Titanic on Gray Eagle- loose rock warning

[John]

We climbed this route recently and found that the diamond-shaped yellow plate(s) at about 40 feet up are suspiciously perched in the corner and we think that they could come out. You can see them below Sue in the photo.

We didn't attempt to fiddle with them in fear of not being able to properly finish the job and leaving a timebomb. I would like to crowbar them out to be safe but have no plans to soon. You obviously can climb around it but be careful not to grab or stand on it. BTW, it seems to be harder than the earlier rating of 10a, more like 10c. Oops, not a lot of consensus to work with.

Hopefully the name of the climb suggests that you may want to be careful on it, ask the wingnuts that did the second pitch!

[jeff]

Hey you two,   how was it out at Gray?

Are those plates moving now.  I think folks were placing pro behind them.  I refused to touch them until I took my hammer to them to try and pry them last year.  I couldn't  get them to budge.

Thanks for the heads up.

I love that pitch.

[John]

 Yo Jefe!
I am partially glad that you couldn't get those plates out with a hammer but still worried. Sue was standing on it and I banged on it but no budging. I just don't know what is keeping them in there! Still wouldn't put gear around them. Eek.

Gray had the best conditions all weekend but we were pooped by then. I am embarrassed to admit we only did two routes, Titanic and Gravy Train then drank beers from the creek. Everyone was supposed to meet us there but they all stayed at Lost Eagle. Damn that place for its mutinous pools!(Not like there are mutants, but mutiny starting....you know what I mean, dammit!)

[susan]

Hi Jeff - We were hoping we might run into you there Saturday but missed ya. The hike up to Gray was hot, and it was even kind of hot to climb there in the shade. Otherwise, weather was clear all the long weekend.

So glad to hear your opinion on that that diamond-shaped chock stone. It suddenly looked to me while climbing up to it like a double-sided blade stacked jengis-like with a couple other dominos in the mix. I nearly pumped out trying to climb through there without touching them but ended up testing it out a little after John encouraged that he thought they were pretty-solid from times previous... They did feel solidly wedged together, but I worried that pro'ing or using them would unsettle them if not right away then over time. There are at least one or two other spots on that pitch that struck me as slightly iffy but which seemed minor comparatively. I do love this climb too -  the initial chimney, the little bit of overhanging positioning, the stemming, and the fact that much of it is crack climbing.

What do you feel is a good rating for that pitch? I heard Mike liked it a lot too?

[jeff]

Oh I wish I could have made it out there!   Last time out at Shuteye was when I saw you  and not sure if and when I will make it back.  So much driving for one day of being the third wheel.  Would have   been great to climb and hang with you.     Maybe I could have motivated more than 2 pitches out of you slackers.

As far as the Titanic p1 rating??    I thought  I  remember John calling it 5.9  originally???    I thought harder for sure so I just bumped it to 10a in my mind, but that felt stiff.   Mike liked it a lot and  also thought 10a was stiff.  10b or c does sound fair to me.

Did you guys do the extended  Gravy Train  and the second pitch?

[John]

5.9, yeah right. Sometimes I rate things 5.9 as a joke and don't make it clear I am joking. If I remember, Josh said really mean things about my mother when he climbed it thinking it was 5.9.

I am glad you said 10b or c. I thought b, Sue said c, you know the drill. I put 10a in my "notes".

Second pitch of Gravy Train would have affected our flawless record of getting nothing done that day, so no, we will have to do it next time. Looks sweet. I saw that line the first time on Titanic and remember thinking it had your name all over it.

Yer never a third wheel with us, but I see your hesitation for the long drive only for a day trip. We would drive a long ways to do a day trip with you though...sniff...its cool...sniff...we understand. Messin with ya, we miss you!

[YETI]

double-sided blade stacked jengis-like with a couple other dominos in the mix

Classic.

[jeff]

Would love  to go up on that route with you guys and maybe even finish that thing.   Also check out Rainbow Connection.   Anyone else been on that?               

[John]

Well, we need to get you back out there first.

[YETI]

Captains Quarters end of P2.  You could bivy 2 comfortably.

We could rap in from SJ route, send the sail and that dagger death block to the deck, do some swabbing and send!

[susan]

Very cool. Would love to see you guys finish that.

[YETI]

I will do the dirty work, just need a rope gun (s)