Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions

Southern Yosemite Categories => General Discussion => Topic started by: mungeclimber on October 20, 2013, 12:46:45 am

Title: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on October 20, 2013, 12:46:45 am
Assuming the snow isn't uber deep what areas are the most accessible (and not typically gated off)

Mammoth Pool
Wawona I've seen climbed in light winter conditions


???
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: Jerry on October 20, 2013, 08:34:07 am
Wawona Dome is usually accessible a few days after a storm. There are also numerous south facing crags anong the South Fork of the Merced not far above Wawona that are climbable most of there winter. Best bet is to use a combination of the Spencer guide and just some exploring as there are a bunch of new routes by Jeff S and Eric Sloan.

Along Minarets Road the Mile High area is your best bet as the road really gets clogged with snow beyond the vista. Outside of Fresno there is Squarenail for fun easy to hard 1 pitch routes (needs some new bolts, on my list for this winter) and Tollhouse for mostly multi pitch moderates to maybe 10a. A few harder and shorter routes as well as some TR's on top.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on October 20, 2013, 11:51:42 am
thx Jerry!

For the Mile High Areas, does that include Dutch Oven wall? I think that approach comes in from the road to Grey, which is past the Vista.

Tollhouse is high on the list. I still haven't been there and I love slab climbing (having gotten my start climbing in Joshua Tree).

Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: NateD on October 20, 2013, 11:15:45 pm
Decent bouldering along the San Joaquin down at Squaw Leap near Auberry. At one time, Grahm thought of including a mini bouldering guide to the area within his Shuteye guide.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on October 20, 2013, 11:24:47 pm
hmmm, hadn't thought about bouldering there in the winter. I'd probably hit Columbia seeing how close it is and all.

Then again, I'm always up for something new.






Can one drive "French" road to "Shake Flat" road to Mammoth Pool?
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on October 21, 2013, 07:02:07 am
It is all about the gates and in the Sierra NF they officially are to be all locked on December 1st and are not to open until May 1st. Beasore is not gated and Minarets has a gate just past the turnoff for Mammoth Pools. The next issue would be likeliness of snow on the roads and the snow tends to stick the earliest/longest around Mile High Vista on Minarets and just before Cold Springs Summit on Beasore. Mile High is probably the only consistently accessible crag in winter. Tranquility too, but that would be a serious level of commitment to rap into there in winter.

When the gates are locked, in theory you can still get to any where you are willing to hike to past the gates.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: Jerry on October 21, 2013, 11:17:21 am
Hey Munge- Send me your email and I will send you topo's and directions for Mile High. I'll never figure out how to do it on the forum. Or John has the topo's and he may just want to post it for everyone. My email: camp-4@sti.net

ps for anyone out here this winter, I'm done with Tahoe so will be around much of the winter.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on October 21, 2013, 10:27:25 pm
Jerry, do you want me to put your topos up on the site? It's your call.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: NateD on November 14, 2013, 05:25:32 pm
This little stuff below Redinger Dam is pretty fun if you've got a half day and want a diversion from Tollhouse or Squarenail.

Nice 5.8 crack traverse. Too bad it was bolted many years ago, as you can see. But you need a very large biner to make the clip! And don't fall on the spikes, or drop any gear, as you might need to take a swim to recover it.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/10858216115_8b08a3d9e5_c.jpg)

Diggin' for worms:
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2873/10858559533_53f43366d0_c.jpg)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7298/10858374294_ecd79338be_c.jpg)
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 14, 2013, 05:28:19 pm
Wow, what a "bolt"!

Get your Tetanus shots before climbing there!
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: Jerry on November 14, 2013, 05:51:45 pm
When I did the Lost Arrow back in the 60's the rap anchors on the top were almost that big. No idea if they are still there.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: YETI on November 14, 2013, 10:11:55 pm
What happened to the #3?  Did it spit it's carabiner off?

That crack reminds me of a lead I had a while back.  Dead horizontal, and perfect.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: NateD on November 14, 2013, 11:22:42 pm
What happened to the #3?  Did it spit it's carabiner off?

Good eye. Ger followed before Leo (pictured), tying into the middle of the rope. In the process of unclipping, the biner jumped ship and bounded down the slab below before going for a swim in a deep dark pool. I wailed like Gollum at the loss of The One Ring for a brief moment.  :)
What with the huge releases of water from the dam at times (making climbing here periodically impossible to access) I reckon my biner has made it's way miles downstream and now sits at the bottom of Kerckhoff Reservoir, silently awaiting a new bearer...

Was your splitter crack traverse the one on Liberty Cap? If memory serves, super photogenic! What did that pitch go at free?
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 15, 2013, 07:55:50 am
I wonder if they glue that stuff into the rock. The bars in the rock at Mammoth Pools Dam seem to be the actual drill bit permanently lodged and/or glued into the rock. I was inspecting this big ring in the rock next to the Arch Rock parking lot and couldn't tell whet the heck keeps it in there. I hope it isn't just pounded in there, that would be kinda weak.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on November 15, 2013, 08:12:50 am
Hmmm, water, big old eye bolts, water polished rocks...
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 15, 2013, 08:24:56 am
Would the ASCA supply a replacement bolt for that biggie?
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: YETI on November 15, 2013, 08:36:35 am
Nate- yeah same one. I couldn't believe it kept going, and going.

It turned out to be mid .11, for the length of my pitch, though they started from beginning of the crack a bit up and right adding around 30-40 ft.

I ran out of cams (I had 5 ea) and was hand placing bomber angles toward the end.

Coolest pitch I have ever lead.

Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 18, 2013, 07:22:14 am
Only two more weekends left of open gates!!! Mayday, mayday, mayday!
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on November 20, 2013, 07:29:33 am
Little snow accumulation expected? Temp forecast for weekend looking promising.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 20, 2013, 07:40:52 am
I am so curious why you care, Mr. got other plans I am not addicted to Soyo I can quit any time but I just don't want to.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on November 20, 2013, 08:01:06 am
I REFUSE TO CLIMB IN SOYO THIS WEEKEND!













unless of course I change my mind
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: Jerry on November 20, 2013, 08:08:33 am
8:10 AM on Wednesday and a beautiful sunny morning in spite of the forecast
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 20, 2013, 08:25:41 am
Wow, and your forecast looks really bad. No dark clouds in the horizon?

It is a conspiracy by the NOAA climbers!!
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on November 20, 2013, 08:36:15 am
bunch of jerks over there
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: Jerry on November 20, 2013, 08:38:52 am
A little fog down towards Oakhurst and some high thin clouds but basically warm and sunny. Doppler shows a few light scattered showers to the north, satillite and water vapor images don't show much for now so maybe reforming later? Who knows! Reno NWS, the most accurate one I've found, says it is a very difficult forecast with models all over the place.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on November 20, 2013, 09:20:16 am
yesterday my buddy says at his cabin at 6k, there was no snow in the early evening. Only this morning am I seeing Kirkwood has any appreciable base snow. With the soyo being so southerly, etc...

I may have to repack the truck for another weekend. gah!

Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: susan on November 20, 2013, 11:38:23 am
It's pouring rain down here in the Bay Area right now. Been a long time. Love it though. Being from the NW, rain must bring back good memories. Anyway, we are working today, so no big deal.
 
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on November 20, 2013, 04:53:15 pm
couple inches of snow on Dodge Ridge Summit. Base looks limited. Nothing at Bumblebee which is around 5500, IIRC.

Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 20, 2013, 05:02:59 pm
The weather that far north doesn't really apply to Soyo very much. If you like pretty weather maps and a handy way to find the driest parts of California, try the "Experimental Graphical Forecast" on the NOAA site and you can mouse over the different subjects of maps like temp, chance of precip., amount of rain, etc. and find where the weather patterns change or start/end. Really handy in the winter.....or depressing when it is all bad news.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on November 20, 2013, 05:23:43 pm
Of course, but there are no web cams or people I know that live on minarets.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 20, 2013, 07:51:57 pm
Not too many people live on Minarets and I doubt the ones that do have webcams. Stop by one of the houses with some cookies and an extra webcam?
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: NateD on November 20, 2013, 11:18:23 pm
You guys need to get to know someone who lives in Arnold Meadow, also known as High Sierra Meadow. They used to have a blog of sorts where one could glean some info now and then. Can't tell how active it is, but here's a link to explore:
http://www.studiofiodh.com/highsierrameadows/

There was a climber on ST that had a small cabin or lot there, but can't recall his name. Maybe he's reading this now and will chime in.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 21, 2013, 06:10:02 am
There was a cool site link in your site link, Nate.

I found this photo of the dam wall at Mammoth Pools before the dam was built. Note, the bushy ledge on the right end of the wall about halfway up is where the road is now. You can see the corner of 19th Hole climb in the photo too with an extra pitch below it.

http://hdl.huntington.org/cdm/ref/collection/p16003coll2/id/39519 (http://hdl.huntington.org/cdm/ref/collection/p16003coll2/id/39519)

Here is a link to the main menu of the photo album:
http://hdl.huntington.org/cdm/search/searchterm/mammoth%20pool/mode/all/order/nosort/page/1 (http://hdl.huntington.org/cdm/search/searchterm/mammoth%20pool/mode/all/order/nosort/page/1)
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on November 21, 2013, 08:59:09 am
http://www.mk-webcam.net/

elevation 7800

average the two, and you get Shuteye right?
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 22, 2013, 07:38:33 am
I tell you one thing, I am going to sleep as far as possible from any trees that could blow over this weekend. Been a little spooked after the incident a month or so ago when a giant tree fell right where Sean was parked/sleeping a couple of nights prior to the wind storm. Sean would have been much shorter.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: jeff on November 22, 2013, 10:34:01 am
Yikes!  Where was that John?
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on November 25, 2013, 07:04:56 am
That was at the Fuller trailhead. By the way, I forgot to mention another tree fell pretty much on top of the first one! The trees really hated where Sean parked.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on December 05, 2013, 08:52:42 am
I hope the snow doesn't stick from this storm coming up. Last weekend the Sierra Scenic Byway sign just out of North Fork had a closed sign on it already so I wonder if they locked the gates yet.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mike a on December 05, 2013, 05:40:01 pm
hi climbers, grahm posted today that he went snow mobiling after work yesterday, and it looked like he is on beasore rd, and the snow looks pretty deep, so i think the climbing season for us who do not have a snow mobile is done :-(, O well, i am sure glad i climbed last weekend up there, this weekend the temps do not look like they are going to be higher then the 30's and lows in the one digets brrrrrrrrrrrrrr,
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: susan on December 06, 2013, 08:28:35 am
Yes - very glad to have gotten out there last weekend for sure. It was summer in the sun. Icy in the shade.

Gotta say the snowmobiling would be awesome.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on December 16, 2013, 06:06:02 am
Quick update for the Southern end of Shuteye Ridge as of 12/16:

Gates to the dirt FS roads are all locked for the winter.
Pekinpah and Grizzly are locked despite our kicking the gates and yelling at the locks.
Minarets is lightly snowy but easily passable. The gate is closed past the Mammoth Pools turnoff.
Mammoth Pools is reachable all the way to the dam.
Chiquito is totally dry. Mile High is dry.

All I got. Over.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: susan on January 29, 2014, 01:57:10 pm
Actually glad to see snow coming to the Sierra. It's way too crispy out there. Doubtful this small dose will do much though.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on January 30, 2014, 08:07:37 pm
http://forecast.weather.gov/showsigwx.php?warnzone=CAZ096&warncounty=CAC039&firewxzone=CAZ296&local_place1=&product1=Winter+Weather+Advisory#.Uusd3aOYaEU

Quote
A WINTER WEATHER ADVISORY ABOVE 7000 FEET REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL
4 AM PST FRIDAY FOR THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA FROM YOSEMITE TO
KINGS CANYON.

* SNOW ACCUMULATIONS: 5 TO 12 INCHES.

* TIMING: SNOW WILL CONTINUE...HEAVY AT TIMES...ABOVE 7000 FEET
  THROUGH TONIGHT. LIGHTER ACCUMULATIONS OF SNOW WILL OCCUR
  DOWN TO THE 4000 FOOT LEVEL BY THIS EVENING AS COLDER AIR
  INVADES THE REGION. SNOW WILL DIMINISH TO FLURRIES FRIDAY
  MORNING.

* LOCATIONS INCLUDE: TUOLUMNE MEADOWS...YOSEMITE...MARIPOSA
  GROVE...WHITE WOLF...HUNTINGTON LAKE.

* WINDS: GUSTS OF AT LEAST 55 MPH OVER EXPOSED RIDGES WILL
  CAUSE CONSIDERABLE BLOWING AND DRIFTING SNOW.

* IMPACTS: BLOWING AND DRIFTING OF SNOW MAY RESTRICT
  VISIBILITIES MAKING TRAVEL HAZARDOUS WITH POSSIBLE ROAD
  RESTRICTIONS AND CLOSURES. BRING A WINTER KIT...INCLUDING
  CHAINS...WITH YOU IF YOU TRAVEL THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on February 01, 2014, 09:08:06 am
I am feeling guilty for having rooted for drought conditions...now that we are in drought conditions. Snow=good.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on February 03, 2014, 10:30:32 am
Any word on conditions out there after the last snow? Thanks.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mike a on February 03, 2014, 10:11:39 pm
hey john, matt posted about 12" on cold springs summit on beasore road, more snow to come wed night, i hope i can not get back up there until mid-may :-), we all need the water!!!
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on February 04, 2014, 05:52:47 am
Thanks Mike. Sounds like this weekend might be unlikely. It is like a mini winter!
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on February 12, 2014, 01:15:35 pm
Any word on the roads?
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on March 12, 2014, 10:24:28 am
CHILKOOT MEADOW (CHM) snow sensor reports 9 inches today. Average for April 1 is 36.6 inches
http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/queryF_ss?chm (http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/queryF_ss?chm)
http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/profile?s=CHM&type=snwc (http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/profile?s=CHM&type=snwc)

GRAVEYARD MEADOW (GRV) reports 3 inches with the April 1 average of 18.8 inches.
http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/queryF_ss?grv (http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/queryF_ss?grv)
http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/profile?s=GRV&type=snws (http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/profile?s=GRV&type=snws)

Looks like we will have early access to back country this year.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on March 12, 2014, 10:40:42 am
Very handy!

What is "Snow WC" versus "Snow DP"? The latter would be more depressing at 30 inches versus 9.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: daniel banquo merrick on March 12, 2014, 12:23:23 pm
Well John, you just pointed out how dumb I am. WC is water content or the depth of water if you melted the snow. So, I had it wrong, Graveyard shows 9" of snow which is about 3" of water. Chilkoot shows 30" of snow which is 9" of water. The averages don't say whether it is snow or water so right now the average means nothing to me.

However, changing the year in the URL reveals that in 2013 on March 11, Chilkoot showed 19" WC and Graveyard about 11".

For Chilkoot WC on March 11:
2014 - 9"
2013 - 19"
2012 - 10"
2011 - 31"
2010 - 43"
2009 - 31"
2008 - 45"
2007 - 23"
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on March 12, 2014, 08:02:38 pm
Dan, if you are dumb then that puts me somewhere between a Dung Beetle and a really smart pigeon.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: Jerry on March 24, 2014, 05:59:39 pm
3 to 1 snow, 30" equaling 9" of water is barely snow. Average is 10 to 1 and in colder storms can go as high as 20 or 25 to 1. 20 to 25 to 1 is common in the Rockies and we even see it in the Sierra at times.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on March 30, 2014, 06:47:38 pm
Lookin good for next weekend, eh?
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on March 30, 2014, 07:33:35 pm
Grim.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on March 30, 2014, 08:02:55 pm
Wha? This is gold....

Friday A 20 percent chance of showers. Partly sunny, with a high near 52. Northeast wind around 5 mph becoming west southwest in the morning.
Friday Night Mostly cloudy, with a low around 31. West wind 5 to 10 mph becoming east northeast in the evening.
Saturday Partly sunny, with a high near 58. East wind around 5 mph becoming south southeast in the morning.
Saturday Night Mostly cloudy, with a low around 33. Southwest wind around 5 mph becoming northeast in the evening.
Sunday Mostly sunny, with a high near 66. Northeast wind around 5 mph becoming west southwest in the morning.
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: mungeclimber on March 30, 2014, 10:47:37 pm
Yep, ice road trucker with Gate ramming front end?
Title: Re: Winter Accessible areas
Post by: John on March 31, 2014, 05:29:18 am
Aaah, you think they relock the gates every time it snows. Pretty sure the open ones will stay open and the rest will remain closed until May 1st.