Lunesta Fiesta #6

[DaveyTree]

Setting dates now so people can plan. July 27-29, 2018.

[DaveyTree]

Little over a month away. Hope some of you are planning to show. Paul will have his brew again for donation and I plan to bring a huge batch to make duck tacos for those in attendance. My new recipe is really good. I believe Sat will be the night climb during the full moon.

[mike a]

I will be there for sure be super psyched to see everyone, cheers!

[susan]

Sounds fun!!!

[mungeclimber]

Duck Tacos sound amazeballs!

[DaveyTree]

They are. You going to make it Munge?

[mungeclimber]

I feel like I'm obligated to now, having bailed out a couple times now. 

[DaveyTree]

I finally get to meet the Munge face to face. You have to show now!

[DaveyTree]

I have so many lies to tell you

[mungeclimber]

LOL, awesome!

[DaveyTree]

Last year At Lunesta Paul and I were going to climb Gastly Gulch on Saturday I believe. Not have climbed it before and a bit not thinking straight from the previous night’s festivities, we ended up on a different line that went about 5.7 and went all trad to a big ledge. Turns out it was an FA and we named it Lunesta Fiesta 5.7 55m pro to #2. I wanted to add a bolt to protect a ground fall on repeat and see if it would go to the top. Would have to return with a few bolts.

It wasn’t until last weekend that we made it back to try to continue the line. Turned out to be an outstanding line going to the top, Lunesta Fiesta 5.7 4P 500’. First pitch starts to the left of Friction Daddy just left of the book on an ‘A’ shaped under flake off the ground. Head up face past a bolt and pro in bottom of book. Move left on top of book to a hand crack and then thru small cracks, flakes and featured face to a tiny ledge before stemming up to a giant ledge to sling a boulder. 55m. There is a nice block halfway you can sling on top edge of book above Friction Daddy if escape is needed with a single rope.

P2 starts on top of a boulder on the ledge with an awkward move, protected with a bolt into twin right leaning cracks. Up right for more gear then back left thru face to a ledge then up chicken heads to lunch ledge to the left of where Friction Daddy and Looking Glass end in the guide books. We slung a chock stone under a boulder just above the chicken heads for the anchor or you can move to the wall 20’ left to a set of anchors where Papa Pokey Bear comes up to this ledge before it moves belay. 35m

P3 starts just right of an arch on the back wall of the ledge moving up left on a traversing crack that runs out. Move up left on patina past 3x to cracks and easier climbing to another big ledge. Bolted anchor.

This ledge is the lower left portion of the ledge that Pokey’s last pitch starts from. This left portion of the ledge has two options to finish which are straight up past 2x to easy runout (which we did) 30m or up right on a scare/crack past 1x to a head wall with a crack that takes a #2 and is reminiscent move of the finish head wall of Tollhouse Traverse but on your right side. This second option I have always used as P4 for Looking Glass extension with P3 up the lieback flake up (where P3 of Pokey starts) and scrambling up left to the anchors. We thought about placing our own P4 but the two finishing options are both fun and we would have crowded it without adding anything of significance.

Ended up being a really fun route with a little of every kind of climbing with a few attention getters. Will be interesting to climb it without my huge 36v Bosch and gear which I used thinking my 12v Milwaukee had gone bad but found out later I just needed a new bit. LAME. Paul and I plan to repeat it at Lunesta Fiesta #6 if we don’t get up there before. I look forward to hearing some feed back.

To be honest I really feel blessed to be able to put up a route on such an awesome stone with Paulie that has so much history for climbing in the area.

[susan]

TFPU! Congrats! Nice way to say it, "To be honest I really feel blessed to be able to put up a route on such an awesome stone with Paulie that has so much history for climbing in the area. " And thanks for the detailed description. Though I'm a little uncertain how it goes, I trust it would make sense in person.

Nice to hear your efforts and consideration for not overcrowding... There really isn't much left on that dome, is there. Yeah, that wall looked pretty darn blank that you passed through last year. As you thought it worthy, I thought P1 definitely looked like it could use protection.

[DaveyTree]

Last year I started a little more left from the ground and 50’ to the hand crack had my attention. From the under flake I was able to find some pro and only needed one bolt which I was pumped about. The fact that it went mostly pro beside 5x for the 3 pitches we added was also a bonus.

[DaveyTree]

Paul's menu will consist of a pomegranate cider, an IPA, a Rye Lauger and Pilsner. Brewing will commence this weekend. Paul and I will ensure they are all drinkable prior to Lunesta.

[susan]

Hah ha - let us know if you need any help ensuring that How fun!