Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions

Southern Yosemite Categories => Shuteye Ridge Area => Topic started by: Dave on October 28, 2013, 12:38:22 pm

Title: New Route on Lost Eagle ???
Post by: Dave on October 28, 2013, 12:38:22 pm
Ger and I were passing by LE this weekend on our way out from Unapologetic Stupidity Dome this weekend when we noticed three white frosted hangers doing up to the same anchors as Tales From The Wadi. The mystery route sits between Momma's Little Fledgling and Tales. Dave A.....did you put this up?
Title: Re: New Route on Lost Eagle ???
Post by: mungeclimber on October 28, 2013, 01:08:10 pm
If it's just left of Tales from the Wadi, I think that's John G's route.
Title: Re: New Route on Lost Eagle ???
Post by: NateD on October 28, 2013, 01:42:39 pm
From the Guidebook - Additions, Corrections, Comments thread, John wrote:

Melting Wall:
Unnamed Route-5.7 John Godar, Sean Neville 7/2013; Water streak about 8' right of "Mommas Little Fledgeling". Belay at crack. No anchor, so walk off is necessary.

I assumed this was just a pure trad pitch on the knobby Melting Wall proper - right of p.2 of Mommas, but maybe it goes up the slab below as well, in which case the bolt count could have been noted, and maybe the number of pitches. Yours John?
Title: Re: New Route on Lost Eagle ???
Post by: YETI on October 28, 2013, 01:48:56 pm
Quote
white frosted hangers


White is light ;D



Title: Re: New Route on Lost Eagle ???
Post by: John on October 28, 2013, 02:12:45 pm
The bolted line is not mine but actually put up by a different John G. along with Justin B., and named "Navel Eagle" and is a 5.6 or 5.7. It is a stand-alone, one-pitch climb done ground up and hand drilled from stance.

There are some new routes and formations being named after eagles in direct response to Matt S.'s route, "No More Fucking Eagle Names" on Unapologetic Statement Dome. This is one of them.
Title: Re: New Route on Lost Eagle ???
Post by: Dave on October 28, 2013, 02:58:52 pm
If only.
Title: Re: New Route on Lost Eagle ???
Post by: susan on October 29, 2013, 09:49:30 am
Navel Eagle not because of the Navy but because of the hole in the wall that looks like a belly button, right?
Title: Re: New Route on Lost Eagle ???
Post by: sneville on November 06, 2013, 12:21:34 pm
I believe john godar soloed this route a month before they put it up.  Yeti, don't you recall?


Sean
Title: Re: New Route on Lost Eagle ???
Post by: YETI on November 08, 2013, 12:45:21 pm
Yeah, I seem to remember seeing John to the right of that 10A, ropeless and grinning.