Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: John on March 25, 2014, 08:12:26 am
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There has always been a hush hush vibe around Southern Yosemite over the ages but most people do not realize that there have been well over a dozen guidebooks written in varying forms and sizes about the area. Some are select guides, many are for a handful of formations, and others are more comprehensive.
Here are some of the titles or descriptions:
1. Climber' Guide To Fresno Hinterlands by Royal Robbins -about 1975
2. The Climber's Guide to the High Sierra by Steve Roper 1976
3. Southern Yosemite Climbing By Mark and Shirley Spencer 1988
4. Rock 'N' Road: An Atlas of North American Rock Climbing Areas by Tim Toula
5. Vernon Mini Guide ~early 90's
6. Vernon R&I Mini Guide 1990
7. Rock Climbs of Gray Eagle by John Godar 2009
8. Slater "Friends and Family" Guide ~2010
9. JA Mini Guides
10. Hartmann Online Mini Guide-R&I.com 1996
11. California Road Trip A Climber’s Guide To Northern California by Tom Slater and Chris Summit
12. The Eagles Guide by John Godar 2010
13. Shuteye Rock by Grahm Doe 2013
14. Fresno Dome Climbing Guide by Mike Arechiga 2003
15. Shuteye Ridge Climbing Guide by Mike Arechiga
I am pretty sure I am forgetting some or don't know about all of them.
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most people do not realize that there have been well over a dozen guidebooks written in varying forms and sizes about the area.
This is in part because about half or more of these "guides" were not widely distributed at all, or only available word of mouth.
I do like the list though. And seeing as you are including mini-guides published online and in magazines, than there have also been mentions and topos over the years in the AAJ that could arguably be included in the list.
California Road Trip, A Climber's Guide to NorCal is from 2009.
When was Rock 'N' Road published (or last published, assuming he's been updating)?
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Yeah Nate, I kind of used the standard of, if it has a title it is a guide of some sorts. Some people over the years have a stack of topos with no real theme or title and I didn't put those down as a guide.
I thought of separating into print and current online guides. That would add RC.com, Mountainproject, Hartmanns Site, Matt Schutz's blog, Summitpost, and even more.
Rock and Road has been around for about 20 years. We have an old one with quite a few areas described with directions, some really obscure too.
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Cool. I think you should include links to all the online resources right here in this thread, perhaps.
Although less relevant, I've collected links over the past 10 years to almost all threads on ST that deal with anywhere in SoYo. Undoubtedly I missed some though.
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Here you go Nate-
Matts Blog:
http://shootersblarg.blogspot.com/2011/10/first-ascent-info-pre-guidebook.html (http://shootersblarg.blogspot.com/2011/10/first-ascent-info-pre-guidebook.html)
RC.com:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Western_Sierra/Shuteye_Ridge/ (http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Western_Sierra/Shuteye_Ridge/)
Summitpost:
http://www.summitpost.org/grey-eagle/173193 (http://www.summitpost.org/grey-eagle/173193)
http://www.summitpost.org/fresno-dome/151081 (http://www.summitpost.org/fresno-dome/151081)
Moutainproject:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/shuteye-ridge/108046101 (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/shuteye-ridge/108046101)
There is a photo of me here on the High Eagle-Main Wall I just spotted! I was on a very very chipped route.
Hartmann Site:
http://thfoto.com/soyo/ (http://thfoto.com/soyo/)
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Here is the Hartmann site, although a few topos from the original are no longer there:
http://thfoto.com/soyo/
And one of Slater's articles:
http://www.climbing.com/route/wake-up-call
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morning, this mike rael dude from yosemite is trying to put together a online bouldering guide for shuteye, he started to work on it last fall, he his it on facebook and a blog on it as well, he put me on the facebook a couple months ago and wanted me to add info to it, he basically wants everyone else to give him all the info so he can make his on line guide :-(, so i am no longer on his fb, if you guy's get a chance check it out, happy climbing mike a.Shuteye Ridge Climbing & Boulder Development Project
shuteyeridge
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I saw that Mike. He is also trying to get outhouses and signs installed on Shuteye Ridge by: "We will fund this request through fundraising, non-profits, grants, and sponsorship for this dream to come alive".
Sounds like he wants to fix a problem that doesn't exist but will if he tries to fix it. Self-fulfilling prophecy.
Sounds like he has good intentions but might not be the type that appreciates the lack of people and rangers out there. I think the bad roads and primitive camping probably protects Shuteye Ridge from being overwhelmed. Add outhouses, they need maintenance and cost quite a bit to maintain. Shuteye could end up like Lovers Leap..pay camping, no parking but plenty of rangers.
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Got distracted just yesterday looking at that bouldering site for the first time, mike. Much of what is proposed definitely seems at odds with the noble goal to preserve the pristine wilderness experience of the ridge.
The proposed non-profit guidebook benefiting the Access Club is an interesting idea, however.
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hi all, speaking of guide books, as soon as amy and i are finished with gold finger wall, family guy wall, the left and right side of south pillar wall, and the back side of hawk dome this year, i will put out my new fresno dome guide book, i think it will turn out pretty good, happy climbing mike a.
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I've never seen the Robbins Guide and would like to.
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Check your email Dan. Copy sent.
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Hey Mike. You appear to be using a simple editing program for your topos like Paint. If you want to upgrade to something better for free, try GIMP. It is a free, open-source program that is imitating Adobe Illustrator, the expensive standard professional program.
GIMP is weird and buggy sometimes and the icons for the features aren't intuitive but once you get used to it it is just fine. The best part is you can open files from Adobe Illustrator. You could get results that look just like Supertopo for example. And its free!
http://www.gimp.org/ (http://www.gimp.org/)
Just thought you might be interested in more options. Happy topo-ing!
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hey john, yes paint brush is what i use, but thanks a ton for that info, i will check it out, thanks again cheers arechiga.
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I've been using Gimp for at least 10 years if I recall correctly. Mostly I use it as a photo editor instead of buying photoshop. You can do a lot with it. There are many, many plugins for it so if it won't do what you want it to do, search the GIMP Registry for something that will do what you want. http://registry.gimp.org/ (http://registry.gimp.org/)
GIMP can open pretty much any image file. You can open and mark up PDF files for example.
It is a bit hard to figure out but there are lots of resources available online to help. Lots of youtube videos and the documentation at http://www.gimp.org/docs/ (http://www.gimp.org/docs/).
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hi guy's, thanks so much for the hot tip, i am super psyched to see how it works, paint brush works well, but maybe this will work better for my topos, i think that two of the things i do not like about the new shuteye book, grahm's book, is no hand made topos, and on his picture topos it does not show the crux nor where the bolts are, btw daniel, i met your son ford at castle the other weekend, he is a real nice guy, and a good climber as well, thanks again, happy friday and climbing, mike a.
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I like a combination of photo overlays and drawn topos.
I am not sure that I appreciate if the cruxes are marked. You are going to find your crux regardless of if it is marked. I just want to stay on the correct route.
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I dont mind seeing when the grade for the climb is pointed to at a certain part of a topo. I know this isn't what either of you mean, but I don't care for spoilers such as beta to manage a crux. It is ironic how a lot of info can result in some climbs not getting climbed so much.