The approach took us about an hour, going slow. The start was easy to find. Going up the second pitch, I exited the dihedral about 2/3rds up, unsure of the pro for the 5.8 crux, which I couldn't identify. Besides, I was tempted by an anchor off to the right on the slab, which turned out to be a Sons of Thunder anchor. The bouldery move up over the dihedral possibly 5.8. The real second pitch anchor was another forty feet up and back to the left, near the base of a left slanting crack, which leads to fields of knobs. I never did find the third or fourth pitch anchors. I was looking for a third pitch anchor on the big ledge straight above me, to the right of a large patch of bushes—although way off to the left, to the left of the bushes, through more knobs, was an anchor, which I reached by clambering inelegantly through the brush. It had rappel rings on it, going where, I didn't know. It may have been the correct third pitch anchor, and the guidebook description a little vague. The fourth pitch again slanted left through knobs, steep at first and then led to the topout, though I didn't see anchors at all there. Didn't really need them. Getting to the gully descent left was also pretty easy. No bushwhacking the whole day. And I brought too much gear as usual. The next day we took it even easier, and went to Eagle's Nest from the Shuteye Pass Trail, and climbed the short, sport route, Space Cadet 5.7, and top roped the 10b to the left, which seemed hard for the grade for me, but we only get outdoors 5 weekends a year. We're going back in July, and are hoping to do the Southeast Face of North Eagle Beak, though the guidebooks seem a little sketchy about what's there. If anyone has topo info about the routes there , I'd appreciate it. For us, a great weekend.
Milky Way Wall, left side
Start of Crossing the Milky Way
Looking down from the top of the second pitch to the anchor for Sons of Thunder
Looking up from the third pitch beginning with the left-slanting crack (left)
View from the saddle of the Shuteye Pass Trail
Karen on Space Cadet 5.7, Eagle's Nest
