.

[DaveyTree]

Hard to judge a book by it's stars. I for one love climbs with a variety of climbing. I have limited time in Shuteye but like how the book is set up. I have always viewed stars and to an extent rating as opinions. I figure if a 10a for some might be a .8-.10c for others depending on their strengths. Stars are even more for what a person might like.

I have run into climbs in every book which I thought were way off. Big stars I thought were crap and no stars I thought were classics. I must like a different kind of climb than the author I figure. Then I just keep climbing.

Hard not to keep looking through the guide. Great rock porn and so many areas I have yet to go to.

Soo many climbs.....not enough time!!!!

[mike a]

morning climbers, yes the star thing in a guide book, is more or less to me a popuarlity contest, like in the gorge book," i love picking on marty ":-), but on his star rating, all his routes are gorge classic, or at least 3 stars, i think that goes with grahmy's shuteye book as well, but i am still going to see whats up with the routes that get the higher star rating, and go down his list on the routes that i have not been on yet, just so i can play arm chair climber on the internet and bag on his book let most did on my books when put them out lol :-), see how i am lol, happy climbing mike a. ps thanks for your input nate and john.

[Jerry]

Baggin' on "Aqua Groovy"? Actually thats fine because we all have different tastes in routes and one persons 4 star route is another persons POS route. We just like to climb what looks good and view the stars as more of an indication than an absolute.

BTW Mike, don't go expecting a 10b route. We rated the very bottom moves 10a and the "10b traverse" 5.9 and we are more known for soft ratings than sandbagging. The dome is to featured to have continuous difficulty, probably "After the Fire" has the most hard moves of any of the routes. Hidden is just a fun place to go cruise and enjoy the view.

[DaveyTree]

Jerry! Same Jerry I just met at MM? If so...glad to finally meet you. Your name.pops up in many circles. Including a story about a slide down part of Tollhouse saved by the chains.

Let hear the tale!

[Jerry]

Maybe Gerry Jessrun? Not me on a slide at Tollhouse!

[DaveyTree]

It was Jessrun. Maybe he will see this. And hope to meet you Jerry at some point along with everyone else on here.

Since we are talking about the guide book, I would also like to know all your favorite route/s that is/are listed in the guide. This way I can sum all of your stars with the ones in the book and head there first. More input the better.

[Gerard(Jerry)Jessurun]

Daveytree! I do know Jerry Anderson and have climbed with him a number of times!! It was me you met, Yup!

Sorry for the confusion. I never did like the letter 'G' in cursive so I started to spell with a 'J' long ago, however on the forums I have gone back to'G', although on Supertopo I am Tiki-Jer.

But I have never taken a ride/slide out at Tollhouse. I had heard the story before however, I cannot recall the guys name. I did hear he was back at it after being away from climbing.