Fresno Dome Mystery Climbs-Seeking Names and FA Information

[Jerry]

Hi again Mike- Your route on Hawk Dome "My Pussy Hurts" is 5.8? That is good news I always heard 10+ R so avoided it like anything!

[mike a]

hi jerry, yes i did, but can not remember right now, i saw the name of the fa's and the routes name in the back the climbing, back in the day, old climbing mag's would post new routes, thanks soooo much for the new bolts on second honeymoon, it's a great line, and sorry about my route on hawk dome, m.p.h's, but i had 3 other bro's climb it, and we all said" yah sure 5.8", i guess we are all just a bunch of sand bagger's  :-), the stuff you put up on hawk dome are super fun and i still climb they all the time, really love them, i guess they make up for my sand bagger on hank dome lol :-), happy climbing mike a.

[Jerry]

"2HP" on Hawk is also a politically incorrect name. That hole is rather anatomocally correct and you stick two hands into it sooo..."Two Handed Pussy" seemed like a very obvious name to Albert and I.

[DaveyTree]

Thanks Jerry. My group climbed Fresno Flats and the other group went up next to us on yours. When they got to the headwall on top he mentioned seeing bolts that went strait up the verticle wall to top out. We trended right so I didn't get to see them and they followed us. Is that an optional ending of yours?

Mike A., MPH and 2PH, Love funny names. I will have to check my topos to see if those are on there. Are they labeled in your spiral guide? I got one from you last year.

[mike a]

morning, hope youall are enjoying the awesome climbing weather, hey at jerry or anyone who knows what's up with the fixed line between south pillar and whiskey bill, it's been there for years, is it a old albert line???, if so, i would like to finish the route up for albert in honor of my good friend, and to clean up that old line, if it was a albert project, i know for sure he would be cool with me finishing it and putting off his old cord, amy and i went on chicken slaughter on friday, and the move to the second bolt is a little scetchy, if you blow it going to the second clip, you will hit the ground for sure, it's tuff steep slab climbing, but great route,i will have a pix topo for both routes, bird flu as well, will post it tonight on my bucket photos pix, and in my book on those 2 climbs, i gave bad beta, i had them wrong, bird flu is on the left, thanks for the info, happy climbing mike a.

[DaveyTree]

Cool Mike. Love to see some pics. Never climbed those. No idea on the owner of the rope but it has been there for a looong time. Beyond the time I would say you hold any project.

[YETI]

That would be pretty cool if that was an Albert Proj., and that you were able to finish it off in style.

Only hung out with him for 1 weekend, but man he was the life of the party.

One cool cat.

[susan]

Any luck finding out more about this line yet Mike? Seems a sweet gesture just trying to find out more about it. I'd expect that Albert knew a lot of people and this may take some time.

[mike a]

morning, no have not heard anything, but i think jerry would be the one to know the most about it, have a great weekend, cheers mike a.

[John]

Anybody climb the neon green corner above some "delicate" flake climbing on the far left of Hawk Dome? Jerry thinks it is an Albert route, but wanted to confirm. He calls it 11a, which seems about right. The corner is awesome, the lower part is kinda sketch. It has an anchor.

Just following up on the "feral" climbs when I am thinking about it.

[susan]

Photo of the first part of the crack, unfortunately didn't get one yet of the best upper green lichen corner.

[susan]

This too is a gem - any info on it?

[John]

The last one is Time Lapse, a Jerry A route. Really fun.

[mike a]

hey john, hope your summer of climbing is a good one, i was wondering if you got any info on 3 routes i saw on the far right side of hawk dome in between hawk dome and echo wall, 2 of them go up a slab going to the top of hawk dome with chain anchors at the start of they, and the right of they a 2 bolt start going up a couple cracks to the top of hawk dome, i asked jerry a couple months ago for info he has on fresno dome, he said he would hook me up in a couple days, but that was a couple months ago, i have e-mail him back, but i have heard nothing from him, i want to have the right info for my new fresno dome book that i am going to have out in a couple months, if you can help thanks a ton, happy climbing mike a.

[John]

Hi Mike
I am away from my main computer until next week so I can give you better info then.

 I think one of the climbs you are referring to is called "A Little Old School And A Little New School" - 5.9. Goes up some zig-zaggy cracks with a few bolts here and there. You know about Bird Flu and Chicken Slaughter, right?