Author Topic: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread  (Read 68100 times)

jeff

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #60 on: December 08, 2013, 08:59:19 am »
Well you know I love Gray.  Haven't got enough in the past couple of years.  But, at this time of year when it's sub zero temps in June Lake at night,  I will be in a T-shirt at the China Wall the next day.  And another cool thing there is I will probably see Peter Croft ginning ear to ear running up a dozen climbs loving it.

The reason the Gorge scares me is the ankle breaking,  or worse,  potential on so many climbs there.  Sport climbing has a façade of safety but on so many climbs in the Gorge there are so  many places you don't want to fall.  There were 3 injuries at least since Nov,  I am sure more.   And you are right about the crowds,  I've cringed multiple times watching people sketch clipping the 5th bolt on Hardly Wallbanger at the Pub.  Was amazed that one guy that fell there before making the clip was able to push off the ledge below as he flew past it.  A woman a few days before wasn't so lucky.  And I wouldn't want 90% of the people I see belaying there belaying me.  I feel the safest with Mony.  I have seen several 30+ foot falls.  This is sport climbing,  why are people taking 30' falls.  To many Sharma videos I guess,  but when he falls he doesn't hit the wall  it's all air.  Another thing there is so many bolts are in very questionable rock that vibrates when you hit it with your hand let alone a hammer.  But with all that said I am enjoying it a lot even when I am the dork carrying gear and sometimes placing it on sport routes when I can,  why not.


« Last Edit: December 08, 2013, 04:55:31 pm by jeff »

mungeclimber

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #61 on: December 08, 2013, 02:54:31 pm »
Lol, awesome dorkery!

Yeah, a number of routes there were done ground up before it was widely understood to bolt the first bolts in such a way as to minimize groundfall if establishing for the masses. 

Pics?

John

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #62 on: December 09, 2013, 08:43:13 am »
Well Jeff, you are looking at the ORG wrong, just pile up all the corpses to reach the first bolt easier.

susan

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #63 on: December 09, 2013, 01:15:50 pm »
I hear ya Jeff. What can you do? I don't mean that rhetorically. Witnessing accidents can be a day changer for sure.
 
 Hardly Wallbanger - what a name for the route. I don't know the climb, but a quick web search shows that it was originally led on all gear? Is the rock friable, or what's the story there? 

"Another thing there are so many bolts in very questionable rock that vibrate..." Ugh... that's messed up. ASCA time?

jeff

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #64 on: December 09, 2013, 07:27:06 pm »
Or a good crash pad when I fall going for the second bolt.


I don't know the story but part of the ORG lore is a guy free falling all the way from the anchor  on Hardley Wallbanger to the base and living.  Check those knots!


Lots of bolted cracks in the Gorge.

mungeclimber

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #65 on: December 09, 2013, 09:29:41 pm »
Quote
Lots of bolted cracks in the Gorge.

I think that's a pretty recent phenomena too. Admittedly until some of those cracks are scrubbed to the bone, the surface rot is substantial. But I'm still not settled with it.


John

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #66 on: December 10, 2013, 07:48:36 am »
I totally remember a few bolted cracks there. More like "mixed" climbs that bolts won over the gear. I am also an oddball by bringing gear down there too, Jeff. I do remember doing a cool trad line or two there without bolts...no lines on those.

jeff

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #67 on: December 10, 2013, 06:52:35 pm »
I keep scoping chossy cracks down there and wonder how much rock I need to remove to make it a worthy route that might get repeated.  How much choss is acceptable to remove.  There has got to be some solid rock at some point.

Oh and I placed a cam today on a face climb,  no decking for me baby.

mungeclimber

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #68 on: December 10, 2013, 09:56:16 pm »
Californiaclimber magazine issue arrived today with an article on the Gorge. stoked

susan

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #69 on: December 12, 2013, 08:51:02 am »
I imagine that you get to climb outside all the time these days Jeff. Much more than you could even in the Valley? Would love to see photos of the area. There's always the Beyond Section of the site. C'mon, make us envious. :D

jeff

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #70 on: December 16, 2013, 08:48:05 am »
I never bring a camera to the Gorge.  Kinda funny how layz I get.  Tired at the end of the day,  the less you bring down the less you have to hump out of that ditch. 

And yes,  it is kinda ideal in the winter. Today  I could go the Gorge and climb in the sun in shorts.  I could drive 5 min and climb ice here in June or I could also turn right and drive 3 min and ski on June mtn.

susan

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #71 on: December 17, 2013, 10:58:50 pm »
Well that sounds awesome. So glad.

Here feeling like hibernating when the days are so short and it's already dark after work. And with the holiday rush, just gonna try and go with the downward spiral of holiday feasts, drinks, cookie baking, gift shopping... and enjoy even tho all this conspires to reek havoc on climbing. So good to get out there last weekend.
« Last Edit: December 17, 2013, 11:01:05 pm by susan »

jeff

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #72 on: December 18, 2013, 07:54:12 am »
Glad you got out!  Chiquto?

The holidays do have their drawbacks.  Over here the crowds grow by 100%.   Lee Vining and the Roadside ice here in June get very busy and the Gorge becomes a zoo.  Over Turkey break it was hard to get parking in the Gorge,  had to park on the road,  not in the lot,  if you didn't get an early start.  The day after the break there were like 5 cars vs. the 50+ from the day before.

I feel very fortunate to live over here,  so much to do.  Although it's mostly sport climbing I am loving it in the Gorge.  Also, kinda funny that I saw three of the biggest names in traditional climbing,  Croft,  Potter,  Honnold,  this week in the Gorge loving it too.



mike a

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #73 on: December 18, 2013, 06:43:54 pm »
yes you are lucky living so close to the gorge, the gorge is one of my favorite places to climbing, i have been climbing in the gorge since 1991, to date i think i have climbed over 350 routes, and since 2001 i have been able stay at my friend place in bishop by the kragens auto store across the street from where the old vons store use to be, no more sleeping in the dirt for thid old guy :-), it's great to wake up in the morning to a shower and sleeping in a soft bed, since 2005 when marty put out his last gorge book, lots of new routes have poped up, so when i go to the gorge these days i look for new routes that are not in the 2005 book making it feel new and fresh, and it gives me a chance to make a topo of the new stuff at the gorge and share it will other climbers, some of the new routes that amy and i think are really fun are, road wave on the road down to the gorge from the south gate, super fun 2 pitch route to the right of funky cole patina on penstock rock, fun route to the right of environmental terrorist at the banana belt, the fun rope stretcher "70m rope needed" route on the far right on the pub wall, the in my mind the best 5.9 in the gorge, crusher, on the pop tart towers next to 3.b.a., and 3 super fun new routes on the narrows east wall, a 5.9, 5.10b, and a short but super fun 5.11a, i heared about a new 5.10c at the banana belt that i am psyched to check out, so yes you are really lucky :-) happy climbing mike a.

susan

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Re: SOYO weekly favorite pics thread
« Reply #74 on: December 19, 2013, 09:22:24 am »
Jeff, Your comparison of weekend to weekday out there made me think of the Field of Dreams movie phrase, "If you build it they will come." I've missed the east side though it sounds outta hand weekends. Still, I agree with Mike A., you are lucky to be there especially with time off during the week.

BTW, there was a good link to a Peter Mortimer interview with Hohnold and Peter Croft on ST that I saw a couple weeks ago. Definitely worth looking for... I wonder, did you get a chance to chat with them at all?

Yes, we trudged through the snow and climbed at Chiquito and Mammoth Pools. Blue skies and lots of snow. The roads kind of iffy. Only us out there breaking trail with no other souls in sight.
« Last Edit: December 19, 2013, 09:24:07 am by susan »