Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: mungeclimber on February 18, 2014, 11:11:17 pm
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Have never visited. Definitely like this kind of climbing.
Would love to get some mileage this weekend if I don't end up getting cajoled into new routing elsewhere.
Post yer pics and beta here!
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oh, and I have the Kroll and Slater guidebook.
Any errors or issues? Good beta on the approach? Parking used to be an issue.
Can you drive to the top anymore?
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I've only been there once, took my son in March 2012. I didn't but you could drive to the top because the gate was open at the far end. The road at the other end would have taken something like a rock crawler to get up due to huge ruts. I didn't really know my way around so there was less climbing than I had hoped for. I led something on I think Hippo Wall that was easy until I got to the seeps at the top where the footing was slimy and scary. We did Tollhouse Traverse where I let the kid lead some and place gear. We climbed something in between but don't recall what.
The pink and chartreuse draws date from ~1990.
(http://danielmerrick.com/SOYO_photos/008.jpg)
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Been there maybe a half dozen times. All I remember is a bunch of the low angle stuff on the right side, some random cracks(names?) on the summit and Wandering Taoist. The thought of driving up that road from the start by the power line tower gives me nightmares. Kev W. somehow got a Subaru or something up there but he also got a Volvo up to High Eagle so there you go.
We have heard that WT was probably the best long route at Tollhouse. If that is true, I am in no rush to go back. It was just OK. It was hard to tell if you are on the right route and super crunchy. I hope there are better routes that we have missed.
P1 Wandering Taoist.
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/jhgodar/Public%20Pics/WanderingTaoist_zps8d37dcab.jpg)
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Interesting. A friend indicated that he thought that WT was a really fun climb.
It's one I had hoped to try.
That and the Tollhouse Traverse, of course.
Was reading the guide today and it talks of crowds.
Are there really that many climbers in the central valley?
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I am not saying it was a waste of time, but I suppose I had higher expectations. I remember that start was kinda heads up BTW. Mostly because it was so crumbly. I also remember unintentionally peeling off several holds around the start.
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Crowds? I've been maybe 3 or 4 times, often briefly, and there has always been 2 or 3 other parties there. But at a rock as big and packed with routes as Tollhouse, that's nothin'. There are more climbers than you'd think in Fresno and the rest of the Valley. Maybe some on this site will chime in eventually...
I've experienced some graininess there, but was mostly impressed with the rock quality and good friction.
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Never seen a crowd there. Hardly seen anyone there. I think of going to this place like I do Pinnacles - when rain or winter conditions are predicted everywhere else, a forecast here is worth checking.
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clearly, you've never lived in the central valley Susan. There is good rock there. Days worth of pitches.
and, I'll probably go to SPH anyways (prior commit).
lol
:)
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There are some good routes there most are face climbs. One of my favs is Nuts & Bolts. Has a chimney, water runnel, face and crack. Best variety in one route.
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Anyone going tomorrow?
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Nuts and Bolts is on the to-do list. Any more recommendations? Keep em coming!
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Thinking it may be too hot tomorrow at Thouse.
Which is odd since weather is coming in this week.
Maybe something closer, but what could be closer?
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Valley is perfect right now. Welcome to join us.
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Thx John. End up on the projects on SPH. Worthy day. Will send a pic or post up something later...
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Art Baker Memorial and then Platinum Plus to top out; , Ephant Walk, Free and Easy & Hang-em High.
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Thanks!
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Heading over for Friday day.
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Whats on the hit list?
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Traverse (since I'll be solo so far)
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So first ascent on a unicycle? Skis? Pony?
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FA with a sammich and BLL in my backpack.
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FA with a sammich and BLL in my backpack.
.......on a unicycle.
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May try and meet you depending on work. What time you planning to be there Munge?
Stay off Art Baker. It gets wet and very slick. Wait for a week or two of dry weather.
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roger that. Probably leaving pretty early. Targeting 9ish. Be cool to have ya out there.
Going to try and hit up Tiki Ger too.
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Tiki has to work
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Munge and DaveyTree -
I'll actually be in the hood tomorrow as well. Should be around the 4 corners by 9am, the rock by 9:30-10? Was wanting to head to the higher golden stuff, but the latest storms may keep me down to squarenail and tollhouse level. Sad to hear Tiki may be out - I hadn't heard yet from that cool cat. :( That likely means no partner for me, unless Roger H. shows up in the afternoon.
Can't recall if we've emailed before, but PM me here and we can exchange cell numbers perhaps.
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It's all good. Sent a txt.
Daveytree, going to send you my digits in pm.
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Take lotsa pictures kiddies!!!
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How was it you guys?
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CRUSHED! (as in a great day just farting around climbing good rock)
TH Traverse in 3 pitches to the rings just before the 3rd class section.
Beginners Delight - sweet 5.8 fingers to splitter crack
Ran a lap in my tennies on Beginners Right.
Some bolted "5.8" up on Hippo Wall on the way out.
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(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3216/13004298885_124894f931_c.jpg)
Disconcerting
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Yah that one bolt had a lot drama over it. Unk on who placed it. Sorry I missed out. Glad you got on something.
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That looks pretty bad. It is a waste of a bolt at a minimum.
Stoked you got out there Munge. I assume Nate made it?
More photos!
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Yah that one bolt had a lot drama over it. Unk on who placed it. Sorry I missed out. Glad you got on something.
Yeah, sorry we missed you Davey, and a few others. But it was a fine time - thanks Munge! Good to stretch the calves and get several pitches up on some granite, as it'd been awhile.
And that was not the only bolt next to that absolutely bomber crack - there were at least 2 others on the TT.
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more pics, you say?
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2470/13025175983_29cf54c433_c.jpg)
pro, what pro? we don't need pro.
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what? how did that get there?
I think I'm done with Pinnacles rock. Granite is so good quality. lol
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2356/13042145373_b8e82bb7fb_c.jpg)
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(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2498/13042012145_7069e8409e_c.jpg)
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(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2458/13042150463_e61f5c3a99_c.jpg)
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/13042154043_eb06558b3e_c.jpg)
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I think I'm done with Pinnacles rock. Granite is so good quality. lol
Lies, lies, lies.
Looks like a fun day and love the photos!
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Enjoying the posts! Who is the friend following your no gear pitch Munge?
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Friend from a group of climbers in Santa Cruz area.
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By the way, there is a hybrid tech friend in the crack where Beginner's Delight thin section gets a hand size pocket. With two nut tools and some patience, you could fully retrieve that thing.
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Also, good photo, Munge, of the perfectly pro-able crack. We have similar photos mainly from the ridge. There are gray areas, and to each his own, but when it's pure overkill showing a lack of knowledge about how to place gear, it tends to engender more of the same.
(http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/setageus/Uneededprotectionbolt.jpg)
Photo will right itself as this is not a traverse.
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There are gray areas, and to each his own, but when it's pure overkill showing a lack of knowledge about how to place gear, it tends to engender more of the same.
It is more like catering to a type of climber with no interest in carrying any gear other than quickdraws. Convenience, convenience, convenience.
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There are gray areas, and to each his own, but when it's pure overkill showing a lack of knowledge about how to place gear, it tends to engender more of the same.
It is more like catering to a type of climber with no interest in carrying any gear other than quickdraws. Convenience, convenience, convenience.
well, the TH Traverse bolts aren't really equipping the line to be done without gear for a leader at the grade.
where is the one you posted at Susan?
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This area is not in guides yet. We were there last year with you, Munge, with Jeff L, Josh, and Ger J. near the peak.
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If that is a photo of what I think it is, that area is actually in the Shuteye Guide. It is one of Grahms climbs at what he calls "Forgotten Corners" I think. More than one bolted crack there.
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well, the TH Traverse bolts aren't really equipping the line to be done without gear for a leader at the grade.
Funny too, because the bolts on the TH Traverse are placed sporadically on some of the easier sections of the climb, if short term memory serves, and not where you'd expect on the more runout less easy to protect semi-cruxy sections. Very puzzling.
I'm curious now to revisit the Mark Haymond 2nd edition guide to look at the bolt count (or lack thereof) from back then.
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My old Tollhouse guide shows 4 bolts on Tollhouse Traverse, all on the first pitch. Maybe even less or none originally? Bolts next to perfectly good cracks like in some of the photos could get worse because of the gym climbing crowd. A few years ago Sigrid and I were climbing at J Tree and this girl about 20 feet up a crack asked Sigrid "how do these cam things work?" Fortunately it was a sandy landing when she couldn't hang on any longer and fell. Turned out it was her and her boyfriends first time outside. Don't you think folks like that would prefer bolts? Scary where it could go with all the inexperienced out there.
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My old Tollhouse guide shows 4 bolts on Tollhouse Traverse, all on the first pitch. Maybe even less or none originally? Bolts next to perfectly good cracks like in some of the photos could get worse because of the gym climbing crowd. A few years ago Sigrid and I were climbing at J Tree and this girl about 20 feet up a crack asked Sigrid "how do these cam things work?" Fortunately it was a sandy landing when she couldn't hang on any longer and fell. Turned out it was her and her boyfriends first time outside. Don't you think folks like that would prefer bolts? Scary where it could go with all the inexperienced out there.
My worst nightmare! ... watching something like that, and then have them have an accident would be the absolute worst.
My skills at teaching are pretty woeful, so I tend not to engage in crazy situations like that. And I think it's compounded by my less than satisfactory rescue skills. So really, my comment is about my inability, as much as the inability of those new climbers coming out.
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In this case I set up a TR for them and told them to place something everywhere they could and then bounce test it to at least get an idea of what works. A 5.10 gym climber equals about 5.5 outdoors until they get some experience but no one tells them that. Don't get me wrong though, I think the gyms have also done a lot for the sport.
No offense to anyone but it seems that the big thing that gyms do is get people stoked on climbing then set them up to be hurt outdoors. If I meet someone who wants to start climbing I tell them to get a few private days with an AMGA or PCGI certified guide, see if they like it, practice placing pro with the guide and then go to the gym
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Shoot, I am impressed that this girl craters and still wants to climb at all!
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In this case I set up a TR for them and told them to place something everywhere they could and then bounce test it to at least get an idea of what works. A 5.10 gym climber equals about 5.5 outdoors until they get some experience but no one tells them that. Don't get me wrong though, I think the gyms have also done a lot for the sport.
No offense to anyone but it seems that the big thing that gyms do is get people stoked on climbing then set them up to be hurt outdoors. If I meet someone who wants to start climbing I tell them to get a few private days with an AMGA or PCGI certified guide, see if they like it, practice placing pro with the guide and then go to the gym
nicely done, and well said.
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hi jerry, yes well said, and sooo true!!!
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Very late on the draw here, but thought I'd add a few uploaded photos.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--SltYNy400U/U0BUdmnLRDI/AAAAAAAAAVs/pIcH1_3Ik7o/w379-h505-no/DSC08197.JPG)
Beginners Delight
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qK-USxkCeRY/U0BU0VfD6RI/AAAAAAAAAV0/3P5TO-EFQZE/w379-h505-no/DSC08193.JPG)
Munge following p.2 of TT
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KrOdIH6cJGM/U0BU1IZvQrI/AAAAAAAAAV8/ByiZGCykxro/w379-h505-no/DSC08192.JPG)
???
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Beginners delight looks sweet. That shot must have an excessive courtesy-tilt to still be called Beginners Delight? It looks so blank and steep.
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Munge actually commented on the lead that Beginner's Delight was not a good beginner's lead. It's all there, but a bit stout for a beginner with some delicate smears and tiny fingers. And actually, I just looked at the description in the 1984 Haymond guide and it said that the route was given that name by the FAists because it was a good beginner's aid climb.
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Two thumbs up on those pictures Nate!