Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: mike a on June 18, 2018, 08:01:06 am
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Yesterday was hanging out at the Jones Store and then when to the balls to climb around, I could see from the road drill dust on the left side of No Name Ridge so went up to have a look see. Some one has been putting in lots of bolts up there! climbed a few of the newer routes they were ok but to me it seemed way over bolted and the routes were not well thought out, was wondering if No Name Ridge is in the wilderness area? and is it cool these PEOPLE just slap up bolts any old place to say(I am a first ascentiest) please don't get me wrong, I love new routes but seems like some PEOPLE up there are reckless with the beauty of the place and its all ego driven, and not for the love of climbing but the love of their ego! and I am sure they are going to put out a guide book soon!!! I use too think these PEOPLE were cool and ok but these days I have lost all respect for them and look at they as a threat to one of my favorite area!!! just some thoughts from Mike A. happy climbing :-)
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Hi Mike,
I have seen some very closely bolted routes ups there. Certainly not the style established for SoYo. This section of the Ansel Adams Wilderness (Formerly known as the Minarets Wilderness) is bounded at the 8000 ft contour so No Name isn't protected.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/wilderness-boundary.jpg)
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Love the Balls. Haven't been for a spell. Too many other projects on the mind. Will have to make a weekend up there some time this summer.
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Cool man thinks for the info and map, arechiga.
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Kind of odd how the boundaries come down so far in certain spots. Is that one the Sphinx?
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It looks like the tempest! the sphinx is far left.
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I keep thinking that large one might be the Toad. Or BoR?
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Not Toad. Yeah that other does look like possibly Sphinx?
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The layout of Balls has always been confusing, I blame Spencer. The top of BOR on the right is wilderness as is the top of The Toad in the center.
I'd prefer the wilderness went 50' from the road but that's just how I am.
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That's a good way to be Dan. Only, I'm glad for Spencer. Kept the adventure. (Added later: or better yet - what I'm really thinking of is the solitude.)
I was thrown about the Toad because visually in person the Toad appears close to the road to me, but the top of it does not. BoR really seems quite aways from the road in person to me. I wonder if that is the formation in the map around the word Balls maybe. Don't think Sphinx is in this quadrant, as I think that's far left of Portuguese creek.
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Here they are labeled. Check me and if I have anything wrong, I'll change it.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/wilderness-boundary-2.jpg)
Posted somewhere else:
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/BallsPano.jpg)
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Cool thanks sooo much for sharing that looks awesome to me, was up at the balls the pst 3 days, Jerry A had a party up at bowler camp site, next to where is was camping, did not join his party was feeling anti-climbers parting not really part of that crowd! but checked out a couple of Jerry's newer routes at No Name Ridge, I found only the 2 of the far right climbs good, worked on I boulder project, one move away from sending, too smokey today to climb at the balls so went to the Jones Store for a burg and brew and climbed at Fresno Dome to escape the smoke, and check out a awesome swimming holes just below Willow Creek Wall, should check it out youall super cool on a hot climbing day, just below Willow Creek Wall Parking area :-), sure is awesome living there, still wondering when John & Sue is going to move up here!!! lol :-), Happy climbing Mike A.
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That is an excellent photo of the Balls. I wonder where you took that picture from, Dan, but I don't want to ask if your answer feels like giving away the goods. We have scouted some hillsides across the way for an ideal shot without nearly the fortune.
I would have thought BOR is higher than GT. Anyway, there are lots of probable signs of non-wilderness type activity atop GT that I think we have all seen.
John indicated to me after my last post that there are two Portuguese creeks, and one is unnamed on this map. The unnamed one is where John, Ger and me took up a habit one summer at the end of a climbing day, or what we called our Sessions breaks, of hanging out where this beautiful creek tucks under Beasore near the overlook.
Sorry to hear it's gotten smokey out there, as I would have been about ready to see this area again right about now. But good to hear ahead of time to avoid the long trip.... Honestly, so many dead trees gotta burn, much as I hate to say it for fires taking down the good evergreens left.
Glad you got out there while the getting was good Mike.
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It was taken from the top of Jackass Butte with a telephoto lens. It's 5 photos stitched together.
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Awesome pic
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Thanks for sharing the over view pix of the balls dan it looks great, was up at the balls yesterday and the lion fire is still going but all the smoke is cleared out great temp up there, the cows are back in the meadow but no campers yet but I am sure people will start to show up the next couple weekends for the 4th, oakhurst is super busy today with vacation people!!! If any one is climbing at fresno dome area on a hot day and wants to beat the heat there is a fun swimming hole just below the parking area at the willow creek wall, it is a super chill spot on a hot day, happy climbing mike a.
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Thanks Mike!
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That view is worth a trip to the top of JB!
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Hey awesome peeps! Haven't been on the forum in some time.
Cool Balls panorama Dan.
On the topo, what you have noted as The Iguana is actually the Sphinx. The Iguana sits up and right, just inside the wilderness boundary, with a longish approach.
The Iguana IS labeled correctly on the photo, however, peeking above the trees. Also on the photo, the little bulge just right of JLT Dome (Jackass Lake Trailhead Dome) is Bowler Crag.
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Hey Nate! Its been too long. Great points!
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Hi Nate! We haven't seen you in a long time.
I'll have to fix the images and repost them to keep the universe balanced.
Unless the fires get out of hand, I think Bob and I will be poking around the Balls this weekend. We are taking his oldest boy on a camping/climbing trip.
I haven't climbed anything since 2016 so it will be interesting for me to see how the new plumbing holds up.
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thanks for the up date, i was at the Balls yesterday bouldering finally did this problem i have been trying for a couple weeks! the only climbers i have been seeing there is matt and grahm's cars parking below the sphinx on saturday's busy bolting everything in sight! grahm build a wooden bridge at the bottom of the sphinx on the trail, i am sure when they are done bolting everything they are going to put out a guide book to the area, i am not psyched on those guy's i think they are a bit over the top and reckless with such a beautiful and fragile area! but what ever, those kind of people will never change and i think they rock climb for all the wrong reasons!, not for the love of climbing but for the love of their ego!!! I know I know complaint department is on the 4th floor Lol quit whining and just climb arechiga :-),
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Hey all! Have fun up there Dan. I hope to make it up in the hills for my first time this summer in 2 weeks.
Your updates make me sad, Mike. Love the Balls.
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Interesting to see the amount of activity in this area. I'll health has forced my retirement from climbing but still have found memories of many days climbing at the Balls in the past. I may be able to get up there for a car camping trip this summer. Best to all-lars
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cheers Lars! The rock isn't going anywhere, visit anytime.
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Lars, schedule your trip for Sept 13-15. Should have a good group for Lunesta Fiesta.
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I replaced the first bolt on a unknown route on No Name Ridge a year or two ago and had to share it. Frankly, I think it is probably the most bomber improvised hanger I have seen in a long time! I even considered putting it back for its conversational value.
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/20190613_190128_resized.jpg)
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Sometimes when I have come across an old anchor that I thought was interesting, unique or perhaps historic, I have left it in place and put a new bolt next to it.
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On the subject of this route with the giant hanger, if anyone recognizes it or knows its history I would like to know the name. It is immediately left of Woodstock and we found it to be about 10b. One bolt, pro to 2" anchor at 75'.
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Morning all, did that route yesterday thanks to Paul and Dave for letting me join them, this a really fun route!👍