SOYO weekly favorite pics thread

[susan]

Dan on Hanaramic - Great climb!

This should rotate right soon.

[susan]

We did Powerline recently at Power Dome: Big Props to Kenny Rose & partner for it! Great rock, and sustained.
Here are a few shots from the first pitches. Deal was I took the first two and John the last two which worked out great.
I'll have to check with him about getting more photos from that day to post.





Felt like this wave of rock surges...

[donutnational]

Kenny at the base of powerline a few weeks ago

[donutnational]

Well that didn't work and I have to go to work.  I'll try again later

[susan]

O cool! I took a look at the photo in the upload section. Nice shot!

I've done that before.... more than once, heh. To fix, click the Mona Lisa button and paste that photo link in the popup window. You probably know all that. But if not or if that doesn't work, I could try it for you too.

By the way, John had me try out a simpler way to upload photos, which is far better. Can you make that method available to others yet, John?

[John]

I edited your post to link properly, Donutnational. Click the little photo of the mona lisa and paste the link in between what shows up, it should look like this:

[img ]http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/IMG_0372_resized.jpg[/img ]

(There are additional spaces added between the [img] tags in this example so they don't function)

So you guys did Powerline together? We have been going back to Power Dome over and over and over for like a month and have only seen one other party ever.

[susan]

Looking good! That's right around the time we climbed it. Huge testament to a great climb when the first up it want to climb it again and again....

It started to rain ☔️ that Saturday, was it Sep 2 or so, and we were not at all prepared for that when it began in the middle of the route. So glad it stayed nice out after all. Wouldn't want to go down only to backtrack across those unprotectable approach slabs when slippery...

p.s. Neglected to mention, we only had one 70m rope, which would have meant rapping off one bolt w/another to back it up generally spaced far away... Not a lot of other protection found esp. on the first two pitches....
pss... Of course that's our fault for committing to bring one rope instead of two ... I just mention it as for me it added an extra element of excitement with my over-active imagination... 😊

[John]

Donutnational-
If you guys did Powerline, did you use the bolted anchor on the summit? I couldn't find it as shown in the new guide and SEKI doesn't really have the details drawn in the topo. I suppose there is more than one way to finish that last pitch.

[donutnational]

John, I've never done powerline.  Swinging leads on powerline has been a goal of mine since Kenny and a few others convinced me that being old and out of shape was no excuse to quit climbing.  I've been in the parking lot several times planning to climb it but that plan always evaporated by the time I reached the base.  The most recent time we retreated to smegmathon.  Going up again this weekend, maybe I'll be able to use your pictures as inspiration and actually climb the route.  If I do I'll report back regarding the belay for the last pitch.

Thanks for fixing the picture of Kenny, he's a great guy even if Bud lite is his favorite beer.

[John]

We too have utilized the change-your-mind-on-the-approach technique many times, often when the caffeine from our inspired morning planning is wearing off!

Well it aint going anywhere and its a good route so I hope you give it a run.

How is Smegmathon?

[susan]

Thanks for fixing the picture of Kenny, he's a great guy even if Bud lite is his favorite beer.

Heh heh it's the family default beer - one I'm always happy to crack open. 

It's funny that the new guide states something about this being the sport climb on the dome....? Don't recall exact wording. But, on the first two pitches I was looking up to find the next bolt sometimes and could not see it. Had to trust that as the guide states, it's up there, not just somewhere ahead but kind of directly above. It worked out, but didn't feel like a sport climb. Anyway, seems something of a cheeky description in the guide...

Also, I found it to be a thought inducing climb, as I think are the other routes we've done so far on the dome, where I've found myself taking it gradually, thinking ahead a bit to make sure not to puzzle myself into a corner that I could only get out of by falling. Felt kind of like doing FAs in that sense, climbing on Powerdome.

[donutnational]

That's not much of a pep talk Susan.  I was hoping to read something like "it's not that bad, you can do it!" (despite the fact that you've never seen me climb).  It's better than one of my friends description which was something like: "there's a few kind of hard spots where if you fall you will get banged up".  As for Smegmathon it is an ok route, one 5.10 move with a bolt in your face and no runouts.  It's a good route to retreat to if your ambition in the parking lot exceeds your courage at the base. 

I think the sport route description is of Hannarama.  I first did Hannarama with my then 12 year old daughter.  She'd always wanted to climb Power Dome and I said I'd take her up Little Nukey .  When we got to the base I didn't remember where Little Nukey went so I picked the route that looked to have the most bolts and ended up doing Hannarma, which I think is the best non horrifying route I've done on Power Dome.  A 70 m rope and many quick draws is enough to link the 1st 2 pitches making one really good pitch and avoiding the only semi hanging belay, which sits just below the crux.

[susan]

O yeah, sorry bout that. Well, having only led the first two pitches and followed the last two of Powerline, I was unfortunately glad not leading p3&4... which I hope was more owing to 'second head' as we call it... Not a pleasure mind you. I've mentioned this before a couple of times, rather "second head" refers to the funk experienced when not leading, yet cruxing mentally about the potential difficulty of leading said route...

Anyway, I think if you feel as you do about Hannaramic, then seriously, go for pitches 1, 2 and/or 4 of Powerline... if shy of P3 the cruxiest pitch. 

I enjoyed Hannaramic very much even tho once again there were hmmm, sensations of, 'is this going to go ok, where is that next pro, and it doesn't always look like it will be all there..." but is. 

Hmmm... I'll see if I can find pictures of Hannaramic. But a lot of the photos of Power Dome look alike.

[susan]

I was looking for photos of Hannaramic but ran across these photos which I took of two people climbing Little Nukey the day we climbed Hannaramic. Do these shots happen to be of you & Kenny, Donutnational from middle of last month?


Photo will right itself soon.


Photo will left itself soon.

There's more of these in the "photos for use in the soyo site" area of the site.

[donutnational]

I think they are.  Little Nukey is another route we did instead of powerline.  I will show these to my wife to prove we actually climbed.