Southern Yosemite Climbing Discussions
Southern Yosemite Categories => Fresno Dome Area => Topic started by: DaveyTree on September 10, 2017, 09:32:07 pm
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Setting dates now so people can plan. July 27-29, 2018.
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Little over a month away. Hope some of you are planning to show. Paul will have his brew again for donation and I plan to bring a huge batch to make duck tacos for those in attendance. My new recipe is really good. I believe Sat will be the night climb during the full moon.
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I will be there for sure be super psyched to see everyone, cheers!
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Sounds fun!!!
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Duck Tacos sound amazeballs!
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They are. You going to make it Munge?
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I feel like I'm obligated to now, having bailed out a couple times now. 8)
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I finally get to meet the Munge face to face. You have to show now!
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I have so many lies to tell you
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LOL, awesome!
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Last year At Lunesta Paul and I were going to climb Gastly Gulch on Saturday I believe. Not have climbed it before and a bit not thinking straight from the previous night’s festivities, we ended up on a different line that went about 5.7 and went all trad to a big ledge. Turns out it was an FA and we named it Lunesta Fiesta 5.7 55m pro to #2. I wanted to add a bolt to protect a ground fall on repeat and see if it would go to the top. Would have to return with a few bolts.
It wasn’t until last weekend that we made it back to try to continue the line. Turned out to be an outstanding line going to the top, Lunesta Fiesta 5.7 4P 500’. First pitch starts to the left of Friction Daddy just left of the book on an ‘A’ shaped under flake off the ground. Head up face past a bolt and pro in bottom of book. Move left on top of book to a hand crack and then thru small cracks, flakes and featured face to a tiny ledge before stemming up to a giant ledge to sling a boulder. 55m. There is a nice block halfway you can sling on top edge of book above Friction Daddy if escape is needed with a single rope.
P2 starts on top of a boulder on the ledge with an awkward move, protected with a bolt into twin right leaning cracks. Up right for more gear then back left thru face to a ledge then up chicken heads to lunch ledge to the left of where Friction Daddy and Looking Glass end in the guide books. We slung a chock stone under a boulder just above the chicken heads for the anchor or you can move to the wall 20’ left to a set of anchors where Papa Pokey Bear comes up to this ledge before it moves belay. 35m
P3 starts just right of an arch on the back wall of the ledge moving up left on a traversing crack that runs out. Move up left on patina past 3x to cracks and easier climbing to another big ledge. Bolted anchor.
This ledge is the lower left portion of the ledge that Pokey’s last pitch starts from. This left portion of the ledge has two options to finish which are straight up past 2x to easy runout (which we did) 30m or up right on a scare/crack past 1x to a head wall with a crack that takes a #2 and is reminiscent move of the finish head wall of Tollhouse Traverse but on your right side. This second option I have always used as P4 for Looking Glass extension with P3 up the lieback flake up (where P3 of Pokey starts) and scrambling up left to the anchors. We thought about placing our own P4 but the two finishing options are both fun and we would have crowded it without adding anything of significance.
Ended up being a really fun route with a little of every kind of climbing with a few attention getters. Will be interesting to climb it without my huge 36v Bosch and gear which I used thinking my 12v Milwaukee had gone bad but found out later I just needed a new bit. LAME. Paul and I plan to repeat it at Lunesta Fiesta #6 if we don’t get up there before. I look forward to hearing some feed back.
To be honest I really feel blessed to be able to put up a route on such an awesome stone with Paulie that has so much history for climbing in the area.
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TFPU! Congrats! Nice way to say it, "To be honest I really feel blessed to be able to put up a route on such an awesome stone with Paulie that has so much history for climbing in the area. " And thanks for the detailed description. Though I'm a little uncertain how it goes, I trust it would make sense in person.
Nice to hear your efforts and consideration for not overcrowding... There really isn't much left on that dome, is there. Yeah, that wall looked pretty darn blank that you passed through last year. As you thought it worthy, I thought P1 definitely looked like it could use protection.
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Last year I started a little more left from the ground and 50’ to the hand crack had my attention. From the under flake I was able to find some pro and only needed one bolt which I was pumped about. The fact that it went mostly pro beside 5x for the 3 pitches we added was also a bonus.
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Paul's menu will consist of a pomegranate cider, an IPA, a Rye Lauger and Pilsner. Brewing will commence this weekend. Paul and I will ensure they are all drinkable prior to Lunesta.
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Hah ha - let us know if you need any help ensuring that ;) How fun!
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The taste testing has been going well. It will be enjoyed.
Menu:
Roggen Belay
Piton Pilsner
East Meets West IPA
Bomber #3 Cider (Pomegranate)
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hey Dave are you going to have t-shirts again, last years ones were cool!
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Yes. This year's shirt will be 50/50 blend in a blue color with the front having a big drawing of Fresno/Hawk Dome (I traced a picture because I suck as an artist) with 'Wamello' Curved over the top and 'Lunesta Fiesta' on the back shoulders with '6th Annual' canted below it. I haven't seen the proofs yet but I think it will turn out good.
I started to get excited for it with only just over two weeks away.
The white elephant/gift exchange will not be happening since only a few participated last year. I am sure we can find a way to fill in the time. Anyone have Bocce Ball to bring?
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Last year’s tee was really nice. Blue is even better.
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Hi all how was the party awesome I am hoping, looks like it was a bit smokey at Courtright as well, was climbing and camping at the Balls thurs-sun, Thursday was clear and blur sky's but the other days super smokey but no one around!!! Going to Courtright this Thursday - Sunday camping at site #49 if anyone is up there wants to stop by to have a beer and talk climbing :-)
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It was a fun time as always. More clear times than smokey. Friday eve, Saturday morn and then Sunday afternoon got a bit smokey but not too bad. One of the guys, Justin, that showed up had a legit telescope. Checked out a killer moon, Mars and Jupiter. You could actually see the rings and moons of Jupiter, Really cool. I later had him point it at some rocks during the day and wow! What a way to scout.
The area is so spread out, a lot of people went a lot of places. Paul and I ran up Little Nukey Friday morning then took some noobs to Punk Rock. Saturday a bunch of us went to Voyager and got on some fun, some tough, lines. They kept at it and I returned to prep the duck tacos which were a hit, as always. After the tacos I was planning to do an easy 4p thing on the left side of Penstemon but my partner decided against it so we took a group of 10 that went to the Upper Tier above Tiger Cage and climbed by moonlight until about 130am. Some people climbed Sunday in different spots and I know Swanson and friends took the kayaks to the island and climbed.
A lot of people camped with us on the big slab just before the Dusy trail-head parking lot but others camped further up the road. By my estimation there were probably 40+/- people that showed at some point. It was great to meet a lot of new and old friends. Mr. Courtright, Dwight Kroll, was there with Slick. I got to hang with John and Sue for a bit at camp which is always cool. I know they got on Swiss Cheese Wall at some point. About 18 of the 20 gallons of home-brew was consumed along with plenty of other drinkables.
The only downer was the fire ban (outside of an established camp ground) had just gone into affect earlier that week so we didn't have the camp fire to gather around.
Already looking at dates for next year.
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Well, I gotta say you really know how to fiesta Dave! Great job on the camp party! Wonderful to see you, Fred, Paul, and meet Dwight, Paul and others. I had never seen planets through a telescope before, so that was an extra treat viewing Saturn, Jupiter, Mars, the moon. The fire haze must have contributed to spectacular views watching the huge orange moon rise, and the first night Penstamon and other domes stood out in the thicker haze all the more in relief. Glad we got a couple t-shirts this year too, thanks so much!
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/pd east_resized.jpg)
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/swissparty_resized.jpg)
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/swiss descent_resized.jpg)
(http://www.southernyosemiteclimbing.com/SMF/photo_album_resized/swiss_resized.jpg)
note: these photos were positioned upright, so they should end up that way in a few...
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Cory and Wess climbing Hannoramic next to us. Wess was visiting from the east coast.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1780/43763281422_dbdf135143_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29FdfSS)IMG_0014 (https://flic.kr/p/29FdfSS) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
Paul and I on Little Nukey
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/939/42002964310_c2a0b8bb01_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/26ZEaVQ)DSC04292 (https://flic.kr/p/26ZEaVQ) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
Pano view from east side of Punk Rock with Mikey taking a pic of me taking a pic of him
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1795/43763281232_f84ba663f6_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29FdfPA)IMG_0026 (https://flic.kr/p/29FdfPA) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
Friday night festivities
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1836/43763281152_6830696af5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29FdfNd)IMG_0027 (https://flic.kr/p/29FdfNd) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1772/43763281562_607fb02331_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29FdfVh)IMG_0012 (https://flic.kr/p/29FdfVh) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1793/43763281632_d1d0a96e13_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29FdfWu)IMG_0011 (https://flic.kr/p/29FdfWu) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
Dwight on Spring Dome
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1776/28875626497_1ba2485b66_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KZD8Kg)Edmond (https://flic.kr/p/KZD8Kg) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
Voted onto the island with Swanson and friends
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/849/43763282602_a7407e9d96_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29Fdged)Island (https://flic.kr/p/29Fdged) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
Blue and the far right orange are what they climbed. The middle two orange are part of Donut's original solos
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/850/28875624087_69a80c6710_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KZD82H)Courtright Island (https://flic.kr/p/KZD82H) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
Overview of the Lunesta headquarters
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/857/28875627747_e688b77c09_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KZD97P)E4 (https://flic.kr/p/KZD97P) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
Sunday morning goodbyes of those not already out climbing
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/850/43763288022_7296f0ab64_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29FdhQE)E2 (https://flic.kr/p/29FdhQE) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
And here is a bonus pic of the Lunesta Fiesta 4p 5.7 @ Fresno Dome Paulie and I put up.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1777/42908284355_9a9d2e1de3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/28nEb38)LF4p (https://flic.kr/p/28nEb38) by Davey Tree (https://www.flickr.com/photos/158445240@N02/), on Flickr
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DaveyTree-
Can't see your images but really want to.
On Flikr, when you click the "Share Photo" arrow, a window will pop up and there will be three panels, "Share", "Embed", then " BBCode", copy and paste the BBCode
I edited the first image for you, so check it out as an example
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Yes liking the photo and want to see the others. So fun you climbed parallel to friends on power dome. We did that a month or so ago only none of us brought cameras but we all enjoyed that!
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How did anyone climb with the beer and whiskey just lying about like that? 8)
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Liquid Courage
Will have to work on it when back in front of a computer. Met Cory and Wess at the parking area. I had to save my lies because you never showed Munge.
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yeah, sent a pm when I realized I couldn't swing it. :-[
Hoffman is on the horizon tho! But its during duck season?
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Every year I tell myself I am going to climb some during duck season to keep strong. So far it has not happened. Hahaha. Keep me in the loop. I may make it happen this year.
And I will bring duck to cook.
***Finally figured out the picture thing. Thanks John.
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Awesome photos! Thanks for sharing those and the great topo of the new route. Good to see the Donut routes too!
Wonder if it was you guys at Spring Dome that Sunday morning of Lunesta Fiesta - All the way at Trapper, we heard jovial sounds of folks at Spring Dome before it got very sunny there.
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I didn't climb on Sunday. Edmond took the pic of Dwight with his drone from their sesh on Spring Dome.
There are so many options at Courtright. I consider it a great thing most of the time except for events like this. When it is at Fresno Dome, everyone seems to be more centered in one area for camping and you get to see and talk with more people during the day on approach, climbing, topping out and descent. Still deciding on next years location. There is also not a great moderate climb for monnlight scamper like at Fresno Dome.
May 18, 2019 is looking good for the next one. The only other full moon on a weekend is September 28 which will likely be fireless.
Fresno Dome, Shuteye, Balls, Chiquito, Squaw, .......decisions decisions.
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Long time since checking in.... hi all!
This thread totally gave me that spine chilling feeling of deja vu. That pic of Fresno Dome looks a lot like a spitting image (albeit cropped) of this one I took back in 2015! What are the chances???? Even the clouds are in the same location :-\
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/542/17707099013_b898952868_z_d.jpg)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/92566209@N00/17707099013/in/dateposted-public/
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DJ, I pulled it from a google search for the Topo. Best picture of the dome by far. I guess I should have said it wasn’t mine. Nice shot.
The picture gave me the gumption to explore to find where you took it from. Found the area but I don’t have a good camera.